Help with my 1 step cooler plugs...slower acceleration....
Help with my 1 step cooler plugs...slower acceleration....
k, guys here's the scenario: I recently put the NGK iridium 1 step cooler plugs in, and I didn't even bother to check the gap on them bc most ppl suggested not re gapping for fear that the tips would break on them.......long story short, my car has seemed to have gotten slower with its acceleration........I read tonight that most ppl are switching back to stock plugs and actually are having better results...here's the link: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=91300&page=3
my questions are: Should I go back to stock plugs or should I take the NGK's out and re gap them to a smaller gap then w/e they came at? I run a GM Stage 2 with 2.85" pulley and on cobalt-addiction's site they say gap them at .40; my other question is; what gap do these plugs come gapped at before you've gapped them? (I assumed .45 since that's the stock recommended LSJ gap).....Should I go gap them at .40? smaller? or stock plugs?
bump....
my questions are: Should I go back to stock plugs or should I take the NGK's out and re gap them to a smaller gap then w/e they came at? I run a GM Stage 2 with 2.85" pulley and on cobalt-addiction's site they say gap them at .40; my other question is; what gap do these plugs come gapped at before you've gapped them? (I assumed .45 since that's the stock recommended LSJ gap).....Should I go gap them at .40? smaller? or stock plugs?
bump....
Last edited by lnf08ecotec; Jan 7, 2008 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
whoever said not to gap them because you'll break the tips doesn't know what they're talking about, and don't take advice from them anymore. modern spark plugs are pretty sturdy, and unless you get a defective one, you'll be fine. when i changed my gf's plugs, to get the right gap i took the plug and slammed it on the ground to make it tighter.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
whoever said not to gap them because you'll break the tips doesn't know what they're talking about, and don't take advice from them anymore. modern spark plugs are pretty sturdy, and unless you get a defective one, you'll be fine. when i changed my gf's plugs, to get the right gap i took the plug and slammed it on the ground to make it tighter.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
the recommended stock gap is garbage. do not gap any plugs for these cars over .040
you should not notice any difference in performance when switching to a cooler plug. if anything it should run just a bit smoother with a brand new clean plug.
pull them and check the gap. they should be around .037 or .038 for your mods. just be careful not to break the ceramic/iridium in the center. only move the ground prong.
you should not notice any difference in performance when switching to a cooler plug. if anything it should run just a bit smoother with a brand new clean plug.
pull them and check the gap. they should be around .037 or .038 for your mods. just be careful not to break the ceramic/iridium in the center. only move the ground prong.
whoever said not to gap them because you'll break the tips doesn't know what they're talking about, and don't take advice from them anymore. modern spark plugs are pretty sturdy, and unless you get a defective one, you'll be fine. when i changed my gf's plugs, to get the right gap i took the plug and slammed it on the ground to make it tighter.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
but if you're noticing a loss in performance, it's the gap, not the plugs. mess with the gap a little bit and you'll get it right.
Here's the link:
http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=490&catid=143
I do agree that they can be gapped though, just have to be careful...I have broken the tips of iridium plugs before.......
k, I'll try .38 tomorrow........I'm thinking that the gap is too big...but anyone want to chime in about the ppl that think the stock NGK's are better?
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Last edited by lnf08ecotec; Jan 7, 2008 at 01:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yeah i'll chime in about the stock plugs. IMO platinums have no business a modded ss/sc. i ran stock plugs with gm stage 2 for a while and when i pulled them to put the colder ones in, they were chipped, had discolored ceramic around the electrode. looked like they had seen some stupid cylinder temps.
yeah i'll chime in about the stock plugs. IMO platinums have no business a modded ss/sc. i ran stock plugs with gm stage 2 for a while and when i pulled them to put the colder ones in, they were chipped, had discolored ceramic around the electrode. looked like they had seen some stupid cylinder temps.
I wouldn't use the iridiums they actually retain the heat too well!
USE COPPER PLUGS....
NGK BKR7E's I have them gapped at .036" runs like a champ! And they only cost about 5 bucks a set!
BINGO YAHTZEE I'm glad someone knows what they are talking about!
USE COPPER PLUGS....
NGK BKR7E's I have them gapped at .036" runs like a champ! And they only cost about 5 bucks a set!
BINGO YAHTZEE I'm glad someone knows what they are talking about!
Last edited by M-Dub; Jan 7, 2008 at 04:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yes you can gap the iridium plugs. Make sure you get a gapping tool that has a hook looking device on it so you never touch the center electrode. If you put any pressure on the center electrode you will break it.
