Official: Autocross and Road Racing Thread
#151
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
no front bar is the way the first cobalt race cars ran. the front bar effects the rear and vice versa. increasing front spring rate will tend to make the car understeer more, and so does a front bar on turn in. so removing the front bar in that case is now a wash.
the zzp and progress and other bars with a tab attachment yield at the tab so the effect in torsion is minimized. as for material unless its treated steel the only material that makes sense is chrome moly. its all about elastic and plastic qualities of metal and its been covered in other threads on here.
at the end of the day its what works for you and what you can afford. Clearly the most successful combinations include YYZ and Powell rear bars, along with spherical joints and large wheel combinations. I tend to balk at more than a 245/40 section tire but the pro auto x ers run some crazy 255/275 etc combinations that work well.
and win
autox is a very small microcosm in terms of handling with ultra slow speed and tight configurations. So some setups become extreme to suit.
I venture to say that the Powell stuff works out as the fastest for the most people with the best bang for the buck, and generates the most success, from wangspeed through whitnith. speedbuggy omiotek to yellowss colordude et al... and Yellowss as a rookie has kicked butt all year in some very large classes
the zzp and progress and other bars with a tab attachment yield at the tab so the effect in torsion is minimized. as for material unless its treated steel the only material that makes sense is chrome moly. its all about elastic and plastic qualities of metal and its been covered in other threads on here.
at the end of the day its what works for you and what you can afford. Clearly the most successful combinations include YYZ and Powell rear bars, along with spherical joints and large wheel combinations. I tend to balk at more than a 245/40 section tire but the pro auto x ers run some crazy 255/275 etc combinations that work well.
and win
autox is a very small microcosm in terms of handling with ultra slow speed and tight configurations. So some setups become extreme to suit.
I venture to say that the Powell stuff works out as the fastest for the most people with the best bang for the buck, and generates the most success, from wangspeed through whitnith. speedbuggy omiotek to yellowss colordude et al... and Yellowss as a rookie has kicked butt all year in some very large classes
#152
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-20-09
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats ssyellow to you, Mr. Powell
The setup works with a good driver, no denying that. I'm still rocking stock FE5 struts/shocks, although recently replaced. Unfortunately I haven't had time to do an event in a while due to other things going on.
Had to take the XXX bar off to do something and now realize how planted it use to feel with it on. Really a night and day difference of turn in and feeling planted.
The setup works with a good driver, no denying that. I'm still rocking stock FE5 struts/shocks, although recently replaced. Unfortunately I haven't had time to do an event in a while due to other things going on.
Had to take the XXX bar off to do something and now realize how planted it use to feel with it on. Really a night and day difference of turn in and feeling planted.
#153
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: 05-05-07
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought I had replied to the question about what bar people use, or maybe it was somewhere else... In any case...
I run the little Street bar still, which I believe you can't even buy now. It sounds weird, but I think my trailer hitch also helps, since it is also bolted to the frame across the rear end.
The car handles amazingly, Road America really doesn't need any more bar than this. And since I do the overwhelming majority of my track time there, it works for me.
I run the little Street bar still, which I believe you can't even buy now. It sounds weird, but I think my trailer hitch also helps, since it is also bolted to the frame across the rear end.
The car handles amazingly, Road America really doesn't need any more bar than this. And since I do the overwhelming majority of my track time there, it works for me.
#154
rule 1, run what works for you so you are comfortable, rule 2 comfortable set up will help lap times. Always better to let the speed come on it's own, if you try to go fast it usually ends up badly. A comfortable set up allows you to focus on the line and not constantly trying to save the car.
#156
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
no front bar is the way the first cobalt race cars ran. the front bar effects the rear and vice versa. increasing front spring rate will tend to make the car understeer more, and so does a front bar on turn in. so removing the front bar in that case is now a wash.
the zzp and progress and other bars with a tab attachment yield at the tab so the effect in torsion is minimized. as for material unless its treated steel the only material that makes sense is chrome moly. its all about elastic and plastic qualities of metal and its been covered in other threads on here.
at the end of the day its what works for you and what you can afford. Clearly the most successful combinations include YYZ and Powell rear bars, along with spherical joints and large wheel combinations. I tend to balk at more than a 245/40 section tire but the pro auto x ers run some crazy 255/275 etc combinations that work well.
and win
autox is a very small microcosm in terms of handling with ultra slow speed and tight configurations. So some setups become extreme to suit.
