So I want the car to be able to handle about 350hp. This is what I've come up with so far:

Cometic Headgasket
ARP headstuds
Upgraded Rods (company not decided yet)
10.0:1 pistons
Neutral Balance shafts
CompCams camshafts
Ferrea valve spring kit
Spec Stage 3+
Fidanza flywheel
All billet and poly mounts
Port and Polish head
UltraRev Driveshaft shop axles

Like I said this is what I've come up with and half this stuff is ordered already. I'm planning this build this coming spring. Can anyone think of anything else that is a necessity to this engine being built? any inputs will be appreciated

i would go with 10:0 pistons

they 10:5 will require meth or a higher octang from what i understood

also be sure to pick up hp tuers its helped me so much it isnt funny

hmmm, 93 won't work? I was looking at the 10:1 intense has, but I couldn't find any rods to go with them. I found the 10.5s on CED and they have rods that are made for them. I'll have to do some more research. thanks

also be sure to pick up hp tuers its helped me so much it isnt funny

Got it. I also have a wideband and plan on some gauges to monitor.

hmmm, 93 won't work? I was looking at the 10:1 intense has, but I couldn't find any rods to go with them. I found the 10.5s on CED and they have rods that are made for them. I'll have to do some more research. thanks

The rods would be the exact same. The point of high compression pistons is that they are larger in height than stock sized pistons (closer the top of the piston is to the bottom of the valves, the higher the compression).

As far as your build, if you're staying N/A aiming for 350...sorry but it's not going to happen on a build like this. So before I jump to conclusions, are you boosting? If so, what form?

The rods would be the exact same. The point of high compression pistons is that they are larger in height than stock sized pistons (closer the top of the piston is to the bottom of the valves, the higher the compression).

As far as your build, if you're staying N/A aiming for 350...sorry but it's not going to happen on a build like this. So before I jump to conclusions, are you boosting? If so, what form?

I understand the CR thing, but the pin size of the Intense pistons haven't matched any rods i've found yet. The stock rods have been proven over 300, but I don't want to take the chance and the engines only coming out once. I don't plan on hitting 350 with this, I plan on this being able to handle 350. I still haven't decided how to get there, twinscrew, twincharged,...something more than the stock M62. With an 8k red line I don't plan on any smaller than a 2.9" on the M62.

I understand the CR thing, but the pin size of the Intense pistons haven't matched any rods i've found yet. The stock rods have been proven over 300, but I don't want to take the chance and the engines only coming out once. I don't plan on hitting 350 with this, I plan on this being able to handle 350. I still haven't decided how to get there, twinscrew, twincharged,...something more than the stock M62. With an 8k red line I don't plan on any smaller than a 2.9" on the M62.

I totally didn't see that you had an SS/SC lol

Anyways, recognize the temperature of your combustion chamber and the chances of knock occuring with high compression. You're going to need to make sure you can keep rich more often, upgrade your aftercooling system and possibly look into adjusting your ignition timing as well. Colder plugs wouldn't hurt either.

Basically, as much as you're attempting to gain power from a higher compression, you're also going to need to monitor and prevent anything wrong from happening...mainly heat soaking which could get as bad to cause severe knocking (detonation).

If you go with that setup, you'll be over 400 whp. Rice Eater on the RL forums dynoed 425 with pretty much the same setup.

If you go with that setup, you'll be over 400 whp. Rice Eater on the RL forums dynoed 425 with pretty much the same setup.

With the M62? What size pulley and did he have an 8k redline? I wouln't expect that much HP from that little bit. I was thinking this plus the 2.9" would put me just over 300.

Anyways, recognize the temperature of your combustion chamber and the chances of knock occuring with high compression. You're going to need to make sure you can keep rich more often, upgrade your aftercooling system and possibly look into adjusting your ignition timing as well. Colder plugs wouldn't hurt either.

Basically, as much as you're attempting to gain power from a higher compression, you're also going to need to monitor and prevent anything wrong from happening...mainly heat soaking which could get as bad to cause severe knocking (detonation).

