Just installed the new K&N typhoon on my SS. When I turned the car on I immdediately got a CEL, and figured it was memory code one. Drove it around, everything seemed fine. Drove it to work today and the CEL was still on. When I left work I noticed it had gone out, but on my way home it came back on. Craaaaaaaaaap! I don't wanna go buy an obd2 reader so I can know what code it is, aren't they like $100? I checked the connections and everything seems fine. Ugh.. I shouldn't have been a guinea pig for this.

Just installed the new K&N typhoon on my SS. When I turned the car on I immdediately got a CEL, and figured it was memory code one. Drove it around, everything seemed fine. Drove it to work today and the CEL was still on. When I left work I noticed it had gone out, but on my way home it came back on. Craaaaaaaaaap! I don't wanna go buy an obd2 reader so I can know what code it is, aren't they like $100? I checked the connections and everything seems fine. Ugh.. I shouldn't have been a guinea pig for this.
Do you have Onstar?

If you do, press your Onstar button and ask for a remote diagnostic.

Do you have Onstar?

If you do, press your Onstar button and ask for a remote diagnostic.

No I don't have Onstar. If you are serious hah

No I don't have Onstar. If you are serious hah
Ah :(

lol yes I am serious, they can check for CEL's and tell you what it's related to. They won't tell you the exact code though. If you have a fuel trim lean code they will say there is a problem with the fuel module.

I just ordered Auto Tap today with the GM kit because I get codes regularly for no reason. It was about $275 which was a pretty good price considering what it's capable of.

Here is some information from another thread in the event of a P0171 Code (fuel trim lean)


DTC P0171

Conditions for setting this fault:

1. The long term FT weighted average value is more than a calibrated value.

2. The above condition is present for more than 2 minutes.


Conditions for DTC/CEL reset (note MIL=CEL):

1. The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

2. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.

3. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

4. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Notice the light should go off after 3 ignition cycles if the problem is fixed, the fault will come off the history after 40 ignition cycles.


Stuff you can check at home without a scan tool that could cause this condition:

1. Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components
2. Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, and injector O-rings
3. The air induction system and air intake ducts for leaks
4. The crankcase ventilation system for leaks
5. The evaporative canister purge pipes for obstructions or plugging

ugh... well I guess I'm gonna wait this out a bit and see if it goes out in a few days. If it doesn't I'll go to walmart and pick up a reader. If I get a reader, is there anything specific I should be looking for, or can I buy any one?

I really hope I don't have to get one though :(
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?

ugh... well I guess I'm gonna wait this out a bit and see if it goes out in a few days. If it doesn't I'll go to walmart and pick up a reader. If I get a reader, is there anything specific I should be looking for, or can I buy any one?

I really hope I don't have to get one though :(
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?
Instead of getting a scan tool at walmart, go to Autozone or Advance autoparts, they will usually read your code for free.

I just may try that. If the CEL doesn't go off........... ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

In my opionion, anybody who plans to modify AND install those mods themselves should invest in a reader since any future installs may cause more CEL's. Think of the $$ you're saving in labour costs for intsalling the mods yourselves. Use that saved $$ and invest into a good reader like MarcS recommends in his post. :cssNET: :ca:

In my opionion, anybody who plans to modify AND install those mods themselves should invest in a reader since any future installs may cause more CEL's. Think of the $$ you're saving in labour costs for intsalling the mods yourselves. Use that saved $$ and invest into a good reader like MarcS recommends in his post. :cssNET: :ca:
I agree, I thought to myself today.. I could have bought the K&N intake instead.. but a scan tool will prove invalueable with later tuning.

