Ok since I've been getting A LOT of PMs asking for updates on my build, I decided to make a thread so I can update when stuff with my build happens. Well, I'm pulling the motor this weekend. The big thing that happened today was I got the pistons squared away. CP Pistons will be providing the pistons. The pistons are forged (duh), 9.5:1 compression, dual coated (teflon sides/ceramic top coating). They will have valve reliefs to acomidate (sp!?) my cam setup. CP said the pistons should handle upto 850 hp, so I ain't worried about those bad boys wussin out like the stocker :lol: They said the pistons should be at my door in 4 weeks, I'M SO EXCITED!!!!! :nuts:

cant wait man thats going to be sick

$0.00

Sponsorship FTMFW!!! :twothumbs :D

CP said they would be like $700-$750 with the coating.

$0.00

Sponsorship FTMFW!!! :twothumbs :D

CP said they would be like $700-$750 with the coating.




how do you go about getting sponsored

how do you go about getting sponsored

Well, with me, its through some connections with my dads company. Labor will cost me nothing, since I work at an engine building shop I have access to all the machines I would ever need.

alright thanks good luck with the build

Awesome dood, keep us posted!

dam dude thats good news, what is teh difference between forged pistons and regulars? sorry big time noob question

They are forged they just have coatings on the sides and top, helps with longevity and makes them slide better!

dam dude thats good news, what is teh difference between forged pistons and regulars? sorry big time noob question

Well, cast (stock) pistons pours molten aluminum into a mold, the mold is opened revieling a piston. Weak, prone to crack/break under high stress. If they get too hot, they crack. Cheap to make though.
Forged pistons are made by heating the aluminum solid cylinder to about 800*F, then uses a huge press with like 20 tons of force to press a form into the cylinder forming the shape of the piston. This is a far better process, makes a much stonger piston, and when it gets too hot, it melts, saving internal parts from flying chunks of piston. However it is more expensive to make.

theres also a negativ ehtough....forged pistons are also heavier than cast iron pistons, and thus are not as well suited to high revving, but most tuners find this a very easy sacrifice to make, as few people like making power by revving to 12kRPMs....besides hondas of course

how do you go about getting sponsored

It's easy to get sponsored when your dad runs at Car TV show and a Magazine :-P Cameron get's lots of favors and freebies!

did they give u a part number........ once I get to this point in time I would like to order some high quality internals. Have you found any sources for rods yet?

theres also a negativ ehtough....forged pistons are also heavier than cast iron pistons, and thus are not as well suited to high revving, but most tuners find this a very easy sacrifice to make, as few people like making power by revving to 12kRPMs....besides hondas of course

Not Cast Iron, Cast Aluminum.

Not Cast Iron, Cast Aluminum.

X2^^^

No new updates so far. The freakin guy from COMP who was doin my cams went on vaction until the june 13th :cussing:

The guy from Ferrea is basically wating for cam specs so he can send off the valvetrain.

Pistons are still being made, they have about 3 weeks to go.

you shud put a turbonator en et :D:D:D


But seriously, can't wait to see the outcome of this build. Good luck!

This will be an awesome build. Why not the 10:1 compression pistons? Is the 9.5:1 better for a higher HP setups?

Another noobish question, what about the diamond head pistons, I was told that they were better than forged.

92mm pistons @ 8.0:1 compression.
EVO stage cam (the same profile)
Ti valve train
port the head
neutral balance shafts
get the cometic head gasket
of course, get a good performance crank and rods.....that'll leave more than a few cars in the dust

how do you go about getting sponsored

since hes being given everything daddy wants and skipped the real answer, ive looked into it ill tell you. you have to go to shows already and win several of them on your own or at least place well. you have to show that you can get from show to show and let people see the car and their parts on it. you dont even get much of a discount at the lower levels. something like 10% of tires once a year when i looked into nitto. and you have to put a banner going across the top of the windshield.

This will be an awesome build. Why not the 10:1 compression pistons? Is the 9.5:1 better for a higher HP setups?

Another noobish question, what about the diamond head pistons, I was told that they were better than forged.

Diamond is a brand of piston. You don't actually make the pistons out of diamond.

Diamond is a brand of piston. You don't actually make the pistons out of diamond.


It is new Bling Bling for your motor. The block should be cast out of 24k gold too.:lol:

Ahh good blown. You can come over and help me install my SRP's when they come in. :lol:

This will be an awesome build. Why not the 10:1 compression pistons? Is the 9.5:1 better for a higher HP setups?

Another noobish question, what about the diamond head pistons, I was told that they were better than forged.

10:1 is a horrible compression ratio for this motor with the Eaton blower. There is so much tendency for knock, UNLESS you use a 2.8" super charger pulley for the street, and then a 2.5-2.6" for the track.

The 10:1 will make more power than the 9.5:1 at the track, but will have to be so detunes for the street that the 9.5:1 will be faster on pump gas.

We had the Banana maxed out at ~430bhp on the Aeroforce scan guage with the 10:1 pistons and 109 Octane. On pump gas it reads 280bhp, which is worse than it was on the 9.5:1 ratio.

Seems like you finally got la bananna runnin :lol: We will have to race when mine is done, the banana on race gas, and mine on pump :twothumbs

Diamond is a brand of piston. You don't actually make the pistons out of diamond.

Woah.... -Rep on myself for my noobishness. :thumbsdow

10:1 is a horrible compression ratio for this motor with the Eaton blower. There is so much tendency for knock, UNLESS you use a 2.8" super charger pulley for the street, and then a 2.5-2.6" for the track.

So, what compression ratio be better for compression that would run well with an y FI product (turbo, twinscrew, roots, etc)?

Here's a question for all you folks saying you're going with a Ti Valvetrain:

What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?

Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.

Higher compression pistons WILL net you more hp/tq, however your car wont like it much, and neither will the pistons.

If you can TUNE the higher compression pistons, and not have a worry in the world that they will break (or break something else...like your block) then you can do it.


However, lower compression pistons arnt necesarily better, but ALOT safer, and it allows you to shove more air into your motor.


Turbos, you can up the boost with a push of a button (boost controller) so lower comp. pistons would be best.

Superchargers, if you can find the right comp. pistons for the amount of boost your pushin, thatd be key. (alot of Trial & Error...and money)


but I look forward to seeing your updates.

(and my explanation was directed towards scythe snake)

Here's a question for all you folks saying you're going with a Ti Valvetrain:

What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?

Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.

In my case FULL Ti valvetrain means, Ti valves, and Ti retainers. The springs are still made out of steel. The only cars that use Ti valvesprings are like top fuel cars<-- John from Ferrea told me that.

So are you using the supertechperformance +1 mm valves, then?

Nope. Ferrea all the way for me. +1 mm titanium valves, dual valve springs good for 9000+ rpm, and titanium retainers to match.

Nope. Ferrea all the way for me. +1 mm titanium valves, dual valve springs good for 9000+ rpm, and titanium retainers to match.

Unless you're using a different PCM, there isn't a point in going past 8400 rpm's. Honestly, if you're using titanium valves, dual valve springs will be overkill and just adding the weight you were trying to remove back.

I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.

