Hi Guy's just a general question, and some food for thought.

since we have all been modifying our cars, demand on the oil used are much higher.
what are you guy's doing, are you making more frequent oil changes?

I've been thinking of changing the viscosity that I'm using.
I was thinking on going to 5W-40 so that the oil would break down less now that I'm revving so much higher and the engine is working harder.

any thoughts

please have constructive answers thanks

a fair question.

I dont know enough about changing oil viscosity to comment on that....
but i always change my oil at 3-4k.
it never hurts to give your baby clean new oil.

I think going with a very slightly higher viscosity couldn't hurt, but I think staying with 5W-30 wouldn't cause any damage though either.

i change mine every 2K to 2500 miles, i dont let the display go down past 25%, IIRC i dont even like when it goes below 40% lol.

The oil life monitor measures engine temp and revolutions over time, so if you drive harder or faster, it will count down faster. Unless I did something that actually called for a different type of oil altogether, I will continue to use the OLM.

I stick with Full Synthetic Mobil 1 5w30 and I follow the Oil Life Monitor. Synthetic doesn't break down nearly as fast and also is much more resilient then conventional oil.j

I have know issues with the DIC, I let it go to about 10-15% it's great for what it is design for, but the car wasn't design to run with all the modification that we have been making,
not that I'm running hotter with the increased boost, and I'll be reving much higher then origanally designed, I'm trying to think of what to do to oensure the longevity of the car.

my next logical step was to adjest the oils viscosity at high running temp. from 30 to 40.

and I was wondering if anyone else was thinking along these lines, or had any other ideas or expertice on it.
I know it was a common thing with some of the oldtimers and there muscle cars after they've been modified, and was wondering if we should do the same!

I have know issues with the DIC, I let it go to about 10-15% it's great for what it is design for, but the car wasn't design to run with all the modification that we have been making,
not that I'm running hotter with the increased boost, and I'll be reving much higher then origanally designed, I'm trying to think of what to do to oensure the longevity of the car.

my next logical step was to adjest the oils viscosity at high running temp. from 30 to 40.

and I was wondering if anyone else was thinking along these lines, or had any other ideas or expertice on it.
I know it was a common thing with some of the oldtimers and there muscle cars after they've been modified, and was wondering if we should do the same!

Good thinking and if I hadnt had experience with this I would probably think the same. However: The engine is designed to rev that high, your not reving higher than it was designed for.

We did a study in one of my MET classes between oils and found the biggest reason for needing to change oil had more to do with the dirt/carbon build up than the breakdown due to temperature.

If your strictly using the car for drag racing and auto-X then it wouldnt hurt but for daily use you really wont benefit from switching over.

I just put in Royal Purple 20W-50 last weekend. I have noticed a tad more performance and a 2MPG jump! We do live in an area that rarely drops below 32F so we do not need to go as low as 5W.

AMSOIL would be a step up from mobil 1 and even from royal purple. AMSOIL is the best synthetic you can get.

I'll be reving at 8000RPM which it was not designed for, which is wh I asked if I should up my viscsity

I'll be reving at 8000RPM which it was not designed for, which is wh I asked if I should up my viscsity

Yeah, I'm gonna switch to 5W-40 synthetic. You want a little bit thicker viscosity for super high rpm. Hell, top fuel cars use 70 weight!!! I'll be reving mine to 8156, or whatever the highest you can set the rev limiter to on HP Tuners is :lol:

cooling mods should be on your list of things to do aswell.
dual pass, aftermarket heat exchanger with the stocker, meth wouldnt hurt either:)

I'll be reving at 8000RPM which it was not designed for, which is wh I asked if I should up my viscsity

Amsoil would be great for you. i run it in my Si, which hits the 8000 rpm redline evertime i drive her. its good stuff.

The oil life monitor measures engine temp and revolutions over time, so if you drive harder or faster, it will count down faster. Unless I did something that actually called for a different type of oil altogether, I will continue to use the OLM.

x1 .

cooling mods should be on your list of things to do aswell.
dual pass, aftermarket heat exchanger with the stocker, meth wouldnt hurt either:)

cooling mods will be done only after I fix a couple of problems, they are not the solution to my issues.

but this is a completely seperate issue.
as you increase the pressure in the cylinders, and then even further increase the rat at which the pistons are woring in the cylinders, I'm worried about the longevity of those sleves if they're not properly lubricated. regardless of the temerature that the car is running, the increased friction will heat up the actual cylinder sleve and break down the oil quicker with all those factors.

I change my oil every week or soo because I get it for free at work, and for alike 2 weeks I was using mobil 1 15w50, haha I was soo thick good at the track though not for the street though

check this link out
http://bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/index-amzoil.shtml

I change my oil every 5K miles. I use RP

change mine around 40-50% just incase which is around 3k miles depending on how i drive it.