I would never run spark plugs in my car without checking the gap first and regapping if necessary. Even if it says the plugs are "factory pre-gapped" they can be wrong.
A word of advice to those using the iridium plugs - Instead of getting the BKR7EIX which is gapped at .030" you can get the BKR7EIX-11 which is gapped at .044"; it is always easier to gap down then up.
They also make the BKR6EIX-11.
I have been running iridiums in my car since I first got stage 2 and I have never had anything but good luck with them. They do by design retain more heat, but since the electrode is so small it actually cools better then the platinum plugs. Of course if I was going to use the car for nothing but racing I would go with copper plugs since they have the best thermal and elctrical conductivity.
I would never run spark plugs in my car without checking the gap first and regapping if necessary. Even if it says the plugs are "factory pre-gapped" they can be wrong.
A word of advice to those using the iridium plugs - Instead of getting the BKR7EIX which is gapped at .030" you can get the BKR7EIX-11 which is gapped at .044"; it is always easier to gap down then up.
They also make the BKR6EIX-11.
I have been running iridiums in my car since I first got stage 2 and I have never had anything but good luck with them. They do by design retain more heat, but since the electrode is so small it actually cools better then the platinum plugs. Of course if I was going to use the car for nothing but racing I would go with copper plugs since they have the best thermal and elctrical conductivity.
Yes you can gap the iridium plugs. Make sure you get a gapping tool that has a hook looking device on it so you never touch the center electrode. If you put any pressure on the center electrode you will break it.
I would never run spark plugs in my car without checking the gap first and regapping if necessary. Even if it says the plugs are "factory pre-gapped" they can be wrong.
A word of advice to those using the iridium plugs - Instead of getting the BKR7EIX which is gapped at .030" you can get the BKR7EIX-11 which is gapped at .044"; it is always easier to gap down then up.
They also make the BKR6EIX-11.
I have been running iridiums in my car since I first got stage 2 and I have never had anything but good luck with them. They do by design retain more heat, but since the electrode is so small it actually cools better then the platinum plugs. Of course if I was going to use the car for nothing but racing I would go with copper plugs since they have the best thermal and elctrical conductivity.
I would never run spark plugs in my car without checking the gap first and regapping if necessary. Even if it says the plugs are "factory pre-gapped" they can be wrong.
A word of advice to those using the iridium plugs - Instead of getting the BKR7EIX which is gapped at .030" you can get the BKR7EIX-11 which is gapped at .044"; it is always easier to gap down then up.
They also make the BKR6EIX-11.
I have been running iridiums in my car since I first got stage 2 and I have never had anything but good luck with them. They do by design retain more heat, but since the electrode is so small it actually cools better then the platinum plugs. Of course if I was going to use the car for nothing but racing I would go with copper plugs since they have the best thermal and elctrical conductivity.
k, thanks for the help guys...heading out there to change the gap in just a little bit.....lol, k I know I have the bkr7eix.....what are bkr7eix11's? Are they the 2 steps cooler? And, do you have a picture of the spark plug gapper you are talking about; the one is own is the cheap one thats round like a coin.........
k, thanks for the help guys...heading out there to change the gap in just a little bit.....lol, k I know I have the bkr7eix.....what are bkr7eix11's? Are they the 2 steps cooler? And, do you have a picture of the spark plug gapper you are talking about; the one is own is the cheap one thats round like a coin.........
Spark plug gapping tool:
As has been stated before, if you like to change your spark plugs every oil change, then copper plugs will work ok for you. Unless you are actually racing the car all the time I don't think copper is really the best option. Iridiums have such a small electrode that they cool very quickly, just about as quickly as copper plugs. And unless you are actually experiencing spark plug blowout, I don't think the small amount of electrical conductivity is going to make that much of a difference.
For the fifty plus years they were running copper they didnt have platinum or iridium plugs. Just food for thought. F1 engines use iridium and platinum plugs that seem to work fine at a cost of 35-50 per plug or about 500bucks for an engine!!!!!
I am still using my stock plugs w/ 2.9 and tune and running like a champ.
I am still using my stock plugs w/ 2.9 and tune and running like a champ.
As has been stated before, if you like to change your spark plugs every oil change, then copper plugs will work ok for you. Unless you are actually racing the car all the time I don't think copper is really the best option. Iridiums have such a small electrode that they cool very quickly, just about as quickly as copper plugs. And unless you are actually experiencing spark plug blowout, I don't think the small amount of electrical conductivity is going to make that much of a difference.