Unless you're using a different PCM, there isn't a point in going past 8400 rpm's. Honestly, if you're using titanium valves, dual valve springs will be overkill and just adding the weight you were trying to remove back.

I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.

I doubt Cameron was intending on going up to 9000 rpms. A good 8000 rpm racer would be nice.


Yeah we got La Bannana running. I was trying to explain to gilbert how he couldn't run the 2.6" with the pump gas, and spent 2 days trying to tune it that way anyways. On the race gas
(109) it says something like 430hp on the interceptor, but I still don't like the way his setup feels. Still can't wait to take it to the dyno to see how much HP it really does make.

Unless you're using a different PCM, there isn't a point in going past 8400 rpm's. Honestly, if you're using titanium valves, dual valve springs will be overkill and just adding the weight you were trying to remove back.

I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.

You use titanium valves to REDUCE weight from the valvetrain, because they are lighter than stainless steal valves. Get your facts straight. Dual valve springs are only a few grams heavier than standard valve spring, but since they don't move (they do compress, but remain stationary), they don't add weight to the moving valvetrain.

You use titanium valves to REDUCE weight from the valvetrain, because they are lighter than stainless steal valves. Get your facts straight. Dual valve springs are only a few grams heavier than standard valve spring, but since they don't move (they do compress, but remain stationary), they don't add weight to the moving valvetrain.

Also the dual valve springs will make it that much more reliable (safe).

Also the dual valve springs will make it that much more reliable (safe).

X2^^^ and thats one of the main reasons I'm getting them.

First off, I have my facts straight, you just mis-interpretted what I was saying. Second off, using a heavy rated spring adds to internal friction, no matter what. The weight of the spring itself does have less of an effect on the valvetrain than the valve itself, but it still is weight that needs to be moved. I'm not suggesting that you should go with the stock springs, just that a upgraded single spring would be able to handle more than you think seeing as it will have lighter valves to deal with in the first place.

First off, I have my facts straight, you just mis-interpretted what I was saying. Second off, using a heavy rated spring adds to internal friction, no matter what. The weight of the spring itself does have less of an effect on the valvetrain than the valve itself, but it still is weight that needs to be moved. I'm not suggesting that you should go with the stock springs, just that a upgraded single spring would be able to handle more than you think seeing as it will have lighter valves to deal with in the first place.

Well, I'm one to "over build". For instance, I will only have around 400 whp on race gas, so I'm building my motor to handle over 700. Same goes for my valve springs, I only plan to rev to 8100, so valve springs good for 9500 with do just fine :D

Hey blown have you consider cams already or no i have not read the whole thread but are you or no

Waiting to hear back from my friend about prices on the GM cam blanks. I'm ordering them, then sending them off to comp to get custom insanly ground.

Basically, he wants to have enough whp for the street, but also be able to make tons without blowing the motor again if he wants to.

Basically, he wants to have enough whp for the street, but also be able to make tons without blowing the motor again if he wants to.

GMPP themselves told me that they recommend having custom cylinder liners installed above 400 horses, or buying their race prepped block. I'm not against anything he's doing, and I tend to overkill the vast majority of my own projects. I've just decided my goals for my own build aren't quite what his are, and I've been focusing more on reducing friction than anything else, so I just thought he'd appreciate some verying opinions.

I think the race Ecotecs are bored like .32 over or something like that. I'm not to sure.

GMPP themselves told me that they recommend having custom cylinder liners installed above 400 horses, or buying their race prepped block. I'm not against anything he's doing, and I tend to overkill the vast majority of my own projects. I've just decided my goals for my own build aren't quite what his are, and I've been focusing more on reducing friction than anything else, so I just thought he'd appreciate some verying opinions.

When GM tested the limits of the 2.2L ecotec, blowing many many motors in the process, they got to the point at which they had modified pretty much everything needed to make over 700 hp. Then the STOCK sleeves failed... at 740 hp.

When GM tested the limits of the 2.2L ecotec, blowing many many motors in the process, they got to the point at which they had modified pretty much everything needed to make over 700 hp. Then the STOCK sleeves failed... at 740 hp.

I've read the background and build book as many times as most. I'm just passing on what they told me when I was trying to get the info for installing the copper headgasket and o-ring kit.

from what I"ve read the stock sleeves should hold just fine, hopefully they do since I really didn't budget that work in at the moment.

Did you read this? Read toward the bottom where the sleeves failed, and thats on the 2002 2.2L, I'm sure the 2.0L sleeves are a little more beefy.

http://www.year2032.com/ecotec.htm

EDIT* However the stock Ecotec block and main/girdle structure did survive to 750 hp, as did the stock sleeves.

I'm not dis-agreeing, I'm not putting new sleeves in either. Just passing on the info, as I said. BTW, I still haven't received the damn machining directions from those folks, either.

Edit:

What's up Paul? You ready to buy a trans? lol. Got the car on the road yet? What ever happened to that evo? Maybe you better PM me back, hehe.

Last I saw of Pauls build, he had a turbo big enough to suck a person in :lol:

Hope the build goes well!! And make sure you post up some pictures when you start getting some goodies in!

Last I saw of Pauls build, he had a turbo big enough to suck a person in :lol:

I think hes since switched to a gt28 or gt30 though iirc. I'm also curious as to his build as well as yours. :)

subscribed for updates

switching to a gt3076, should hopefully at least have the turbo in the car in the next 2 weeks or so. Selling the T-76, Evo turned out to be more of a project than I wanted (kid blew center diff along with motor that week) and I have pretty much everything I need for the next motor. Trans I might need to grab off you depending if mine holds out at the track saturday, But car's still been on the road, everything is good with it for now. Sending the cams out next week (my other head was in "limbo" since january, finally got it back this weekend and no work was ever done to it) But I"m off for 6 days starting friday, so I'll hopefully have most of the motor together and ready to go and a turbo manifold fabbed up, might even slap in a t3 super 60 I got laying around just so I can start on the tuning.

switching to a gt3076, should hopefully at least have the turbo in the car in the next 2 weeks or so. Selling the T-76, Evo turned out to be more of a project than I wanted (kid blew center diff along with motor that week) and I have pretty much everything I need for the next motor. Trans I might need to grab off you depending if mine holds out at the track saturday, But car's still been on the road, everything is good with it for now. Sending the cams out next week (my other head was in "limbo" since january, finally got it back this weekend and no work was ever done to it) But I"m off for 6 days starting friday, so I'll hopefully have most of the motor together and ready to go and a turbo manifold fabbed up, might even slap in a t3 super 60 I got laying around just so I can start on the tuning.

Please keep us updated. :twothumbs

will do, been busy with work lately, so things were on hold, but about to get cookin on stuff real soon

will do, been busy with work lately, so things were on hold, but about to get cookin on stuff real soon

I know the feeling. I got a little flu (insert fake cough) this week to get caught up on a few things. I still need to take my own car to the track and dyno and also trying to tune 2 GTO buddies of mine, finish Dan's turbo redline tuning, and start on ppazz1101's turbo 2.4 all by the end of the week. Busy stuff now that the weather is nice. :guns:

I call BS on the O.P.

there's no proof of your mods or your job. Personally think i think you're full of shit. :D

wtf?

wtf?

look at him! there's no way an 18 year old kid can get a sponsorship... he's not even going to race it for money! :P

his dad works for some car thing or something.... That would be why.

look at him! there's no way an 18 year old kid can get a sponsorship... he's not even going to race it for money! :P

Well he lives in AZ too so go over to his house and find out for yourself! ;)

look at him! there's no way an 18 year old kid can get a sponsorship... he's not even going to race it for money! :P

I think you're joking, but if you ain't.

