averagewhiteboy

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Resolution of post 33.

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Hey guys,

So, this is the second time of posting this issue. Maybe someone can help this time instead of getting a billion views and no responses, eh?

Here's the deal. 2.4 SS, auto. Bolts on's include ZZP header/dp, GMPP Performance catback, Injen CAI. The basics. I also had a B&M Shift Plus installed. HAD. My tranny fluid was recently changed as well, so that's good.

I loved the Shift Plus when I first installed it. It worked great. But then it'd randomly seem like the car was driving with the Shift Plus on even though it wasn't. As in: hard shifts, chirping tires, etc. The traction control light would come on too. But then I'd turn the car off then on and it'd be fine. I have since removed it, and it hasn't really seem to have done it recently. I added my header/dp last week and ran it for a few days sans cat. I got the normal CEL, but nothing more. I added a cat, and that fixed the CEL, but now I have the t/c light and hard shifting like I had with the Shift Plus. I'm sure neither are related, but why is it doing that? Is there any easy way to fix it? I had them scan and clear the ECU to remove the CEL, but the t/c light is still on. I could care less if I had traction on, but the hard shifting is getting annoying. Really annoying. I'm just afraid of it damaging something. I am getting HPT done in a week or so. Will that correct the problem? How about pulling the battery positive for 10 minutes for a hard reset? Anything?

Also, for some reason my AFR isn't reading anymore. I have it hooked into the wire coming from the ECU like it says. It used to read, but now that I swapped the header/dp, it doesn't. It comes on for a second and shuts off. WTF??

Please, ANYONE, help me.. lol This is getting stupid..

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

I really appreciate the lack of help.

bryce712

everything bolted up right and tight ? cleaned the maf lately ?

i had the same issue with the gm intake. they looked at it and the maf needed cleaning and an intake repositioning the tube kinda fell out of place.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

I've cleaned the TB several times lately, but never really messed with the MAF. But why would that cause the car to shift hard..? Shitty acceleration or response I could maybe understand, but bad shifting..?

bryce712

thats just what they told me. they said it delt with the dirty maf and the tube being a just a smidge. good luck to ya

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting really irritated with these 100% computer controlled cars. I replaced the damn header and downpipe and you'd think I tried to swap a ******* LS1 in there with all the frickin' computer bullshit.

bryce712

and it sucks they are only getting worse lol

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

Will doing HPT help reset this at all? After HPT I'm done modding this thing.

scottyguy401

I've been getting that too. Randomly when I start my car up, it will say service traction, and the traction control will be disabled. If I put in drive, there's the big clunk, like when I had the b&m shift + in. It also shifts hard like the shift + when I'm driving. My only remedy for it is to turn the car off and start her back up. It goes away and doesn't come back for a day or 2.

I'm curious as to why it's doing this too. It only started doing this after I supercharged my car too, so I'm guessing that has something to do with it, or maybe the tune

bryce712

ive never delt with hpt before so i cant give you an honest answer bro sorry

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

if the tractions control light is on, you have a code in the abs system or the pcm. hard shifting is a failsafe strategy for the transmission, if it picks up a slip or other fault it will shift hard to protect the transmission. take it somewere that can scan it with a proper scan tool (not with a cheap code reader) and go from there.

another thing, does your intake use an oil coated filter (like a K&N)??? if so, make sure its not over-oiled and clean your maf. your maf is part of what is needed to calculate engine load and your transmission shifting is based on engine load.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

It's an Injen CAI with a factory-oiled K&N cone.. What's the proper way to go about cleaning the MAF? I'll do that first and see what happens. Then if it still does it, I'll take it to the dealer..

It's funny how the hard shifting "protects" the transmission. It feels like it's destroying it.

Any any idea why my AFR gauge isn't working anymore? Something to do with the )2 sensor now being IN the cat instead of after it..?

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

think of a smooth shift like slipping the clutch in a manual (thats effectively what the clutch packs are doing). slipping the clutch too much wears it out pretty bad. A hard shift by the auto will prevent this, and make the trans last longer.

listen to sharkey. he's a transmission god after all

OO...u should get a dryflow filter too, or just try and remove as much oil as you can from the one you already have

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

I'm not just gonna stop using a 50 dollar filter..? lol Is there any way to de-oil it? I've had it on there for like a year.. Just had the stock Injen filter on for awhile, but it was dirty, so I got the K&N. Switched back to the Injen over winter, but am now back to the K&N..

How should I go about cleaning the MAF? Don't want to jack it up worse..

