Bigger (Biggest?) Wheel/Tire Combination
11-08-2010, 03:20 PM
#51
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I would think if you can get some rear camber that would allow you to step dow to a 255 in the back. Reduce rotating mass and allow you to get a little closer to the cones. A 285 with a little camber would stick to much in the rear I would think? But, then again I like'em loose 
11-08-2010, 03:32 PM
#52
Have you looked into Team Dynamics wheels? They aren't the lightest, but they are a great value imo for a custom wheel. I was fortunate to win my 17x8's in a drawing. They made them to order in my bolt pattern, hub centric bore and offset. They fit the brembo's no problem and have a very generous back spacing. I am using a 35mm offset for coilover clearance.
Just give yourself some lead time. They take about 12-15 weeks to get. Made in England and shipped via boat.
I know the distributor for NA so let me know if you need any answers.
Team Illuminata
Just give yourself some lead time. They take about 12-15 weeks to get. Made in England and shipped via boat.
I know the distributor for NA so let me know if you need any answers.
Team Illuminata
11-08-2010, 03:58 PM
#53
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I would think if you can get some rear camber that would allow you to step dow to a 255 in the back. Reduce rotating mass and allow you to get a little closer to the cones. A 285 with a little camber would stick to much in the rear I would think? But, then again I like'em loose
I'm already plenty loose (too loose) in the current trim. Getting more negative camber in the rear will give me more rear stick -- more overall speed -- more quickness.
I should take a picture of the rear 255 Hoosiers (the photo I sent was of a front Hoosier). They have a total of 12 runs on them from the Washington National Tour event (me and my co-driver). As you can see, the fronts have worn evenly -- both sides -- with about -2.0 degrees of negative up front. The rears are worn on the outter 1/3rd and the inner 2/3rds are covered with OPR (Other People's Rubber). Bottom line, even with an OTTP hardcore bar, 650lb rear springs, and 45psi of pressure, the rears are still rolling over on the outside edge. More negative camber in the rear will help solve this problem. This was my experience with my 06 Redline -- adding negative to the rear significantly upped cornering speeds...
If you look closely at photos of SP, SM, and Modified cars at the Nationals, you note that lots of them have tires sticking outside the body line.
About the 5x114.3 hub mods, at this point I already have 4 sets of 5x110 wheels and 1 set of 5x114.3, and moving over to 5x114.3 would also cause me to get custom wheels -- lots more expensive at this point.
Scott
11-08-2010, 04:28 PM
#54
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FWIW, a 315/35R17 Nitto Drag radial is 12.4" on a 17x10.5" wheel. my 275/50R15 BFG Drag radials were about 3/4" narrower than them when they should have been a solid 1 1/2" narrower...
Hoosier runs even wider than BFG... I'm betting that 285 is "supposed" to be on an 11" wheel
Hoosier runs even wider than BFG... I'm betting that 285 is "supposed" to be on an 11" wheel
11-08-2010, 08:04 PM
#58
The tires (285 vs 255) effectively weigh the same and they have effectively the same rolling diameter (about 0.1" different) - no significant difference in rolling mass/rolling inertia. In fact, if they were both mounted on 10" rims (according to Hoosier), there's about 0.6" of width difference between the 285 and the 255 -- visibly that's not the case -- the 'why' I'm running 10" rims.
I'm already plenty loose (too loose) in the current trim. Getting more negative camber in the rear will give me more rear stick -- more overall speed -- more quickness.
I should take a picture of the rear 255 Hoosiers (the photo I sent was of a front Hoosier). They have a total of 12 runs on them from the Washington National Tour event (me and my co-driver). As you can see, the fronts have worn evenly -- both sides -- with about -2.0 degrees of negative up front. The rears are worn on the outter 1/3rd and the inner 2/3rds are covered with OPR (Other People's Rubber). Bottom line, even with an OTTP hardcore bar, 650lb rear springs, and 45psi of pressure, the rears are still rolling over on the outside edge. More negative camber in the rear will help solve this problem. This was my experience with my 06 Redline -- adding negative to the rear significantly upped cornering speeds...
If you look closely at photos of SP, SM, and Modified cars at the Nationals, you note that lots of them have tires sticking outside the body line.
About the 5x114.3 hub mods, at this point I already have 4 sets of 5x110 wheels and 1 set of 5x114.3, and moving over to 5x114.3 would also cause me to get custom wheels -- lots more expensive at this point.
Scott
I'm already plenty loose (too loose) in the current trim. Getting more negative camber in the rear will give me more rear stick -- more overall speed -- more quickness.