His dad owns a car magazine and a hotrod tv show. He works at a shop that starts with a B, I think, he keeps telling me the name, but I keep forgeting. I was there when the rotating assembly was pulled out of his car, and I've been helping him in his search for the parts that will hold up to the amount of power he is going to make.

Just cause you don't have connections, does not mean that he doesn't. Hell I'm 21 and I am starting to work my way into a connection with GMPP.:cool:

C'mon bro.

Austin (BlurpleSS, even though its PURPLE) is just being a dick :lol:
He's just jealous ;)

Austin (BlurpleSS, even though its PURPLE) is just being a dick :lol:
He's just jealous ;)

Yeah, we all know Cameron tells the truth, even if you don't WANT to believe it. Blurple and Blown hang out, and Most of us in AZ are friends. He was just trying to start shit, because people are so prone to call BS when they don't believe something even if they don't have any debunking evidence.

Okay, I coulda swore that's what he was doing. Sarcasm is just a little bit hard to do with typing. The smilies shoulda been my clue.

I set an example that you bitches better recognize!!! thanks for all your support motherfuckers!

I can tell you that Cameron ports like a bitch. I had to take over for him. haha

I can tell you that Cameron ports like a bitch. I had to take over for him. haha

Ownt! hahaha!!!:guns: :guns: :guns:

I can tell you that Cameron ports like a bitch. I had to take over for him. haha

Bull Fuckin Shit! You couldn't port a head if you life depended on!

so how's the progress cameron?

UPDATE US!!! AND GET BACK ON CIAZ NOOB!

Cameron, so did them pistons come in yet?

Bull Fuckin Shit! You couldn't port a head if you life depended on!

I already have, and an exhaust mani, a turbo, and your blower, and your mom. :lol:

You didn't port my blower

So how about those pictures of the build oh master sir!?

So how about those pictures of the build oh master sir!?

Trust me, the day I get my pistons, pics of those things will be here within minutes :lol:

So he didnt port your blower but he did port your mom:nono:

No, of course he didn't! If he did, she wouldn't feed him hamburgers anymore :lol:

Cameron, how's the progress? anything new?

:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111!!!1!11one one!!one1!

Today, I recieved a package in the mail. Hmmm, wonder what it could be!?!?
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/CPPistonsBox.jpg

Lets see whats inside!!!
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/Contents.jpg

4 brand new, forged pistons! 9.5:1 compression, ceramic coating on top (tan color), and teflon coating on the sides! Theses Mo-Fo's are good for 800+ hp :nuts:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/Coatings.jpg

Since I'm doing extremely radical cams, with A LOT of lift, overlap, and duration, I had them include nice large valve reliefs.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/ValveReliefs.jpg

These pistons have awesome oil holes for better lubrication and cooling, it also has oil holes in the pin bores!
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/Side.jpg

Just correcting one of the mistakes made by GM :D
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/Internals/BeforeandAfter.jpg

They are custom pistons made by CP Pistons.
http://www.cppistons.com/

price?

Sponsored, so $0.00

lol, k also quick word of advice the part number most ppl are passing around for the main studs is incorrect ;), i dont know if arp actually makes a proper kit for us

Damn, well if I have to, I guess I could just buy stock, torque to yield main bolts as a last resort.

they are torque to yield ehh, its what im looking for online right now, no where does it state it, but im pretty positive they are, they should be good for 500 ish im thinking

Nice Cam, so whats next on the list to Arrive?

Dam Cam, those things are badass!!! i want a set now

those pistons are beautiful

You have white fingers

You have white fingers

hahaha. that was random.
so ill give you :twothumbs up for making me laugh today

You have white fingers

Thanks... I guess?

Thanks... I guess?

That was racist.

He needs to be introduced to Mr. Sun

That was racist.

Are you drunk? Startin a little early aren't ya?

Are you drunk? Startin a little early aren't ya?

I just like messing with you lol

I love white fingers, baby.

I love white baby fingers.

Fixed post.

Daddy loves white baby fingers.Fixed post.

Further fixed post.

cool looking pistons cameron. I have no clue what any of the shit you said means, or how good the pistons actually are, but if they'll help you achieve your goals, that's what's cool.

How do you not understand "These Mo-Fo's are good for 800+ hp"? :confused:
Austin, I knew you were slow, but not THAT slow! :lol: jk

haha, that's the only thing i understood!

Ok, well the ceramic coating, helps the pistons take the heat from combustion. The teflon coating on the sides helps the pistons slide on the cylinder better. The oil holes, allow the oil sprayed up from the squirters to escape to the side of the piston between the cylinder and piston, to help lubricate it, and cool it better.

ah, that makes sense. thanks for explaining. :)

Man it must be awesome to be sponsored. You sir, are a lucky man.

They are probably stronger since you are saying they can handle 800 horse but they look exactly the same as diamonds pistons.

Well, most pistons look the same. After all, they all do the same thing.

Those pictures look so much better than the ones you sent me on my phone. Those are some damn sexy pistons. If only the bore for the wrist pin was larger...

Those pictures look so much better than the ones you sent me on my phone. Those are some damn sexy pistons. If only the bore for the wrist pin was larger...

Why!?!? There is no need, GM used a 23mm wrist pin up to like 800hp!

Why!?!? There is no need, GM used a 23mm wrist pin up to like 800hp!

I meant for my own purpose. ;)

:barf:

lol...

any more updates?

GM cam blanks should be here in 7-10 days.

Cam,

Do you have a garage and air tools? If so you're helping me install my ZZP header/DP. :lol:

No he doesn't. He's got a carport with a mess of hand tools...by mess I mean literally a disorganized mess.

No he doesn't. He's got a carport with a mess of hand tools...by mess I mean literally a disorganized mess.

I've seen it.

No he doesn't. He's got a carport with a mess of hand tools...by mess I mean literally a disorganized mess.

Aww, its not too bad. *cough haha cough*

i havne't seen it in a while, but that little closet in his car-port was full of disorganized tools... it looks like a junk yard in there!

It may LOOK disorganized, but I know where to find everything and I know how to work on these car. Shit, I've pretty much done everything you can :lol:

dude, it looks like Osama had a 4th plane directed at your storage closet!


*gasp!*


...............................too soon?

So Blown 4, I know you do not like the stock pistons in the 2.0(understatement) , but what power were you making when they dismembered. (sorry if this is covered in another thread!)

at least around the 300 range.

So Blown 4, I know you do not like the stock pistons in the 2.0(understatement) , but what power were you making when they dismembered. (sorry if this is covered in another thread!)

Well, considering I pretty much walked away from a 298 whp SRT-4, I'd say at least 310ish whp.

