For discussion of all things Powell!!
04-30-2013, 02:45 AM
#182
twas Andrew (rootbeer) who welded them.
as far as install and welding.
as far as install and welding.
Originally Posted by qwikredline
Prep with 3 inch 80 grit rotary sander
Trial fit, use clamps, draw the bar in at the front. No guarantee it wont move around... use a unibit and I suggest 7/16 holes at the rear the double wall structure is difficult
when done, the adhesive is applied to both the car pinch weld, the attachment points, the beams on the bolt pads and longitudinally along the beam where it will touch the pinch weld, and then along the installed and bolts UCR bars as a sort of "caulked seam" against the pinch weld and the beam.
Trial fit, use clamps, draw the bar in at the front. No guarantee it wont move around... use a unibit and I suggest 7/16 holes at the rear the double wall structure is difficult
when done, the adhesive is applied to both the car pinch weld, the attachment points, the beams on the bolt pads and longitudinally along the beam where it will touch the pinch weld, and then along the installed and bolts UCR bars as a sort of "caulked seam" against the pinch weld and the beam.
Originally Posted by qwikredline
I would add buy 3M, Norton or Lord adhesive , its called GM panel bonding adhesive, comes with two packages ( sealant and catylyst) which are mixed as they are squirted out of a two barrelled "gun" . I buy the 45 minute curing stuff, the 5 minute stuff would harden before I got a chance to turn around (lol)
I am now convinced that whereever you live, Rhino liner in a jiggle can would be the best stuff to use on the bars to prevent deterioration from under car salt and debris attacks.
I also now believe that taking the seats out, removing the lower seat belt attachment so you can lift the carpet is worth the effort, as damage from drilling can result. The seats are easy; unhook seat belt from the guide, remove the lower seat belt attachment, disconnect the under seat connector, lift up at the back of the seat and pull back and then remove carefully seat back first out of the car (easier with a quad coupe Redline lol)
welding is also possible but you have to remove the carpet , wiring conduit that runs down the driver side of the car ( main harness) and any insulation on the floor that will certainly burn and melt otherwise.
I am now convinced that whereever you live, Rhino liner in a jiggle can would be the best stuff to use on the bars to prevent deterioration from under car salt and debris attacks.
I also now believe that taking the seats out, removing the lower seat belt attachment so you can lift the carpet is worth the effort, as damage from drilling can result. The seats are easy; unhook seat belt from the guide, remove the lower seat belt attachment, disconnect the under seat connector, lift up at the back of the seat and pull back and then remove carefully seat back first out of the car (easier with a quad coupe Redline lol)
welding is also possible but you have to remove the carpet , wiring conduit that runs down the driver side of the car ( main harness) and any insulation on the floor that will certainly burn and melt otherwise.
05-01-2013, 01:29 PM
#185
POWELL YYZ REPLACEMENT SPRINGS.
We sat down with the Hyperco engineer, and while it all took time, the result was amazing.
We came up with a variable rate spring with really high solid loads ( measure of spring compression with all coils touching) compared to anything out there. My design goals were simple; I wanted a lot more spring at full load for good cornering capability with more rate for the rear spring, this is a front drive car. And I wanted a good ride that would not punish people for having a performance spring with a lower ride height. But not so low as to hammer the underneath of the car on speed bumps. So here they are:
Made of high grade silicone spring wire.
Rides better than stock at low speed.
Way better handling over all.
Specification :
Blue pc finish, zinc phosphate prewash before powdercoating. Shotpeened before powdercoating and prewash.
V.1 came out like this:
FRONT SPRING:
SPRING IS PROGRESSIVE IN RATE: 138#/IN rate for first 5.5 of deflection, then progressively rising to a 265#/in rate
1st check load: 762# +/- 30# @6.480 spring height
2nd check load : 993# +/- 40# @ 5.280 spring height
Calculated solid height is 3.063
REAR SPRING:
SPRING IS PROGRESSIVE RATE: 105#/IN rate for first 4.6 of deflection, then progressively rising to a 325#/in final rate
1st check load: 479# +/- 20# @ 7.389 spring height
2nd check load: 929# +/- 35# @ 5.389 spring height
Calculated solid height is 3.738
Note: final rate occurs beyond the second load check height in compression and is a reference.
V.2 came out like this.
Progressive rate spring remains the same as V.1 ; unique to the aftermarket for Cobalt. Great ride, and amazing on track performance.
The v. 2 were assigned new part numbers. The front spring is CB003.FSA and the rear spring is CB004.RSA.
FRONT:0.532 wire diameter (High Tensile Chrome Silicon spring wire), nominal 11.625 Free length. Variable rate 138/265#/in
REAR: 0.485 wire diameter (High Tensile Chrome Silicon spring wire), nominal 11.250 free length. Variable rate 105/325#/in
Trim height: compared to v1, drop additional 0.350-0.400Front and 0.750 Rear
MEASURED FROM GROUND TO FENDER WE GET, CONSERVATIVELY:
V.1 : 26.0 FRONT AND 27.0 REAR
V.2 25.6 FRONT 26.25 REAR
WARRANTY:
LIFETIME FOR :
BREAKAGE . ORIGINAL OWNER ,ORIGINAL INSTALLED CAR.
