06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

How To Install Oil Pressure Gauge Into 2.0L LSJ

WARNING: (fine print) When following these directions, you will be removing the factory oil pressure sending unit. If you don't want to mess around with your warranty, then I wouldn't recommend this for you. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you, your car or your warranty.

Also I want to thank member MrCleanY0 for all his help with this. He was the first to do this, I just wanted to write a nice how-to for everyone to use.

With that out of the way, let's get the ball rolling...

First off, you will need the following items:

• Oil Pressure Gauge
• Autometer (or equivalent) Metric Adapter - Part #2278
• *Recommended - 16mm Copper Crush Washer

You will need the following tools:

• 2 Cresent Wrenches (or fixed size wrench, but I'm not sure on the size..I didn't have a large enough one)
• Shop light (really helps)
• Oil pan

1. First off, locate the factory oil pressure sending unit. It is located below and to the right of the oil filter. It is pointing out at about a 45 degree angle down, pointing toward the radiator. It can be a little tricky to find, as there is a tube running right in front of it.



2. Place an oil pan below the car to catch the oil that will fall out when you remove the sending unit.

3. Unclip the sending unit harness from the sending unit.

4. Now we want to remove the factory sending unit. Use your shop light here to help you see!!! To do this, use a cresent wrench (or fixed wrench) and loosen the sending unit. It took a good amount of force to break it free, but once I got past that, you can just unscrew it with your hand. When you get it off, be careful and save the crush washer that is on the end of the factory unit. If you can't find a new crush washer at a local store (I couldn't) then you will need to reuse this washer!!!

5. When you get the unit out, check to make sure there are two pieces. There should be the sending unit itself and an adapter which is what screws into the motor. Remove the adapter from the factory sending unit. This is what the factory sensor looks like with the adapter off of it:



6. Now we need to assemble the new sending unit. Take your new sending unit and wrap the threads in thread sealant to protect from leaks. Then take the Autometer metric adapter and screw it onto the new sending unit. Make sure to get this nice and tight. Next, put a copper crush washer on the end of the metric adapter and wrap the threads in thread sealant. Screw the factory adapter into the metric adapter. This shouldn't have to get as tight, just watch the crush washer and tighten it until it's flat. This is what you should have now:



7. Now would be a good time to hook up your signal wire to the end of the sending unit as it can be tricky to get to once you've installed it.

8. Place either your new crush washer you bought or the old crush washer onto the end of the factory adapter. Screw the new sending unit assembly into the motor and make sure to tighten it up really good with your wrench. You should feel the crush washer getting crushed as you tighten it up.

9. Run your signal wire to your gauge inside. I powered my gauge from the harness where the factory boost gauge plugs in.

10. I would throw a piece of cardboard on the floor now and start up the engine and watch the gauge in all it's glory. Check for any big leaks immediately on the cardboard. If everything looks good take it around the block and try and get the pressure built up a little to help check for leaks. If you are leaking, you probably just need to tighten it up a bit more...

11. Here is the finished product!





I hope this helps everyone. Again, thanks to MrCleanY0 for all his help with this!!

ALSO I have had no negative effects from removing the stock sending unit. No CELs, no issues. Just thought I would make that clear.

Boost Fr33k

about time some got one up! good write up. question, just two wires needed to hook up? signal and power?

DoubleClutchin_ION2

3

signal, power, ground

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

That is correct. You can pull power and ground off of the stock boost gauge connector if you want.

denniss

On a 2.2 or 2.4, the sender is very hard to reach from the top. Jack the car up and remove the starter (very easy) and you have WAY more room to work. I would think the 2.0 would be the same, but have not verified that.
Dennis

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

I really had no problems getting to it from the top. I think the engine bays are a little different between the two.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Might wanna do this one day. Also have a gauge like the one you used for sale if anyone wants it, check link in sig.

xskier874

i take it this is an electric gauge?

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

Yes, though the same install technique could be used for a mechanical gauge. Instead of hooking up the sending unit, you would just put the feed for the oil there.

blkssbolt

iTrader: (1)

what will happen if you leave the factory plug unplugged? will it not let you know about your oil example how long is left or is that sender for the supercharged?

Thank you and awesome write up.

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

It will throw a code, but it doesn't turn your CEL on or anything. I haven't noticed any adverse affects from it being unplugged. Its been 8 months now.

blkssbolt

iTrader: (1)

okay cool thank you, if the CEL hasn't been on how did you know it throws a code? That plug is it in the front of the engine?

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

I have an interceptor and just checked after I installed it to see if it threw one, and it just happened to do so.

Yeah it is in the front, near where the oil filter is.

MTchevy1

This may not apply to the cobalt, I've never looked at the sending unit on mine so please correct me if you know that I'm wrong... but I'm going to throw this out there anyway. Many GM oil pressure sending units have a safety feature that will cut power to the fuel pump if the pressure drops below a certain value, so that the car will lose fuel pressure and die out before the engine gets ruined. If our cars don't have an oil pressure gauge, then why is there a sending unit at all other than as a safety precaution?

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

I dunno but I have had mine out for 8 months with no issues.

MTchevy1

Hopefully if you ever lose oil pressure you'll notice it on the gauge fast enough! I wonder if you could tap into the stock harness to get the signal for the gauge.

06_SS_S/C

iTrader: (1)

I don't think so, I inquired about that when I was installed and the factory sending unit isn't compatible with the Autometer gauge.

MTchevy1

How about putting in a tee, so you have 2 sending units... one stock and one for the gauge?

btw your rims and drop look beautiful together!

ff_drift_lol

that a/c line is killing me. between that and the vacuum on the tb I can't get a damn open end in there! damn GM for not putting a factory gauge. I'm pissed I even got into this now.

secondstringsoldier

Just got done with installing mine tonight. If you remove that vacuum line it makes it a lot easier. Buying a 24mm open ended box wrench will help as the stock adapter is that size. Definitely attach the sending wire before you screw the assembly into the block. It's a pain in the ass to attach after if you don't.

terry.davis1

subscribed

chevy cobalt 08

I can still use this how to on a 2.4 correct?

berto

Very Nice..mind Sending It To Me In A Message For Future Refrence
Thanx

Shanman

so is there any room for a t fitting

redlineblueline

whats the part number on the gage used in the example?