Im a very competant engineer/mechanic (on the side), BUT for the simple life I would like to get a "crate" engine specced to about 300bhp fully built and setup by a builder/tuner in the US and then shipped to the UK...

I would simply get the GM supercharger sent over and a few other bits from the build book but Im too lazy and also the car is used everyday so cant have it off the road for more than a weekend at a time.

Any ideas? (I tried CED but they kinda missed my point a bit by offering a std engine)

 

What are you putting the motor in?

Also the tech articles here, tell you step by setep to do exactly what you want. Part numbers and all.
http://www.gmperformancedivision.com..._articles.aspx
Scroll down to the bottom for the 300+ HP build up.


More here
http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...61-Build-Book/



.

 

Ive read that book... and appreciate all the parts are obtainable and cheap. But I want someone who knows what they are doing to build/setup an engine for me (which I cant get in the UK for a sensible price....)

the standard 2.2 lives in the back of this http://picasaweb.google.com/stuart.l...g/Vx220Similar

 

I figured it was some thing like that, I was hopeing it wasn't going to be an Astra hatch.

Side note, I've used those Hankooks for Autocross, ok tire they hold up, but better grip from the BFGoodrich RE01's and the Falken Azeis 615's

 

So you want a L61 that is capable of 300bhp? How are you going to be making that power. NA or FI?

EDIT: Also, that car is damn secksi. Where can i get one?

 

FI S/C possibly.... or is it drop down to a 2.0 engine and go from that? as that means I read the book wrong lol.


the hankooks are good for the commuting milage I do and the odd track day... only issue is that track days cook the rubber down so in the went they are rock ahrd and scary till they get scrubbed back.

 

Really all you need is this:

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1695C195.aspx

plus this:

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1540C196.aspx

and this:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1724C196.aspx

With the VX's short and open exhaust you should be right near 300, and the stage 3 supports nitrous control.

I would think the biggest problem youre going to run into though is cooling.

 

These guys are doing an engine for me and they do crate engines. Take a look http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/...catName=JP0914

 

yeah cooling will become an issue, Chargecooling should help somewhat.

There are guys running near 300bhp with the Z20LET engine (head is the other way round hence the turbo fits) and they manage the heat well enough


hmmmm that route looks good bar the chore of it being a bare lump.. unless the alternator and everything else fits the 2.0 engine. Nice and cheap too as its Ł5K from a uk supplier for cavvy supercharger conversion (or $10K to you lol)

 

Whats in te VX now 1.8L?

All US domestic market available engines:

http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en...2007/07car.htm



LSJ 2.0L S/C


LK9 2.0L Turbo


L61 2.2L N/A

 

an L61

 

Then everything should be a bolt up affair

 

whats to stop me from getting the cavvy S/C kit and then those two stage kits (that are for the 2.0) and running that?

Ill be on standalone management anyway since we have ETB's here.

 

If your looking for an easy 300bhp SC'ed(roughly 250-270whp), id build something like this:

Weisco 10:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
Cometic Gasket
ARP Studs
Used Eaton M62
2.8" Pulley w/ 60lb injectors
Used LSJ Intake Manifold w/ Dual pass plate.
Heat Exchanger setup to fit your cars engine bay.

That setup right there should get you well over 250whp having the higher displacement and compression then the LSJ. Keeping the pulley size to either 2.8 or 2.9 will keep the heat down a bit and shouldnt require anything more then a dual-pass plate.

 

The S/C kit should work just fine, but the compression will be too high for a stage 2 kit, too much boost+detonation=new motor

The reason they dont work on the cobalts/ions they went to drive by wire throttlebodies

 

uhm.... Stage 2 pulley(3.0) is NOT too big for a 10:1. a .5 jump isnt going to increase detonation as drastic as that. You will need to adjust timing more and run the highest octane pump gas you can find, but shouldnt have problems, let alone blow your motor that easily.

 

i dunno why you guys are so focused on high compression boosted cars.

I like to run my car on pump gas, not race fuel.

 

Im just giving an example of an easy way to get to his power goal with a m62. 3.0 pulley with a 10:1 CR would get him to his power goal on the L61 fairly easy.

 

Well thats true in the sence eurpoe has higher octane fuel to begin with. You probaly tune for 99-RON or 102-RON fuels. And witht eh standalones that were stated before, yea i could see it.

 

our rubbish fuel is 95ron and then super is 97ron and there are a few 99ron suppliers...

but hey the better ron ratings are far outweighed by the price being not far off 4 times that of your fuel.

Ill have a looksee at the method posted I did want a simple engine swap route as it would save time and if it did eat itself then could easily put the stock engine back in while repairing the fun one.

 

Honestly throwing in pistons/rods and putting a used Eaton M62 on there would take you a weekend to do. Tuning may take you a couple days or so but shouldnt be too bad.

 

we have the following available for very good price

2.2 ecotec engine, 0kms pulled out of car for another swap
2.2 tranny fully crated
2.2 ecm, wiring harnesses and computers shifter cables, engine mounts ect ect
2.2 GM Supercharger kit 0kms comes complete with everything you need to install

all of this stuff just sitting here waitin for a swap or purchase

best offer....

keith@theautodreamgroup.com

thanks