What are the numbers I should see when I do a compression test today. I have a crank but no start after I rebuilt the motor and everything is hooked up right so I am thinking that the timing might be a little off. Is this motor an interference motor? I turned it over and it didnt hit the vales while it was on the engine stand.

What are the numbers I should see when I do a compression test today. I have a crank but no start after I rebuilt the motor and everything is hooked up right so I am thinking that the timing might be a little off. Is this motor an interference motor? I turned it over and it didnt hit the vales while it was on the engine stand.

If all of the timing marks line up and the colors match then you are good; that is what you should pay attention to the most.

"For each cylinder, crank engine through 4 compression strokes.
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest.
No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi)."

no cylinder should be less then 100 psi, and the lowest cylinder should not be less then 70 percent of the highest cylinder....however, if you lined all the timing marks up on the cam gears and crank gear, you should be alright. Double check all your sensors and wiring......good luck :)

no cylinder should be less then 100 psi, and the lowest cylinder should not be less then 70 percent of the highest cylinder....however, if you lined all the timing marks up on the cam gears and crank gear, you should be alright. Double check all your sensors and wiring......good luck :)

Haha, you beat me too it. I was editing my post and then saw that you had added this :twothumbs .

haha yea, it was slow here at the end of the day so I figured I'd hop on SI and look up the #'s haha

If you just built the engine, you can tell by the sound of the cranking if the compression is at least good enough for it to start. Really, a compression test is not a troubleshooting step in an engine that won't start. Ignition and fuel are the places you need to be looking. And with this engine, all the electrical connections.

And yes, it is an interference valve train, but you turned it on the stand, so it's fine.

What are the numbers I should see when I do a compression test today. I have a crank but no start after I rebuilt the motor and everything is hooked up right so I am thinking that the timing might be a little off. Is this motor an interference motor? I turned it over and it didnt hit the vales while it was on the engine stand.


Are you getting any check engine lights?

All timing marks were right on and the fuel pump starts and I have spark but it just wont fire. I am currently charging the battery. I have all the wire connectors plugged in the right spots and no check engine lights.

well if you have spark, the timing is right, and you have fuel (assuming you have adequate pressure at the rail itself), the only thing i can think of would be a lack of compression or the injectors arent firing. to check the injectors your gonna either need a noid light or a fuel pressure gauge and scan tool to do a injector balance test.

All timing marks were right on and the fuel pump starts and I have spark but it just wont fire. I am currently charging the battery. I have all the wire connectors plugged in the right spots and no check engine lights.

Yeah, check to make sure you have injector pulse.

The car has been sitting for three months. Do you think the fuel could have gone bad? I sprayed starting fluid in the vacuum spot after the throttle body and it still didn't start. Could the crank sensor be stopping it from starting?

The car has been sitting for three months. Do you think the fuel could have gone bad? I sprayed starting fluid in the vacuum spot after the throttle body and it still didn't start. Could the crank sensor be stopping it from starting?

You probably shouldn't spray that into the blower; it could puddle up in the intake.

You really should check for injector pulse. That starter fluid won't tell you anything.

You probably shouldn't spray that into the blower; it could puddle up in the intake.

You really should check for injector pulse. That starter fluid won't tell you anything.

It was just a quick burst to see if it tried to actually start instead of just crank I will check the pulse width tomorrow.

When I did a compression test it read 175 for pistons 1,2,4 and 170 for piston 3.

It was just a quick burst to see if it tried to actually start instead of just crank I will check the pulse width tomorrow.

Yeah, I see what you're saying.

Here's a simple check. Turn on the car's power, and go press open the test port schrader valve on the fuel rail. If you get sprayed in the face, you know at least there is pressure at the rail.

Here's another. How exactly do you know you are getting ignition? Take a spark plug out, ground it, and crank. See if you actually are getting a spark.

There is fuel comming out of the rail. I am going to test the exact pressure of it though. And there is spark i have checked that.

There is fuel comming out of the rail. I am going to test the exact pressure of it though. And there is spark i have checked that.

How about injector pulse? Have you checked that yet?

No I am bringing the noid lights home from work today. Will check that as well. Also ordered a fuel filter because I have twenty thousand miles on the car. Figured it might be a cheap solution.

No I am bringing the noid lights home from work today. Will check that as well. Also ordered a fuel filter because I have twenty thousand miles on the car. Figured it might be a cheap solution.

Well let us know what you find out when you use the noid lights.

I will no in three hours. What do you suppose could be going on if the noid lights dont flash at all?

Edit:

No blown fuses or bad relays either.

Check with a scan tool to confirm you see "Engine Speed/RPM" while cranking
How exactly did you have the timing chain and gear marks oriented?
Did you install the camshaft position sensor (CMP) at that time as well? (while everything oriented to COMP TDC#4)
Wop

I just pulled the head off didnt pull any of it apart, I lined up all the color marks where they were suppose to go according to the build book. Like I said I have a interceptor. What should I be expecting to see as far as rpm and pulse width?