So what is this, buy an K&N and live with the codes? I mean do they eventually go away or do you have to make them go away? Whats the deal with this?

i have seen on pretty much every car you put an intake on, its going to throw a code...does that mean anything, no. maybe in some cases. I had an Injen intake on my previous car, threw a code about 2 weeks later (running rich, recognizing more air in the engine). I have told my self i wont but an intake on this car, but maximumboost.net has gauranteed NO CEL, well just see, and it doesnt throw a code, he will have my money :)

i've been driving since last friday and no code on my K&N. Nothing

i've been driving since last friday and no code on my K&N. Nothing

Must be something very tempermental for it to throw a code on some cars but not others. Apparently the Cobalts ECU/PCM is very sensitive to small variances in air flow or something, because there are no visible signs that would make the CEL come on :confused:

Instead of getting a scan tool at walmart, go to Autozone or Advance autoparts, they will usually read your code for free.

Yep, I work at Autozone and we pull codes all the time for free ;) It's a company policy, so no matter what Autozone you go to, they should be able to do it free of charge, no problem. Not sure about Advance Auto, I went there once to get a CEL pulled, and they said that they don't do them at all.

Greasy finger prints or dirt can throw a code as well if fingers or debree was all over the sensor. Something some don't know about.

I just dont wanna have to see that CEL on 24/7 for the rest of the remainder of my days with the SS. If something actually went wrong and its up already, id never notice it. Plus the CEL just plain sux.

I just dont wanna have to see that CEL on 24/7 for the rest of the remainder of my days with the SS. If something actually went wrong and its up already, id never notice it. Plus the CEL just plain sux.

I completely agree.

sneaky should I try cleaning the MAF? If so do I use alcohol and a cotton swab? (That is what I read I think). And can I get to the thing by taking off the drivers side head light? I really don't wanna have to pull the wheel off again, and the friggin splash guard.

anyone?

I had to change out the screws from the stock ones to the ones provided w/ the kit when bolting the MAF sensor to the pipe....after that my CEL turned off within 10 minutes and has been off since.

I used the provided K&N screws :( Can i get to the filter through the drivers side head light? to check the maf/filter clamp?

My K&N came in today and I am thinking maybe I will let the dealer install it and see if they get a CEL

Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?

Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?

crap. I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the friggin wheel off again... arrgh!

Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?

Remove the headlight and the black headlight bracket (4 more bolts) and you can easily access the filter and MAF.

I just checked mine after a P0171 code :(

I tightened the intake/throttle body hose clamps and checked the breather vent. Everything looked ok. :confused:

Remove the headlight and the black headlight bracket (4 more bolts) and you can easily access the filter and MAF.

I just checked mine after a P0171 code :(

I tightened the intake/throttle body hose clamps and checked the breather vent. Everything looked ok. :confused:

fewww thats great news. i really didn't feel like jacking this car up again. and pulling the friggin splash guard off again. I'll be checking everything saturday if the light stays on (which I'm sure it will.)

Yeah going in from the headlight is much easier.

Does this 171 code cause the car to go into LIMP mode after a while, or does it just have the CEL on?

Does this 171 code cause the car to go into LIMP mode after a while, or does it just have the CEL on?
The CEL will stay on until a certain number of cycles. It will then turn off but the lean condition will remain.

Will the lean condition hurt anything?

Will the lean condition hurt anything?

good question.

Will the lean condition hurt anything?
"Running lean increases emissions, increases heat, usually increases fuel economy, reduces power and increases the chances of knocking."

http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/mixture.htm

You may have trouble starting your car from a cold start also.

This is almost sounding like im not even gonna bother putting an intake on my SS. ahh

I can't honestly believe adding a CAI causes so much additional air to flow into the engine that it's actually leaning out. I think what's really happening (and I could be wrong ;)) is that the MAF is simply sensing more air entering the engine than previously did and having a shit fit because there seems to be very little margin for change when it comes to tolerances with this vehicle.

Hopefully this is the case and no one has any serious issues with their engines. I would hope if the 2.0L was built for F/I that a little additional air coming into the S/C isn't going to damage the vehicle in any way...I just hope I don't run into this when installing an intake on my 2.2.

Permafried-

I know im going to hold out for a while and see what happens. This is just to frequent for my taste buds.

