ashalle2

18 months ago i bought a 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS/TC 5 speed, since then it has been more of a money pit that my boat! It all started when my wife beat me in a drag race(Infiniti G37x) and i was to have none of that! So I bought a ZZP tune, ZZP short throw shifter mod and K&N air intake and that was enough to keep her behind me. All was well for about 6 months and my factory clutch was not having it anymore. I brought it to a local mechanic friend of mine and he installed a new South Bend Stage 4 clutch, throw out bearing and Fidanza Aluminum flywheel. This was great until about June when i started to notice a subtle whine coming from the transmission. So, yet again car went back to the shop(different mechanic who specializes in transmissions) and he put in a new LSD differential all new bearings, seals, synchronizers and the 3rd/4th shift fork. But, he couldn't get it right again. When i got the car back first gear was hard, 2nd gear grinds on upshift or down unless you double clutch as well as 5th and reverse were tricky too. I just put new shifter cables in it last night and that rectified 1st, 5th and reverse. 2nd gear still grinds every time unless you double clutch it. Any ideas what could possibly be going wrong? Im at whits end and am very hesitant to send it to another mechanic because no one seems to understand these cars. HELP!!

sc4door

iTrader: (8)

If it's grinding, that says synchros are bad

ashalle2

like i said synchros are BRAND NEW GM synchos...after i wrote this i went out and jacked up the front tires started the car and put it in 1st gear with the car running and clutch pushed to the floor, front tires started spinning.....

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Perhoas the guy who built did it incorrectly. I would guess the thired gear spacer which is a crush sleeve was not replaced or under/orver torqued. Screwed, sad to say. OR and UNLESS you are not getting full clutch disengagement, which is common with some aftermarket clutches. A ZZP adjustable m/cyl may help. OR not. Good luck
ps The Synchros never go. The blocker rings get damaged.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Contact Powell Race Shop on here, send transmission to him he'll get it taken care of correctly

sc4door

iTrader: (8)

Unless you put them in yourself, you don't know they're brand new and that doesn't mean they weren't installed wrong. But if your clutch isn't fully disengaging, that could be part of the problem. Does the pedal feel off at all?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Beat me to requesting him to contact you

ashalle2

i didn't install the synchros but i did purchase them myself, as far as the clutch pedal, it feels fine really. Im leaving toward TOB i find small drops of brake fluid from under my bell housing when i park at night, mechanic assured me "TOB is fine its just leaking out of the bottom of the bell housing from me bleeding the clutch lines." then I've been told there is no good reason for fluid to be in the bell housing EVER....whats right?

sc4door

iTrader: (8)

Should never leak out of the bell housing. The bleeder valve is on the distribution block on the top outside of the transmission. I could see maybe a few drops right after finishing the job from spills but not everyday from then on. Sounds like this guy is jerking you around

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

He should of wiped the fluid up or caught it in the first place.

OP listen to this guy, the engagement on the South Bend Stage 4 is a little different. The LNF i drove with it had the zzp adjustable rod and we had to run it out to bring the pedal up.

ashalle2

so maybe a zzp adjustable rod and a new TOB would probably do me right

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Maybe if the blockers aren't destroyed and the crush sleeve is good

ashalle2

that makes me want to vomit, kinda a lot of $ into this clutch/transmission for it to be still messed up

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

lets take the high road; its possible the distribution block is leaking and needs attention. TOB can be bad at the get go, I have now had two in the past 10 years, go bad.
wherever you are located, its key to know , so we can suggest alternative places to go to get your issues corrected, assuming the person who did the work will not fix it under some sort of warranty provision.

Typically leaking NEW TOB are just free parts replacement, unless the job was done at a GM dealer, in which case labor would be covered as well within a 90 day time frame iirc . cheers

ashalle2

wasnt done at the dealer, and TOB was replaced in december with my clutch

KMO43

I have a south bend stg 4 no clutch rod needed. If its leaking fluid look to the bleeder block and tob

ashalle2

would a leaking TOB or distribution block cause my clutch not to disengage completely?

KMO43

Yes 100%

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

If you said the clutch was dragging that very well could be why it grinds when you shift.

LNFwagonSS

I can count on one hand(with fingers to spare) how many people I know of who can build/rebuild the f35 correctly. The 1st-2nd gear assembly is another one of the many areas in the trans that can be easily damaged and assembled incorrectly. Most tranny shops are smart enough not to even offer reapair on these trans. I doubt its the clutch causing grinding, BUT I really hope Im wrong. Sry man, shitty deal.

ashalle2

Thank you everyone for your input. I'm going to replace tob and whatever else is leaking, bleed clutch back out and hope and pray that does it. When it doesn't.....tell me who CAN rebuild these transmissions, I am located in western New York. Thanks again

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Again, send it to John Powell of Powell Race Shop, he is on the guys who can rebuild it (or has a guy I forget which way it works)

ashalle2

Where is he located

KMO43

Ontario Canada I believe

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Port Perry Ontario