I just pulled the head off didnt pull any of it apart, I lined up all the color marks where they were suppose to go according to the build book. Like I said I have a interceptor. What should I be expecting to see as far as rpm and pulse width?

First you just need to see if the gauge registers any rpm or injector pulse at all. Don't worry about exact numbers until you confirm this.

Just check out the rpm while cranking, and check for power at the injectors as well as pulse.

So I checked with the noid lights and it is showing voltage at it and the gauge shows 19rpms while cranking. The pulse width is showing 3.4. I am starting to think the car is never going to start.:mad:

what were your compression readings?

This was on a jeep, but it might just be the same for this problem. I did a new head gasket in a jeep straight six and after i was done, it wouldnt start, it pissed me off and i had all the major needs, fuel, air, compression, spark. i worked on it for awhile and i thought that maybe it had some coolant in it so i pulled out all the plugs and cranked it, nothing came out. well then i put a squirt of oil in each cylinder, (to prevent dry start) and when i put all the plugs back in, it started right up, no problem. never hesiated to start again, so maybe give that a try.

I didn't do a compression test cause a couple people on here told me as long as my timing chain was on correct I shouldnt have to worry about it.

well ive learned through personal experience on cars at work that assumption is the mother of all your fuck ups. just because it SHOULD be right doesnt mean it is. and it really sucks when you find out you wasted a bunch of time instead of doing a quick check. cant hurt to do it real quick. and if you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, good spark, correct timing, and good compression. the only thing i can see that would prevent it from at least trying to start would be some of the injectors being clogged and/or bad and not actually shooting fuel in the cylinder. also...i had a 2.2 head job to do a while back and put it all back together and swore up and down i had the timing right and i cranked it over and it wouldnt start at all. so i checked the compression and found it to be out of whack, so i pulled the head back off and to my dismay, i managed to bend all the intake valves hah.

I didn't do a compression test cause a couple people on here told me as long as my timing chain was on correct I shouldnt have to worry about it.

Well, I think those people were just saying to do the simple tests first before doing a compression test. Now that you have the test results you should move on to a compression test. To do a compression test you will need to open the throttle 100% to get a proper reading; this leads me to my next question.

Out of curiousity, do you for sure have all vacuum lines hooked up properly?

if hes got a vacuum leak causing the no start it must be a hole punched in the intake or something big cause ive started cars up time and time again and forgot a vacuum line or two until i heard the whistling.

if hes got a vacuum leak causing the no start it must be a hole punched in the intake or something big cause ive started cars up time and time again and forgot a vacuum line or two until i heard the whistling.

I'm not referring to a vacuum leak. I'm just asking if he has all vacuum lines hooked up properly.

Everything seems to be hooked up properly I am currently in the process of putting the head back on. Pulled it off to check everything and to redo the timing chain just in case. I'll let you know how it goes later.:thumbsdow

I'd put my money on the cam position sensor being off. Although I'm pretty sure after a whole bunch of cranking and the PCM not detecting an engine speed increase, it might eventually start. It takes about 10-15 seconds when its disconnected, so I'm sure its more than that if its connected and the PCM doesn't know its bad or installed at the wrong position. However it may cause a no start condition if you have it 180 degrees backwards. At every other angle it should detect that its not aligned to the crank sensor correctly.

You could always unplug it and try starting the car, would rule that out pretty quick.

I just pulled the head off didnt pull any of it apart, I lined up all the color marks where they were suppose to go according to the build book. Like I said I have a interceptor. What should I be expecting to see as far as rpm and pulse width?

There is the problem, right there.

I'm surprised in the posts after this one nobody caught it.

You pulled off the head. At that point in time, the timing was in some random place, along with the cam position sensor attached to it, which you didn't remove.

Then you reinstalled the head, and lined up the timing marks on the chain side. Good. But you then have to remove the cam position sensor, spin the engine after the chain is on to the correct TDC, and reinstall the sensor with the correct alignment as well.

You might think that because you didn't take it off that you didn't change anything. But when you turned the cams with the timing chain off, you did.

There is the problem, right there.

I'm surprised in the posts after this one nobody caught it.

You pulled off the head. At that point in time, the timing was in some random place, along with the cam position sensor attached to it, which you didn't remove.

Then you reinstalled the head, and lined up the timing marks on the chain side. Good. But you then have to remove the cam position sensor, spin the engine after the chain is on to the correct TDC, and reinstall the sensor with the correct alignment as well.

You might think that because you didn't take it off that you didn't change anything. But when you turned the cams with the timing chain off, you did.