It may LOOK disorganized, but I know where to find everything and I know how to work on these car. Shit, I've pretty much done everything you can :lol:



Thats true...all the times i have been to ur house..he can walk in that room and instantly come out with the right wrench lol...it's almost scary:lol:

what was your interceptor showing? LOLOL :lol::lol:

Thats true...all the times i have been to ur house..he can walk in that room and instantly come out with the right wrench lol...it's almost scary:lol:

Hey Jason! what's up dude?! it's been a while!

what was your interceptor showing? LOLOL :lol::lol:



Hey Jason! what's up dude?! it's been a while!

The most I saw on my interceptor was like 365 hp.

I don't go by guess numbers... I was making 296 (maybe a little less at race time) and walked away from a 315whp srt and a 335whp one too..... our gearing is much better (long ass gears and high ass redline lol)

I have not seen it in this post yet but what were your mods when the engine let loose?

I ask because I'm under going my rebuild right now :)

2.6" Pulley, 60's, dual pass, cobra HE, trans mounts, motor mounts, intake, pacesetter headers, full 3" exhaust catless... and a custom tune for race gas 109 octane (though it was a mild race gas tune)

2.6" Pulley, 60's, dual pass, cobra HE, trans mounts, motor mounts, intake, pacesetter headers, full 3" exhaust catless... and a custom tune for race gas 101 octane (though it was a mild race gas tune)

Fixed it for ya. I was only runnin 19-20 degrees of timing on that tune. I was also running 11.4-11.8 AFR which is richer than when I really had it tuned up, which was 25.5 degrees of timing and 11.9-12.2 AFR, that shit was retarded fast on that setup.

and just plain retarded for a supercharged car... hence why you blew it up. tune it for 11.5 tops.

11.8 is just fine, as long as it below 12 its fine. Specially with less boost, and cooler air. Plus pistons that will laugh at the puny amount of power I'll be putting out.

Nice. My mods below reflect the current rebuild, the motor is being resleeved currently. I got a few guys doing custom turbos near me and depending on the numbers I might give that a go next summer.

What are your plans for the motor?

what was your interceptor showing? LOLOL :lol::lol:



Hey Jason! what's up dude?! it's been a while!

Not much dude. Just workin a bunch and school. Goin to see korn and U-Fest bra!! gonna be sick! Are you n steveo goin??

Well, I got the GM cam blanks finally. To my pleasant suprize, they are GM 2.2L L61 cam blanks :cussing: WTF!?!?! I PAID $150 FOR CAMS I CAN'T EVEN FUCKING USE!!!!!!!!!! IT SAYS RIGHT ON CRATE ENGINE DEPOTS WEBSITE: "For use in 2.0 and 2.2 Ecotec engines only" :cussing: FUCKING LIERS!!!!!

Those mother fuckers!

Cut some throats!

Damn that sucks dude sorry to hear that, make them give you a discount on that shiot when they send you the new ones!

Not much dude. Just workin a bunch and school. Goin to see korn and U-Fest bra!! gonna be sick! Are you n steveo goin??

no dude, korn sucks. :)

We can't afford concerts anyway. That show had some good bands... but i didn't want to hear some accoustic bull shit from korn and amy lee... but evanescence would have been cool to see.

If you find a part that is actually a set of 2.0L LSJ cam blanks, please let us all know where. I haven't found anyone who is actually selling them.

Yeah, its looking more and more like I'll have to just do a stock regrind.

On a lighter note, the Driveshaft shop, just agreed to sponsor axles for my car :nuts:

Cam,

Do any shops around here do dyno tuning for our cars? I was gonna go with steve but he won't up my limiter to 7500 so i need another option and would actually prefer a dyno tune.

Cam,

Do any shops around here do dyno tuning for our cars? I was gonna go with steve but he won't up my limiter to 7500 so i need another option and would actually prefer a dyno tune.

Good for Steve. He's keeping you from fucking up your motor. #1 Your motor will be doing nothing but screaming at 7500 rpm. #2 Stock valve springs are rated to like 7150-7200 rpm, but it lowers as you continuously rev the piss out of it. #3 I reved my car 7000-7100 rpm, and when I opened the motor there were tell tail signs that I was floating the valves, and that was at only 7000-7100 rpm. Get new valve springs, THEN rev the shit out of it, but before that, its not safe to rev that high, nor is there a reason to rev that high without aftermarket cams.

+1 for a good for steve!

7500 rpm is just wrong! Take a deep breathe and have steve tune you. he does good work.

Oh, well since this is MY update thread, I might as well update! Today, BOTH The Driveshaft Shop, AND Crane cams agreed to sponsor parts/services. Driveshaft shop is sponsoring a set of axles, and Crane cams is sponsoring a regrind of my stock cams!

^^ Sweet...I want you to sponser me!! ;) What about your rods? Read were they failed @ 268 HP or so in the article earlier in this thread. Are the LSJ rods different? What HP are they good to?

L61 rods failed at 287 hp. LSJ rods are A LOT more beefy. They say they're good to like 400-450 hp, but I ain't takin a chance.

What do you tell people they get for sponsoring you? I'm just wondering as there is a local race shop I would like to sponsor and maybe they could help me out as well.

Oh and I never did get an answer about what your plans for the motor were?

Look at my Vb garage, I'm sick of telling people my plans 5 times a day.

Good for Steve. He's keeping you from fucking up your motor. #1 Your motor will be doing nothing but screaming at 7500 rpm. #2 Stock valve springs are rated to like 7150-7200 rpm, but it lowers as you continuously rev the piss out of it. #3 I reved my car 7000-7100 rpm, and when I opened the motor there were tell tail signs that I was floating the valves, and that was at only 7000-7100 rpm. Get new valve springs, THEN rev the shit out of it, but before that, its not safe to rev that high, nor is there a reason to rev that high without aftermarket cams.

I never said anything about stock valvesprings. :lol: As for not making any power over 7000rpm. I'm back on the stock pulley and going to 7500 will increase boost and should produce max hp at redline.

I never said anything about stock valvesprings. :lol: As for not making any power over 7000rpm. I'm back on the stock pulley and going to 7500 will increase boost and should produce max hp at redline.

Na, cam profile won't support power up that high. Have you seen the stock cam profile!?!? Its pathetic! More mild than the L61 cams!!! 189 duration @ .050, ~.380 lift, 113 LSA. Simply pathetic.

i have not met one person here in AZ who had a 7500rpm rev limiter and DIDN'T blow his motor... good luck!

Doesn't Gilbert rev into the mid 7000s?

Doesn't Gilbert rev into the mid 7000s?

sry, no one on stock internals :D

OoO gotcha. Yeah, stock motor + 7200+ rpm = toast

+1 for a good for steve!

7500 rpm is just wrong! Take a deep breathe and have steve tune you. he does good work.

I've tuned a 7500rpm car.......he just doesn't have one. He will need cams to make power up that high, and then he will also need new valve springs, porting, and new lighter valves. If he had that we could be talking a different story, but I was trying to think with my head.

I think he thinks because some other people set their rev limiter to 7400-7500 to account for the timing pull that he can rev that high. I told him we can just add timing to compensate for the loss, but I don't know why that didn't make sense to him.

Even if he said he would never shift above 7200 I still wouldn't tune it that way, because with the tach delay and powershifting he would be up around 7800+ rpms. That's risking instant failure.

