Well I figured I would shoot a few pics of the new rotors and pads I recieved.. They are not installed yet... Should be Tues when I get them on. Ill add additional installed pics at that time. My whole thing since I got the SS was to only spend money to make it faster.. well I think BullDog71ss cursed me... he pointed out that his rotors were going bad a few weeks ago. Since then I began to notice some vibration while braking that has gotten progressively worse. So instead of trying to get the dealer to buy me new brakes (or buying them myself from the dealer way too much $$$$ ) I figured I would get these and see how they do...

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/6899/allrotors6pa.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/6685/frontrotors1nz.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/3292/rearrotors4rr.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

So those are the stock ones that have been drilled and slotted?

So those are the stock ones that have been drilled and slotted?

Stock replacements ya... Sorry forgot that in original post...
NOT A BIG BRAKE KIT.... Too much $$$$ ! :lol:

Those are zinc plated right? at least they won't flake away and rust.

Mine are starting to pulse also...

Where did you get them and how much $$??

Im definently going to get a set...


Jeff
2005 SS/SC
Red/red inserts
sunroof
front airdam grill - done
center console arm rest - done
rear bowtie removed - done
raptor shift light - done
K & N typhoon CAI code thrower - done
Stage II - soon as I can get one
Borla exhaust or GMPP exhaust - soon
drilled/slotted brake rotors - soon

:cssNET:

I bought them from Uneek one of our supporting vendors.
They were $250 shipped to AZ (not sure where uneek is located)..

Hey guys, save yourselves some money. I had the wobbly/pulsing feeling when I braked in my Cavy. I know at Just Brakes for around $99 they will do their "four wheel friction re-line." Basically, they inspect everything and fix whatever's wrong with your brakes; including machining the rotors to get rid of that pulsing. I had it done and didn't regret it!

Something else you may want to note; the did mention that if any vehicle comes in with anything other than the factory brake set up, they wouldn't fix it. Food for thought.

Nice kit btw! :beer:

Looz

if you drive it like a racer you will be sorry for getting drilled. they will develop stress cracks around the holes rather quickly...not to mention you only get 65-75% braking surface. should have got slotted only...and i got quiet stop ceramic pads, well worth the $150

Well I guess ill find out. If they last more then 7k miles then Ill be happy. :lol:

if you drive it like a racer you will be sorry for getting drilled. they will develop stress cracks around the holes rather quickly...not to mention you only get 65-75% braking surface. should have got slotted only...and i got quiet stop ceramic pads, well worth the $150

http://www.webolutionary.com/smilies/lmfao.gif lmao. . . .I love it when people post automotive myths. Please post some numbers that support your claims.

Two of my friends and myself have had drilled/slotted rotors on for over 2 years now. No stress cracking or warping, and we drive our cars like we stole them!

Please read this before you comment:

While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years many people have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them.

Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many people believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.

A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.

Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger, (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.

Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out.

So many ridiculous myths about brakes. Thank you for dispelling some of them Uneek.

Also, the reason why our stock rotors are dying off at the 7,000 mile mark is because of GM's horrid decision in brake pads. They matched a pad to a rotor that's harder than the damn rotor! Foolish. I know they did this so people will go back and buy new rotors from GM for $102 per corner every 7,000 miles. The way to fix this is to just get a new set of softer pads. If your rotors are already torn up, then you're SOL as GM will not replace the rotors under warrenty...asshats.

Nice setup your got there Jay, they look awesome and I an't wait to see them on your car dude. I'll probably be ording from Uneek as well depending on how well they work out for you.

Very nice, I always like the look of a slotted and drilled rotor behind the wheels

Arent GM stock rotors crap? I cant wait to warp mine and get a kit. I braked hard twice already and I think I crapped them.

they die at 7K miles????? um.............. I drive all day for my job in my cobalt ss/sc and I just put 13K miles on miles on my car and when I took it to GM to get the 12k miles mini tune up they said the brakes where only 25% worn down. I do want to get aftermarket rotors and brakes but I have to say that my stock ones are working perfectly fine. :cssNET:

dam dude i'm about about 10.5k miles and I'm on my 3rd set of roters! tyhe pads are fine tho...but thats due to the fast that our pads are the 2nd hardist after the vets pads and our roters are SHIT! thank god for warentie tho...i'd be pissed if i would of had to pay for them each time.

any installed pics?

my brakes feel warped i think...booo does Uneek got anything for non ss

I have not had any pulsing or problems with my brakes. I'm going on 12k miles.

dam dude i'm about about 10.5k miles and I'm on my 3rd set of roters! tyhe pads are fine tho...but thats due to the fast that our pads are the 2nd hardist after the vets pads and our roters are SHIT! thank god for warentie tho...i'd be pissed if i would of had to pay for them each time.

So GM honored the warrenty on your rotors??

Those cock suckers at Brown&Brown said that GM told them they would NOT do a warrenty. Goddammit I'm tired of GM's BS!

