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All Engines: How-to Install header and downpipe

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Old 03-15-2013, 02:53 PM
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^what happened was going back in the bolts would not line up right so the bottom of the bolts physically touched the header so i couldnt get a socket around them. 3 bolts did this. 1 i got tight and i left one half tight, ended up being fine no leaks.

Now i need to know if getting a retune for $150 is actually going to do anything or just be a waste of money with 1.75 primaries on my 2.2..........
Old 04-18-2013, 01:45 PM
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Just ordered up some from ZZP. Should be a breeze with this. Thanks! Gotta love forums
Old 04-18-2013, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cobaltbuddy89
Just ordered up some from ZZP. Should be a breeze with this. Thanks! Gotta love forums
Glad its still helping people after all these years.
Old 04-23-2013, 11:42 AM
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did all my exhaust except for the header, getting to the bolts with the SAI pump in the way is a pain in the ass, we were running out of sunlight so we did the rest since everything was off. Should i just get the SAI pump out of the way next time?
Old 04-23-2013, 07:26 PM
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Got everything up and in. Headers were a bit of a hassle with only able to use the box end wrench for the top 4 nuts. Started up the car after and something just doesn't seem right. Cant seem to get a proper seal. Talked to a buddy and he thinks i should have a gasket for the headers... anyone have an idea? Also the car started sounding real putty when i hit the gas a little harder. Feel like im in an old pickup lol.
Old 04-26-2013, 07:31 PM
  #156  
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After talking to ZZP and them going on about how you dont need a gasket for the headers. Finally said screw it and went to Remflex Gaskets and wow that thing is thick Just fixed my audio system, but I dont think ill be listening to the radio anytime soon. Now that I have full exhaust. Sound is pure bliss! ZZP is a pain to install but Totally worth it. cant wait for a tune. Thx for the help!
Old 05-10-2013, 05:08 PM
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What is the final pattern of tightening down the header? Inner bolts to outter?

Last edited by BlackyK; 05-10-2013 at 06:09 PM.
Old 05-10-2013, 07:15 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by BlackyK
What is the final pattern of tightening down the header? Inner bolts to outter?
Its basically from the center working your way out in a cris cross motion.
Old 05-10-2013, 08:13 PM
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Sweet exactly what I did bad mab header install was a success. I think I have to tighten down the oxygen sensor another half a turn. Just a small amount of gases coming out after the test drive.
Old 06-26-2013, 08:48 AM
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since the bolt pattern is missing from the OP
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:37 AM
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great information! Although I didn't follow the tightening guide and haven't had an issue, I had 2 bolts I couldn't even tighten all the way! Still no leaks!
Old 06-28-2013, 07:01 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by riceburner
since the bolt pattern is missing from the OP
Nice find! Maybe a mod can add it back to the OP since my edit abilities have expired
Old 07-16-2013, 08:45 AM
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Finally installed my badmab yesterday, question is, my 09 LAP stock exhaust manifold didn't have the O2 on the header but near it, as in I didn't have to remove O2 for removal or install, should I leave O2 in the same place? It's at the bottom right of the header if standing in front of the car
Old 07-23-2013, 10:13 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by BronxKnight28
Finally installed my badmab yesterday, question is, my 09 LAP stock exhaust manifold didn't have the O2 on the header but near it, as in I didn't have to remove O2 for removal or install, should I leave O2 in the same place? It's at the bottom right of the header if standing in front of the car
In the early models, they had the 02 bung on the manifold, and on the later models they had 2 on the downpipe. Just leave it wherever it is and plug the other bung. or use it for a wideband.
Old 07-25-2013, 12:05 PM
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kk thanks, also thanks for the how to saved a lot of headaches
Old 08-24-2013, 09:58 AM
  #166  
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Interferance with the coolant line on driver side of engine

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...Header/061.jpg

I installed my header yesterday and noticed that the coolant port and the header tube on the drive side seems to be really close. the picture above is from the write up but just to give you guys an idea of what im talking about. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this or know of what im talking about and if there is something that should be done. I had thoughts of maybe using header wrap on just that tube to keep some heat away.