If the car is running lean that means it is not running enough fuel for the amount of air entering the engine. I would think the problem is the MAF is not sensing all the air entering the new intake. If the intake is more free flowing than the stock intake, the air velocity will be lower, but air volume would be the same. With a lower air velocity the MAF is probably thinking there is less air entering the engine then there really is, so it only supplies enough fuel for the air it sensed. The lean condition is then noticed by the O2 sensors in the exhaust.

I could be wrong...I'm not a mechanic.

I think the PCM is confused. As I was erasing the CEL my buddy was noticing that the readings from both O2 sensors were reading very rich. The light has been out for 2 days now so maybe the PCM will adjust to the increased airflow. I still firmly believe that the MAF parameters are very tight and the intakes are not being accepted but I guess only time will tell. All the techs around my area tell me that the car is not running lean and don't sweat it until a new recal comes out.

I think the PCM is confused. As I was erasing the CEL my buddy was noticing that the readings from both O2 sensors were reading very rich. The light has been out for 2 days now so maybe the PCM will adjust to the increased airflow. I still firmly believe that the MAF parameters are very tight and the intakes are not being accepted but I guess only time will tell. All the techs around my area tell me that the car is not running lean and don't sweat it until a new recal comes out.

well heres to hoping a reflash will actually fix the problem. :cssNET:

when my buddy scaned my car he said the computer was adding 19% fuel to the car. So I wouldn't be beating on the car untill this problem gets fixed.
Joe

when my buddy scaned my car he said the computer was adding 19% fuel to the car. So I wouldn't be beating on the car untill this problem gets fixed.
Joe

what exactly does that mean? its adding an addition 19% fuel?

If the car is running lean that means it is not running enough fuel for the amount of air entering the engine. I would think the problem is the MAF is not sensing all the air entering the new intake. If the intake is more free flowing than the stock intake, the air velocity will be lower, but air volume would be the same. With a lower air velocity the MAF is probably thinking there is less air entering the engine then there really is, so it only supplies enough fuel for the air it sensed. The lean condition is then noticed by the O2 sensors in the exhaust.

I could be wrong...I'm not a mechanic.

BINGO! This is what I was refering to in one of my posts in K+N installed pictures thread. The MAF is not picking up the true reading of the air entering the engine. It's sensing less, therefore the PCM is adding a given amount of fuel to that reading, then the O2 sensor is picking up the unused oxygen and detecting this as a lean condition. DTC p0171 sets, CEL turns on.
Yes, the tolerances for fuel control are very tight, for emissions compliance reasons. A CEL will illuminate any time the PCM detects a condition that will cause vehicle emissions to increase 1.5 times over mandated limits set by the EPA.
Chevrolet WILL NOT post a recall, reprogram for the PCM, or anything else to fix or solve a problem that we have created by a modification. They will only address issues that may arise from their engineering.
Notice most lean codes, p0171, are setting during or right after cruising; highway driving!? The system is designed to run on the lean side at this time, hence 30mpg. The fuel control limits are walking on a tight-rope at this point, any change will cause a loss of balance.

I wonder how the stage 1 reflash will react to the same conditions set by the intake.

what exactly does that mean? its adding an addition 19% fuel?


This means the fuel trim value, do not confuse it with adding 19% more fuel, only GM knows the exact quantity/percent. Anyway, zero is center, (stociometric; 14.7:1 airfuel mixture). A positive % is that the PCM is adding fuel to the engine in relation to its programmed value, to sustain a 14.7:1 a/f mixture. A negative % is that the PCM is giving less fuel than programmed. The PCM will set a p0171 if the fuel trim value exeedes 18% for 2 minutes or more.

Modern Performance had the prototype for a while. I wonder if they had any trouble with the product.

I wonder how the stage 1 reflash will react to the same conditions set by the intake.


That is a good question. I can tell you and everyone else this, I have reprogrammed my PCM with the latest software for an "Idle Quality Issue", I have also done this for a customer of mine with a SS/SC. He had a CEL with p0171, car is totally stock, I cleared his DTC, reset fuel trims (w/ Tech2), and reflashed PCM with latest software. As for my vehicle, I have a K+N conical filter w/lower airbox cover left off, reset fuel trims and reflash.( I know many have had CEL's with airbox mods or filter changes). Neither one of us have had any CEL's since. I drive 40 miles on the highway and have observed my fuel trims at this point, long term and short term both at around 4-6%.
I'm not saying this reflash is "THE"fix, but it is something I have seemed to have done different. It may be a step in the right direction.