So technically, eventhough it feels horrible, the hard shifting is technically GOOD for the car..?? That seems insane. It feels like my transmission is going to fall off.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

clean the maf with electronics cleaner, or you can buy specific stuff for cleaning maf's (its called mass air flow cleaner, made by crc) http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.html . id highly recomend swapping back to a dryflow filter, gm has a bullitin about this exact issue on trucks, and it stems from an oil type filter. if you insist on using the k&n at least clean it very well and lightly oil it.

the pcm will command max line pressure to prevent clutch slippage, something that can burn the tranny up in a very short time. shifts at max line pressure arent great either, however they wont damage the tranny instantly like slipping. what can happen from exessivly high pressure for a long time is the splined on the clutch plates start to hammer out and eventualy strip out.

what happened in the late 70s is people started wanting soft shifts, so car makers made transmissions shift soft so it wasnt as noticable. the only way to do this is make the shift take longer, just like slipping the clutch in a manual. this created lots of problems in the 80s but with electronic transmissions of the 90s they started being able to control the shift feel better and make the transmissions last longer. basicly, the clutches are still slipping for a shift to be soft, however with electronic pressure control the pcm will command less pressure during the shift and crank it back up after the shift is complete, this will allow it to hold up.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

So I spent the 8 bucks on the MAF cleaner and there's no difference. What now..?

Dave7417

I experienced the identical problem 5 or 6 years ago with a bone stock GM 4 speed auto. It was random, and the dealer had difficulty retrieving the codes for some reason, because as soon as I shut the engine off, the trans returned to normal operation and all codes disappeared. They ended up replacing the trans with used unit under warranty.

I should still have the work order/bill in my tax records. I'll have a look for it sometime this weekend and post again.

Yup, that's the same issue.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

See, it used to be that way. It'd randomly pop on, but go off when I turned the car off. Now it just says on and never turns off. The only thing I did was replace the header and down-pipe with a ZZP one. I ran it for a few days without a cat, but now that I added a cat, that's when the t/c and shifting issue came up.

WTF..??

shawn672

It's not the TB or MAF
Your issue is with the lines you spliced, they are not making good contact

I've been through this MANY times before, with my own car and others. If the tranny wires are shorting or not making good contact, your car will act like shiftplus stage2, even if you don't have a shiftplus...
If you need more help, pm me

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

I thought the same thing also, so I went under there, and electrical tape wrapped the two exposed wires that I spliced into. Anything else I can do? It's a really hard area to get to with hoses and stuff surrounding, so if I knew what I had to do, that'd help quite a bit. This is very annoying, and I want it fixed before I get a tune. Well, and before I destroy my transmission or motor mounts. Any more help would be greatly appreciated.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

cut the wires where you slpiced them and solder them back together. When you spliced them together, you probably cut through some of the wires running through the loom, making the connection weaker.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

So in other words, actually snip both wires and completely and splice connect two new wire extension pieces in between both ends on each wire? Yeah, it looks like the one is totally solid, but the other may be a little thinner and missing a couple strands. Could that've done it? If so, that makes total sense. Also explains why sometimes it used to come on randomly. But the issue is that lately, it just never goes off..

shawn672

yup, there is a loom (bundle) of wires, and if too many of them are not touching each other....Not making good contact

winner winner chicken dinner

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

That would explain it. I'll try that out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

averagewhiteboy

iTrader: (1)

Update Post:

So, I went ahead and did what was suggested. I bought wire, I removed the old tape, hacked the cords, spliced the new wire extensions in, and retaped everything. Same. Exactly the damn same. And that section of wires is damn hard to get to with huge hands. I mean, at least it drives, but I'm getting really irritated at this hard shifting and getting worried that it will do damage to other things soon. I'm trying my hardest to cover all of my bases before going to the dealer, but I'm running out of bases!!

However!!

I thought of something.. I ran it as a straight pipe for a few days. It obviously threw lots of codes. Will the computer need not only cleared but actually reset or something? The reason I ask is because when I went over to have a cat welded on, as soon as I got that done, this problem started. Literally. I got back in the car after picking the keys back up and it started. I was watching him do it though. So it was all legit. Both of my 02 sensors are in and good, but the rear one is now IN the cat, and not after it. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it? My main reason for thinking it's 02 sensor related is because I have a narrowband air/fuel gauge that stopped working as soon as I swapped the header/dp combo initially. Could one of the sensors maybe be damaged and thus not letting it read right? It clearly seems to be in some sort of a big limp mode from not only the hard shifting but also it expanding the gears out more and being about 5 mpg down. 22 average now instead of 27 with the same driving.

Bad 02 sensor? Computer reflash? Anything? I am running out of ideas. Everything is plugged in and all fuses are good too. Help!!!!!

Another update. When I reconnected the front 02 sensor plug, my afr started working again. Sorta. It reads better than before. But sometimes it drops off totally (no more reading) but then it quickly comes back on. While at idle it bounces back and forth like a narrowband does. But while at WOT it's to the right at rich (I think is what's on the right), then when I back off it drops to the left (lean maybe?) and then hovers in the middle while cruising. So it actually reads better than before. But why's it drop off sometime?still bad 02 connection or something? I'm totally running out of ideas. Help!!