jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

If it turns out my engine isn't completely fubared I will be installing a standalone IAT2 sensor that I will connect to a gauge. How close to the intake ports on the engine should I mount the sensor? Is it fine in a single cylinder runner?

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Also, does anyone know of a good trick to keep the timing chain tight on the lower sprocket while removing the head?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Dont even try, too much risk there to just save five minutes.

Evilfrog

Buy a two pod pillar.

southal cobalt

iTrader: (3)

I'm guessing this is on an lsj?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

l61

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

5 minutes? Is there a different way to access the bottom sprocket without taking the front engine cover and all the components on the front side of the engine?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

You just remove the balancer, tensioner, and chain cover, but do you really wanna risk timing an engine where you cant see the marks? 5 minutes was a little exaggerated.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Not I don't and it is coming off I guess. Should I replace water pump or oil pump while I am in there? Original parts with ~100,000 miles. Any maintenance items I should take care of while it's all apart?



Are there any tricks to inspecting a head gasket to check for coolant leaks? What's the best way to prep the head for a good seal when I go back on?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Ive never seen an oil pump failure, but i know jeff sells low mile ones, same with water pumps, the newer style has a metal impellar instead of plastic.

For starters on the headgasket i would use a gm one. Specifically the lsj one, fits the l61 as well.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

LSJ gasket is what I ended up ordering this time luckily. Meant to put oem on the first time, obviously didn't. The coating on this one was peeling off in many places.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

So are those plugs on the front of the block something I can take out to install an oil pressure gauge?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Yes

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

On the intake machined surface, is it only the middle slot that is for PCV? Does the slot between 1 & 2 go anywhere? Because I am using an LSJ intake the PCV ports do not match up. The LSJ gasket doesn't seal around the L61 PCV port.


Should I seal these ports up with something? The only other option, I think, would be to try and machine a slot on the intake manifold's mating surface. Is the stock PCV operation that important? I have a breather filter. If stock PCV won't work would external PCV routing be an option?

LsCobalt07

iTrader: (2)

The middle slot is used for the PCV, I don't think that the slot on the left does anything. You can modify the IM gasket like this: 1240030026.jpg Photo by balmung92003 | Photobucket
I'm not completely sure how well this method retains the PCV system but I've had no issues so far.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

The slot on the left and right you can see right through, the center one is for pcv. I dremeled out a pcv path in the manifold flange and cut the gasket to fit, problem solved, just make sure your valve is good!

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Did you use any gasket maker or anything around the slot because technically it wouldn't be sealed perfectly that way as the gasket doesn't have a raised portion around your slot. You mean the valve in the manifold? How do you check that is functioning properly?

I have a phenolic spacer coming so I might see about just trying to machine that.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you can grind out the spacer too. The valve is a one way valve, just make sure it only works one way and isnt stuck. I used a paper intake gasket and rtv.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I need spots for AFR, BOOST, oil pressure, and IAT2 temp gauge.