Doesn't Gilbert rev into the mid 7000s?

NOW he does, but before he blew the motor TWICE!

Alright. You guys win. I bow down to your information. :lol: I'll just put the money towards a ported head instead.

Cam.. Who's doing your cam regrinds? I wonder if we would benefit from just a hotter exhaust cam.

I hope you have pistons planned too...

I hope you have pistons planned too...

What for? I'm staying with stock boost

All i plan on doing....

Airbox mod
LT header
no cat
3" catback
42lbers
Tuning

Done. If someone ever produce's a nice TS swap i'm in.

Alright. You guys win. I bow down to your information. :lol: I'll just put the money towards a ported head instead.

Cam.. Who's doing your cam regrinds? I wonder if we would benefit from just a hotter exhaust cam.

Crane cams is doin my shit.

Steve what are you talking about when you say it pulls timing? When does it pull timing? I had my limiter set to 7200 and I would shift 7000-7100 and my car would never pull any timing.

Only option for LSJ is cam regrinds. Blanks do not exist, I thought everyone knew about this.

AFAIK, you can techincally use 2.2 cams, but you won't be able to use our cam position sensor. All that sensor is used for is getting the motor started on first crank. I run my car without the sensor, it just takes about 5-10 crank to start, depending where you turned the car off at.

Pretty much everyone modded LSJ around here runs a 7400 limiter and takes it there everytime. So far no one has nuked their motor, and it has been over a year. LSJ starts to float at 7400ish.

Alright. You guys win. I bow down to your information. :lol: I'll just put the money towards a ported head instead.

Cam.. Who's doing your cam regrinds? I wonder if we would benefit from just a hotter exhaust cam.


I know where you can get a ported head with the reground cam, and upgraded valves and springs.

I know where you can get a ported head with the reground cam, and upgraded valves and springs.

Could i just get the head steve? I'm going to stay with the 7000rpm limit. How much?

Only option for LSJ is cam regrinds. Blanks do not exist, I thought everyone knew about this.

AFAIK, you can techincally use 2.2 cams, but you won't be able to use our cam position sensor. All that sensor is used for is getting the motor started on first crank. I run my car without the sensor, it just takes about 5-10 crank to start, depending where you turned the car off at.

Pretty much everyone modded LSJ around here runs a 7400 limiter and takes it there everytime. So far no one has nuked their motor, and it has been over a year. LSJ starts to float at 7400ish.

i'm pretty sure that is' been proven that they float at 7200...

Only option for LSJ is cam regrinds. Blanks do not exist, I thought everyone knew about this.

AFAIK, you can techincally use 2.2 cams, but you won't be able to use our cam position sensor. All that sensor is used for is getting the motor started on first crank. I run my car without the sensor, it just takes about 5-10 crank to start, depending where you turned the car off at.

Pretty much everyone modded LSJ around here runs a 7400 limiter and takes it there everytime. So far no one has nuked their motor, and it has been over a year. LSJ starts to float at 7400ish.

Is that true!?!? I thought it was used for like ignition or something. I should disable my cam sensor so my car has to crank over a few times, before it starts. I always notice super bad ass cars take a bit to start up :lol:

Only option for LSJ is cam regrinds. Blanks do not exist, I thought everyone knew about this.......

Thats interesting seeing as my cams started of as blank billets.

Thats interesting seeing as my cams started of as blank billets.

Not everyone has unlimited money for custom everything though.

Thats interesting seeing as my cams started of as blank billets.

What I meant was from GM basically. Not everyone has infinite money to toss around into an econ box.

Not everyone has unlimited money for custom everything though.

GM SELLS BLANKS. e1 else knew. guess you didnt.
JBP gives you the option. send in your cams for pay for a blank.

Only option for LSJ is cam regrinds. Blanks do not exist, I thought everyone knew about this.

AFAIK, you can techincally use 2.2 cams, but you won't be able to use our cam position sensor. All that sensor is used for is getting the motor started on first crank. I run my car without the sensor, it just takes about 5-10 crank to start, depending where you turned the car off at.

Pretty much everyone modded LSJ around here runs a 7400 limiter and takes it there everytime. So far no one has nuked their motor, and it has been over a year. LSJ starts to float at 7400ish.

Man you guys are nuts. striving for more more you abuse the motor when you could go faster just by taking advantage of our torque down low. when I run a 1/4 I dont shift passed 6200 rpm's. I would run out 3rd gear though. now with more bolt ons I wll use fourth.

I used to run every gear to almost 7gs but found not as much success shifting earlier. Used dyno sheets and annalyzed difference in engine rpm between gears to come up with a plan and shift points. worked for me. 13.9 with stage 2. only other faster GMS2 I have seen is 13.8

If GM sells them then why don't they offer them to the public. Also, it has been proven to not trust JBP, lol.

Where does it state on their site that you can send them yours and get blanks in return? You sure you just don't mean the core charge when you buy their "Tri-Flows"? I could be totally looking past it on their website.

Man you guys are nuts. striving for more more you abuse the motor when you could go faster just by taking advantage of our torque down low. when I run a 1/4 I dont shift passed 6200 rpm's. I would run out 3rd gear though. now with more bolt ons I wll use fourth.

With my 3" Exhaust and Lightweight Flywheel, my car has no low end anymore. I have netrual balance shafts and cams waiting for the car though. Just need head work and valve springs. Plus I will be going Turbo myself once the motor is finished.

Best I could get out of mine at the track was 13.4@109. That was with shifting @ 7100ish and before the engine works, clutch, and mounts. I need to get back on the dyno and see what the power looks like.

GM SELLS BLANKS. e1 else knew. guess you didnt.
JBP gives you the option. send in your cams for pay for a blank.



Man you guys are nuts. striving for more more you abuse the motor when you could go faster just by taking advantage of our torque down low. when I run a 1/4 I dont shift passed 6200 rpm's. I would run out 3rd gear though. now with more bolt ons I wll use fourth.

I used to run every gear to almost 7gs but found not as much success shifting earlier. Used dyno sheets and annalyzed difference in engine rpm between gears to come up with a plan and shift points. worked for me. 13.9 with stage 2. only other faster GMS2 I have seen is 13.8

What the hell are you talking about!?!? Read a couple pages back. I BOUGHT THE BLANKS! They are for the L61, the exhaust cam is shorter and doesn't accomidate the cam sensor in the LSJ head.

GM SELLS BLANKS. e1 else knew. guess you didnt.
JBP gives you the option. send in your cams for pay for a blank......

Wes these guys apparently know everything and we don't know a damn thing, lets leave them to their superior intellect.

I am not calling you guys wrong. I am just saying in our search, we came up blank. GMMP even told us they won't give out any information for LSJ blanks, or anything about their Comp grind in the build book.

If you know how to go about getting LSJ cam blanks for GM, please let us know. If JBP is the only magical way... well then I personally won't trust them, but that is just me.

People still buy shit from JBP? :lol: Do you like getting ripped off?

^^^ Exactly my point, JBP is out of the question. I don't see how they are the only ones that can produce these blanks.

What for? I'm staying with stock boost

All i plan on doing....

