Any of you LSJ guru's think the mill can handle a 150 shot if the pistons are forged? I don't have the LSJ build guide so I'm not sure what the rods, crank and block can handle. Assuming you have all the necessary drivetrain components to handle 100+ shot of nitrous. I'll be forging the pistons real soon and the thought of installing a nitrous kit is growing steadily in my mind lol.

sweet dude, cant wait

With forged pistons it said it can do up to 320 Hp. The head is restrictive i think needs to be replaced at 270 with a CNC machined one. But if stock, forged pistons and the machined head you can probably do a 100 shot. If you are going to do all that though you migh as well just do the build book and have that power all the time. Once they were done programmy they were close to their maximum, i forget the restriction.

With forged pistons it said it can do up to 320 Hp. The head is restrictive i think needs to be replaced at 270 with a CNC machined one. But if stock, forged pistons and the machined head you can probably do a 100 shot. If you are going to do all that though you migh as well just do the build book and have that power all the time. Once they were done programmy they were close to their maximum, i forget the restriction.

Blah, that sucks if the rods and crank can only handle 320hp? :( The head restriction is understandable, I suppose I could have that ported while doing the piston swap....but geez I'm outta luck if the rods and crank (or block for that matter) will give out before 500hp.
:cussing:

No the rods and crank are forged they should be good up to 400 i think. I'm sure someone on here know for sure.

No the rods and crank are forged they should be good up to 400 i think. I'm sure someone on here know for sure.


I sure hope so...that was one of the main reasons I bought this car is because the majority of the internals are forged. Interesting enough on the head restriction though, that really makes me want to get that ported before anything else and see what kind of gains can be acheived.

With the aluminum block you might be limited on the power without a stronger engine girdle or somthing along those lines.

Off topic: That is a sweet new sig Tofu.

Alright, I just downloaded the Ecotec build-up book. Man that's some good info. I noticed it said the GMPP Ecotec head can handle 320hp, while the rods and crank can handle "well over 300hp". I love how they have the specs on the cams, pistons, etc. that helps out a lot.


Cobalt_Supercharged- thanks for the sig comment, lol it was my first time using a photoshop "tutorial", worked out pretty well! :)

I hope you're going with direct port nitrous, as far as I know N2O and forced induction don't mix well if u spray before the compressor. Be carefull bro.

Is that 320 at the crank? If thats the case then around 272 at the wheels is the limit, stock and the intense kit will put you right at the limit. What is it like pistons and valve springs to get this thing up to 400 at the flywheel.

i thought everything could handle 400 hp

Yes they can handle about 350Hp safely.

With the aluminum block you might be limited on the power without a stronger engine girdle or somthing along those lines.

Off topic: That is a sweet new sig Tofu.


The pro FWD cars are running stock main girdles and blocks. The only difference in the blocks is ours is lost foam cast and the pro blocks are sand cast. BTW they are pushing 1200 horse. The #1 thing you need to look at is our hypereutectic pistons, they dont fair to well to big n2o shots (50-75 should be fine BUT..). But the rods are powder metal forged just like SB chevy pink rod and the crank is forged and gm has said is good to 800 horse.

Yes the head is restrictive the intake port is twice the size of the exhaust. When I was at sema gm said that this will be our biggest bottleneck. Caution they also said that there is a oil passage directly below the exhaust port and from what I was informed by SMS (who owned Lisa Kubos eco ion) lots of pro racers have cut into that port and had to have it welded. SMS worked with patriot and they have available cnc porting garuanteeing to have equal runners and not to damage..

Any of you LSJ guru's think the mill can handle a 150 shot if the pistons are forged? I don't have the LSJ build guide so I'm not sure what the rods, crank and block can handle. Assuming you have all the necessary drivetrain components to handle 100+ shot of nitrous. I'll be forging the pistons real soon and the thought of installing a nitrous kit is growing steadily in my mind lol.


Usually the rule of thumb is take out 2 degrees of timing for every 50shot of nitrous or 1 to 2 lbs of boost +/-. So to run this kinda shot your gonna need to throw on some adjustable cam gears....

i hope you realize that retarding the timing is not cam timing, it's ignition timing.

i hope you realize that retarding the timing is not cam timing, it's ignition timing.


LoL, oops. I just now caught what i wrote. Completely wrong. Wasnt exactly thinking when i wrote. Anywho, yes, your going to need to retard some IGNTION timing so that way your chances of having detonation, pre-igntion are severly reduced. You may also want to go with a step or 2 colder plug as well. But as of right now, there is no way to change the ignition timing without some kind piggyback/standalone module that can adjust such things that i know of at least.

MSD DIS-2 can alter ignition timing

MSD DIS-2 can alter ignition timing


But will it be accepted by the electronics on the cobalt. It seems weird they already have out things that can alter timing and such but yet dont make anything else, sounds kinda fishy but anywho, right now i dont know of any other controllers that can change timing for that big of a shot except for what ioninja said about the msd. I think F.A.S.T. does have a module that you can use but it comes at a pretty steep price...

One guy ran a 100+ shot on his 2005 Ion Redline and completly destroyed the clutch.

what do you mean "have things out" you guys are so blind when it comes to modding sometimes. dis's fit ANY car. distributorless ignition system. learn alittle more before you post.

I hope you're going with direct port nitrous, as far as I know N2O and forced induction don't mix well if u spray before the compressor. Be carefull bro.
Not really,i had a nitrous kit devloped by Nitrous Express(it consists of a plate mounted between the TB & the blower)its works great!With 35 hp jetting im getting close to 60hp!Although it is a wet kit.Check out the photos of mine in the gallery,iwill post new pics of the system tommorow

Anyone who wants more info send a private message.ive rally just started tuning this system,i have other mods om the way so,for now we are playing around with the jetting.NX might put this product in production(who knows?)they prototyped mine.so fer so good.:cssNET: :cssNET:

sweet ... sound good pmed

I am running a dual stage sytem. Wet 75 shot then a dry 10 shot. Got any questions let me know.

where do you have the nozzels located at ?

off the shelf forged slugs would be happy with 150 shot. You could spray more but most off the shelf forged pistons are mostly 4032 material and you'd run into problems if detonation occurred. Get a set of custom 2618 material forged pistons(any custom nitrous piston is forged out of this material) and spray to your hearts content really. Custom slugs would be good for 100-125+% of baseline power.

Personally I don't think that the 2 degrees for every 50hp is necessary on todays engines. 10+ years ago, yea. But now cylinder head/combustion chamber design has made GIANT leaps. To give you an example, someone I know has a LS1 with a decent hit on it. Based on the 2 degree formula a total of 8 degrees was pulled out on initial tune, well the car was sluggish on the gas. So 2 was put back in, the car picked up. Put another 2 back in it, it picked up some more. Said fuck it, ran stock timing, BAM car felt like it should. That was on pump 93, no detonation registered on the knock sensors. Put 100 octane in the tank and through more fuel and 4 degrees MORE timing and the car went DEEP 11s. Still does actually. A friend of mine runs nitrous avidly in his SBF Capri, and was using nitrous when it wouldn't kill you(huffing it) and says that with today's aftermarket and new factory designs that rule is pretty much nonexistent below 200-250hp worth of nitrous. And I agree. Now if you're still on double hump irons you'd better pull that timing, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.