Rusty

Ok, I forgot to take pics when I installed my 2.85" pulley, injectors and maf-t last week because there are pulley how-to's and now spark plug how-to's and the maf-t plug and play. So minus pictures, here goes. (if anyone has pics, post them!)

Tools/Parts required:
10mm socket (99% sure it was a 10mm)
14mm socket
torx socket (dont know exact size)
socket wrench
extension
new injectors
gloves
small cup (to catch leaking fuel)
old rags (protect other parts from getting fuel on)
motor oil (for lubrication)

How-To:
1) Gather all your parts, preferably do this outside so you don't leak fuel all over your garage! Put towels down on the ground and around the fuel rail as much as possible. Not a lot of fuel is going to come out, but you want to be safe!

2) Take off the plastic cover over the fuel rail with your torx socket. There are only two bolts. Now you can see the fuel rail.

3) There are three bolts holding the fuel rail to the block. One on the left, and two on the right. (one is almost directly above the other one on the right). Use the 10mm socket to take out these bolts.

4) Remove the banjo bolt on the coolant line running parallel to the fuel rail. Use the 14mm socket (might be 15mm, not 100%), remove the bolt. This way, that line is moveable and makes getting everything out a little bit easier. You can go as far as removing the line, but there are a few more bolts to the right of the block. I just loosened it to get around it.

5) Unclip the wiring harness from the injectors. If you are using a new wiring harness, you might as well just remove the old harness at this point.

6) Wiggle the fuel rail left to right and pull gently. Make sure all three bolts are removed. The fuel rail/injectors should come out relatively easy with just a little effort. You don't want to pull too hard, but don't baby it either. You will feel it. The injectors are clipped to the fuel rail, so they should come right out with the fuel rail.

7) Take off the rubber insulators that go around the injectors inside the block. Some may be stuck in the block, while others may have stayed on the injectors. Take all four off and put them together.

REMINDER: Make sure you have a small cup handy and towels down. Up to this point fuel should not have leaked (maybe a few drips), but now is where the fuel will start coming out.

8) Holding the fuel rail upside down (so injectors face up), unclip the injector farthest to the end. Turn and pull to remove it from the fuel rail. Fuel may start leaking here so be ready with a cup and towels. Now, turn the fuel rail over and pour whatever fuel is there out from the fuel rail into the disposable cup. Not a whole lot should come out, but enough where a towel won't soak it all up.

9) Once you think there is little to no fuel left, remove the other injectors in the same fashion. Unclip. Twist and pull.

10) Take the rubber insulators and push them back into the block by themselves. This is the easiest way to install the new injectors in my opinion.

11) Now look at your new injectors. Make sure the o-rings are not loose or breaking/broken. Take a finger, dip it in oil and lube the o-rings on all your injectors.

12) Take the clips off the old injectors and put them on the new injectors. Simply slide off and slide on.

13) Install the new injectors into the fuel rail by twising and pushing until the clips lock into place. Check every injector that it is locked and in place.

14) Take the fuel rail with injectors and push (not too hard!) the injectors into the block. You will notice when they are completely in when the bolts on the fuel rail line up on the block.

15) Before putting any bolts back on, check to make sure you have enough clearance to plug the harness into each injector.

16) Bolt the fuel rail back down with the 3 bolts and make sure they are tight. Also, make sure to put the banjo bolt back in for the coolant line.

17) Plug in the new wiring harness if you have one. Make sure each connection 'clicks' when you plug it in to make sure it is securely in place.

18) Once you are satisfied with the way things sit, go ahead and start the car. If it runs, congratulations! Leave it running for a few minutes and take a look at the injectors. Make sure you don't see any fuel leaking out or feel/hear air coming out. This could be a sign of a bad o-ring!

19) If you are satisfied with the way it looks, go ahead and re-install the plastic fuel rail cover.

20) Grab a beer.....or 6.

If for some reason I'm back with the fuel rail off I'll take pictures, but for now this is all I got for you. Feel free to ask me questions. The injectors were a pain in the butt until I figured out to put the rubber insulators in the block first.

TCarter

did you feel any performance improvements?

Rusty

well i installed the injectors, 2.85" pulley, plugs, and maf-t all at the same time...so i'd say yea...there was an improvement

player_1

i'm thinking of installing the injectors and pulley my self, but I don't want the maf-T, do you think I'm safe to drive to a tuning shop, so they could dyno tune my car with HP Tuners?

patathSS

I used Vasoline instead of oil for lubing the O-rings. Good how-to. I can't think of anything else. One thing for me is I leaked next to know fuel. I leaked more coolant from the banjo bolt than i did fuel from the fuel rail. I just held it upside down and pulled the injectors.

patathSS

Yeah you are safe to drive. honestly, i would put the stuff on at the dyno if they will let you. otherwise, the only thing you will do is run rediculously rich. just stay out of PE mode and you'll be ok.

player_1

PE mode?

Rusty

i would be VERY hesitant about driving with bigger injectors and no tune whatsoever. you will run stupidly rich and if you give it enough throttle you could have major problems. it's not worth the risk. it is very easy to swap injectors, so swap them wherever it is you are going to get the tune. IMHO

player_1

cool, I think I'll do that then thanks guys

chevysalesman614

how long until you got it tuned? i'm about to install my injectors, then maybe my 2.9 in pulley on my stock tune... did you have problems till you got it tuned?

Rusty

i did not drive the car at all without a tune. i consulted scott from intense-racing as to what i should set the maf-t to given my setup. he gave me a baseline setting to work with and i tweaked it from there using my AEM UEGO wideband.

06SS ALL DAY

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WVsuperSS

i drive my 05 SS/SC balt daily with the stage 2 injectors and all that happens is i run a little richer? thats all just dont get into boost all the time! Another question though are there any special tensioner tools? cant get the 15mm wrench to loosen the belt all the way

Rusty

I used a big screwdriver to pry the tensioner down to remove the belt. The wrench doesn't really seem to work.

06SS ALL DAY

does anyone know which fuse is for the fuel pump? before i change out my injectors i want to run the lines dry... and clear out the injectors

anyone?

ShortStack

Whats funny is that everyone forgets about the little release valve on the top of the fuel rail..

my buddy got SPRAYED when he changed my injectors... just fyi... lol

06SS ALL DAY

ok i'll keep an eye out well not an eye out but you got me lol. thanks for the reminder though dood

chevysssc

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RooTBeeR

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subbed for later...like only an hour later haha

silvercobalt07

good rite up

insylem

I think it would be safe
I had stock tune and 2.85" pully, K&N Intake, and 42# injectors....
My car ran very rich
and threw code P0172, but it was alright. The Dyno was crap though haha

juice3

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great stuff! Will be doing this shortly!

roderick

question on the injectors if you dont put that rubber plug back onto the injector before you install them will it cause a problem? Like I have my injectors installed right now without that grey round insulator.

link_630

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trey ss

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