PROOF OF PURCHASE AND VIN REGISTRATION , ANNUAL RUST PROOFING APPLICATION REQUIRED. Please provide VIN when paying for this deal, it will make your warranty registration easier.
05-01-2013, 01:52 PM
#186
Senior Member
[QUOTE=Powell Race Parts;7023675]spring rates are quoted on this site GDS but as boring as it becomes, I will post them again. ExSoccer purchased from Frylock T3 springs which are stiffer than YYZ and linear.
sorry for having you repost it, i tried searching for them. but would you need to run a different strut? im just looking for something to keep the rear from squatting so much off a launch. i've heard good things about yours thats why im asking, getting ready to make some purchases when i come home, just want everything ready to go and know what i want/need. lol.
sorry for having you repost it, i tried searching for them. but would you need to run a different strut? im just looking for something to keep the rear from squatting so much off a launch. i've heard good things about yours thats why im asking, getting ready to make some purchases when i come home, just want everything ready to go and know what i want/need. lol.
05-01-2013, 05:52 PM
#189
not too sure because im not a fan of the footballs thing despite if it works or not. id rather use drag bags... the stiffer the spring the better.... the scca t3 spring would be best for stiffness. either way it wont stop all your weight transfer for drag racing. you need a really drastic setup to make a fwd car hook good.
05-01-2013, 06:15 PM
#190
[QUOTE=dcrep06;7023710]
Our springs stop a lot of that rear squat no doubt. Stock struts are fine. Adjustable Konis would be better. Its all an issue of how much money to spend for what result. With the T3 springs you would be stiffer but hate your car.
spring rates are quoted on this site GDS but as boring as it becomes, I will post them again. ExSoccer purchased from Frylock T3 springs which are stiffer than YYZ and linear.
sorry for having you repost it, i tried searching for them. but would you need to run a different strut? im just looking for something to keep the rear from squatting so much off a launch. i've heard good things about yours thats why im asking, getting ready to make some purchases when i come home, just want everything ready to go and know what i want/need. lol.
sorry for having you repost it, i tried searching for them. but would you need to run a different strut? im just looking for something to keep the rear from squatting so much off a launch. i've heard good things about yours thats why im asking, getting ready to make some purchases when i come home, just want everything ready to go and know what i want/need. lol.
05-01-2013, 06:19 PM
#191
John,
I can't seem to find anybody local who is willing to polish my factory wheels. Knowing you're very knowledgeable in powder coating, is it possible to get a polished look with powder coating? There are a couple local powder coating shops. I would like your recommendations first though.
I can't seem to find anybody local who is willing to polish my factory wheels. Knowing you're very knowledgeable in powder coating, is it possible to get a polished look with powder coating? There are a couple local powder coating shops. I would like your recommendations first though.
05-01-2013, 06:32 PM
#192
John,
I can't seem to find anybody local who is willing to polish my factory wheels. Knowing you're very knowledgeable in powder coating, is it possible to get a polished look with powder coating? There are a couple local powder coating shops. I would like your recommendations first though.
I can't seem to find anybody local who is willing to polish my factory wheels. Knowing you're very knowledgeable in powder coating, is it possible to get a polished look with powder coating? There are a couple local powder coating shops. I would like your recommendations first though.
Powdercoat chrome is close, but no cigar. I can post pictures of it if you wish....let me see where you live....
South Mississippi... gotta be a place nearby that polishes. what town you in?
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 05-01-2013 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-01-2013, 07:35 PM
#194
I live in Wiggins, MS. I would love to have Junior do the polishing, but I'm afraid to ask for a quote from him to have them shipped there, polished, and shipped back.
I definitely prefer a true polishing over powder coating. I've tried my hand at it, and let's just say the piece ended up covered in gloss black paint.
I definitely prefer a true polishing over powder coating. I've tried my hand at it, and let's just say the piece ended up covered in gloss black paint.
Could just snag a set of Humvee springs 
05-01-2013, 07:52 PM
#196
I live in Wiggins, MS. I would love to have Junior do the polishing, but I'm afraid to ask for a quote from him to have them shipped there, polished, and shipped back.
I definitely prefer a true polishing over powder coating. I've tried my hand at it, and let's just say the piece ended up covered in gloss black paint.
I definitely prefer a true polishing over powder coating. I've tried my hand at it, and let's just say the piece ended up covered in gloss black paint.
try kwicksilver wheel straightening in Gulfport and see if they know anyone, they are 45 minutes away from you; class 8 tractors love getting their alloys polished, and the guys generally do a good job, truckers are particular. I have had truck wheels polished well on my rigs in Wildwood Fla, and Phoenix AZ and places in between.
228 967 1987
dlipscomb@kwicksilverusa.com
I cant help it if they cant spell Qwik as in Qwikredline lol. But they have a website sounds a lead worth chasing down.