Airbox mod
LT header
no cat
3" catback
42lbers
Tuning

Done. If someone ever produce's a nice TS swap i'm in.
Tag was suposed to, but I guess they gave up and handed it over to Mase who used to work for them. The confusing part is what happened to the money that people gave Tag as a deposite. I'm not even sure Tag was heading in the right direction with thier design.

Crane cams is doin my shit.

Steve what are you talking about when you say it pulls timing? When does it pull timing? I had my limiter set to 7200 and I would shift 7000-7100 and my car would never pull any timing.

Your car wont pull any timing unless it is the GM tunes. Running like 20+ degrees of timing on pump gas is redick. Oh I know. Also Just because your timing is advanced doesnt mean you are making any power only early detonation, right Cam haha.

What the hell are you talking about!?!? Read a couple pages back. I BOUGHT THE BLANKS! They are for the L61, the exhaust cam is shorter and doesn't accomidate the cam sensor in the LSJ head.

Fuck the cam sensor, just disable it. haha.

Trust me, no cam sensor will get very annoying after a couple months.

People still buy shit from JBP? :lol: Do you like getting ripped off?

They do charge alot for some stuff. there header for instance is a work of art. I thought of getting it but soon realized for the more power I obtain for price for 5 hp was not worth it to me.

^^^ Exactly my point, JBP is out of the question. I don't see how they are the only ones that can produce these blanks.

THey dont produce blanks. they get them from GM for the LSJ. you get to keep your old cams.

I am not calling you guys wrong. I am just saying in our search, we came up blank. GMMP even told us they won't give out any information for LSJ blanks, or anything about their Comp grind in the build book.

If you know how to go about getting LSJ cam blanks for GM, please let us know. If JBP is the only magical way... well then I personally won't trust them, but that is just me.

JBP gets the part as easily as you can. If you cant trust them then go else where.


************************************************** ******
From LSJ build book: "The factory camshafts have been replaced
with performance cams from Comp Cams. The
intake cam needs to go in the engine first.
The Comp intake cam has the following
specs: 0.441 inch net lift with 218 degree
valve duration at 0.050 inch lift on 109
degree lobe separation.""The Comp exhaust cam specs are 0.437-inch
net lift with 220-degree valve duration at
0.050-inch lift on 109-degree lobe separation."

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer-Tech/ECOtec-LSJ-Build-Book/ECOTEC_2.0L_LSJ_Chap_6.pdf

See page 113 and 114
************************************************** *******

GM PART # 88958611
GM PART # 88958612

found at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?perfPackages=1&pkgid=92
************************************************** ***********

cam spec sheet from gm
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/PDFS/ECS.pdf

more cam blanks and performance cams from gm
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Camshafts-C141.aspx
************************************************** ****************

What are the stock cam specs again? I think going to just a hotter exhaust cam profile would be better then going with brand new cams. Our intake cam provide's us with decent low end power so a hotter exhaust cam will just give us a better defined top end.

They do charge alot for some stuff. there header for instance is a work of art. I thought of getting it but soon realized for the more power I obtain for price for 5 hp was not worth it to me.



THey dont produce blanks. they get them from GM for the LSJ. you get to keep your old cams.



JBP gets the part as easily as you can. If you cant trust them then go else where.


************************************************** ******
From LSJ build book: "The factory camshafts have been replaced
with performance cams from Comp Cams. The
intake cam needs to go in the engine first.
The Comp intake cam has the following
specs: 0.441 inch net lift with 218 degree
valve duration at 0.050 inch lift on 109
degree lobe separation.""The Comp exhaust cam specs are 0.437-inch
net lift with 220-degree valve duration at
0.050-inch lift on 109-degree lobe separation."

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer-Tech/ECOtec-LSJ-Build-Book/ECOTEC_2.0L_LSJ_Chap_6.pdf

See page 113 and 114
************************************************** *******

GM PART # 88958611
GM PART # 88958612

found at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?perfPackages=1&pkgid=92
************************************************** ***********

cam spec sheet from gm
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/PDFS/ECS.pdf

more cam blanks and performance cams from gm
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Camshafts-C141.aspx
************************************************** ****************

Those are L61 cam blanks bro. I bought them and had them IN HAND. I returned them and just decided to regrind the stockers.

So no one has yet showed us where to get GM LSJ cam blanks.

So no one has yet showed us where to get GM LSJ cam blanks.

Supposedly a guy from the parts department of the dealer I got my blanks from, found a "secret" part number for LSJ blanks, and ordered them. Hopefully they are the real things.

Those are L61 cam blanks bro. I bought them and had them IN HAND. I returned them and just decided to regrind the stockers.

THey are blanks? and L61 cams are interchangble with LSJ so I did not understand what would be the problem? your getting them ground. They are on the website for the LSJ I thought.

In the build book they describe going to comp cams for performance cams.
Maybe ask Comp Cams or Crate Engine Depot.

Heres the info. I provided on a spec sheet. I did not realize at the time that the cam sensor would not work. but they do physically fit. So it made sense to me if they fit you could grind to what ever timing you want.

)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

�� The 2006MY L61 cams can interchange with LSJ cams, both intake and exhaust. These cams are
the exact same profile, only at different timings. The 2006MY L61 timings are 116 intake, -103
exhaust. The LSJ timings are 100 intake, -115 exhaust.
�� The LNF and LE5 exhaust cams could interchange. The LNF and LE5 cams are not interchangeable
in any other way or with any other ECOtec cams.

Valve springs are the same across all variants, and should be upgraded for high-rpm operation or
increased lift.
The GM Performance Parts ECOtec cam set (88958648 set or 88958636/7 individually) is an aggressive
race cam. They are not stock-replacement cams; they require upgraded valve springs and retainers.
These cams were designed for a race motor, using the ‘06 L61 as the starting point. The cams will not fit
the 2.4L LE5 head and will not work with the stock ECM or lifters. They physically fit the 2.0L LSJ head,
but the vacuum pump / cam sensor will not work in a stock engine.

)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) ))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

SO the question is from Comp Cams or JBP or any other producer of performance cams, do they have the timing sensors in the cams? and if not how does it work with out it?

THey are blanks? and L61 cams are interchangble with LSJ so what would be the problem? your getting them ground. I am not sure what the problem is here. they are on the website for the LSJ.

Maybe ask engine crate depot.

The camshaft position sensor doesn't work with the L61 cams. The car would still start but it will take more cranks due to the PCM not knowing the position of the cams during ignition.

The camshaft position sensor doesn't work with the L61 cams. The car would still start but it will take more cranks due to the PCM not knowing the position of the cams during ignition.

Exactly, and my cars driveablility will be out the window with the cams, and I don't need an extra thing to make it a pain in the ass.

Actually, WOP said something on RLFs about an oil valley that prevents us from using the L61 cams. And we verified this when doing cam swaps on our LSJs. You would need to somehow block that valley where our cam sensor would be IIRC.

Actually, WOP said something on RLFs about an oil valley that prevents us from using the L61 cams. And we verified this when doing cam swaps on our LSJs. You would need to somehow block that valley where our cam sensor would be IIRC.


according to cam spec sheet that they are interchangeable though?

according to cam spec sheet that they are interchangeable though?