I planned on the GM dual pass cooler and a bigger heat exchanger. I wan't planning on a water/meth kit, but may think about adding that to my checkbook nightmare of a list. I was planning on a oil pressure gauge and not sure about the second...would you say IAT be the next best to monitor? Would adjustable timing gears be a good idea? I haven't been able to talk to my mechanic friend that's doing the build with me in a while, so i haven't asked him about these things yet.

I planned on the GM dual pass cooler and a bigger heat exchanger. I wan't planning on a water/meth kit, but may think about adding that to my checkbook nightmare of a list. I was planning on a oil pressure gauge and not sure about the second...would you say IAT be the next best to monitor? Would adjustable timing gears be a good idea? I haven't been able to talk to my mechanic friend that's doing the build with me in a while, so i haven't asked him about these things yet.

You don't have to adjust your cam timing via gears, if you're getting the s/c grind, you should be alright. If you still want to tweak on a dyno, just remember that you have to remove your valve cover everytime you want to change a degree of timing.

As far as the gauge, get the AeroForce gauge.

Also, if AeroForce doesn't show these, then get these:

1. Coolant Temperature (temp fo the coolant for your aftercooler)
2. Wideband

I'll try and think of some more important things to monitor. Oil Pressure isn't that necessary to really watch over in your setup...on a turbocharged system it would cause you're using the oil as a lubricant for the center section of the turbocharger and the pressure is important to know cause too much blow a oil seal or too little oil will cause improper lubrication and internal damage.

how much would all this stuff cost? just parts alone?

how much would all this stuff cost? just parts alone?

Just skimming, close to $4k (maybe a bit more depending some things)

yeah, it's costing a shitload. But lucky for me my income has been double for the past 4 months, so I've been saving.

id also look at getting a neutral balance shaft delete kit, :D just my 2 cents, itll take aboutn 9 lbs off the rotating assembly and keeps your water pump

4k, where are you guys getting these low numbers I spent 9k and only about 2k was due to fuuck ups

dont kid yourself add in 1-2000 for things that break as most of the stuff on this motor is fucking junk id take a 4g63 motor over my ecotec anyday. I even looked into swapping an extra one i have in.

I broke cam sprockets, bolts(torqued correctly) oil squirter was removed perfectly and tried to reinstall it and bam its stripped beyond repai and heilicoil doesnt make a kit, looked for a new banjo bolt to go to 10-1.25 instead on the 10.1 that it is.

You will run into problems with local shops and I live in a very race oriented area, Also look into some new sleeves to if you want to keep everything safe.

I would do what I did to pick up a little 7" LCD and mount it on your dash, connect it to yourlaptop and display the HPtuners info on it, best choice i made by far this entire build

Also becareful with your transmission, mine was not dropped kicked abused or anything done wrong with it and upon me restarting my car I have no 5th gear(I am looking into a Saab 6 speed tranny swap here soon

Thanks for all the inputs, it gives me more to think about and expect. I'm doing this build with a couple GM mechanics in a dealership shop. More importantly they are mechanics I trust.

id also look at getting a neutral balance shaft delete kit, :D just my 2 cents, itll take aboutn 9 lbs off the rotating assembly and keeps your water pump

Already planning on it, its on my list.

Your build looks pretty solid, but why is the 8k redline so desirable to you?

With the M62? What size pulley and did he have an 8k redline? I wouln't expect that much HP from that little bit. I was thinking this plus the 2.9" would put me just over 300.
From what I understand, he was running a 2.6" pulley, and reving to 7800. Oddly enough, thats what RPM he snapped his crank in half :lol:

From what I understand, he was running a 2.6" pulley, and reving to 7800. Oddly enough, thats what RPM he snapped his crank in half :lol:
really? i thought our cranks were good up to 500HP....

personally, i'd go with a ferra valve kit instead of the bates,...personal preference, but ferra kit somes with guides, springs, n everything else you need
SMG auto had their ecotec relining at 8k RPMs and i talked to him a lot about what he did, n heres what he said
I personally think two of the biggest things, if you plan to run 8,000 rpm RELIABLY,that you should change are the valve springs and the neutral balance shafts. I would recommend the Ferrea Valve springs, retainers, and the spring locators. That is what we sell and what we personally use in our race motors. The valve guides do not need to be changed. I would reccomend the Bates Balance shafts, we also sell those and use them in our race motors. Aside from that, I would not recommend changing the cam shafts untill you know whether you are going forced induction or not. You do not NEED them to run up to 8,000 rpm and would recommend forgoing them until later. Also, you do not NEED pistons to run 8,000 rpm either. However, i would recommend changing the rods. The factory rods are pretty dinky, and I personally dont know how long they will hold up to 8,000 rpm. We changed the rods and left the stock pistons in one of our race motors and had no problem with the rpm. The only other thing I would recommend to you would be adjustable cam gears. it will allow you some adjustablility to bring in some more power without a cam change and will allow you to shift the power band to work best with the higher RPM range.