I bought them from Uneek one of our supporting vendors.
They were $250 shipped to AZ (not sure where uneek is located)..
250 for the kit and it came with matching pads??????????? dude that is such a freaking good deal ... now I know my brakes are still good but OMFG i am soooooo interested in a set now ... maybe an xmas gift is on the horizon ^^

So GM honored the warrenty on your rotors??

Those cock suckers at Brown&Brown said that GM told them they would NOT do a warrenty. Goddammit I'm tired of GM's BS!
i could be wrong but I think there was a road hazzard warrenty or something that would cover this stuff but naturally a dealer would not mention such a treasure ... I hear alot of crap from brown and brown though

So GM honored the warrenty on your rotors??

Those cock suckers at Brown&Brown said that GM told them they would NOT do a warrenty. Goddammit I'm tired of GM's BS!

Someone is not being very honest with you. Your rotors are covered under warranty for pulsation, but not for wear,(there is a difference). If your brakes wear out in 15K miles because of alot of stop and go driving and the rotors are found under spec. they will not be warranted. But, if the rotors are warped and causing a pulsation they would be covered(at least at my shop), there is a warranty Form that must be filled out by the Tech. with the measurements of the rotors and the action taken to fix the problem. Resurface or replacement. GM is fully aware of this problem and has found it is most common in the northeast US. (?). Do not blame GM for not covering you rotors, this sounds like the dealers choice to not cover them.

Installed pics the weekend hopefully... Ive been lazy :lol:

They feel pretty good..... Still breaking them in.... Peddle was a little mushy for a couple days but has now firmed right up... and NO MORE PULSATION... YAY ! :#one:
They look pretty nice behind the front wheels... had a little prob at first... i put the rotors on backwards (from right to left) :red:

ExHondaMan, do you think you could test a "stopping distance" from stock?

ExHondaMan, do you think you could test a "stopping distance" from stock?

I probably could of if I had tested the stock units... but I did not... and i dont really want to put them back on just for the purpose of the test. :red:
It doesnt really seem to stop any better... but I have not really gotten hard on them yet... no need to (due to traffic) and Im trying to take it easy on them for awhile.
I just didnt want to hassle with the dealer to get them replaced or turned... and at the price for the set w/ pads it was a good deal... they look pretty nice... :cssNET:

I had the dealer replace the rotors twice on my 2001 Cavalier because of the warping. Unfortunately, GM does use a pad that's harder than the rotor itself, the only way to fix this is to get some softer pads, better rotors, or both (making sure they'll work well together).

I probably could of if I had tested the stock units... but I did not... and i dont really want to put them back on just for the purpose of the test. :red:
It doesnt really seem to stop any better... but I have not really gotten hard on them yet... no need to (due to traffic) and Im trying to take it easy on them for awhile.
I just didnt want to hassle with the dealer to get them replaced or turned... and at the price for the set w/ pads it was a good deal... they look pretty nice... :cssNET:

It won't (shouldn't) stop any faster if they are the same diameter adn width. Just more efficiently. Maybe a foot or two better stopping from 60mph.

Don't "test" the rotors out yet. You have to break them in gently for the first couple hundred miles in order to avoid warping. So don't go doing a hard stop test just yet.

The mussy pedal feeling at the beggining was normal because the pads were wearing off the excess zinc where the pads meet the rotors.

Just to let you all know, ExHondaMan got a promo price on the rotors/pads set because he is the first on the site to get the rotors and post pics for me. However don't worry the regular price wont be much higher. . . . .maybe if a get a GB going I could offer them at the same price though. . . .hmm something to think about. . . .

NOTE:
I do also carry rotors/pads for any year make and model vehicle. Just pm me what you want.

if you drive it like a racer you will be sorry for getting drilled. they will develop stress cracks around the holes rather quickly...not to mention you only get 65-75% braking surface. should have got slotted only...and i got quiet stop ceramic pads, well worth the $150


This is just a myth. I have had cross drilled rotors on my vette for 2 years now. They are the best ever. The pads wear more evenly and there is no fade. :cssNET:

unfortunately, uneek, we have been reading different literature...however, my claims are also based on personal testimony. yes, there may be ways to cross-drill a rotor so as to not weaken it. however, that technology is not used all the time, and can not be relied upon...unless you are ready to spend the big money.

cross drilling was started in the 50's or so because of the type of pads used back then. many released a gas when hot that prevented the pad from reaching the rotor. cross-drilling was designed to let these gasses escape, but have never been proven to release heat. on the contrary...less braking surface means more time spent on the brakes...means more heat. you can ask any racing professional, they will tell you never to run 2 or more 1/4 miles at speeds near 130 on 1 set of cross-drilled rotors.

slotted-only rotors are best for extreme driving conditions. they constantly clean the pad while braking, while maintaining 95% of surface on average. making your braking system up to 33% more efficient, and requiring less time on the pedal....less heat. that is why they last the longest for our type of application.

not talking smack on cross-drilled brakes. yes, some of the most advanced holes may be very reliable...but they do NOT cool the pad or the rotor. they do, however, LOOK COOL. that is why they are still made today...kinda like racing stripes, they really mean nothing today but back in the old days you wanted everyone to see it on your car. do racing stripes give you any advantage?