thanks for the input and help
Old 09-26-2013, 10:08 PM
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i'm just waiting for my OBX to come in. i bought it with the dp from frankc90(forum member), great guy to deal with. i originally searched this on my iphone and only got the first 2 steps. so, logged on to my pc. this forum is so much better on pc than on iphone.
anyways.this how to is simply awesome. very well done. even though it was done years ago.i have done this kind of stuff before, but on V8's. so i wanted to know the specifics. no question has been left unanswered.
again, great job. i'll repost after the job is done.
Old 10-04-2013, 06:59 AM
  #168  
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Header is here. Is it that much of an improvement to do the inside flange welds? Also on the inside of the drivers side of the head flange, there is a empty space running from the outlet. What's that?
Old 11-16-2013, 12:06 AM
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I see that at least one person had luck doing this install without even lifting the car! I'm hoping this is possible because my friend who has a lift in his garage is a wee bit flaky and I don't have much patience for that! lol
Old 12-07-2013, 01:09 AM
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Header and downpipe will be here this week, hopefully going to be installing and retuning for it. This guide gave me a good idea of what to do. Thanks
Old 12-07-2013, 02:57 AM
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I get my header tomorrow hopefully and this guide helped me know what sockets to get ready lol
Old 03-05-2014, 05:48 PM
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Will be using this soon.
Old 05-25-2014, 05:57 PM
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Great directions but it was still a horrible job. My car is a daily driver with 180,000km on it. Doesn't help that I drive in Toronto where instead of using salt they spray brine so you can watch your car rust in real-time.
Had to cut the bottom bolt holding on the top heat shield as well as the two stud's connecting the dp to the cat back. Bottom heat shield was missing from when some one put in a new flex pipe for me a few years ago.
A spark plug ratchet was a big help for getting at some of the more difficult bolts on the header.
That and my friends 1/4" torque wrench made the install part of this a cake walk.
Put in a badmab header and a 2.5" catted zzp downpipe. Feels a little stronger but that may just be my imagination because it's a little deeper sounding.
Old 10-11-2014, 02:25 PM
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This guide helped alot. I was able to bring my long tube in from the bottom with some wiggling I got into place. One stud broke but after closer examination it appears that it was broken the whole time from the factory. What do u guys think for now I don't ha e the tools to fix but in a few months I'll get that fixed along with my new clutch
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Old 04-10-2016, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by OBZ
TOOLS NEEDED
10MM RATCHET WRENCH
13MM DEEP SOCKET
14MM DEEP SOCKET & BOX END WRENCH
15MM DEEP SOCKET
13MM SOCKET & OPEN BOX END WRENCH
15MM SOCKET & OPEN BOX END WRENCH
JACK AND STANDS, OR RAMPS (or a car lift if your lucky)
RATCHET AND 6" & 3" EXTENSION
FLASHLIGHT
PENETRATING FLUID
O2 SENSOR SOCKET, OR 7/8 BOX END WRENCH

(Step 1)
Jack up the car and put on jack stands and make sure care is secure. Let the car cool down. (If you have a strut bar, this is a good time to remove it. Makes install much easier)
(Step 2)
Remove top and bottom heat shields. (Top = 3 13MM bolts) (Bottom = 1 15MM bolt & 10MM bolt) Remove the 10mm bolt from the top.


(Step 3)
Spray down all 10 bolts on the manifold, the 3 bolts on the manifold/downpipe and the 2 bolts on the downpipe/catback with penetrating fluid. (This will make this whole process much easier!)
(Step 4)
Unclip the oxygen sensors, There is a little blue tab that has to be pushed out which acts like a lock holding the 2 snaps together. The lower clip is to the downpipe sensor. The upper one is to the one on the manifold. (removing the downpipe makes this much easier, even if your just installing the header) Do not remove the sensor from the manifold yet. This will be done after the manifold is out.

(Step 5)
Remove the downpipe, Starting with the 2 rear 14MM bolts. You will need a wrench for the nut and the socket for the bolt.

Then use your 15 MM deep socket to remove the front 3 15MM nuts from the manifold/downpipe

Once you have the downpipe off the car, place it aside.
(Step 6)
Removing the manifold, There are 10, 13MM nuts holding on the manifold that need to be removed. All but the 3 middle bottom nuts can be removed from the top. The others are easier to remove from the bottom. (ON AUTO's MOST OF THE WORK CAN BE DONE FROM THE TOP) The very middle bottom nut is a PITA! You will need a long extension and go at it above the manifold but still from under the car.
(Here is a pic that gives you an idea of the nuts to be removed. Sorry I do not have any pics with the stock manifold on)

The nut circled is the PITA one

Once all nuts are removed, remove stock manifold and gasket. Inspect the head to be sure the area is clean and there are no obstructions that could cause leaks. Here is a pic of the manifold removed. (Very restrictive)

(Step 7)
Installing the header, Place the new gasket and the header on the head bolts and finger tighten down all 10, of the 13MM nuts so the header sits in place like so.. (DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF GASKET SEALER!)

Go in order of the diagram below, torquing all 10 nuts down to 106in/lbs, followed by a 2nd pass, again in order, and make sure they're all at 106in/lbs the 89in/lbs is for the exhaust shield studs.


(Step 8 )
Remove oxygen sensor from the stock manifold, Using either an O2 sensor socket (A 7/8 deep socket with a slit down the side for the wires) or simply a 7/8 box end wrench. Next, take the sensor and screw it into the bung on the header. And give it just a little "snug" with the 7/8 wrench.


(If installing a new downpipe, Repeat this step for the O2 sensor on the downpipe.)

(STEP 9)
Installing the downpipe, This particular header came with 3 double threaded bolts and 3 nuts like so..

You will want to screw these bolts into the bottom flange of the header so there is only about 1/8 inch of threads before the middle non threaded part of the bolt.

Next, pair the downpipe and header flanges together along with the new gasket. Finger tighten on all 3 of the 15MM nuts onto the bolts, and then tighten them with a ratchet. (Do not over tighten!) Be sure there are threads exposed on both sides, the header and beyond the nuts like this.

Once those bolts are tightened on, the rear downpipe flange should be pretty much mated up with the flange for the rest of the exhaust. Reinstall the 2, 14MM bolts.

(Step 10) Reclip both sensors, and reinstall the bottom heat shield. The top heat shield will take a little hand bending and manipulating but it can be reinstalled also, with the exception of one bolt.

Now start the car and check for leaks. If there are none, Go rip down the street and enjoy your new header!
Thanks for this man gonna install my vibrant performance headers and dp now on my 07 lsj just wondering if you had a photo of the diagram for the bolts as it did not pop up on this how to.

Please let me know thanks again !!


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