I run 10w30 Full Syn because it never gets below 32 degrees here, and in the summer its near 100.

It mostly has to do with temp ranges. Too thin of oil in extremly hot temperatures doesnt not luberacte well because it becomes like water and drains back into the pan too quickly, sometimes causeing airation. (air bubbles in the oil) ((Also why you shouldnt over fill your oil either)) This causes either a low oil pressure condition or a lack of the oils ability to luberacate because of air taking up the volume.

Too thick of an oil in cooler weather can cause damage also, too thick and it takes longer for the oil to be pumped to the top of the engine and lube the cams and valvetrain, causeing premature wear.

If you look at the manual it says to run 5w30 in all temp condidtions, of couse thats the ideal for the car, and to get the best gas mileage. But since I dont have to worry about excessively cold temps or park outside, I use 10w30.





But heres what the service manual says:

Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine

Look for three things:

• GM6094M

Your vehicle's engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

• SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.



Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.




For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine Only

Look for three things:

• GM4718M

Your vehicle's engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.

Notice: If you use oils that do not have the GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

• SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.





Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

Your vehicle's engine is filled at the factory with a synthetic oil which meets all requirements for your vehicle.

Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change.

Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

thanks for all that info, but I think some people are missing the opint to my question.
if the car is stock, then stick with the stock requirements.
my question was for those who are heavaly modified, and running with higher RPM ranges.
going with some oldschool logic here, but generally when you start to see much higher engine temperatures do to the power increase, or RPM increase, or compression ratio increase.
all these things cause engines to run at a higher stress level.

shouldn't we increase the viscosity of the oil change to reflect that change.

Player_1 I aggree with you, thats why I run 10w30

Thats was the intent of the first part of what I posted, however there is too much of a good thing.

Also if youre dealing with increased engine temps, then the change needs to be in the cooling system, and exhaust gas temp management. To witch guages are made for both.

If the oil temp itself rises above 230ish it starts to brake down faster, hence your point of question. However relying on the oil to assist to cool the motor by going to a thicker oil is not the solution.

The thickness of oil should be based on the average ambient temp the motor will be run in and the machine tolerance specs. To witch most of these are daily drivers, not full on race cars. (Tight tolerances to last many miles before showing wear.)

Too thick of an oil and you start starving the engine of oil in colder temps and/or because the tolerances between machined surfaces are so tight the oil cannot reach those places. 10w30 maybe 10w40 in extreme heat situations, andor after the motor has 60 70 thousand miles on it or shows signs of oil burning.

Of course every one has opinions, and these are just my own and my own experiences, from my old v8's to Jeeps, to my previous hondas and other small 4 cyclinders. Doesnt mean its right, just means it worked for me.

thanks for the advice blktrax it has been usefull.
the reason I've started to think about this, is I know I'm going to have to start thinking about cooling mods now, but running at 8000RPm is now pushinghigher temps, that and I'm now at 75k milage, I'm thinking more of making the car last as well.
I love it, and don't want to have to rebuild it you know.

thanks again

Pesonally I would add a larger oil cooler to reduce your oils temps. The cooler the oil is to a POINT the better is able to lubricate.

I honestly wouldnt worry about going to a higher weight oil unless your either:

1 using the car as a race only vehicle. (which is so far from stock that the only thing stock about it is the GM decal you put on the front of the cars aero package)

2 have a high millage engine of over 50K

3 are in a area where the temperature averages above 110 degrees

Your using a synthetic oil that is very resistant to breaking down form high temperatures straight form the factory. Watch your oil pressure after running the car for about 30 min or at the end of the drag strip. if at idle your getting less than 20psi then changing to a higher viscosity -MIGHT- be a good idea. I say thsi because of teh tighter specifications that engine makers have with new engines.As a matter of fact the Police variation for the Ford Crown Vic runs on 5W-20. Those engines routinely have that oil added to them well past the 100k mark and run just fine.


I had a case where a tech in a bay over put 5-30 in the engine and the car came back a week later with oil consumption problems. The thicker oil caused seals to fail due to a raise in the oil pressure.

If your going to run thicker oil that's fine, but be very careful. Running something like 20W-50 is to be honest unnecicary and possible damaging.. That's oil intended for a diesel engine that runs 24 7 without a break in the summer.

check this link out
http://bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/index-amzoil.shtml

Note Amsoil doenst' have RP, Motul, Greddy, Brisk, or any other exotic racing oils in that test.

Not to say Amsoil isn't great oil, it is. It's just in that comparison they are like a major league baseball player playing against a bunch of 12 year olds.