I recently went to the track with my 2007 Cobalt SS.

After 16 runs, my best time was 14.17 seconds, at 105 miles per hour.

I have no doubt I can get this into the 13 second range with only a few mods.

Mods/tweaks so far...

• GM Stage 2.
• Perfect tire pressure.
• Pulled fuse on 'daytime running lamp'. This is a required safety feature in Canada, and keeps the front headlights on all the time.
• Weight removal:
  - Pulled floor mats.
  - Removed rear seat head rests.
  - Removed huge and unbelievably heavy subwoofer from trunk.
  - Removed spare tire and jack.

What I need to do to hit 13 second range...

• Have a near-empty fuel tank. I was 3/4 full, and was therefore pulling an extra 30 litres down the track. This added an extra 50 pounds of weight.
  
• Use better fuel. I have tried 110 octane unleaded racing fuel in the past and it makes a huge difference. GM has assured me in writing that 110 octane fuel will NOT void my warranty. GM says the fuel “must be at least 91 octane”, but will not state a maximum octane rating. You need to run this fuel for at last a hundred miles to reset the fuel sensors to the higher octane before you will notice any difference.
  
• Install lighter wheel rims. I recently purchased 4 stock GM rims to use with my snow tires. They were WAY lighter than the hot-looking Cobalt rims that came with my summer tires. I could probably trim an extra 30 pounds by using these lighter rims with my summer tires.
  
• Remove rear spoiler. My Cobalt came with a trunk spoiler pre-installed. I tried to order it without one but that wasn’t an option. The thing weighs A LOT, and totally blocks the view out the rear window.
• Install GM Extrude Honed Manifold. I can have one installed by my dealer for about $500.00. What I cannot install yet is a cold air intake. GM told me if I install a CAI, and DO blow my engine, they will not repair it under warranty.

The video link below was not my best run, but does show how the Cobalt can fly. It also shows that—off the line—you have to be SO careful with the throttle or the front end will bang up and down and you’ll go nowhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHMxTDIplu0

Happy Holidays!

 

Have you considered DR's or slicks? It seems to me with a little more traction you would have to make zero changes besides new tires and you'd be in the 13's.

 

only way a cai can ruin your warranty is if you suck water up it to the engine. They have to proove that the intake is what caused your engine to blow but you are gunna need like 60lb injectors with a 2.6 pully with a hell of a tune to reach 13s oh and supporting cooling mods

 

With a 105 mph trap , your short time must be killin you. Too bad our cars are so bad out of the hole , traction mods would help you break in the 13's i'd bet.


I disagree, their are a bunch of people in the 13's with 2.9's. It all depends on your elavation and air.

 

I'd say do the GMPP exhaust with the manifold...

 

maybe look into a lighter hood..trunk..shed a few lbs there

 

your kidding right? hahaha a 2.6 and 60's to get into the 13's. The guy just ran a 14.17 with stage 2 lol. Get the GM manifold and the GM catback. Also with all the weight removed you should be able to creep into the 13's very easily.

 

is that at cayuga?
check out ontariocobaltclub.com

 

If u trapped 105 , as your car sits its capable of going well into the 13's , your 14 sec et just reflects how the car is not getting off the line very well . I think before you add anymore power mods you should concentrate on hooking the car up . IMO your next money spent on the car should be some motor and trans mounts , a couple spare 16" wheels and some 26x9.5x16 hoosier QTP's for the track . Your mph will likely go down a bit because your hooking up and the slicks have a higher rolling resistence , but theres ur 13 sec. ET . Then go and add more power mods .

 

X2!!!!

 

*sigh* i hate altitude

 

wait, so you're calling your stage 2 cobalt with weight reduction "almost stock"?

also, using 110 octane is hurting your performance, unless you are tuned to take advantage of it.

 

Def. get a tune for that 110 octane.

 

passenger seat is pretty easy to take out as well, thats almost 40 lbs by itself. 110 octane isn't worth the price for the gain on an untuned car, stick with 91 or 93 if you can get it, 94 is even sold around here. Good luck.

 

not if its knocking on the stage 2 tune on pump gas. ive seen plenty of knock on my stage 2 tune, and it stops if you put in 105 or so.

and i agree, your stage 2 car is not a stock cobalt

 

just using higher octane that you're supposed to won't help you out any. that's an old ricer myth. higher octane = harder to ignite. and if you're not set up for it, with different timing and the ability to ignite it properly, it's probably hurting your performance. i wouldn't be surprised if you ran better times using 93.

even still, 110 is a little excessive for a stage 2 tune.

 

it suppresses knock though. IF he is knocking on pump gas then it is likely the 110 is helping a tad

agreed, i was running 105 with as much timing as the LSJ likes and getting 0 knock

 

91 to 94 will make a difference on Stage 2 no doubt in my mind.

94 to higher? doubt its gonna do much at all.

injectors, pully, belt, tune, gutted interior isnt even close to stock chief.

and at a 105 trap, you should be in the low 13s.
get some traction assist mods, and work on your driving before you add any more power.

 

yea, if you're getting knock you should use higher. you ran better because you changed your timing, and were getting knock. i guess without knowing if he was getting any knock, there's really no way to say what gas he should be using.

either way, 110 is still too much i would think.

 

without a tune, most definately

 

i realize why i ran better haha. all i was saying is that if he is getting some knock using a tad higher octane is gonna help him, which you agreed too, so we are good

 

yea, i think we're arguing the same point.

not to sidebust, but if you didn't see in that sweet 16 thread i wrote out an apology towards you. i think there was a misunderstanding and just wanted to let you know that i didn't mean anything towards you or where you live.

 

What is 60FT,
?

 

in drag racing, there are points along the 1/4 mile at which your time and speed are clocked.

your 60ft, is how long it took your car to get 60 feet down the track

this number is usually extremely important, as it gives a good indication of how well you launched your car.

considering that it often takes over 2 seconds to travel the first 60ft,
and at times only another 10-12 seconds to travel another 1200 ft, as you can see, the 60ft is very important.

a common phrase you will hear, is that races are won in the first 60ft

 

No offense to anyone as we all have our preferences .....but gutting an interior of a 13 second street car is completely pointless . If u test back to back , I think you will see it gives u nothing worth the effort . Maaaybe a couple hundreths at best .