Ok sounds like a good reason to not start. So my next question is, what is the correct way to intall the cam sensor. I have put the head back on and #1 at tdc and aligned the timing marks where they should be. How do I install the cam sensor correctly?

Ok sounds like a good reason to not start. So my next question is, what is the correct way to intall the cam sensor. I have put the head back on and #1 at tdc and aligned the timing marks where they should be. How do I install the cam sensor correctly?

Ok, you need #4 piston at the top of the compression stroke. This just so happens to be when the timing marks are lined up the way the 300hp build book says to do it. Then align the notch on the hex drive one the end of the cam sensor with the line on the housing.

You might want to just completely disconnect the cam sensor harness from the sensor first. If its disconnected, the car will start but after an extended cranking cycle. If it still doesn't start after about 25 seconds or so with it disconnected, the cam sensor is probably not the problem.

Ok, you need #4 piston at the top of the compression stroke. This just so happens to be when the timing marks are lined up the way the 300hp build book says to do it. Then align the notch on the hex drive one the end of the cam sensor with the line on the housing.
You might want to just completely disconnect the cam sensor harness from the sensor first. If its disconnected, the car will start but after an extended cranking cycle. If it still doesn't start after about 25 seconds or so with it disconnected, the cam sensor is probably not the problem.

Sorry for my stupidity right now but I am not sure what you are telling me to do right there

Sorry for my stupidity right now but I am not sure what you are telling me to do right there

He's giving you the directions to lining up the cam sensor. The sensor itself has to be lined up. Here is a picture showing the hex drive and marks which Witt was referring to. But, before you take the cam sensor off, just unplug it and crank the car over for 20 seconds or maybe a bit more and the car will start if that is the problem; if the car does not start then that is not the problem.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c125/Mikey851/camsensor.gif

He's giving you the directions to lining up the cam sensor. The sensor itself has to be lined up. Here is a picture showing the hex drive and marks which Witt was referring to. But, before you take the cam sensor off, just unplug it and crank the car over for 20 seconds or maybe a bit more and the car will start if that is the problem; if the car does not start then that is not the problem.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c125/Mikey851/camsensor.gif

Well I am going to pull it and check it just incase anyway. That way I can be positive that it is right on.

I run my car without this sensor. Do what Witt says, hold the key to start and just keep letting the motor crank. It will take up to 25 seconds and 10-15 cranks the first time. If the motor eventually starts, thats your problem. If not, then it is something else.

Well I got everything put back together and checked the cam sensor. It was right where it was suppose to be. I think out of sheer stupidity and cause I was rushing to much I put the cams opposite of where there where suppose to be. Intake opening when exhaust was suppose to be opening and exhaust opening when intake was suppose to be onen:thumbsdow
So now it runs and I just have to bleed everything cause I did it already but then my brakes and clutch still dont work. Is there any order in when to bleed the clutch or is it just after you do the brakes?

Well I got everything put back together and checked the cam sensor. It was right where it was suppose to be. I think out of sheer stupidity and cause I was rushing to much I put the cams opposite of where there where suppose to be. Intake opening when exhaust was suppose to be opening and exhaust opening when intake was suppose to be onen:thumbsdow
So now it runs and I just have to bleed everything cause I did it already but then my brakes and clutch still dont work. Is there any order in when to bleed the clutch or is it just after you do the brakes?

1. Clean dirt and grease from the cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
2. Attach a hose to the bleeder port on the clutch actuator assembly. Submerge the other end of the hose in a container of DOT 3 hydraulic fluid.
3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly to the full depressed position.


4. Push the clip in order to move the clutch line into the bleed position.
5. Move the clutch line into the normal position ensuring that the clip returns.
6. Lift the clutch pedal to the up stop position and hold for 5 seconds.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until air is purged from the clutch system.

Wait, you installed the cams in the wrong spots? That's a new one. I don't think the cam sensor would even work in that case since only one cam has a drive spline.

Wait, you installed the cams in the wrong spots? That's a new one. I don't think the cam sensor would even work in that case since only one cam has a drive spline.

That's kind of funny actually if you think about it. I can picture someone saying, "My dad said if you install the cams opposite of stock and turn the blower the other way it will help pull exhaust out of the intake therefore causing a vacuum on the exhaust which is behind the car so it will pull in fresh air." :lol:

I didnt install them in the wrong spots. I never took them out of the car. I put the cam gears back on which only go on one way. But when I lined up the marks I put them on the opposite lines on the cam gears.

OH! You used the wrong timing marks! I didn't get that last time. You are super lucky you didn't bend the shit out of your whole valve train. In fact, you should check that.

Yeah I checked it. I pulled the head off again yesterday and checked everything when that is what I thought was wrong. On a side note. I have bleed the brakes 3 times now and the clutch twice regular and once vacuum style. I am still not getting pressure what the f is going on?