All Engines: Fuel Filter Change How-To with pictures
#76
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Thread Starter
You shouldn't need to twist anything. You just have to push the disconnect tool pretty hard while supporting the line and with the other hand push and pull on the fuel filter. It will come off with alittle bit of work. Dont' get too rough on it as you don't want to bend or break any of the fuel lines or fittings.
Be careful too, when the filter comes off some gas will spill out so don't have your face under the filter.
Be careful too, when the filter comes off some gas will spill out so don't have your face under the filter.
#77
You shouldn't need to twist anything. You just have to push the disconnect tool pretty hard while supporting the line and with the other hand push and pull on the fuel filter. It will come off with alittle bit of work. Dont' get too rough on it as you don't want to bend or break any of the fuel lines or fittings.
Be careful too, when the filter comes off some gas will spill out so don't have your face under the filter.
Be careful too, when the filter comes off some gas will spill out so don't have your face under the filter.
Thanks for the heads up on not putting my head underneath it!! Haha. I'll try that out next weekend most likely. Thanks again!
#78
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ha that **** happened to me, i did a fireman roll out from under the car so fast. now theres a big dark mark in the drivway. whoops. damn thing wouldnt de pressurize anyway.
#80
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Thread Starter
Every car is different. It should be fairly easy to find the depressurization proceedure and find out where the fuel filter is. My suggestion is to go do some google searches or go ask on the mustang forums they should be able to let you know the proceedure and what exact parts you will need to get the filter change done.
#81
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I followed the depressurized write up for ours and it wouldnt work on my car for some reason. It started up real rough but then smoothed out and ran fine for ten mins with the relay in my hand. i was like wtf...... then i just said f it and did it anyway. lol
#82
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Every car is different. It should be fairly easy to find the depressurization proceedure and find out where the fuel filter is. My suggestion is to go do some google searches or go ask on the mustang forums they should be able to let you know the proceedure and what exact parts you will need to get the filter change done.
#83
#84
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Thread Starter
Well I don't know why you had problems. There have been a few people who have said their cars would sputter but keep running as well. I think for most people this works just fine and even if the car doesn't die at least it depressurized some.
#85
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then you pulled the wrong relay or your car is wierd.
#90
Just changed mine at 34k. The gas that came out was nice and clean, almost a blue like tint to it. Idk about you guys, but getting the 2 lines off of the back of the filter was a bitch. And I also pulled the relay for the fuel pump and had the car continue to run. So I gave up after like 2-3 min and shut it off. Pulled one of the lines and got hosed down with gas.
I got the the Autozone filter, it is made by a company called "luberfiner" and is not a bad filter at all. I sell them at my job, just about EVERY 18 wheeler, backhoe, farm tractor etc, uses Luberfiner filters. It was only like $13 bucks, and is just as good as the AcDelco one.
I got the the Autozone filter, it is made by a company called "luberfiner" and is not a bad filter at all. I sell them at my job, just about EVERY 18 wheeler, backhoe, farm tractor etc, uses Luberfiner filters. It was only like $13 bucks, and is just as good as the AcDelco one.
#92
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i was going to do this yesterday.
The 2 fuel lines for me are easy as i have quick disconnects on them. Courtesy of HAHN's turbo kit.
i decided not too since i didnt have the fuel line removal tool.
The 2 fuel lines for me are easy as i have quick disconnects on them. Courtesy of HAHN's turbo kit.
i decided not too since i didnt have the fuel line removal tool.
#95
Go to any parts store and ask for a Fuel Line Quick disconnect tool. Mine was less than $2, make sure you get the 3/8" one.
Last edited by mrniceguy8211; 05-31-2008 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#99
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Thanks for this. I changed my fuel filter today at 29,379 myself since I found these directions. Some notes and recommendations:
Note the relay location and put it right back in as soon as the car shuts off. That way you'll have no problems. Mine shut right down, I put the relay right back in, and all was well.
I usually buy stuff at Advance, but there is an Autozone next door so I went there since I knew it was $14.99 from this thread. It's the same friggin fiter as the one the factory put in if you look at it. Don't waste your money on dealer parts. This is true in almost all instances for regular parts like this. (hoses, belts, filters, etc.)
I bought the quick disconnect 6 pack as pictured in this thread. The one that fits is the second to the smallest one. There is no size marking on the one I got. I got it at Autozone for $9.99. The one marked 1/2 inch is a bit too big. You will struggle to get the correct one over the fuel line. It was a bitch to push that sucker in and get it to disconnect. Definitely not "quick". After I got it off, piece of cake. I did remove the other two lines first. They remove by pinching the blue colored plastic pieces together. Try to remember which lines they go on, but don't panic if you forget. The lines are different sizes and they should only fit one way.
I cleaned the fuel filter holder thing with engine degreaser, slid the new filter in, made the connections, and screwed it back in.
I then followed the recommended startup procedure and all was well. I did hear the whirring sound.
Not a ton of gas came out of either side. It was very clean on the outlet side. What are you guys doing to get crud pouring out I wonder? The only thing I do is use Berryman's B12 Chemtool in the metal can (http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=140) every few fillups. It's the best stuff. Just dump it in before you fill up. It's just like Seafoam only about a third of the price and better, I think. Their carb cleaner in the spray can is awesome also. Cleans any parts.
Note the relay location and put it right back in as soon as the car shuts off. That way you'll have no problems. Mine shut right down, I put the relay right back in, and all was well.
I usually buy stuff at Advance, but there is an Autozone next door so I went there since I knew it was $14.99 from this thread. It's the same friggin fiter as the one the factory put in if you look at it. Don't waste your money on dealer parts. This is true in almost all instances for regular parts like this. (hoses, belts, filters, etc.)
I bought the quick disconnect 6 pack as pictured in this thread. The one that fits is the second to the smallest one. There is no size marking on the one I got. I got it at Autozone for $9.99. The one marked 1/2 inch is a bit too big. You will struggle to get the correct one over the fuel line. It was a bitch to push that sucker in and get it to disconnect. Definitely not "quick". After I got it off, piece of cake. I did remove the other two lines first. They remove by pinching the blue colored plastic pieces together. Try to remember which lines they go on, but don't panic if you forget. The lines are different sizes and they should only fit one way.
I cleaned the fuel filter holder thing with engine degreaser, slid the new filter in, made the connections, and screwed it back in.
I then followed the recommended startup procedure and all was well. I did hear the whirring sound.
Not a ton of gas came out of either side. It was very clean on the outlet side. What are you guys doing to get crud pouring out I wonder? The only thing I do is use Berryman's B12 Chemtool in the metal can (http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=140) every few fillups. It's the best stuff. Just dump it in before you fill up. It's just like Seafoam only about a third of the price and better, I think. Their carb cleaner in the spray can is awesome also. Cleans any parts.