Losing pressure in clutch at WOT
#27
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I had this issue right after installing a KY Stage 3. Turns out puck clutches DO NOT mix well with a machine flywheel (2000 miles just smoothed it out) not only that but my neighbor is a old school OBD1 saab and Volvo tuner and said puck clutches and hydraulic TOB's don't go well together.
I did a highway run with an EVO and my clutch has no pressure it in with 2000 miles on a new clutch. Next day normal.... It was weird. Happened a few times until TOB burst on a launch, also did significant trans damage. Havent had time to pull it yet this month and figure out what the deal is.
I did a highway run with an EVO and my clutch has no pressure it in with 2000 miles on a new clutch. Next day normal.... It was weird. Happened a few times until TOB burst on a launch, also did significant trans damage. Havent had time to pull it yet this month and figure out what the deal is.
#28
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Little do people realize but, there's actually a check valve in the clutch system that is SUPPOSED to prevent bleed off like this. If you're losing massive amounts of clutch pedal pressure this is almost most certainly your issue. I'm not 100% sure when but at some point or another GM actually changed the design of the clutch line using a different style check valve system. Since replacing mine the pressure bleed off problem has all but gone away. I still have a very very slight bit of pressure bleed off, but it's no big deal. At least I'm able to now shift perfectly fine during hard 3rd-4th gear pulls. Long and short of it, a new TOB isn't going to solve anything.
The following users liked this post:
minizr1 (11-23-2015)
#29
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
Little do people realize but, there's actually a check valve in the clutch system that is SUPPOSED to prevent bleed off like this. If you're losing massive amounts of clutch pedal pressure this is almost most certainly your issue. I'm not 100% sure when but at some point or another GM actually changed the design of the clutch line using a different style check valve system. Since replacing mine the pressure bleed off problem has all but gone away. I still have a very very slight bit of pressure bleed off, but it's no big deal. At least I'm able to now shift perfectly fine during hard 3rd-4th gear pulls. Long and short of it, a new TOB isn't going to solve anything.
#31
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
The check valve is indeed located in the clutch line going from the distribution block to the MC. This was verified directly from GM engineers.
The following 2 users liked this post by 09CobaltSS1:
blueLNFftw (08-17-2015),
minizr1 (11-23-2015)
#33
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
For me though, I did as much research and digging as I could to find out where and if there was a check valve in the system. All sources pointed me to the line. I ordered a new one, noticed it was a completely different design that what originally came in the car and tried it out. No more pressure bleed off for this guy.
#38
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Losing pressure in clutch at WOT
Originally Posted by blueLNFftw
Replace it with this.
Cobalt Clutch Line Fits F23 and F35 Trans
20 minute job. You need to bleed the system though.
Cobalt Clutch Line Fits F23 and F35 Trans
20 minute job. You need to bleed the system though.
#40
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
That braided steel version doesn't have a check valve in it, so I can't really comment much on that. I will say this though. If you're replacing the line without removing the fuse box, it would greatly benefit you to have someone there with long skinny arms to reach back there for you. I've almost gotten my arm stuck in there before.. lol
As far as bleeding the clutch system, it's not difficult. By far the best thing to bleed with is some sort of power bleeder system. A hand vacuum pump works fine. The one I use in my shop is a pneumatic bleeder that uses shop air and you simply pull the trigger. It's a beautiful thing I tell ya.. haha
As far as bleeding the clutch system, it's not difficult. By far the best thing to bleed with is some sort of power bleeder system. A hand vacuum pump works fine. The one I use in my shop is a pneumatic bleeder that uses shop air and you simply pull the trigger. It's a beautiful thing I tell ya.. haha
#41
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
That braided steel version doesn't have a check valve in it, so I can't really comment much on that. I will say this though. If you're replacing the line without removing the fuse box, it would greatly benefit you to have someone there with long skinny arms to reach back there for you. I've almost gotten my arm stuck in there before.. lol
As far as bleeding the clutch system, it's not difficult. By far the best thing to bleed with is some sort of power bleeder system. A hand vacuum pump works fine. The one I use in my shop is a pneumatic bleeder that uses shop air and you simply pull the trigger. It's a beautiful thing I tell ya.. haha
As far as bleeding the clutch system, it's not difficult. By far the best thing to bleed with is some sort of power bleeder system. A hand vacuum pump works fine. The one I use in my shop is a pneumatic bleeder that uses shop air and you simply pull the trigger. It's a beautiful thing I tell ya.. haha
I use a hand vacuum pump and a radiator pressure test kit rented from Advance. Has a pressure fittings that fits the res on the cobalt perfectly.
I use the stainless line and there is no issue removing the valve to install it.
Its easier to remove the fuse box. The time you spend working around it is more than the time it takes to pull and install it in my experience.
#42
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Guys, I had this pressure bleed off after agressive highway runs on a Ky Stage 3 USING the Braided clutch line think i got it from dezod or TTR.
TOB then failed 2-3 months later. My car is just cursed... I talked to several people that resurfaced flywheels and even on LNF's and had no problems (none of which used the KY 6 puck which just hated a not 100% perfect flywheel)
TOB then failed 2-3 months later. My car is just cursed... I talked to several people that resurfaced flywheels and even on LNF's and had no problems (none of which used the KY 6 puck which just hated a not 100% perfect flywheel)
#43
Do you have any pics of your set up after you replaced everything with the braided lines?
#44
Senior Member
Well I will update this, replacing the TOB fixed the lose of clutch pressure.
Still not quite following this clutch cable check valve convo, you dont need a check valve?
Still not quite following this clutch cable check valve convo, you dont need a check valve?
#46
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
unless you are talking about a check valve between the reservoir and the master cylinder. that would make sense as it wouldn't allow for backflow into the reservoir if the master cylinder leaked by
#47
Senior Member
[QUOTE=blueLNFftw;7588438]No; you do not need it.
I removed mine and, honestly, it firms the pedal feel up a little and make it more constant.
You can see mine installed here.
Thanks for the pictures... man! this must be one of those LEAST talked about mods for cobalts. Ive had mine for 6 years and this is the first ive heard lol.
With my stage 4 I hope it firms things up a bit.
I removed mine and, honestly, it firms the pedal feel up a little and make it more constant.
You can see mine installed here.
Thanks for the pictures... man! this must be one of those LEAST talked about mods for cobalts. Ive had mine for 6 years and this is the first ive heard lol.
With my stage 4 I hope it firms things up a bit.
#48
Senior Member
Was having this issue....I saw this thread and change to a steel line which removed the check valve. Most the problem went away but I did some pulls back to back to back and the pressure faded again but came back quickly.
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