Hopefully this helps. The products I mentioned are the ones i know for sure work and have been reliable, 1. because we use them in our motors, and 2. because we have sold the products and have history on them from other users. There may be some others that will work, but those are the ones we have experiences with. If you have any further questions, dont hessitate to call me at 774-573-0279. Most of all the products i mentioned you can see on my site aswell if you are curious. Hope this info help. Talk to you soon.

really? i thought our cranks were good up to 500HP....


I think it was a combination of RPM and Power that caused his Crank damage. The 500 HP # you're referring to is probably with a reasonable RPM rev and a considerable amount of power.

Already planning on it, its on my list.


acutally what u have stated is new neutral balance shafts, so in other words ur going with aftermarket ones, im talking about a delete kit

cuz my POV u looked at JBP site, world most expensive parts retailer

HunterKiller, I just read more into that statement. The guy he was talking about was producing 425 WHP or so. If you do an estimation of say even 12% drivetrain loss and then remember it takes power to make power with an supercharger, so he was more than likely producing about an overall 500 Crank Horsepower or something in that vacinity.

HunterKiller, I just read more into that statement. The guy he was talking about was producing 425 WHP or so. If you do an estimation of say even 12% drivetrain loss and then remember it takes power to make power with an supercharger, so he was more than likely producing about an overall 500 Crank Horsepower or something in that vacinity.
that makes sense i suppose...i was thinking that the 425 figure given was already at the crank...so i guess its all good then...at any rate, assuming your bhp will remain below 450, i think you'd be fine with the stock crank

as far as the balance shafts go...heres the pair i was looking at about a month ago
http://www.smgmotoring.com/products/5/4

Blackyk:

i want the 8k because...well wtf not

Sunfirejoe:

yeah JBP is expensive as hell, I don't plan on buying from them. Whats the diff between a neutral balance and a balance delete? I haven't seen a delete kit. With the neutral balance it's just R&R.

Huntkiller:

I'm thinkin Bates because they are cheaper and plenty good for the power I want. Bates is what GM went with in their 600hp build. I've never heard of SMG, do you have a link?

player_1 had his Bates springs give out on him and he has since switched to Ferrea and had to replace a valve or two. Bates "supposedly" fixed the problem but do you want to take the chance?
As far as the driveshafts go, it was mentioned yesterday (I also checked) the UltraRev has the same shafts for $80. less than Intense.

Sunfirejoe:

yeah JBP is expensive as hell, I don't plan on buying from them. Whats the diff between a neutral balance and a balance delete? I haven't seen a delete kit. With the neutral balance it's just R&R.

Huntkiller:

I'm thinkin Bates because they are cheaper and plenty good for the power I want. Bates is what GM went with in their 600hp build. I've never heard of SMG, do you have a link?
neutral balance shafts are severely reduced in weight and wont have any problems with the water pump that are sometimes associated with balance shaft deletes....however the delete will have even less weight (and in turn more vibrations)

theres a link in my previous post to SMG for the balance shafts, but they also sell the ferrea valve kits too

thanks, that's not a bad price for that ferrea kit. I'm changing my list. Are those 2.2 neutral balance shafts the same for the 2.0?

player_1 had his Bates springs give out on him and he has since switched to Ferrea and had to replace a valve or two. Bates "supposedly" fixed the problem but do you want to take the chance?
As far as the driveshafts go, it was mentioned yesterday (I also checked) the UltraRev has the same shafts for $80. less than Intense.