Well aparently thats wrong :rolleyes:

according to cam spec sheet that they are interchangeable though?

Physically they can be if you plug an oil supply near the LSJ cam sensor. However, as the spec sheet mentions, it will not work with the stock engine management system.

I think the only way to go is custom.

Exactly, and my cars driveablility will be out the window with the cams, and I don't need an extra thing to make it a pain in the ass.

use a standalone and yay problems gone

use a standalone and yay problems gone

I would, but unfortunatly, I don't have $2500 for a standalone.

I would, but unfortunatly, I don't have $2500 for a standalone.

Then you likely wouldn't want to spend the money for the blank LSJ billet cams.
Also considering that JBP is the only place you will find these, you likely wouldn't buy them anyways.

sow hat happened of the secret part number, can u give ti out ;)

Intake Cam Part #12589355BA
Exhaust Cam Part #12589340BA

I forget where I got those numbers....maybe they work.

I would, but unfortunatly, I don't have $2500 for a standalone.

Go JBP then and get the grind of stock units. Oh and a local news paper here "The WInnipeg Free Press" did a FREE PRESS TUNER CAR #3. the car of choice the cobalt SS/SC. they did custom cams and retained full warranty for the full build. they also made it wingless :cssNET:. so I would think if a newspaper with GM Dealer help is able to can get cams then you can....LOL.

He is getting a regrind on the stock cams from Crane Cams.

Thats great. I expect he will have great results.

Thats great. I expect he will have great results.

Not trying to be a dick or anything, but were you being sarcastic?

lol i say he was, get him

Intake Cam Part #12589355BA
Exhaust Cam Part #12589340BA

I forget where I got those numbers....maybe they work.

Those are the stock intake and a exhaust cams (not blanks) for the LNF 2.0L Turbo.

Thats great. I expect he will have great results.

Not trying to be a dick or anything, but were you being sarcastic?


:lol: LOL no no not at all. I am being sincere. I would like to see your car running and doing 12's constantly and then tell me how to get it done.

If I hit my hp goal, with racing slicks, I sure hope I run faster than 12s ;)

If I hit my hp goal, with racing slicks, I sure hope I run faster than 12s ;)

what is you hp goal, im aioming for 500 next spring, i hope ot be running 12's consistently this fall, :D

my oil pan is back on, :D

I'm shootin for 500 at the crank.

jeez. 500 at the crank will turn out to be what around 390-420 wheel?

forgot the formula for it in FWD.

cool, yah i think 500 is an awesome goal, once my gt30r goes on ill start making more reputavle numbers

I'm shootin for 500 at the crank.

cool, yah i think 500 is an awesome goal, once my gt30r goes on ill start making more reputable numbers

So what are you planning on doing with your transmissions?
I have seen the inside of our tranny's and the consensus is, they won't hold that power level.

So what are you planning on doing with your transmissions?
I have seen the inside of our tranny's and the consensus is, they won't hold that power level.

True so does anyone know the specs on what our stock trannys will hold as far as hp wise i am thinking roughly 400 maybe a little more or little less

i guess ill find out than, i do have a beefed grand prix gtp tranny, from my 01 grand am gt i was gonna use, but that car was sent to the crusher


as for now ill worry about it when my tranny does grenade, maybe ill talk to shepherd 's trannies, the guys who make bullit proof dsm tranny's :D in fact im e-mailing them in regards to my tranny right now, ill definately have to supply a donor lol

jeez. 500 at the crank will turn out to be what around 390-420 wheel?

forgot the formula for it in FWD.
500 at the crank (factoring in a 17% drivetrain loss) is about 427 whp :nuts:

So what are you planning on doing with your transmissions?
I have seen the inside of our tranny's and the consensus is, they won't hold that power level.

Shift slow :lol:

No, since I'm getting everything sponsored, I don't see why I wouldn't be able to get a set of custom straight cut gears, with a longer first gear ;)

500 at the crank (factoring in a 17% drivetrain loss) is about 427 whp :nuts:



Shift slow :lol:

No, since I'm getting everything sponsored, I don't see why I wouldn't be able to get a set of custom straight cut gears, with a longer first gear ;)

that is what Victory Red SS thought. then he found out it was cheaper to go with RWD LOL

actually just bump your HP down a little to make it an even 400hP the tranny can handle that. it is stronger than you might think. it will handle 400HP and there are axles that will go to 400 HP too. you should be safe and save yourself alot of bother messing with the F35 tranny. but what would be really cool is if it was possible to get a f25 in there. it is a six speed!

Your tranny will not handle that kind of power expecially w/ slicks!

No, since I'm getting everything sponsored, I don't see why I wouldn't be able to get a set of custom straight cut gears, with a longer first gear ;)


I hate you.:nono:

that is what Victory Red SS thought. then he found out it was cheaper to go with RWD LOL

actually just bump your HP down a little to make it an even 400hP the tranny can handle that. it is stronger than you might think. it will handle 400HP and there are axles that will go to 400 HP too. you should be safe and save yourself alot of bother messing with the F35 tranny. but what would be really cool is if it was possible to get a f25 in there. it is a six speed!

f25 is not the greatest idea.. i dont think it has LSD. and even if it does i doubt it would be the qualife main carrier like the comp pack lsj's.. which makes the stock tranny so much stronger...good luck with your build. cant wait to see results. break into 11's or jus plain break.. jus my .2cents..

that is what Victory Red SS thought. then he found out it was cheaper to go with RWD LOL

actually just bump your HP down a little to make it an even 400hP the tranny can handle that. it is stronger than you might think. it will handle 400HP and there are axles that will go to 400 HP too. you should be safe and save yourself alot of bother messing with the F35 tranny. but what would be really cool is if it was possible to get a f25 in there. it is a six speed!
:nono: Uh, no thanks. I'd rather go through the hassle of messing with the tranny, rather than knocking my power back 100 HP

I hate you.:nono:

:D :D :D Glad to help!

Acutally I dont hate you. It's your sponsership that i hate. any more pics on the build? you know everyone loves pictures of the build process.

I don't know about the F25 specs, but the F40 trans is stonger than the F35 and is also a 6 speed. It is used on the turbo Saab.

I don't know about the F25 specs, but the F40 trans is stonger than the F35 and is also a 6 speed. It is used on the turbo Saab.

The F40 is marginally stronger but not enough for 500hp and try buying a new one. The dealership wanted $13,000US. Buy used and who knows what you are getting.
I also found a company willing to make new parts for the F35, the input/output shafts really need to be replaced. The cost for doing that was as bad as a new F40.
There is also the option of doing a race-prepped auto tranny from GM, $25,000US:nono:
As SSnipes said, there is a reason I chose to convert to RWD. ;)

I know of F40 transmissions holding up in 450 horse applications for 6 months of daily driving abuse now. Just to toss that out there. And you can pick on up on ebay used for <$500 now, too. But the gearing is still far less than ideal.

guess ill look for a potiace g6 gtp totalled, as they come with on, ill need to do a bell housing swap if its possible, i can get a tranny on ebay like shab said for 500 bucks plus shipping

All you need to do is rebuild the synchros and bearings for a stronger application. I am pretty sure the input shaft is strong enough.

