anybody have detailed pics on clutch install
09-21-2006, 09:03 AM
#1
anybody have detailed pics on clutch install
I have to remove my tranny and replace my bellhousing, clutch and whatever else broke in the damn thing... anyone have a pictoral how to on this... I saw the write up, just wanted to know if anyone did it themselves and had pics.
thanks guys
thanks guys
09-21-2006, 01:43 PM
#3
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SilverSS/SC originally PM'd me this. It is easy to follow even without pictures if you are just a little familiar with the car. I don't have pics, but I used these instructions and it worked out great for me. Good luck! Oh, and after having to do it three times my friend and I got in done in 6-6.5 hours with cleanup. Thank god Clutch Masters finally got it right!
-Remove underhood fuse box . Pay attention to to how you take it apart , I didnt and at the endof the night it bit me in the ass because I didnt get 2 of the electrical buses seated properly , causing my car not to start .
-remove electrical connector on the top bellhousing bolt , then remove bolt
-remove clutch hydralic fitting just below that bolt you took out . Theres a thru-pin u need to pull out then the entire fitting will slip off , you dont need to unscrew the actual line from fitting .
-remove 2 electrical connectors from trans , 1 on top and 1 towards the back of the trans
-remove shift cables
-remove shift cable bracket from trans
-while the car is still on the ground , u need to tie up the radiator or it will fall to ground when u take the cradle out
-Also before you lift the car , install engine brace . Being at a Mazda dealer your buddy should have one . You need to do this so the engine doesnt drop , also youll need to be able to lower the engine to get the trans out , ans position it getting the lower mounts back on . I hooked to the assembly line hook on the drivers side of the cylinder head .
-Now u can lift the car
-remove aftercooler pump from bracket , I jus let mine hang as its light light , then remove the aftercooler pump bracket .
-remove wires from starter , then 2 bolts and take starter out .
-Remove wheels
-Remove ball joint slider bolts and lower the LCA's outa the ball joint . Bolt head is 16mm the nut is 15mm
-I took the axles out next . The strut assembly swayed enuff to get the axles out without disassembling anything more than lowering the LCA out of the strut assembly . I forgot to get the GM manual trans fluid that u HAVE TO USE so I had a friend ready to stuff a shop rag in the hole the second I got the axle out . doing that , I only lost a few drops of fluid . On the passenger side axle , theres a bracket attached midway . Remove that to get full travel of the passenger axle . So the axle didnt just dangle there I tied it up to the exhaust .
-Remove steering rack bolts from cradle and tie up
-Remove swaybar bolts and brackets from cradle , u can let the swaybar just hang
-Remove front trans mount from trans , I left the cradle side attached . 2 -18mm bolts
-Remove rear trans mount . 3 18mm nuts on trans , and there are 3 bolts in a triangle pattern on the cradle u also need to remove to get this mount out .
*** Make sure the engine is braced , when u take these mounts out , nothing will be supporting the driverside of engine***
-Remove 9/32 bolts and push screws from the front spash guards so u can move them outa the way ( they hide the 2 front cradle bolts .
-Remove engine cradle , 21 mm bolts
-Remove 2 10mm and small black inspection cover on the back of trans
-Support trans with a trans jack
-Remove all bell housing bolts . There only one on the top . all the other bell housing bolts are on the backside/engineside of trans
*** be sure you have access to inverted torx sockets . Thats what the clutch bolts are ( grrrr GM ) I dont remember the size .
-Remove clutch
-Remove flywheel
-Holes on the new flywheel will only line up 1 way . Ive heard of people having fittament probs with the fidendza , mine whent right on though .
-Use blue locktite and torque flywheel bolts to 39 ft lbs , then an additional 25 degrees
-clutch bolts get torqued to 22 ft lbs
-I re-used the original throw out bearing /slave cylinder . There was nothing wrong with mine .
-to line the clutch up , we ended up having a alignment tool that fit perfectly . I dont know what its from though . It was out of pile of about 20 different ones saved from past clutch installs . If u dont have one , alota guys use a socket and extention .
-Out trans doesnt have a pilot bushing
DONT FORGET THE ALUMINUM SPACER when putting the trans back in . I told myself a million times not to forget , and still found myself starting to line the trans back up without it .
Then the fun of reversing the process to re-install .
I bled the clutch before I put the fuse box back on , as the bleeder is kinda a pita to get too .
This the first FWD Ive ever worked on , so it took ALOT longer than it should have . Dealer calls for 4.3 hours start to finish . IT took me about 10 hours start to finish , some of that time is bs'ing and tacobell though too
Good luck man , and enjoy the new clutch . I freakin LOVE IT
-remove electrical connector on the top bellhousing bolt , then remove bolt
-remove clutch hydralic fitting just below that bolt you took out . Theres a thru-pin u need to pull out then the entire fitting will slip off , you dont need to unscrew the actual line from fitting .
-remove 2 electrical connectors from trans , 1 on top and 1 towards the back of the trans
-remove shift cables
-remove shift cable bracket from trans
-while the car is still on the ground , u need to tie up the radiator or it will fall to ground when u take the cradle out
-Also before you lift the car , install engine brace . Being at a Mazda dealer your buddy should have one . You need to do this so the engine doesnt drop , also youll need to be able to lower the engine to get the trans out , ans position it getting the lower mounts back on . I hooked to the assembly line hook on the drivers side of the cylinder head .
