I changed the oil in my 06 SS/SC Stage 2 (not the filter this time, just the oil) last weekend and for whatever reason, the car is REALLY sluggish. Of course, I used the correct Mobil 1 full synthetic that meets the GM(4-digit #) standard, refilled completely full but not over-filled, etc etc etc... then let the car idle for a good 5-10 minutes in the driveway and it ran just fine. Nothing odd and no 'hiccups' or anything. But as soon as I left to drive back to my house, the first thing I noticed is that the car is very sluggish now.

When I say sluggish, I mean that I now have to use 1/2 throttle to achieve 1/4 throttle acceleration. I now have to hit approx. 3-4psi of boost to achieve exactly 0psi acceleration. My oil level is still 100% full, so I know the engine probably isn't being starved of oil, and the car idles and revs beautifully like I said. Normal engine operating temperature is still perfect as well (178-185 degrees F). No CEL either.

I've tried resetting the ECM (don't know why that would matter, but it was worth a shot anyway). I've tried using gas (premium, of course) from at least 4 different stations (Shell, BP, Marathon, Speedway, etc. all 92/93 octane). I've even tried giving the car a good WOT tromping in 2nd gear just to see if high load/high RPM would clear it up. Nothing has worked yet.



Think I need to redo the oil again?
Think I need to use injector cleaner or something?
Think I need to check the ignition system (ex: spark plugs)?
Think I fucked up the oil change somehow and now I'm losing compression?!
Could it be something much simpler, like a clogged air filter?

Any advice would be wonderful. Thanks in advance!

 

Any kind of Check engine light on? You might have knocked a sensor or vacum line lose. Just a oil change should not cause the problem you are describing.

 

No CEL. I'll give the sensors and vac lines in the immediate are a look-see.

 

What is CEL! Nobody will answer that question...

 

CEL = Check Engine Light

 

1. After you let the car sit for a little bit and check the oil, where on the dipstick is the level? Is it at all above the max line?

2. The Mobil 1 was for sure 5W30?

3. Take hose off of PCV orifice on throttle body and look for oil.

 

LOL thankyou!

 

Why didnt you change the filter? Who changes oil, and not the filter??????

 

thats what i was thinking

 

No filter this time because I know the dealership I bought the car from changed the filter as well as oil the day I bought it but I didn't trust that they would use the correct Mobil 1 GM Standard oil the owner's manual demands. So I did the oil alone just to have some peace of mind that the car had the correct oil. The filter's not completely ready to be changed yet.

1. EXACTLY at the FULL line, maybe the slightest hair below if you really wanna split hairs.

2. Correct, Mobil 1 5w30

3. I'll do that tomorrow, good suggestion. What does it mean if there is oil there? Excessive blow-by?

 

Well, just be aware that according to the owner's manual you are supposed to change your oil a few thousand miles after you buy the car because there will be a higher amount of debris in it than normal because it's a new engine and you're wearing it in. They seat the rings themselves at the factory, but you are still breaking it in right now. If I were you I would change the filter just because it's cheap and you might as well.

Do you have an intake or are you completely stock?

 

took me forever to find out also

 

How about MIL? Did you know that one?

 

No what??

 

I should have specified that I bought the car used with 12,000 miles on it already, so the "break-in" should have been complete (by a LONG SHOT ) So yea, I didn't get the car new.The only mods I have are the GM Stage 2, and GM Touring Cat-Back. NO aftermarket intake. Totally stock intake, never changed air filter, but I did clean the living **** out of it last winter. Good suggestion though, I am definitely gonna take a look at my air filter tomorrow and replace it if I can't clean it 100%.

 

Malfunction indication light. haha, there are alot of acronyms out there.

Oh okay, for some reason I thought it was new. So when you gave it full throttle in second how much boost did you achieve?

 

Hard question actually... I remember passing the 15psi mark in 2nd... could have gone higher but I took my eyes off the Boost Gague to see if I was close to Reline. Hopefully 15+psi (???)

 

Hmm....I guess just check the other stuff first and let us know what you find.

 

I guess that's what I'm reduced to. I am still under warranty so if worst comes to worst...

 

Bah
This is simply NOT TRUE
(Please post the page number of the owner's manual where you THINK you seen this)
There's no requirement to change your oil sooner that the EOL index indicates
The "official" break-in process reads as follows:
To the original poster, providing your engine oil is at the correct level your "seat of the pants" assessment of a change in performance is likely unrelated to the physical replacement of the oil. About the only thing I've ever seen as a potential issue (other than knocking off the BARO sensor connector when replacing the oil filter, resulting in a MIL/DTC) is IF you had major oil spillage,(perhaps due to an "accident" during refilling or possibly the dipstick "pop")- getting excessive oil on the belt/SC pulley which will result in slippage and potentially create an observed lack of power.

HTH
WopOnTour

 

Nevermind. I got my car used and it didn't come with a manual. I have just read that several times on this site. Either way I still said the correct thing that they break it in before you get it. Was it completely necessary to use all of the caps? I respect what you say, but you don't need to come at me like that.

Edit: I have read it alot on this site, and I believe quite a few people said there dealer told them to do that. I had never heard of it, nor did I have to do it since my car was used. Besides, you're telling me if you bought a car that had sat in the lot for 8 months or so that you would go by your EOL indicator? I highly doubt that. That's probably where it stems from though is people's dealers telling them to change there oil soon since it has been sitting for a while and there is something in the manual about that.

The engine must have it's oil changed at least once a year. Just explaining why I THOUGHT that. I was incorrect.

Yeah. I know how you feel man. My car only has 9,000 miles on it and there's gas in the oil. Even though I'm a tech myself I just wanted to use my warranty to save some money. I took it there and the tech said he did not smell gas in the oil and that he couldn't reproduce the tick on cold startup. One of my friends who works there verified the problems and said he would take the RO next time. The service manager is really nice too, so that's good. I just wish it didn't have to be difficult like that.

Good luck

 

Not "coming at" you at all, but perhaps before you state something is IN the owners manual- you should verify first. I'm not saying doing your 1st oil change early isn't a good idea, I do it myself- but it's not something GM demands or even officially recommends in the Balt's maintenance schedule.
Wop

 

You're right.

 

Well, no loose wires, no unattached vacuum lines, the A/C compressor clutch is not stuck engaged....

... I'm lost.

 

Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes to reset the pcm and then drive it like you stole it for about 20 min and see if the pcm just needed a relearn .
Give it a try see what happens.