Lightweight Parts
09-17-2011, 10:33 PM
#26
about 130/140 before i hit the big bank i get up high and dip down low and i dunno the banking degrees i think its 40 or 45 lol its nascar course so yea and yea its a scary feeling and i wanna get better at driving and turn off esc and traction control but not with that bank there ya know lol
and im only running hardcore bar not even xxx yet lol
and im only running hardcore bar not even xxx yet lol
Even with everything off, the car will pull back power once in a while. It's only when it hits super high loads though, like 300% logged. You can hear and feel it. It's usually something that only happens at lower RPM when you're in a slightly too high of a gear, like if you don't downshift to second gear, and leave it in 3rd, and dip down kinda low in RPM, like 3000, maybe lower. I don't recall.
09-17-2011, 10:54 PM
#27
haha ill try it tomorow just scared lol thats why i wanna do an auto x soon so i can take it off and not have to worry about hitting a wall just about hitting cones lol
and haha i do that too im driving for a few laps and im like oh **** not in competition mode oh wells lol
and haha i do that too im driving for a few laps and im like oh **** not in competition mode oh wells lol
09-17-2011, 11:24 PM
#28
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Even with everything off, the car will pull back power once in a while. It's only when it hits super high loads though, like 300% logged. You can hear and feel it. It's usually something that only happens at lower RPM when you're in a slightly too high of a gear, like if you don't downshift to second gear, and leave it in 3rd, and dip down kinda low in RPM, like 3000, maybe lower. I don't recall.
09-17-2011, 11:32 PM
#29
I think both Sparco and NRG have direct fit hubs. I think the Sparco one is part # 2099, but you'd better check, or get it somewhere with a good return policy like OG Racing.
As far as the code goes, you'll probably have to fab up some resistors to plug in. Not sure what this car requires to turn the light off. Measure the stock airbag connectors for resistance. If you can find plugs to fit into the stock harness that's even better. Then you won't have to hack either the airbag wiring, or the car's airbag harness.
edit: CED can probably help you with the plug for the airbag, if you send Tom a pic. If he can't, no one can
As far as the code goes, you'll probably have to fab up some resistors to plug in. Not sure what this car requires to turn the light off. Measure the stock airbag connectors for resistance. If you can find plugs to fit into the stock harness that's even better. Then you won't have to hack either the airbag wiring, or the car's airbag harness.
edit: CED can probably help you with the plug for the airbag, if you send Tom a pic. If he can't, no one can
09-18-2011, 06:13 AM
#31
I've seen folks on here use NRG and one Sparco.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/1873695-post12.html
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/1929984-post13.html
Did this guy monkey it on? There's always NRG I guess.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/1873695-post12.html
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/1929984-post13.html
Did this guy monkey it on? There's always NRG I guess.
09-18-2011, 09:53 AM
#32
the sparco hub has no master spline. I have checked them exhaustively. There is only one sparco hub for chevrolets listed, and none for cobalt listed with a master spline. I even checked the boxes at Johnson Research and Performance, a BIG online source here in Toronto. IF you machined out a slot where the master spline is in the hub, maybe that would work, but i would be scared to remove a percentage of the spline engagement.
I am not sure if its worth the effort to post pictures of the steering column... oh well.
I am not sure if its worth the effort to post pictures of the steering column... oh well.
09-18-2011, 09:56 AM
#33
I have an accessory wheel plate for cruise switching but I did not bother with it at this time as it was not working with the tune I had anyway.
09-18-2011, 10:31 PM
#36
the only guy I know who did that is blazin22 Josh R., in florida and he said that he had a momo hub machined to take the q-d etc or something. My hub is "out" I have been making them since 2004. The point is to find something on the shelf that peeps can buy for under a 100 dollars and sparco and momo dont make one. Its a thankless task with no profit, you lose the air bag, which for some peeps is not a good thing, and its not cheap for labor and expertise to wire in the information and cruise buttons on the later model Cobalts. So I would rather not bother with it to tell the truth. But I carry a hub in stock at any time pretty much.
09-19-2011, 10:38 AM
#37
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Great info John, I will call. Also guys if you can keep this to lightweight parts not driving techniques.
In reference to weight and power. Scott I understand what your saying, however my goal in saving weight is to improve acceleration, braking as well as transition. Your right, we do not need more power, however if we can get lighter that would be a plus. I think I can get in the 2700 lb range legally which would put us in a ver good position against the BMW's in DSP. I belive they cannot get below 3200. We have more power and less weight, and equal tire size. To me, reducing weight as well as our other attributes will put is in the hunt next year.
Slowbalt
In reference to weight and power. Scott I understand what your saying, however my goal in saving weight is to improve acceleration, braking as well as transition. Your right, we do not need more power, however if we can get lighter that would be a plus. I think I can get in the 2700 lb range legally which would put us in a ver good position against the BMW's in DSP. I belive they cannot get below 3200. We have more power and less weight, and equal tire size. To me, reducing weight as well as our other attributes will put is in the hunt next year.