Yeah, I know someone else with a bad experience with Bates as well. I want to say Halfcent but don't hold me to that. I hate that GM recommends them in the GM book cause everyone looks to go to them.

thanks, that's not a bad price for that ferrea kit. I'm changing my list. Are those 2.2 neutral balance shafts the same for the 2.0?
im not positive but i think so...you can send em an email about it...they had a few hour turnaround for a response when i was talkin to em....

The crank is good for 600 WITH neutral balance shafts. Without them, I wouldn't trust is past 375-400.

So I want the car to be able to handle about 350hp and a 8k red line. This is what I've come up with so far:

Cometic Headgasket
ARP headstuds
ECOTEC Billet Rods
ECOTEC Billet 10.5:1 pistons
Neutral Balance shafts
CompCams custom grind
Ferrea valve spring kit
Spec Stage 3+
Fidanza flywheel
All billet and poly mounts
Port and Polish head
UltraRev Driveshaft shop axles

Like I said this is what I've come up with and half this stuff is ordered already. I'm planning this build this coming spring. Can anyone think of anything else that is a necessity to this engine being built? any inputs will be appreciated
You should still make sure that the suspension and structure of the vehicle where the mounts and everything bolt to can handle it.

I have seen Mustangs where the person puts in another 100 or so horsepower and the rear axle/differential rip the trailing arm mounts right out of the body of the car.

You should still make sure that the suspension and structure of the vehicle where the mounts and everything bolt to can handle it.

I have seen Mustangs where the person puts in another 100 or so horsepower and the rear axle/differential rip the trailing arm mounts right out of the body of the car.


Definately plan on susp. as well. right now I have sportlines and plan on getting the sway bar set and tokico's gas shocks this summer when they come out. It sounds like you're not talkin about the handle portion, but more of strength and I don't know what really would need to be upgraded.

I talked to my mechanic friend that's doing the build with me today and he said the same thing that you guys have said about the pistons, so that idea is changing to 10.0:1. He also said that GM has a new performance part book coming out this Jan and he thinks it will have more cobalt/ecotec stuff in it.

HEY ALL, I just wanted to say thanks for all the inputs and help so far. I've changed from 10.5:1 to 10.0:1 pistons, Bates to Ferrea valve spring kit, same axles for $80 cheaper from UltraRev and discovered SMGmotoring.com. If any of you are going to be around OKC, hit me up and we can grab a beer on you.

Sounds like you have a good plan for you build. Good luck with it and keep us posted. Oh, and on the grabbing a beer, you should be the one buying the beer cheapo! :lol:

agreed on the susp upgrades...bdwarr broke his engine mounts after he "finished" his build...lol

I plan on getting all the billet mounts from ZZP and I have the susp package from intense. I was jokin on the beer, it's on me, but after this build it's going to have to be PBR.

Good luck

I like the idea of this setup...but I think your stock M62 will throw a fit @ 8k. Personally, I think new cams, valve springs and retainers kit, and upgraded pistons and rods will be the only necessary upgrades for 350+ hp. The rest is in a very conservative, professional, and tweaked tune. Save your money on unnecessary upgrades. Give respect to the already perfect engine that GM has given you and try your hardest to leave as much stock as possible. Tuning decides reliability--> Not overly expensive components. I'd try using a GT28RS turbo setup...which could be had for around $2.5k, if you find those good hole in the wall shops that can offer parts for little or nothing. That would actually be right at $4k I think, after buying the kit and the pistons, rods, and valvetrain parts. Boost right at 15psi..and your set. Use HPTuners. 350whp...low 12 sec Balt...whatever you want to call it. Done.

With a 3" pulley at 8k for a sec, should be fine. I think it's about 17.5k rpms. I don't want to "waist" money on stuff I don't need, but on the other hand, I don't want to be pushing the limits of stuff and take the chance of anything going out on me and I only plan on taking the engine out once. I plan on keeping it s/c only for a bit and see what i dyno and if I feel i need more power then i'll look into the twincharge setup. thanks for your inputs.

I had no intention of flaming you for the original idea's you've had. But personally, I think pistons and rods will do for 400hp--reliably. However, if you raise the rev limit that much, I also feel like valvetrain could do you some good, too. Best of luck.

I had no intention of flaming you for the original idea's you've had. But personally, I think pistons and rods will do for 400hp--reliably. However, if you raise the rev limit that much, I also feel like valvetrain could do you some good, too. Best of luck.

