Shifter
Shifter
So, back when I bought the car new I noticed the shifter would have some 'play' while in gear. Wasn't much at all, maybe a few cm's one way and back the other. Now, with over 20k miles, the play has gotten larger. I'm not saying a drastic difference, but enough that I know it's more then before.
Anyone have an idea what it could be? Roll pin maybe? I've slammed the shifter lockout between 2-3 numerous times, could it have led to this extra play?
That's the only thing I could see the problem being.
Anyone have an idea what it could be? Roll pin maybe? I've slammed the shifter lockout between 2-3 numerous times, could it have led to this extra play?
That's the only thing I could see the problem being.
my shifter would get a lot of play in it every time my roll pin was about to go, so bad to the point that after i put it into a gear the shifter would fall back about 1-1&1/2 inches while in 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear and 2nd and 4th could be pushed forward the same distance while the car was in gear. I would baby it and get it to a dealership as soon as possible. I got mine fixed before it could break a third time on me lol. If it is the roll pin you don't wanna be driving on a highway and have your gears disappear you like mine did twice
My definitely isn't as bad as that.
I'm thinking about using a nut and bolt instead of going to the dealer. I know my dealer will accuse my B&M/harsh driving as an excuse so I rather do it myself actually.
I'm thinking about using a nut and bolt instead of going to the dealer. I know my dealer will accuse my B&M/harsh driving as an excuse so I rather do it myself actually.
A dealership would be hard pressed to prove that your issue is due to abuse, unless the hyrdolic lines are actually bent.
I've been told that a couple of people have drilled it out for a larger bolt, so I told my dealership to do the same. They ended up burning up 6 drill bits trying to drill through the hardened steel rod coming out of the transmission. That includes a $6 Cobalt drill bit. I assume the tech was an idiot and didn't take his time or use proper luberication. If you do decide to try and drill it out, drill that hardened piece before the armature. That way, if you can't get through it, you can still put it back together stock...
I've been told that a couple of people have drilled it out for a larger bolt, so I told my dealership to do the same. They ended up burning up 6 drill bits trying to drill through the hardened steel rod coming out of the transmission. That includes a $6 Cobalt drill bit. I assume the tech was an idiot and didn't take his time or use proper luberication. If you do decide to try and drill it out, drill that hardened piece before the armature. That way, if you can't get through it, you can still put it back together stock...
are you talking about using a nut and bold in place of the roll pin?? where is that roll pin located?
Okay, there are two hydrolic linkages that connect to your tranny. One is for the syncros and the other for the gears. Both are esentially brass hats called armatures w/ a counter-weight that sit on top of a cylinder (rod) that protrudes from the tranny. You can see them through your driver's side wheel well w/ the wheel off. They sit right below the fuse box.
Anyways, when the armature is lined up on top of the gear or sycro rod, there are holes that line up through each to press a roll pin into one side of the hat, through the cylinder and back out the other side. A roll pin is basically a flat thin-wall steel plate rolled into a hollow pin. My pin on the shifter linkage sheered into three pieces. So there was on piece stuck in each side of the armature and one piece stuck inside the clyinder. We punched all three out and ran a bolt through it w/ a nut and locktite on the other side to get it to the dealer. To permanantly put a bolt through there, you need a grade 8 bolt and for it to fit snug through the holes. This is tricky cause you can't get a grade 8 bolt small enough for the stock sizing so you have to drill it out...
Anyways, when the armature is lined up on top of the gear or sycro rod, there are holes that line up through each to press a roll pin into one side of the hat, through the cylinder and back out the other side. A roll pin is basically a flat thin-wall steel plate rolled into a hollow pin. My pin on the shifter linkage sheered into three pieces. So there was on piece stuck in each side of the armature and one piece stuck inside the clyinder. We punched all three out and ran a bolt through it w/ a nut and locktite on the other side to get it to the dealer. To permanantly put a bolt through there, you need a grade 8 bolt and for it to fit snug through the holes. This is tricky cause you can't get a grade 8 bolt small enough for the stock sizing so you have to drill it out...
i was just wondering where it was because it could be a reallll pain to get down there and replace it with a bolt depending on its location...but it is deff better than using a roll pin, why gm didnt do this from the factory is beyond me
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