KY Clutch - Official Release!
#179
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
One Week Review
So it's been a week since install of my Stage 3 KY clutch and about 260ish miles (I think), so I'm halfway through the break-in period.
I gotta say, the clutch has only been getting better as far as feel and engagement. I can tell that the more it get broken in the smoother the engagement is. I think I notice more of the vibrations and "chatter" because of the mounts I have but they are very tolerable and not even close to what I thought it would have been.
I did get on it once today in 3rd because I was pullin gout of an emergency situation on the highway during my lunch break and the clutch felt nice and strong. No slip what so ever and it shifts perfect.
A great clutch.
I can't wait until I break it in fully and see what I can do at the track in April.
I gotta say, the clutch has only been getting better as far as feel and engagement. I can tell that the more it get broken in the smoother the engagement is. I think I notice more of the vibrations and "chatter" because of the mounts I have but they are very tolerable and not even close to what I thought it would have been.
I did get on it once today in 3rd because I was pullin gout of an emergency situation on the highway during my lunch break and the clutch felt nice and strong. No slip what so ever and it shifts perfect.
A great clutch.
I can't wait until I break it in fully and see what I can do at the track in April.
#190
Member
2009 TC GMS1. 52k miles and stock clutch on its way out. Slipping about 300rpms in 3rd gear at 3k rmps.
Not doing any other modifications to the car other than the GMS1 which has been on for 30k miles. Supposed 320tq from GMS1. Do not want any chatter, occasional spirited driver. Should I install Stage 1 KY Clutch? Or Stage 2?
Not doing any other modifications to the car other than the GMS1 which has been on for 30k miles. Supposed 320tq from GMS1. Do not want any chatter, occasional spirited driver. Should I install Stage 1 KY Clutch? Or Stage 2?
#191
2009 TC GMS1. 52k miles and stock clutch on its way out. Slipping about 300rpms in 3rd gear at 3k rmps.
Not doing any other modifications to the car other than the GMS1 which has been on for 30k miles. Supposed 320tq from GMS1. Do not want any chatter, occasional spirited driver. Should I install Stage 1 KY Clutch? Or Stage 2?
Not doing any other modifications to the car other than the GMS1 which has been on for 30k miles. Supposed 320tq from GMS1. Do not want any chatter, occasional spirited driver. Should I install Stage 1 KY Clutch? Or Stage 2?
Get the stage 2, but in all honesty why not pay just a few $ more and get a stage 3, which will hold so much more power, and will be able to take much more abuse.
#194
Member
If you have 2 cars that are exactly the same, except Car A has a Stage 2 clutch and Car B has a Stage 3 clutch, and both cars driven exactly the same, which clutch dies first? If the $37 price difference means x amount of miles before replacement is significantly greater, and driving characteristics are similar to one another, then that's where my money will be spent. If they both give out at the same time, the least expensive option wins.
#196
Unless GM comes out with more power adders for the LNF, nothing is going to be done to my car. It needs to be a DD, and I'm not down with fussing over modifying cars anymore. I'm going to take the Apple argument here, I just want this car to work.
If you have 2 cars that are exactly the same, except Car A has a Stage 2 clutch and Car B has a Stage 3 clutch, and both cars driven exactly the same, which clutch dies first? If the $37 price difference means x amount of miles before replacement is significantly greater, and driving characteristics are similar to one another, then that's where my money will be spent. If they both give out at the same time, the least expensive option wins.
If you have 2 cars that are exactly the same, except Car A has a Stage 2 clutch and Car B has a Stage 3 clutch, and both cars driven exactly the same, which clutch dies first? If the $37 price difference means x amount of miles before replacement is significantly greater, and driving characteristics are similar to one another, then that's where my money will be spent. If they both give out at the same time, the least expensive option wins.
Think of it this way, if you have a 50CC moped, you have it wide open, beating on it all the time, just to do the speed limit. Then you have a 600 cc bike, you barely have to get on to get up to speed. (same driving habits)
The 600 is not being abused (just like the stage 3, which is beefier) and should last longer.
Use this same thought process in other applications... same thing applies...
#197
Senior Member
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Join Date: 05-31-09
Location: Chesapeake, VA
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Stage 3 should last longer, as it will take the abuse better.
Think of it this way, if you have a 50CC moped, you have it wide open, beating on it all the time, just to do the speed limit. Then you have a 600 cc bike, you barely have to get on to get up to speed. (same driving habits)
The 600 is not being abused (just like the stage 3, which is beefier) and should last longer.
Use this same thought process in other applications... same thing applies...
Think of it this way, if you have a 50CC moped, you have it wide open, beating on it all the time, just to do the speed limit. Then you have a 600 cc bike, you barely have to get on to get up to speed. (same driving habits)
The 600 is not being abused (just like the stage 3, which is beefier) and should last longer.
Use this same thought process in other applications... same thing applies...