soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

Hey!

I am looking at adding some stuff to the car, and am hoping to not have to tap any wires;
I'd instead prefer to instead tap the fuse block.

I bought a couple of these to get both a 12v ignition source, and a 12v constant source;


I haven't got a clue which, if any of the fuse spots might be a constant 12v.

I would have already figured this out, but when I was going to tap into the fuse block, and test for constant versus ignition, my ignition lock seized on me in the "on" position.

I now have the car back on the road, and a fully functioning ignition tumbler.

Can someone help me?

(thanks in advance!)

EDIT: I did a couple searches for this information, and only came up with stereo questions - and nothing that would tell me a fuse block option for a constant 12v source - only some wires that I should tap...

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Sunroof fuse.

Kolt

What type of current you plan to run? Ill get you a pic and show what you can use

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I am not sure what kind of current is required;
But I'd wager it's all because of circuit board controllers;
I see no logic as to why an oil pressure gauge should need both a constant positive, and a switched positive - but the wiring instructions clearly show it.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

What gauge is it?

Sunroof will work.

It probably wants a switched 12v with ignition and a 12v switched lighting source.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

lighting is separate, and would use an ignition source, that Iwould have a small hidden switch to turn on off;

This clearly needs both a switched and constant 12v source - I did a couple more searches, and it looks like the door locks are a constant - hopefully that is at the interior fuse block;
I have already run all my wires and tucked them away beside the shifter awaiting time to figure where they will be terminated into the fuse block.

I have a tester, and was prepared to bruise myself looking for a constant 12v source - but had posted in hopes of someone telling me "go to xxx"

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

There is an empty slot I believe it is number 22. That's the one I used for my gauges.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

/\ thanks!
I'll look into that.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

Well incase anyone needs this info in the future, here are what should be safer points to tap into the interior fuseblock for a 12v constant in a 2009 Cobalt:

9 = stop lamp(10a)
23 = radio(15a)
24 = xm & onstar(10a)
26 = door locks(15a)
27 = interior lights(10a)

Hopefully this helps someone!

Dipped_Cobalt

so you are not splicing to tap into those?

heeter_33

Subd for boost gauge install.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I am going to use one of those fuse taps like the one pictured in post #1 to tap into the fuse panel;
From all my searches here, no one could say what was a 12v constant at the fuse box - most of my searches came up either with no replies to questions like this, or someone saying that you had to wire to the battery/engine compartment fuse box...

I didn't want to splice into any wires, and didn't want to tap something which might pose a problem down the road.
IMHO the door locks or the interior lights are the best to use - but location is critical - iirc #9 was a spot that should work easily enough...

heeter_33

Different gauge than the one you are talking about in this thread, but did you splice the dash light source for your boost gauge or did you somehow avoid that? I hate splicing into wires.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

yes.

I too hate cutting into factory wiring, but sometimes it's unavoidable;
I like to do changes that can be undone in an afternoon;
When you can't avoid it, the next best is to do a splice that should have no possible way to become an electrical issue down the road.
The small difference with adding a factory boost gauge, is that he plug for it can just be tucked away.

This gauge has LED backlighting, and although I could buy a specific dimmer switch for it, it would still need to be stand alone - so this gauge is getting 100% separate wiring.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

looks like you already got it taken care of but just in case i would go with the sunroof for ACC and radio for constant. Chances are your guage isnt going to do much of anything and you are fusing it seperately so that helps too but its always smart to tap into the most non essential things just in case you blow a fuse at the worst time

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I agree that sunroof is a good one for the 12v/switched;
I would probably be inclined to first use the door locks as the 12v/constant.

it all comes to when I'm terminating the wires the actual location of the fuse - and if the tap fits in easily enough.

Thanks

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

No luck with slot 22?? Is it not un-used in the 2009 SS?

I've had my aeroforce/wideband hooked up to it for many years.

Crav3

iTrader: (1)

I dont think radio is constant. I hooked up my brothera wideband to radio and it only comes on with the key