That is a good question. I can tell you and everyone else this, I have reprogrammed my PCM with the latest software for an "Idle Quality Issue", I have also done this for a customer of mine with a SS/SC. He had a CEL with p0171, car is totally stock, I cleared his DTC, reset fuel trims (w/ Tech2), and reflashed PCM with latest software. As for my vehicle, I have a K+N conical filter w/lower airbox cover left off, reset fuel trims and reflash.( I know many have had CEL's with airbox mods or filter changes). Neither one of us have had any CEL's since. I drive 40 miles on the highway and have observed my fuel trims at this point, long term and short term both at around 4-6%.
I'm not saying this reflash is "THE"fix, but it is something I have seemed to have done different. It may be a step in the right direction.
I am having an issue with cold starts with an irregular idle. Do you recommend me taking it in for a update of latest software? I also thred a P0171 a few weeks ago but had it reset, it was never looked at more closely.

You probably just forgot to plug a connection back in.

I am having an issue with cold starts with an irregular idle. Do you recommend me taking it in for a update of latest software? I also thred a P0171 a few weeks ago but had it reset, it was never looked at more closely.


Yes, take the car in and tell them about the Bulletin for idle quality. I can't promise this will fix the cold start-up issue, because I really did not notice a difference on mine, but lets see if it helps keep the cell out. Also, I would give you the doc # for the bulletin, but I'm out of work for an injury.(try driving with only your right hand).

Yes, take the car in and tell them about the Bulletin for idle quality. I can't promise this will fix the cold start-up issue, because I really did not notice a difference on mine, but lets see if it helps keep the cell out. Also, I would give you the doc # for the bulletin, but I'm out of work for an injury.(try driving with only your right hand).
Thanks appreciate it :thumb: I'll mention it when I bring it in probably next week.

Thanks appreciate it :thumb: I'll mention it when I bring it in probably next week.


Your welcome, I may stop at my shop by then and I'll try getting the doc# for you.

i have seen on pretty much every car you put an intake on, its going to throw a code...does that mean anything, no. maybe in some cases. I had an Injen intake on my previous car, threw a code about 2 weeks later (running rich, recognizing more air in the engine). I have told my self i wont but an intake on this car, but maximumboost.net has gauranteed NO CEL, well just see, and it doesnt throw a code, he will have my money :)

Yeah, I was hoping so! Our welder is now having a problem fabricating the sensor mounts, which is NOT good. If they're not done exactly right, the CEL light might come on (as you all know, everything has to be PERFECT on this car). Stupid cobalts...why can't they be easy? lol

Installed my K&N last night. CEL didn't turn on last night (only drove about 20 miles), but did this morning on my way to work (15 miles). I didn't unplug the battery cause people on here and .com were saying that they didn't get a code doing it that way. Guess that doesn't matter.

How tight did you guys screw the MAF screws in?

Oldbenwa

I'm wondering if i pushed the filter too far down on the intake. it has a short neck, and i think pushed it passed that. that probably doesn't matter though, just grasping at straws. i'm gonna clean the maf and clean the filter and lightly re-oil, see if that works. if not then i guess i'm stuck until a reflash.

Ok guys, yesterday I tried some things. I got to the filter/maf by taking out the front headlight (much easier then trying to take the wheel and splash guard off again). Anyway I cleaned the MAF with CRC Electrical cleaner, cleaned the k&n filter and lightly reoiled, and checked all of my connections. I didn't notice any type of oil on the maf, but I sprayed it some anyway just in case with the CRC. The filter also didn't look so bad, but I cleaned and reoiled that too. The connection between the intake and the throttle body which connects to the supercharger wasn't very good. So I secured that connection, by getting the end of the intake just inside the lip of the throttle body, and better secured the rubber boot around both. My car was bogging down at the begining of each gear, but now it is smooth and strong (I think it had to do with the intake/throttle body connection).