I should take a picture of the rear 255 Hoosiers (the photo I sent was of a front Hoosier). They have a total of 12 runs on them from the Washington National Tour event (me and my co-driver). As you can see, the fronts have worn evenly -- both sides -- with about -2.0 degrees of negative up front. The rears are worn on the outter 1/3rd and the inner 2/3rds are covered with OPR (Other People's Rubber). Bottom line, even with an OTTP hardcore bar, 650lb rear springs, and 45psi of pressure, the rears are still rolling over on the outside edge. More negative camber in the rear will help solve this problem. This was my experience with my 06 Redline -- adding negative to the rear significantly upped cornering speeds...
If you look closely at photos of SP, SM, and Modified cars at the Nationals, you note that lots of them have tires sticking outside the body line.
About the 5x114.3 hub mods, at this point I already have 4 sets of 5x110 wheels and 1 set of 5x114.3, and moving over to 5x114.3 would also cause me to get custom wheels -- lots more expensive at this point.
Scott
11-08-2010, 08:20 PM
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FWIW, a 315/35R17 Nitto Drag radial is 12.4" on a 17x10.5" wheel. my 275/50R15 BFG Drag radials were about 3/4" narrower than them when they should have been a solid 1 1/2" narrower...
Hoosier runs even wider than BFG... I'm betting that 285 is "supposed" to be on an 11" wheel
Hoosier runs even wider than BFG... I'm betting that 285 is "supposed" to be on an 11" wheel
Tire / Recommended Rim Width / Tire Section Width / Tire Tread Width / Tire Diameter
255/35ZR18 / 8.5-10" / 10.8" / 10.3" / 24.8"
275/35ZR18 / 9-11" / 10.9" / 10.3" / 25.5"
285/30ZR18 / 10-11" / 11.5" / 10.9" / 24.9"
295/30ZR18 / 9.5-11" / 11.6" / 10.8" / 25.3"
So note that stock-sized tires are 25" rolling diameter. So the biggest tread-width for the buck, less than 25" in diameter is the Hoosier A6 in 285/30x18 -- second choice is the 255/35x18.
Go to Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels to see the specs for everything.
Someone, I don't know who, commented that they didn't think an SS could adequately 'heat' big Hoosiers -- note that the 285s are melted...
I agree about running 5x114.3 wheels because there are hundreds to select from -- in many widths and offsets -- and even custom wheels are cheaper. I just choose to use wheel adapters so my basic bolt pattern is still 5x110 (I have photos of the wheel adapters if anyone's interested - and I can point you to the company in San Bernadino, CA that custom makes them - reasonably priced).
Scott
Last edited by scottherbert; 11-08-2010 at 09:39 PM.
11-08-2010, 10:25 PM
#61
I believe its 38mm . I havnt decided which coilovers Im going to get yet. The wheels I have are exact split over the stock width 1/2 inch wider on inside and 1/2 wider on the outside. The 9 inch wheels are 1 inch each way but Im not sure if they would work on the road course with coilovers. I think I would need the extra inch to the outside on the 9s. I have the slicks on the 9s
11-09-2010, 06:17 AM
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It drives just fine. Remember, this is only for autocrossing, I run stock wheels/tires on the street.
Scott
11-09-2010, 09:48 AM
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What kind of spring rate do you need to keep from rubbing on those? It must be way up in the 800-900 lb. range. It definitely gives the car a purposeful look, as well as mucho rubber on the road.
edit:
NVM, didn't see this page when I typed that. Looks like 650s. Still, wow.
edit:
NVM, didn't see this page when I typed that. Looks like 650s. Still, wow.
Last edited by Racerdad; 11-09-2010 at 09:52 AM. Reason: didn't read whole thread....
11-09-2010, 10:51 AM
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The farthest East I've gotten in the past couple of years has been the Nationals in Lincoln, NE. It's easier for me to go to Texas, New Mexico, Washington, and California than to go back east. Having said this, I was stationed for years on Ft Devens, MA and Ft Bragg, NC, and I have 'familiy' in Florida and Mississippi. Who knows...
Scott
11-10-2010, 08:25 PM
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However, I have to say, do you have any idea what the weather's like in Colorado, New Mexico, and West Texas in March? It usually really sucks. The thought of having to go down on race suspention -- and snow tires really doesn't cut it...
Scott
11-10-2010, 09:54 PM
#74
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To far away to tell you for sure but, I would be down for Puru, Dixie or Blytheville next year? The car won't be very well sorted out in the new STX trim but, I might not come in last. 
11-11-2010, 08:39 AM
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The car and I are a long way from that condition today.
The very good news is that I've still got Tom Pora and Mark Smith (Mark's mother took 1st in SM in his DSP R32 this year -- Mark was co-driving in another class) to routinely run against here locally. "If" I can start running up with them, I'll be in good shape for the Nationals.
If not, then maybe it's time to go back to skydiving -- and forget being serious about autocross...
Scott
