Alright I'm in the process of changing my brake pads and I ran into a problem... I started on the rear drivers side and after taking the old pads out i figure out that the puck/piston whatever you wanna call it.. will not go back into the caliper..i've tried just about everything and i dont know if its just stuck or if theres a trick to it...Also sometimes when im leaving after my cars been sitting a while i hear a pop noise like my parking brake is sticking. Has neone else had this problem? I need help asap..

 

so you did try to put it back in with a huge c clamp??? just checking for the obvious. if it is not going back into the caliper it is stuck,warranty time.

 

you might have to twist and push at the same time, you can use big channel locks with a prybar. and its brakes not breaks.

 

I tried using a big c-clamp and no luck..I havent tried the twisting and pushing method yet i guess ill have to give that a shot

 

You didn't push the brake pedal without the bleeder screw open did you?

 

DO NOT DO anything those people said. there is a special tool most rear caliper cars use. its a little cube. goto autozone and buy a REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER TOOL its a little cube with little notches on each pointed end. match up the side on the cube to the notches in yer car take a ratchet and turn it inward. they spiral down so be careful when turning it and make sure u use the right notch side on the cube. should work that way. and if yer going to do pads u SHOULD turn the rotors or buy new ones. putting new pads on used rotors may cause the pad to prematurely wear. either way i understand cuz sometimes u just dont have enuff money and it sux i hate it.

 

Listen to this post right here. The pistons are actually threaded which is why they twist. You need this tool!

Good post.

 

such bad info......use a pair of needle nose pliers and twist clockwise while pushing in.
btw, a GM tech taught me that one...much cheaper than buying 'tool'

 

I have might have to go with Doc on this one. I mean come on hes the DOC.

 

I sure am ...n8dogg was on the right track....well, kinda..then he had a brain fart with the correct spelling of brakes.

 

Well I think he was kidding. But, either way the tool doesn't cost anything, you just give them some money as collateral while you borrow it.

Trust me, I've seen it done this way too and nothing bad happened. But, if there's a tool that will make it easier and take away any chance of causing damage you might as well use it.

 

or you could jsut take my advice i didnt pay thousands of dollars for school or work in a dealership or anything. the tool is at MOST less than 15 bux and youll need it if u plan on doing rear brakes in the future. dont be cheap. do it the right way. doing it the wrong way can lead to problems. some unknown. whats worth more to u, buying a 5-10 dollar tool and doing it right? or doing it the cheap way and snapping something crossthreading or overtorqueing the piston and having to pay CUSTOMER PAY at the DEALERSHIP to get it fixed since it prob wont be covered under warranty since u did it yerself? imagin 70 bux an hour flat rate times lets give it 2-3 hours? 2 hours is what a brake job pays so a waste of 170 bux plus parts PLUS tax. id buy the tool and do it right.

 

There isn't a tool made that will help you.

 

doc's right guys, thats how i did my brakes, needle nose pliers and push in as you twist, i was in the middle of my brake job and had to call the dealership for help lol.

thats what they told me and it works fine.

i think its one of those weird gm tools, i might be wrong though, i looked for one around here but couldn't find it, no big deal though.