Unfortunately, the CEL remains. I have driven near 100 miles, and it has not gone away, nor do I expect it to. So everyone can pretty much forget the "clean your maf" fix for this, and the "clean and re-oil" the k&n fix as well. I am now 100% convinced that this is a computer issue. Although I'm still upset the cel is on, atleast I have the piece of mind that:

1. The maf is 'clean'.
2. The filter is not over oiled.
3. My connections are perfect.

We have 1 more week until sema (nov. 1-4). Lets hope GM will have a release date, that involves 2005, rather then 2006.

THE STAGE UPGRADES ARE DONE GM FRIGGIN RELEASE THEM.

-maverick

the intakes and exhaust should be released in spring, not sure about the staged upgrades

The stage upgrades are the most interesting imo are the stage upgrades, because:

1. They will hopefully open this engine up, and free it of these annoying cels.
2. They will yield the most hp per $.

I just hope they are released soon, as I fear I'll have a cel staring me in the face until then.

All its doing is throwing a lean code. Because its getting more air than the factory set. Its not that big of a deal, just get some bigger injectors.

All its doing is throwing a lean code. Because its getting more air than the factory set. Its not that big of a deal, just get some bigger injectors.

or I could just wait for gm to release the stage upgrades. Yannow, instead of guessing. I had a c++ class in college, why don't I just write my own pcm program?

All its doing is throwing a lean code. Because its getting more air than the factory set. Its not that big of a deal, just get some bigger injectors.
Well the point is the parameters are too narrow and it should be self adjusting.

I threw 2 lean codes with a stock filter also.

or I could just wait for gm to release the stage upgrades. Yannow, instead of guessing. I had a c++ class in college, why don't I just write my own pcm program?
lol good luck :thumb:

You can buy plug and play units and just ditch the GM pcm all together.

Yes, take the car in and tell them about the Bulletin for idle quality. I can't promise this will fix the cold start-up issue, because I really did not notice a difference on mine, but lets see if it helps keep the cell out. Also, I would give you the doc # for the bulletin, but I'm out of work for an injury.(try driving with only your right hand).FYI There will be no doc ID available for that update (Improve Cold Start Idle Quaility and Scan Tool Functionality- CVN#000067E6)
That update was actually released a while back for the 2005s and there even has been another release since (CVN#00002158- diagnostic enhancements for DTCs P0128 and P0603). AFAIK there is no SI/PI "paper" on these recals.

So you would have to book the car in for an MIL or drivability symptom in order for them to even look for an update in TIS. By my count there has been 3 updates for the 2005 Cobalt SS/SC.There has been no updates to the 2006 calibration as of yet.

Often the "details" of a recal is only summarized in TIS, so there IS a potential that a reflash might alter the enable/fail criteria for almost ANY DTC- so it's worth a try (in the case of the P0171) IMO. Real problem will be convincing them to do the reflash to repair a drivability problem for a car with a CAI under warranty. My advice would be to be willing to even PAY for the reflash, to make sure it gets done. (once they see that the available reflashes doctor a number of "issues" they will likely put it through as a warranty claim- easier and wont bite them in the ass if you decide to escalate the claim)

The basic expectation is:
If GM released an "emission-related" calibration update for the Cobalt, this reprogramming event should be covered for 8 years/80,000 miles (130,000 km).
However If GM released the recal as a "driveability-related" update (for example, to eliminate a hesitation) this reprogramming event would be covered for 3 years/36,000 miles (60,000 km)- after that it's customer pay!

If they do a reflash, dont forget to tell them to record your exisiting Oil Life Index prior to the reflash so it can be manually entered with the TECH2 afterwards (it gets "wiped" during a reflash) otherwise you will have to get them to replace the oil 3000 miles (5000km) from the mileage recorded since your last change.

