NOS Stock Pursuit 2.4L
NOS Stock Pursuit 2.4L
I want to go with NOS as it is cheaper then turbo and electric SC is a waste of time
Question I have a Stock 2.4L Pursuit and want to know if you can go lower then a 50 shot if so what will gains be.
Also
Dry or WET
And what Brand would be safe
RPM Window Switch - what RPMs are safe range
WOT
a step or 2 colder plugs - what to get
Question I have a Stock 2.4L Pursuit and want to know if you can go lower then a 50 shot if so what will gains be.
Also
Dry or WET
And what Brand would be safe
RPM Window Switch - what RPMs are safe range
WOT
a step or 2 colder plugs - what to get
wet, WET, WET. dry and you're just asking to blow **** up.
any brand that's got a model for 4cyl EFI will do ya.
RPMs 3k -> just before your rev limiter (6k?)
WOT switch as well
and an arming switch
1-step colder (srt4) plugs will do fine
any brand that's got a model for 4cyl EFI will do ya.
RPMs 3k -> just before your rev limiter (6k?)
WOT switch as well
and an arming switch
1-step colder (srt4) plugs will do fine
I might consider 2 step colder just because of the stock CR, but again with out seeing your knock it's hard to say that you need them.
you could go with a 35 shot, but she'll take a 50 and 75 shot fine.
definitely want a wet kit single fogger. nx, nos, zex, nytrex, tnt, dynotune and a few others are all fine.
with your window switch, I would arm at 3200 and disarm about 200rpm before your engine's redline/rev limiter (I forget what the 2.4 stops at but I know it's higher than the 2.2). I'm running MSD 8969 with much success.
dont' cheap out on parts and don't rush your install and you'll be money
you could go with a 35 shot, but she'll take a 50 and 75 shot fine.
definitely want a wet kit single fogger. nx, nos, zex, nytrex, tnt, dynotune and a few others are all fine.
with your window switch, I would arm at 3200 and disarm about 200rpm before your engine's redline/rev limiter (I forget what the 2.4 stops at but I know it's higher than the 2.2). I'm running MSD 8969 with much success.
dont' cheap out on parts and don't rush your install and you'll be money
Originally Posted by g5mike
Did not know,never ran the stuff myself,I just meant as an reassurance
Originally Posted by slowion2
ok, I just thought you had reasoning behind it like durability or resistance to heat like the LSJ sodium filled valves. not trying to pick you out but that was kinda random lol
Originally Posted by g5mike
even if I was to run nos, I would srill have the lsj valves or JBP only cause both are more heat resistant than the 2.4 valves
it's not the n2o that raises the heat, it's the friction... you'd prolly actually do a better job with lightening the valvetrain with n2o
Originally Posted by slowion2
right, and that's a great idea, if they do in fact fit in there properly, but you don't need them, at least with a 75shot and under which is what the majority of people will run ever
with the right precautions, and based off what you're sig says as far as modifications, I'd venture to say a 75 or 50 shot would run great on your setup (again, with the right precautions).
if you havea 2.2 I would suggest upgrading the exhaust manifold to at least that of a 2.0 or 2.4 to help flow out a bit, and make more usable torque in the powerband.
if you havea 2.2 I would suggest upgrading the exhaust manifold to at least that of a 2.0 or 2.4 to help flow out a bit, and make more usable torque in the powerband.
Originally Posted by slowion2
with the right precautions, and based off what you're sig says as far as modifications, I'd venture to say a 75 or 50 shot would run great on your setup (again, with the right precautions).
if you havea 2.2 I would suggest upgrading the exhaust manifold to at least that of a 2.0 or 2.4 to help flow out a bit, and make more usable torque in the powerband.
if you havea 2.2 I would suggest upgrading the exhaust manifold to at least that of a 2.0 or 2.4 to help flow out a bit, and make more usable torque in the powerband.
Originally Posted by slowion2
are you milling the head as well any? are the valves stock or high comp/flat faced.
Originally Posted by slowion2
lol that's not answering my question but alright
you'll be fine either way, and I've heard good things about those cams in passing.
you'll be fine either way, and I've heard good things about those cams in passing.
anyone know how big a dry shot the stock 2.4 fuel pump and injectors are good
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
Originally Posted by ratboy
anyone know how big a dry shot the stock 2.4 fuel pump and injectors are good
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
Originally Posted by ratboy
anyone know how big a dry shot the stock 2.4 fuel pump and injectors are good
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
for? I've had great results on my LS1 Fbody with a dry shot, wet is too dependent
on bottle temp (pressure) for AFR and I'd rather just let the MAF report the extra flow.
Intake was never meant to flow fuel saturated mixture as well.....
Also with a wet shot if the fuel noid fails- BOOM.....
I've always ran with an arming switch, FPSS, WOT and window switches as well on an M6.
Thanks
Mark
Go to http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm to calculate the size injectors you'll need for your intended power level.
Originally Posted by g5mike
I would ask GTP on this one
a 50shot I'll go for it- one bottle and heater, good for 2 cars......
Mark


