because race car

So a couple of weeks ago. 09 SS turbo, was accelerating (not full throttle) and at around 4000rpm heard a psshh sounds and the car went into limp mode. No leaking fliud, no bad sounds, sounds fine. But would not go into boost. Oil pressure light was on at first but went off, once we cleared the codes, it would start fine, but as soon as i let off the gas it shuts down like i turned the key.

So I took it to a shop and they replaced the MAF sensor , coolant tempt sensor, and some bad wires. So now it runs fine, except for the fact it wont go into boost.

It still has an engine code for the MAF. And it accelerates like a prius. Im going to be doing a boost leak test, but im wondering if anyone has any ideas as my money is running out while om fixing this.

MODS:

ZZP downpipe catless woth muffler delete
Hp tuned 24psi
Megan racing springs

cluelessk

Codes you cleared would probably help.

You might of cracked your stock charge piping. Especially on 24lbs.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

This, I'm betting there is a serious crack in a pipe or the intercooler.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Bet it's the endtanks.

because race car

On my day off ill lift her up and take a look at the endtanks. Since its running right now (even without boost) i'm avoiding clearing the po101 code

cobaltssdude420

Could be a turbo block off plate. I got the zzp catless downpipe and a bov installed, tuned and they found a boost leak. So now I need a $50 block off plate that costs $92 for shipping for **** sakes

because race car

So a bit of an update, I picked up a code scanner incase this happens again so I can know what is going on. Today I took her to a shop that is known for being good with turbos. Still running the p0101 so they tested the MAF, that wasn't the issue.

Next they ran a boost leak test, nothing. Then a smoke test, again nothing. They also check the wastegate and a few other things along that way, and were stumped. So next week they're having another mechanic look at it for the day while he looks up more information about these cars.

I'm suspecting it is a wiring issue, anyone got ideas?

cobaltssdude420

Where are you in Canada?

because race car

PEI.. ******* rust belt. Also now the damned think dips from 400 - 1400 at idle every few minutes.

because race car

Another update, to see if the codes were from before the sensor was fixed, they were cleared. There were 2 p0101s, one thrown, one pending. Clearing the first, the light turned off, and the car still ran the same (pseudo limp mode with slightly erratic idle), clearing the second, the car went nuts. and is running hella rich and the RPM will go from 1100 - 400 and even just shut off, but giving it gas, it runs like before the codes were cleared.

Coldballss

could it be the maf? had this problem on my old subie turbo.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

That code is usually a boost leak

SaltyBalt

I'm guessing that its also the intercooler. On my other car, 2014 WRX, the oem intercooler is of similar style and when I threw a manual boost controller on and opened the injectors up to run 20 psi I blew the endtanks off at the crimp connections to the factory end tanks. Got myself a Process west verticooler and its been awesome ever since. Is there a similar welded metal end tank intercooler for these cars?

SaltyBalt

Oh hey another subaru fella! What subie did you have bro? I've got a 2014 WRX hatch as my daily right now but I intend to swap the cobalt to DD duty and build the wrx to be a track monster!

Coldballss

1992 Legacy Turbo beater. I'm not really a subie bro, just have the piece of junk for winter dd duty, when it works.

SaltyBalt

I feel ya. Subies always be breaking parts. Those old legacies have the most desired subaru engine though the ej22T. Factory closed deck and can take loads of boost. But I guess they also work well for dd duty. Hate to see it not enjoyed by someone who doesn't know what they have.

Coldballss

I know what i got, but just the body is all rusted out from winters up here so its a piece of chit. motor will get saved when it goes to the scrapper.

SaltyBalt

Oh awesome! good to hear that! Let me know when you pull that engine! I may want to have a spare block once I go racecar on the WRX!

Coldballss

yeah no. its mine. for my future build.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Holy fail, nice try trolling must be butt hurt from a race.

SaltyBalt

Not sure what you're talking about? The endtanks of the intercooler blow off quite easily with the plastic endtanks crimped to the metal core even when pushing stock boost levels. Just speaking from personal experience and it looks like the intercoolers on these are metal cores with similarly crimped plastic end tanks. The crimps are weak.

Not butthurt about any races at all either. Haven't had the WRX on track yet. Still a street car to have fun with through mountain roads.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

just go drive your wrx and leave this forum, you're only here to try to troll and you're really bad at it.

ThoR294

my 14 wrx had rod knock at 9k miles. All I needed was a new short block. way easier than a new intercooler thats for sure

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I thought rod knock and piston slap was factory standard on the wrx

ThoR294

Yup. Friend has 14 sti hatch, he has had the motor replaced twice, new turbo. car had 38k miles 1st motor 2nd motor at 41k. he is on his 3rd motor now. 225 miles later, cylinder 4 misfire. needs another motor