JMO
HTH
WOT

Good info, thank you! :-D

Actually there IS a GM site where you can check your own calibration IDs and compare them to what shows up on a scan tool.

http://calid.gm.com
-Put your VIN in there
-Select PCM/VCM as controller type
-Select "Normal" Programming type
NEXT>

It can take a while but this will eventually show you the calibration history. The first number in the "tree" would usually be the production calibration and any additional part numbers shown are "updates". If a bulletin is involved it will usually list the TSB number.
Typically the techncian can only reflash you with the LATEST calibration (furthest down the tree)
The summary screens can then be printed out and taken into the dealership as assistance in getting the updates.
Good Luck
WopOnTour

Actually there IS a GM site where you can check your own calibration IDs and compare them to what shows up on a scan tool.

http://calid.gm.com
-Put your VIN in there
-Select PCM/VCM as controller type
-Select "Normal" Programming type
NEXT>

It can take a while but this will eventually show you the calibration history. The first number in the "tree" would usually be the production calibration and any additional part numbers shown are "updates". If a bulletin is involved it will usually list the TSB number.
Typically the techncian can only reflash you with the LATEST calibration (furthest down the tree)
The summary screens can then be printed out and taken into the dealership as assistance in getting the updates.
Good Luck
WopOnTour
Awesome resource, thanks again! :thumb:

FYI There will be no doc ID available for that update (Improve Cold Start Idle Quaility and Scan Tool Functionality- CVN#000067E6)
That update was actually released a while back for the 2005s and there even has been another release since (CVN#00002158- diagnostic enhancements for DTCs P0128 and P0603). AFAIK there is no SI/PI "paper" on these recals.

So you would have to book the car in for an MIL or drivability symptom in order for them to even look for an update in TIS. By my count there has been 3 updates for the 2005 Cobalt SS/SC.There has been no updates to the 2006 calibration as of yet.

Often the "details" of a recal is only summarized in TIS, so there IS a potential that a reflash might alter the enable/fail criteria for almost ANY DTC- so it's worth a try (in the case of the P0171) IMO. Real problem will be convincing them to do the reflash to repair a drivability problem for a car with a CAI under warranty. My advice would be to be willing to even PAY for the reflash, to make sure it gets done. (once they see that the available reflashes doctor a number of "issues" they will likely put it through as a warranty claim- easier and wont bite them in the ass if you decide to escalate the claim)

The basic expectation is:
If GM released an "emission-related" calibration update for the Cobalt, this reprogramming event should be covered for 8 years/80,000 miles (130,000 km).
However If GM released the recal as a "driveability-related" update (for example, to eliminate a hesitation) this reprogramming event would be covered for 3 years/36,000 miles (60,000 km)- after that it's customer pay!

If they do a reflash, dont forget to tell them to record your exisiting Oil Life Index prior to the reflash so it can be manually entered with the TECH2 afterwards (it gets "wiped" during a reflash) otherwise you will have to get them to replace the oil 3000 miles (5000km) from the mileage recorded since your last change.

JMO
HTH
WOT


I was trying to look more into this, but been out of work for the past week. Did call and have a freind look in SI and he could not find any bulletins/PI's. I know they did exist at some point. I did not have him check into TIS though, but its good to know about the latest updates. Because of the reason that some parameters not listed may be effected I suggested the reflash, it may/maynot help. Just thought it was something to look into.

Thanx WopOnTour!!!

Actually there IS a GM site where you can check your own calibration IDs and compare them to what shows up on a scan tool.

http://calid.gm.com
-Put your VIN in there
-Select PCM/VCM as controller type
-Select "Normal" Programming type
NEXT>

It can take a while but this will eventually show you the calibration history. The first number in the "tree" would usually be the production calibration and any additional part numbers shown are "updates". If a bulletin is involved it will usually list the TSB number.
Typically the techncian can only reflash you with the LATEST calibration (furthest down the tree)
The summary screens can then be printed out and taken into the dealership as assistance in getting the updates.
Good Luck
WopOnTour

WopOnTour - For some reason I can't get this to work on my computer. I have Broadband and You did say it could take a while but I left it for about a half hour and it was still going.
Could you halp a brotha out on this one ? -NightmareSS-

WopOnTour - For some reason I can't get this to work on my computer. I have Broadband and You did say it could take a while but I left it for about a half hour and it was still going.
Could you halp a brotha out on this one ? -NightmareSS-
I just tried it again to see if it was still up. It worked fine for me.