Slowbalt
09-19-2011, 10:45 AM
#38
only thing ive done to lose weight is cf hood and trunk id love a full replacement cf roof but its too expensive and id have to have full cage or at least a hoop with it i drive my car everyday so when i go to track i just strip out my trunk but eventually ill probably gut the whole interior minus door panels and dash lol
09-19-2011, 10:50 AM
#39
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The E36 BMWs are already in the 2700 lb. range in DSP. Even an E46 can pretty easily get WAY under 3000. I don't think the Cobalt can ever be competitive nationally in DSP, locally competitive though.
09-19-2011, 06:06 PM
#40
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So, I'm considering buying an F Mod car, I'm not a fan of snowmobile engines, so maybe a Formula V with a 1600cc autocross spec engine, 0 roll rear end, bigger slicks. I used to build air cooled VW motors, mine used to last, so maybe that's the next car for me - it would be a lot cheaper to maintain and operate than the Cobalt... But If I could find a reasonbly priced Formula Ford I would do it too.
Who knows...
09-19-2011, 07:55 PM
#41
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Boy, I did not know they were down to 2700 lbs though. That was my goal to get in that range. Boy, am I bummed now.
I may have to switch the motor in my corvette and do ASP!
09-20-2011, 11:01 AM
#42
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Mark, thanks for the info, I did not know they were down that low. I will try for one year to see how the car does. I can say, the BMW's well prepared are great driving cars.
Boy, I did not know they were down to 2700 lbs though. That was my goal to get in that range. Boy, am I bummed now.
I may have to switch the motor in my corvette and do ASP!
Boy, I did not know they were down to 2700 lbs though. That was my goal to get in that range. Boy, am I bummed now.
I may have to switch the motor in my corvette and do ASP!
If you want to get serious about weight reduction (which is what the local BMW people have done) remove the air conditioning system and all of its parts, remove the heater and all of its part, and remove the sound system and all of its parts -- now you're beginning to lose weight -- all of this ia legal according to SCCA in DSP.
Scott
09-20-2011, 08:57 PM
#43
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http://www.scca.com/documents/2011%2...lo%20Rules.pdf
Page 92, near the bottom. You cannot touch the heater.
09-21-2011, 08:39 PM
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09-21-2011, 11:21 PM
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09-23-2011, 10:13 AM
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I can tell you, however, that several of the local/national BMWs are on their 2nd, 3rd, or 4th owners. The cars were professionally built and campaigned successfully by other people before they were sold to the current owners.
Bottom line, so we're talking about professionally sorted-out cars, professoinally built (SCR, BIMMERHAUS, etc.) cars, driven successfully by the original owners, and now owned/driven by someone else -- it's not exactly the same thing as one of us fixing-up our Cobalt and competing against these cars/owners. We're running against vehicles that have been prepped and winning for years -- as many as 6-8 years in some cases.
It's a hard row to hoe, not impossible, but definitely hard...
I'll probably keep trying with my Cobalt if for no other reason than I've built is myself and I really want to surprise those BMWs some day...
Scott
09-23-2011, 10:37 AM
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Probably not really. I've already invested a lot into the Cobalt and I won't be able to recover those dollars for a while.
I can tell you, however, that several of the local/national BMWs are on their 2nd, 3rd, or 4th owners. The cars were professionally built and campaigned successfully by other people before they were sold to the current owners.
Bottom line, so we're talking about professionally sorted-out cars, professoinally built (SCR, BIMMERHAUS, etc.) cars, driven successfully by the original owners, and now owned/driven by someone else -- it's not exactly the same thing as one of us fixing-up our Cobalt and competing against these cars/owners. We're running against vehicles that have been prepped and winning for years -- as many as 6-8 years in some cases.
It's a hard row to hoe, not impossible, but definitely hard...
I'll probably keep trying with my Cobalt if for no other reason than I've built is myself and I really want to surprise those BMWs some day...
Scott
I can tell you, however, that several of the local/national BMWs are on their 2nd, 3rd, or 4th owners. The cars were professionally built and campaigned successfully by other people before they were sold to the current owners.
Bottom line, so we're talking about professionally sorted-out cars, professoinally built (SCR, BIMMERHAUS, etc.) cars, driven successfully by the original owners, and now owned/driven by someone else -- it's not exactly the same thing as one of us fixing-up our Cobalt and competing against these cars/owners. We're running against vehicles that have been prepped and winning for years -- as many as 6-8 years in some cases.
It's a hard row to hoe, not impossible, but definitely hard...
I'll probably keep trying with my Cobalt if for no other reason than I've built is myself and I really want to surprise those BMWs some day...
Scott