-Now u can lift the car
-remove aftercooler pump from bracket , I jus let mine hang as its light light , then remove the aftercooler pump bracket .
-remove wires from starter , then 2 bolts and take starter out .
-Remove wheels
-Remove ball joint slider bolts and lower the LCA's outa the ball joint . Bolt head is 16mm the nut is 15mm
-I took the axles out next . The strut assembly swayed enuff to get the axles out without disassembling anything more than lowering the LCA out of the strut assembly . I forgot to get the GM manual trans fluid that u HAVE TO USE so I had a friend ready to stuff a shop rag in the hole the second I got the axle out . doing that , I only lost a few drops of fluid . On the passenger side axle , theres a bracket attached midway . Remove that to get full travel of the passenger axle . So the axle didnt just dangle there I tied it up to the exhaust .
-Remove steering rack bolts from cradle and tie up
-Remove swaybar bolts and brackets from cradle , u can let the swaybar just hang
-Remove front trans mount from trans , I left the cradle side attached . 2 -18mm bolts
-Remove rear trans mount . 3 18mm nuts on trans , and there are 3 bolts in a triangle pattern on the cradle u also need to remove to get this mount out .
*** Make sure the engine is braced , when u take these mounts out , nothing will be supporting the driverside of engine***
-Remove 9/32 bolts and push screws from the front spash guards so u can move them outa the way ( they hide the 2 front cradle bolts .
-Remove engine cradle , 21 mm bolts
-Remove 2 10mm and small black inspection cover on the back of trans
-Support trans with a trans jack
-Remove all bell housing bolts . There only one on the top . all the other bell housing bolts are on the backside/engineside of trans
*** be sure you have access to inverted torx sockets . Thats what the clutch bolts are ( grrrr GM ) I dont remember the size .
-Remove clutch
-Remove flywheel
-Holes on the new flywheel will only line up 1 way . Ive heard of people having fittament probs with the fidendza , mine whent right on though .
-Use blue locktite and torque flywheel bolts to 39 ft lbs , then an additional 25 degrees
-clutch bolts get torqued to 22 ft lbs
-I re-used the original throw out bearing /slave cylinder . There was nothing wrong with mine .
-to line the clutch up , we ended up having a alignment tool that fit perfectly . I dont know what its from though . It was out of pile of about 20 different ones saved from past clutch installs . If u dont have one , alota guys use a socket and extention .
-Out trans doesnt have a pilot bushing
DONT FORGET THE ALUMINUM SPACER when putting the trans back in . I told myself a million times not to forget , and still found myself starting to line the trans back up without it .
Then the fun of reversing the process to re-install .
I bled the clutch before I put the fuse box back on , as the bleeder is kinda a pita to get too .
This the first FWD Ive ever worked on , so it took ALOT longer than it should have . Dealer calls for 4.3 hours start to finish . IT took me about 10 hours start to finish , some of that time is bs'ing and tacobell though too
Good luck man , and enjoy the new clutch . I freakin LOVE IT
09-21-2006, 01:58 PM
#5
STILL need the inverted torx bit size... gotta get me those... but things are going down at gm right now... apparently there are around 100 or so cars in dealerships with the same problem and gm told my dealer not to touch my car as they are sending a rep to look at whats going on.
09-21-2006, 03:14 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by 06blackg85ss
clutch exploded and driver side axle snapped (not even launched just hit the gas, and not even floored)
yep same problem with mine
i get it back tomarrow
09-21-2006, 03:19 PM
#10
well now apparantly gm sent a rep to all the dealerships here with broken cobalts (I heard its quite a large number) and all have the same problem.... I"m still waiting to hear back from my service rep.. he was supposed to call me back 2 hrs ago...
I just want to know whats happening so I can pick up all my parts I need and jump on it myself... I need a car damnit
I just want to know whats happening so I can pick up all my parts I need and jump on it myself... I need a car damnit
09-21-2006, 03:25 PM
#11
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dude that sounds pretty freaky...how do you know when your axle snaps...the car just locks and wont go anywhere? i imagine a lot more damage can be achieved if you keep trying to drive.
09-23-2006, 06:48 AM
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Probally a month after I got my car I blew the right axle out of the tranny on an off ramp, apparently there is a bracket that holds them in place and it snaps in very weird conditions, even in automatics.
09-27-2006, 11:30 PM
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They removed my trans and wanted to rip it apart. I knew it was either a cable or the roll pin on the shift lever so I went into the shop at night when only sales guys were there and inspected my trans myself. Sure enough the roll pin had broken and these ******** pulled my ****** trans out and wanted to rip it apart so they could charge me over a grand. Next day I bardged into the shop and told the service manger to meet me by my car. I told him to explain why I had to pay to have my trans torn down. At this point the service manager and the MASTER tech figure they have me by the ***** until I pull off the shift lever and show them the broken roll pin. I told them to my car back together FIXED! So they did just that and washed it to. Just the same old **** at a GM dealer.
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