All you need to do is rebuild the synchros and bearings for a stronger application. I am pretty sure the input shaft is strong enough.

After that statement I am willing to go out on a very thin limb and say "you've never seen the input shaft"

After that statement I am willing to go out on a very thin limb and say "you've never seen the input shaft"

You'll have to forgive my friend. He's a little... slow :lol: :nuts: :lol:

So Blown, are you using your "hogged" out stock blower or ????

Stock Eaton M62 ported to the max, with a 2.6" pulley.

Blown is my hero.

Anything different on the "outside" (exhaust,cooling,f.i.,etc...) of your engine or is it same set up you had?

Anything different on the "outside" (exhaust,cooling,f.i.,etc...) of your engine or is it same set up you had?

:nono:

Read thread my friend.

I don't know about the F25 specs, but the F40 trans is stonger than the F35 and is also a 6 speed. It is used on the turbo Saab.

wish they could bolt up.

Anything different on the "outside" (exhaust,cooling,f.i.,etc...) of your engine or is it same set up you had?

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2995/mofoyh4by0.gif

wish they could bolt up.

bell housing swap. or bellhousing adapter plate

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2995/mofoyh4by0.gif

Hahahaha :lol:

Blown is my hero.

which is funny cause he's a total nerd IRL :P

Ok, so basically everything is done today. In terms of taking care of parts. Finally got the rods figured out. Eagle is going to supply my rods. As it turns out, the 2.2L rod is the same length as the 2.0L rod. The bearing diameter is also the same. The only difference is the pin bore is smaller (21mm vs. 23mm). I talked to Tom Shomba (sp?) who has an 1150 hp RWD Cavy and works at a local dealer ship. He said for some of their less hp motors (650-700 hp) They use the eagle rods and have the pin bore opened up. I'm going to order a GM intake cam blank, and have my stock exhaust cam reground. Tom said with good exhaust flow the exhaust cam is not as important as the intake cam with a supercharger. So I'm doing a pretty radical intake, and grinding the exhaust as much as possible. Centerforce clutches is also supplying a twin disc clutch. So basically, no I just need to get the head ported, crank machined, and neutral balance shafts made, and I can put this son of a bitch back together!!! :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :D :D :D :twothumbs

Sounds good Blown. Sponsored clutch too?

Everything sponsored, except the cam blanks, the adjustable cam gears, the head studs, the main studs, and the head gasket.

What is the total in parts you payed for and parts you received?

just curious.

Obviously installation is free.:twothumbs

I'm gonna have to pay for like $700-800 in parts and machining. Which is a little more than 1/10 of the cost of the free parts :D :lol:

So when is ETA?

Give me +rep and I'll tell you :lol: I'm sick of being at 1 bar!

- rep given. :D

Good! Keep it comin!

what is you hp goal, im aioming for 500 next spring, i hope ot be running 12's consistently this fall, :D

my oil pan is back on, :D

I am just about hitting 12's with stock internals and likely 260 270 WHP. I have not dynoed it but with my mods that is just an educated guess. My point is you should be better than 12's with that kind of power. more than likely 11's

:nono: Uh, no thanks. I'd rather go through the hassle of messing with the tranny, rather than knocking my power back 100 HP



:D :D :D Glad to help!

Well dont be disappointed to much if you have to change your mind. I hope it holds.


I don't know about the F25 specs, but the F40 trans is stonger than the F35 and is also a 6 speed. It is used on the turbo Saab.

Just a matter of deciding which has better gear ratios then. F25 was to be the same strength as f35.

bell housing swap. or bellhousing adapter plate

Hmmm.... did not know bell housing is not cast as part of the tranny. show me links.

Ok, so basically everything is done today. In terms of taking care of parts. Finally got the rods figured out. Eagle is going to supply my rods. As it turns out, the 2.2L rod is the same length as the 2.0L rod. The bearing diameter is also the same. The only difference is the pin bore is smaller (21mm vs. 23mm). I talked to Tom Shomba (sp?) who has an 1150 hp RWD Cavy and works at a local dealer ship. He said for some of their less hp motors (650-700 hp) They use the eagle rods and have the pin bore opened up. I'm going to order a GM intake cam blank, and have my stock exhaust cam reground. Tom said with good exhaust flow the exhaust cam is not as important as the intake cam with a supercharger. So I'm doing a pretty radical intake, and grinding the exhaust as much as possible. Centerforce clutches is also supplying a twin disc clutch. So basically, no I just need to get the head ported, crank machined, and neutral balance shafts made, and I can put this son of a bitch back together!!! :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :D :D :D :twothumbs

Now you can get a Blank? As far as exhaust not that important I would think matched flow with no overlap is important. (my questions are intended to learn). GM sells neutral balance shafts. is this a daily driver? I wouldnt do it for the gain of 10HP if it is.

I'm gonna have to pay for like $700-800 in parts and machining. Which is a little more than 1/10 of the cost of the free parts :D :lol:

where is your car going? SEMA?

I don't know why everyone says Neutral Balance Shafts aren't good for a daily driver. Witt has them installed on here, and I have them. You barely notice any vibes. Plus you get faster revs such as a lighter flywheel. If you already have any type of solid mount, you definately won't notice the vibes at all. Witt has just the Intense inserts on his lower tranny mounts, and he didn't notice any difference.

Now you can get a Blank? As far as exhaust not that important I would think matched flow with no overlap is important. (my questions are intended to learn). GM sells neutral balance shafts. is this a daily driver? I wouldnt do it for the gain of 10HP if it is.

Well, I talked to him on the phone, and he has an 1150 hp cavy with a 2.16L ecotec, so I'll take his word for it. He also said they are running 117 degrees of lobe seration on their car. He also said I don't as aggressive an exhaust cam as I do intake, as long as I have a good flowing exhaust (which I do).

I repped you and didnt get an ETA!!!!!

Hopefully, mid to late August for first start up.

Ok, so basically everything is done today. In terms of taking care of parts. Finally got the rods figured out. Eagle is going to supply my rods. As it turns out, the 2.2L rod is the same length as the 2.0L rod. The bearing diameter is also the same. The only difference is the pin bore is smaller (21mm vs. 23mm). I talked to Tom Shomba (sp?) who has an 1150 hp RWD Cavy and works at a local dealer ship. He said for some of their less hp motors (650-700 hp) They use the eagle rods and have the pin bore opened up. I'm going to order a GM intake cam blank, and have my stock exhaust cam reground. Tom said with good exhaust flow the exhaust cam is not as important as the intake cam with a supercharger. So I'm doing a pretty radical intake, and grinding the exhaust as much as possible. Centerforce clutches is also supplying a twin disc clutch. So basically, no I just need to get the head ported, crank machined, and neutral balance shafts made, and I can put this son of a bitch back together!!! :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :D :D :D :twothumbs

Ahh, so you did actually get to talk to him. And its Tom Shaumbaugh.:lol: BTW, his 1150hp cavy is gonna be more like 1300 once he puts on his bigger turbo setup.;) NHRA authorized it!! You are going to put on the adjustable cam gears too right? Ain't that what he said?

Oh yeah, of course I'll have adjustible cam gears.

Funny how I mention adjustable cam gears and you tell me they are a waste of money.