That's why I'm getting the Ferrea valve kit

With an 8k red line I don't plan on any smaller than a 2.9" on the M62.


man i wish everyone would stop trying to rev the shit out of these engines and focus on making more power in a reasonable limit. once i crank the boost up to 27-28 psi the rev limiter is going right back down to 6500rpm or maybe lower. high compression and high boost on crazy rpm levels isn't the smartest thing to do unless you have alot of extra money sitting around and an extra car to drive while this one is awaiting engine repairs 10 out of 12 months each year.

i'm sure after a dozen people start throwing rods and getting spun bearings they'll take a step back and realize just because the engine is capable of revving high, doesn't mean it's ok to do it to a daily driver.

man i wish everyone would stop trying to rev the shit out of these engines and focus on making more power in a reasonable limit. once i crank the boost up to 27-28 psi the rev limiter is going right back down to 6500rpm or maybe lower. high compression and high boost on crazy rpm levels isn't the smartest thing to do unless you have alot of extra money sitting around and an extra car to drive while this one is awaiting engine repairs 10 out of 12 months each year.

i'm sure after a dozen people start throwing rods and getting spun bearings they'll take a step back and realize just because the engine is capable of revving high, doesn't mean it's ok to do it to a daily driver.

I agree.

I mean, you can make PLENTY of power with a 6500 RPM redline. If you know what you're doing and with forced induction, it's not necessary. Sure, you can gain power but it's just more stress with faster rotation speeds, more heat generating and more to worry about breaking.

but i mean, it's his car though. This is just my opinion.

thats why im goign with a 2.4L block set-up, im gonna make more power down low, so i dont have to worry about high rpms, its where things can go lean with just bad calculation way to easy, and plus why do we need you the motor revolute 8000 times in one minute think about how your cylinders and oil, and heat start to act, i jsut gringe, mna some of the motors i work on make 1800 hp at 900 rpm
yep i said 900 rpms and 1800 hp

thats why im goign with a 2.4L block set-up, im gonna make more power down low, so i dont have to worry about high rpms, its where things can go lean with just bad calculation way to easy, and plus why do we need you the motor revolute 8000 times in one minute think about how your cylinders and oil, and heat start to act, i jsut gringe, mna some of the motors i work on make 1800 hp at 900 rpm
yep i said 900 rpms and 1800 hp

We've discussed this before:

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1048

well i wonder if a 2.4 crank would fit a 2.0L block, hmmm something i might have to look into, but i dont think they have a forged crank

well i wonder if a 2.4 crank would fit a 2.0L block, hmmm something i might have to look into, but i dont think they have a forged crank

I knew you were gonna ask that...talked about as well. Read the whole thread and you'll see why:

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1267

so me wanting to get a larger liter displacement really looks diffictult at this point in time, dropping in a forged l61 really isnt gonna do much, but also there is balancing for a reason, to get rid of those odd lifts


so whats the deck height of a 2.4 le5 and a 2.0 LSJ and a 2.2 l61, cuz really, there no real difference in the bottom, other than cranks and pistons and rods is there,

so me wanting to get a larger liter displacement really looks diffictult at this point in time, dropping in a forged l61 really isnt gonna do much, but also there is balancing for a reason, to get rid of those odd lifts


so whats the deck height of a 2.4 le5 and a 2.0 LSJ and a 2.2 l61, cuz really, there no real difference in the bottom, other than cranks and pistons and rods is there,

Honestly, I don't know this answer.

I see you're joining the forum (hehe) so just post this question in the Hybrid forum.

yah man i wanna sorta pioneer something, i knwo ppl are way more knowleged than i am, but im sure i can throw in some bacon and shake things up, cuz i really truly think more torque will come out of my motor with more displacement

posted over there i can stop whoring this thread now

ok

(fyi, check your pm box on there)

yah man i wanna sorta pioneer something, i knwo ppl are way more knowleged than i am, but im sure i can throw in some bacon and shake things up, cuz i really truly think more torque will come out of my motor with more displacement

posted over there i can stop whoring this thread now


why pioneer anything when we all know the 2.2 liter is capable of well over 1000hp. just do a swap and do your build from the gm book. i can tell you i've totally wasted well over 5000 "pioneering" a blower swap and wish i never tried that crap. i could've spent that money on this new turbo motor and had one hell of a beast.

i'm sure after a dozen people start throwing rods and getting spun bearings they'll take a step back and realize just because the engine is capable of revving high, doesn't mean it's ok to do it to a daily driver.

