I was thinking this with myself and I really just wanted to know.

 

well are you talking without breaking axles? i dont think anyone has gone that far yet... really.. i think everyone has gone F/I lol

 

it's gonna cost ya but I think with the chevy build book you can get pretty far before you need forced induction to make serious power.

 

^^exactly....

 

I know you would need forced induction to get the power. Where could I find the build book at?

 

google it


your biggest prob is gonna me the $$$$$ cause you're gonna be replacing a LOT of stock internals. Pistons...CrankShaft..Connecting Rods...Clutch.. (are you auto or manual?) flywheel, etc. etc. etc... you know? if you're looking for power and got lotsa moola tho...

 

gm's web site... maybe at autozone pepboys but deffinatly at gm's website/..

 

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...L61-Build-Book

 

No, no I'm not looking to do it I was just wondeing
Thanks

 

I might be intrested in doing it.. i want my car to be a fast auto lol

 

I'll give you 170-180whp with a hell of an N/A build on a normal persons budget

200whp if you're a baller and can go standalone with all quality components.

 

I've seen a cavalier with an N/A Eco run 13.02.... It all depends on how much you are willing to spend. He's running forged everything and high compression with stand alone managment. I dunno how much HP he actually puts out but I'm sure it's damn high to be running low 13's

 

i'm going to go a different route and say that this question doesn't make sense. it's too vague. how much power can your car have without forced induction? depends entirely on one thing. how much money you have. you want to go ape ****, and go fully built, it can have a crazy amount of power.

 

i read the whole build book, and from what i got out of the first section is that the 2.2L cavy supercharged system will work on the cobalt EXCEPT for the re-flash (obviously). But the rest of the parts do fit. Correct me if i am wrong.

 

and the throttle body setup. our cars are throttle by wire, the old cavys were throttle by cable.

also just letting u know that our fuel systems are returnless. the cavys had a fuel return system

and basically, unless ur using an SMT-6 or SMT-7 for tuneing, u mine as well give up now because there is no tuneing software besides SCT but thats only if u buy the 4k turbo kit

 

oh i know im fully aware of that, but im just going against the grain of what everyone else is saying and saying that i could physically bolt up but you would have to go standalone, and modify few minor details. but it would be an alternative to going with a 4k turbo kit, or even trying to scavenge all the supercharger parts and risk not getting some of them.

 

With the right componenets and a metric ass ton of money. My bet is mid 300 at the motor. Keep in mind Really high compression, Race Gas, Fully built block, head, aggressive cams, lightened parts, knife edged crank, lightweight flywheel, etc. It can be done but noone is willig to drop the cash to prove it that i've seen.
With just bolt on parts N/A, probably cost about 4-5k, bettin about 210-230. The LT has about a 13.5% drivetrain loss. So your lookin at about 180-200 at the wheels.

 

with a 2.4L inlet, some fun spec cams, a bit of head work, a horrible "remap" (tune to you guys) weve seen 220bhp (at the fly) here.

My source implies the 2.4L inlet can only flow air to 220bhp (fly) so thats the current limiting item.

 

what are you guys using as a tuning solution there? standalone?

 

so wait....above 22bhp and you need to replace the stock intake manifold on the 2.4? with what? the GM race intake? or a custom fabbed one?

 

some people are getting remaps (your tuning) but personally I think that whole process is crap unless its done with GM calibration tools (I work in the ecu industry so know a simple tweek of a couple of parameters WONT be the final answer)

Personally I'm going to force the stock ecu to do what I want, and if it wont then I'll throw standalone on and a seperate ETB driver.

 

so they're running a piggyback for tuning, which one(s)?

 

Whoever said you have to replace the crank is high on something. If you want to go with a high HP N/A 2.2 you need to rev it. And since your going into the engine to replace the cams/valves/springs, you might as well throw in some 11:1 CR Pistons. You dont have to replace the rods because i doubt your gonna hit over 300hp, which they are good for. You may want to replace them just incase if your going to be reving past 7500rpms. Which i would go to at least 8k using a standalone.

Heres how i would make a good 200++whp NA 2.2:

Standalone
11:1 or higher CR Pistons
MAYBE rods
Titanium valvetrain w/ headwork
Stage 2 or 3 NA Cams.(Refering to Comp Cams' stages)
Neutral Balance Shafts
Light weight flywheel
8000 - 8500rpm redline
Stage 1 clutch(Most stage 1's increase clamp by ~30-50% over stock. Thats ~210-240 lb/tq)

 

^ you basically hit my build plans on the head.

 

How Big is your wallet? is the real question.