Did you enter your VIN in correctly?

I just tried it again to see if it was still up. It worked fine for me.

Did you enter your VIN in correctly?

Yeppers. Just tried it again and same thing. :rolleyes:

I dunno, it might need Java or something, or are you using Mozilla /Firefox maybe??
WOT

Well I just removed my MAF sensor and gave it a liberal shot of CRC a couple times. Let it dry and shot it again. I reinstalled the MAF, I will let everyone know if I get a CEL again. I have been getting them 2-3 times a day all P0171.

Yeppers. Just tried it again and same thing. :rolleyes:

popup blockers will screw with it.

Thanx for the site WOP. It definetly helps if you have some info when you go to the dealer otherwise they can just say oh there is no update your crazy. :-D

Well I just removed my MAF sensor and gave it a liberal shot of CRC a couple times. Let it dry and shot it again. I reinstalled the MAF, I will let everyone know if I get a CEL again. I have been getting them 2-3 times a day all P0171.
2-3 times a day? wow.

Exhondaman has the AEM prototype and has never had a CEL with it. Even before the psi-fi kit.

My car has these updates for the OS so far:


New calibration with diagnostic enhancements for DTCs P0128 and P0603.
New calibration to improve cold start idle quality and scan tool functionality
New calibration to ensure proper module communication.
Operating System software

What is the p0128 and p0603 code?


By the way i'm using FireFox and the website works fine and fast. Results in 30sec. Awesome website :cssNET:

My car has these updates for the OS so far:


New calibration with diagnostic enhancements for DTCs P0128 and P0603.
New calibration to improve cold start idle quality and scan tool functionality
New calibration to ensure proper module communication.
Operating System software

What is the p0128 and p0603 code?


By the way i'm using FireFox and the website works fine and fast. Results in 30sec. Awesome website :cssNET:
P0128 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature ECM
P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset ECM

Thanks MarcS... Will the latest software be the same software that the Stage Upgrade comes with or would it be different than an SS without the Stage Upgrade?

popup blockers will screw with it.

Thanx for the site WOP. It definetly helps if you have some info when you go to the dealer otherwise they can just say oh there is no update your crazy. :-D

Thats what I was figuring. I disabled all my pop up blockers but for somerason it kept blocking it. I don't know. Marc helped me out though on this one. Thanks Again Marc ! :cssNET:

does anyknow if k&n are making any comments about the possible causes or any attempts to suggest what to do, sorry for the redirect

Installed my Intake on Sunday and here's my experience so far with the CEL light and the K&N intake.

Sunday:
I disconnected the battery for the entire duration of install (about 2hrs)
Reconnected and started the car up and let idle for a couple mins then took it for a drive.
CEL was immediatly on from initial key to run position and starting. I then started and stopped the car 3 different times (had heard the memory reset clears after 3 cycles), but that didn't do anything. Parked the car for the night

Monday:
Had a regular day of work then a some after work fun and then home. All in all it was about 250 miles that day with a total of 3 trips. CEL light was on the whole day. Parked the car over night.

Tuesday:
Started the car CEL was still on, then about halfway to work (15 miles) the CEL goes off and has been off ever since!

I've done another 5 trips and ~100 miles on the car and the CEL is still off.
I'll let everyone know if it comes back on, but as of right now I'm keeping :fingers crossed:

Well I just removed my MAF sensor and gave it a liberal shot of CRC a couple times. Let it dry and shot it again. I reinstalled the MAF, I will let everyone know if I get a CEL again. I have been getting them 2-3 times a day all P0171.


Still get the P0171 error all the time :(

Not sure what else to check.