I venture to say that the Powell stuff works out as the fastest for the most people with the best bang for the buck, and generates the most success, from wangspeed through whitnith. speedbuggy omiotek to yellowss colordude et al... and Yellowss as a rookie has kicked butt all year in some very large classes
the zzp and progress and other bars with a tab attachment yield at the tab so the effect in torsion is minimized. as for material unless its treated steel the only material that makes sense is chrome moly. its all about elastic and plastic qualities of metal and its been covered in other threads on here.
at the end of the day its what works for you and what you can afford. Clearly the most successful combinations include YYZ and Powell rear bars, along with spherical joints and large wheel combinations. I tend to balk at more than a 245/40 section tire but the pro auto x ers run some crazy 255/275 etc combinations that work well.
and win
autox is a very small microcosm in terms of handling with ultra slow speed and tight configurations. So some setups become extreme to suit.
I venture to say that the Powell stuff works out as the fastest for the most people with the best bang for the buck, and generates the most success, from wangspeed through whitnith. speedbuggy omiotek to yellowss colordude et al... and Yellowss as a rookie has kicked butt all year in some very large classes
Thanks John. Couldn't do it without your help and support and letting my test tho vs on and off for you. means the world to me to save the support of someone in the racing community.
#160
I think corner balancing would be worth it if on coilovers with adjustability. From what I understand it's almost a requirement for any serious track use with coilovers. Not so much if not on coilovers. I've not crossweighted my car running koni yellows/yyz v1 and it's right where I want it.
#161
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
And for coil overs it is important to get the car set up correctly , which becomes more difficult if the overall strut height is adjustable and you do not scale the car.
#162
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
All the time. But not with stock config springs. No gain to be had. Not adjustment to be made easily.
And for coil overs it is important to get the car set up correctly , which becomes more difficult if the overall strut height is adjustable and you do not scale the car.
And for coil overs it is important to get the car set up correctly , which becomes more difficult if the overall strut height is adjustable and you do not scale the car.
Also finally emailed you guys about some parts John, want to pick up your steering wheel hub (sick of this NRG pos) and possibly some F23 trans mounts.
#165
What bumper/splitter is that?
#167
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
So, heres an interesting problem. Out at the road course today. Car runs fine thru 1-2-3, all the way to redline, makes boost, etc. Go into 4th gear, car will go to 5k rpm / 85mph then its like it hits a speed limiter. go to 5th gear, it will get to 4500 rpm and 105mph but no more.
Already did a boost leak / vaccum leak check
Put new plugs, and a spare coil pack and ign module in tonight when I got home
Reflashed my trifecta ( I have an o6 L61, so sadly thats my only option) tune on the ECM.
Nothing makes a change. This is really bizarre and i can't make heads or tails of it. anyone have ideas?
Already did a boost leak / vaccum leak check
Put new plugs, and a spare coil pack and ign module in tonight when I got home
Reflashed my trifecta ( I have an o6 L61, so sadly thats my only option) tune on the ECM.
Nothing makes a change. This is really bizarre and i can't make heads or tails of it. anyone have ideas?
#168
Unfortunately I can't offer you any suggestions as to how to fix this but I had this problem happen mid-session during a track day two years ago, running completely stock. After resting in the paddock for a couple hours, I crossed my fingers and the problem was gone. I've done many track days since then and the problem never came back.
#169
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
WOTTuning is saying knock sensor freaking out. I know the 06's knock system is stupidly sensitive. So I unpluged it, hard reset the ECU today, reflashed, and after work tonight will make some pulls in an empty area of the complex to see if we fixed it. Shame. The setup we put in the car, she drove awesome.
Had a guy it a crazy fast Mercedes. Every straightaway he would just run from me. But he could not get it thru the corner. every corner i was like OH HAI! and tck up right on him. ... sadly drafting doesnt work when your 30mph off the pace, hahaha
Had a guy it a crazy fast Mercedes. Every straightaway he would just run from me. But he could not get it thru the corner. every corner i was like OH HAI! and tck up right on him. ... sadly drafting doesnt work when your 30mph off the pace, hahaha
#170
Senior Member
So, heres an interesting problem. Out at the road course today. Car runs fine thru 1-2-3, all the way to redline, makes boost, etc. Go into 4th gear, car will go to 5k rpm / 85mph then its like it hits a speed limiter. go to 5th gear, it will get to 4500 rpm and 105mph but no more.
Already did a boost leak / vaccum leak check
Put new plugs, and a spare coil pack and ign module in tonight when I got home
Reflashed my trifecta ( I have an o6 L61, so sadly thats my only option) tune on the ECM.
Nothing makes a change. This is really bizarre and i can't make heads or tails of it. anyone have ideas?
Already did a boost leak / vaccum leak check
Put new plugs, and a spare coil pack and ign module in tonight when I got home
Reflashed my trifecta ( I have an o6 L61, so sadly thats my only option) tune on the ECM.
Nothing makes a change. This is really bizarre and i can't make heads or tails of it. anyone have ideas?
#172
Senior Member
Is it showing knock in the logs?