Well, that's why I'm upgrading the rods and just because I set the rev limiter at 8k, doesn't mean I plan on hitting every time I race someone. This is exactly why I made this post. I want people that have experimented with this stuff to give me inputs. Thanks

I want people that have experimented with this stuff to give me inputs. Thanks


well considering my family has owned race track for over 20 years i can assure you that i have seen more $30,000+ motors blown because of revving too high, than because of all other reasons combined. the only one close to that reason would be because a lubrication system failure, ie: oil pump, blow out too much oil from the can, etc... and some of those lubrication failures were due to the drivers running too high rpm levels and the engine not lubricating itself properly

i believe alot of people are seeing the 9000rpm turbo engine on the land speed cobalt, but what they don't realize is that car might be able to make (3-4max) 7 mile passes and the motor is trashed. and this is with a totally built motor, not just one with a new valvetrain on.

Would Bates Oil Pump Gears take care of the lubrication issue at higher RPMs?

Yeah, the dude should just turbo or upgrade the supercharger and start adding boost until either he get's to his satisfactory limit OR 'til he blows a piston ring or snaps a rod. If he's going to build the motor from ground up anyways..why doesn't he just see what the stock block can do. It would be helpful to others with this car, and certainly couldn't hurt the engine builder any, since he could save money if the motor holds up.

If he wants 8K+ RPM on the street AND reliably, he shouldn't have bought a Chevy. He should've bought a Honda or maybe a Toyota (not sure about those though). With that being said people..the car could easily hold up to much more power than GM "claims" it can do. I mean c'mon. There are many, many Honda blocks that originally had 150 or less HP that are now running 400+ and even up to 600hp in that same stock block. The same can be said about Toyota, the SRT-4 is even puttin out 400+ on stock blocks. It's al in the tune I believe. I really think it will take alot less parts and alot more tuning for the SS/SC to put out like people are wanting it to.

Yeah, the dude should just turbo or upgrade the supercharger and start adding boost until either he get's to his satisfactory limit OR 'til he blows a piston ring or snaps a rod. If he's going to build the motor from ground up anyways..why doesn't he just see what the stock block can do. It would be helpful to others with this car, and certainly couldn't hurt the engine builder any, since he could save money if the motor holds up.

Why in the hell would I just try to break shit so other people would know how much it can handle. Don't post stupid shit, there's no need for that, c'mon. I started this thread to hear from ppl that have done this stuff to their car and the 8k red line isn't set in stone. From the sounds of it, I should keep it at 7

Yeah, the dude should just turbo or upgrade the supercharger and start adding boost until either he get's to his satisfactory limit OR 'til he blows a piston ring or snaps a rod. If he's going to build the motor from ground up anyways..why doesn't he just see what the stock block can do. It would be helpful to others with this car, and certainly couldn't hurt the engine builder any, since he could save money if the motor holds up.

If he wants 8K+ RPM on the street AND reliably, he shouldn't have bought a Chevy. He should've bought a Honda or maybe a Toyota (not sure about those though). With that being said people..the car could easily hold up to much more power than GM "claims" it can do. I mean c'mon. There are many, many Honda blocks that originally had 150 or less HP that are now running 400+ and even up to 600hp in that same stock block. The same can be said about Toyota, the SRT-4 is even puttin out 400+ on stock blocks. It's al in the tune I believe. I really think it will take alot less parts and alot more tuning for the SS/SC to put out like people are wanting it to.

Stock block is one thing but are they running on the stock internals as far as Pistons, Piston Rings, Rods and Crankshaft? If so, for how long are they lasting?

As far as the SRT-4s, stock, they come with Mahle Forged Pistons and high quality connecting rods, this is why they can handle this much power from the factory.

Everything else, I agree with.

I can confirm the completely stock Honda's for sure. Granted, the ones upward of 500+hp don't last too long, perhaps half a season at most..but 300whp turbo Honda's on stock blocks are very, very common and quite reliable. Might I add these blocks aren't low compression either, usually 10.1+...they've just used a good tune like Hondata or AEM EMS.

As for the threadstarter..I never wanted you to think it's a stupid post at all, and I'm sorry you have to think that. But the fact is that stock is flat out better than all the thousands of dollars you spend on parts trying to make the motor do something it's not designed to do. That's what race inspired engine builders do. They make cars do things they were not designed to do...and every time the motor comes out victorious because the engine usually doesn't last much more than a few races, and in top fuel racing...no more than a single pass. So don't sit here and tell me how ignorant or uneducated I am because I'm suggesting you see what the stock block can do before going to town on it. I'm willing to vouch for the GM engineers before I vouch for $4k+ of RACING parts put into a street car.

Nevermind that I ever said anything..just tryin to help you from a different direction.

For future reference NJHK, when I refer to the word "stock", typically I mean "as is from factory".

that is a sick build dude you should have some good numbers to show us...how much does all that cost and stuff?

I can confirm the completely stock Honda's for sure. Granted, the ones upward of 500+hp don't last too long, perhaps half a season at most..but 300whp turbo Honda's on stock blocks are very, very common and quite reliable. Might I add these blocks aren't low compression either, usually 10.1+...they've just used a good tune like Hondata or AEM EMS.

As for the threadstarter..I never wanted you to think it's a stupid post at all, and I'm sorry you have to think that. But the fact is that stock is flat out better than all the thousands of dollars you spend on parts trying to make the motor do something it's not designed to do. That's what race inspired engine builders do. They make cars do things they were not designed to do...and every time the motor comes out victorious because the engine usually doesn't last much more than a few races, and in top fuel racing...no more than a single pass. So don't sit here and tell me how ignorant or uneducated I am because I'm suggesting you see what the stock block can do before going to town on it. I'm willing to vouch for the GM engineers before I vouch for $4k+ of RACING parts put into a street car.

Nevermind that I ever said anything..just tryin to help you from a different direction.

I feel sorry for their engines...I wouldn't attempt anything that high.

that is a sick build dude you should have some good numbers to show us...how much does all that cost and stuff?

Bdwarr already has 7k into his. I don't have that much into it yet, but I only have half my parts ordered.

FUELEDPASSION: I do appreciate all your inputs and do understand that making more power does cost and can be dangerous. I do trust GM engineers very much. Someone build a cobalt on striclty gm parts and put down over 500hp.

No harm done...just disagreement between us..but I was basing my idea's on a 350hp, 8k rev-limit LSJ. I personally don't think the LSJ needs much to meet those requirements. Actually, I think 7K is plenty for 350hp. Again, just my opinion. Good luck to your build.

No harm done...just disagreement between us..but I was basing my idea's on a 350hp, 8k rev-limit LSJ. I personally don't think the LSJ needs much to meet those requirements. Actually, I think 7K is plenty for 350hp. Again, just my opinion. Good luck to your build.


woot woot.... 364 @7000 right now. and we finally have a turbo guy coming to tune my car tomorrow :guns: revs are coming down and the boost is going up :bow: if he feels comfortable with it, we might go ahead and crank the boost to 28psi :D hopefully the engine will hold together with the new pistons, so far on the dyno this car has blown twice lol.

hly fuck any final words on your dyno

I feel sorry for their engines...I wouldn't attempt anything that high.


Well, when you already have a turbo kit, tuning accessories, etc. and you've already got the pistons, rods, and new bearings for your turbo build...but already have the turbo on the OEM motor..naturally Honda tuners will up the boost in excess of 12psi and make 400+hp. Some last months if not years...others last days if not weeks. It really depends upon the condition of the motor when you start putting real boost to it. Such as compression test results, bearing conditions, clearances, and of course the tuning, and whether or not it's a safe tune.

Theoretically, an LSJ w/ about 30,000 miles on it would be ideal to test to it's limits in order for other owners to get an idea of it's boundaries, at least for now while the R&D is still relatively limited. You see my point was to push it to it's limits while it is stock..given the fact that your already planning to rebuild the motor regardless.