2.0 LSJ Engine: How To: Install Spark Boot Spring Upgrade Kits (2.0 LSJ)
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How To: Install Spark Boot Spring Upgrade Kits (2.0 LSJ)
OK so as promised here's my "How To" on installing the spark boot spring upgrade kit on my SS/SC. Total time spent was about 10 minutes...
First I would like to take a second to show the difference between the stock springs and the new ones I got. Definitely higher quality!!!
Stock Ones...
New ones...
Here's what's needed...
T27 Torx bit and ratchet to fit
10MM socket, 3" extension, and ratchet to fit
6" 1/4" drive extension
Step 1
Remove the coil cover by removing the 4 T27 torx screws on the top...
Step 2
remove the wiring harness from the coil packs and then remove the 10MM bolts that hold the coil packs in place.
You remove the plugs on the wiring harness by lifting up on the top of the plug. Here's a picture of the plug. Just pull straight up and the plug slides itself off the coil.
Step 3
Pull the coil pack straight up and you will see the boot attached to the bottom and it will look something like this...
Step 4
remove the boot from the bottom of the coil pack. It just pulls off. You might have to twist it and wiggle it a bit but it comes off. Also you will notice a notch on the boot which must Be lined up with a groove in the coil pack when you reinstall it. It will look like this...
Step 5
Take the male end of your 6" 1/4" drive extension and push it into the side of the boot that goes on top of your spark plug until the spring and the retainer pushes out the top and then pull it the rest of the way out with your fingers. It will look like this...
Step 6
Set the coil pack upside down and put the spring inside the nub that goes inside the spark boot and push the spark boot back on. There is no need to reinstall the metal retainer that covered the stock springs (The new springs wouldn't fit inside it anyway as they are much larger...)
Step 7
Reverse all the procedures for reinstalling the coil packs, wiring harness, and coil cover.
I did notice a smoother Idle and I didn't get a chance to drive it enough to see if there would be an increase in performance or fuel economy. I did check my interceptors and they were showing 0 Misfires for all cylinders so that's always a plus too. If any of you have any questions please feel free to let me know and I'll be glad to help...
NOTICE: BE VERY GENTLE WITH THE COIL PACKS THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND THEY ARE EXPENSIVE IF YOU DROP THEM
First I would like to take a second to show the difference between the stock springs and the new ones I got. Definitely higher quality!!!
Stock Ones...
New ones...
Here's what's needed...
T27 Torx bit and ratchet to fit
10MM socket, 3" extension, and ratchet to fit
6" 1/4" drive extension
Step 1
Remove the coil cover by removing the 4 T27 torx screws on the top...
Step 2
remove the wiring harness from the coil packs and then remove the 10MM bolts that hold the coil packs in place.
You remove the plugs on the wiring harness by lifting up on the top of the plug. Here's a picture of the plug. Just pull straight up and the plug slides itself off the coil.
Step 3
Pull the coil pack straight up and you will see the boot attached to the bottom and it will look something like this...
Step 4
remove the boot from the bottom of the coil pack. It just pulls off. You might have to twist it and wiggle it a bit but it comes off. Also you will notice a notch on the boot which must Be lined up with a groove in the coil pack when you reinstall it. It will look like this...
Step 5
Take the male end of your 6" 1/4" drive extension and push it into the side of the boot that goes on top of your spark plug until the spring and the retainer pushes out the top and then pull it the rest of the way out with your fingers. It will look like this...
Step 6
Set the coil pack upside down and put the spring inside the nub that goes inside the spark boot and push the spark boot back on. There is no need to reinstall the metal retainer that covered the stock springs (The new springs wouldn't fit inside it anyway as they are much larger...)
Step 7
Reverse all the procedures for reinstalling the coil packs, wiring harness, and coil cover.
I did notice a smoother Idle and I didn't get a chance to drive it enough to see if there would be an increase in performance or fuel economy. I did check my interceptors and they were showing 0 Misfires for all cylinders so that's always a plus too. If any of you have any questions please feel free to let me know and I'll be glad to help...
NOTICE: BE VERY GENTLE WITH THE COIL PACKS THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND THEY ARE EXPENSIVE IF YOU DROP THEM
Last edited by TommyP; 10-03-2012 at 12:58 PM.
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Here's the ebay link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COBAL...mZ310071786262
$4.50 + $1.50 for shipping...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COBAL...mZ310071786262
$4.50 + $1.50 for shipping...
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I would email him on eBay. I know he was working on getting ones made specifically for the 2.4.
Or you can IM him on AOL. His screen name is twincamcavy
Well I suppose the easiest way to describe it is that it's comparable to changing the plug wires on say an old SBC. These are supposed to have 80% less resistance (according to the paper that came with them) than the stock springs. This would mean that more power gets to the spark plugs which would result in a better spark in the cylinder.
Smoother idle and it's a bit more responsive. The idle is noticeably smoother on my car...I have an Ignalls ETD and it's set to the stiffest setting so I feel pretty much every little vibration (not quite as much as you feel with polly mounts but plenty of vibs) and these made a big difference for me.
Or you can IM him on AOL. His screen name is twincamcavy
Well I suppose the easiest way to describe it is that it's comparable to changing the plug wires on say an old SBC. These are supposed to have 80% less resistance (according to the paper that came with them) than the stock springs. This would mean that more power gets to the spark plugs which would result in a better spark in the cylinder.
Smoother idle and it's a bit more responsive. The idle is noticeably smoother on my car...I have an Ignalls ETD and it's set to the stiffest setting so I feel pretty much every little vibration (not quite as much as you feel with polly mounts but plenty of vibs) and these made a big difference for me.
Last edited by Tazmanian_Dvl; 08-01-2008 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I'll pull them tomorrow. I got about 500 miles since I put them in and let you know if I find anything. If I do I guess I'll be putting the stockers back in. Stay tuned...
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NP when i installed them it was getting dark and I was trying to hurry cause I had to be somewhere and I forgot to take a picture of that step...
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OK after a week of driving (about 500 miles) I pulled the boots and reexamined the springs. Here's what I found...
There appears to be oxidation on the silver springs. However I have noticed no drop off in power, my idle is still much improved (same as it was when I installed them), and I still have 0 misfires. and to prove it...
Bottom line is they are staying in until I begin to notice some adverse effects. The oxidation I can deal with if it doesn't hurt the performance...
There appears to be oxidation on the silver springs. However I have noticed no drop off in power, my idle is still much improved (same as it was when I installed them), and I still have 0 misfires. and to prove it...
Bottom line is they are staying in until I begin to notice some adverse effects. The oxidation I can deal with if it doesn't hurt the performance...
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no the interceptor can be used on an 8 cylinder motor as well so in certain screen is has readings for 8 cylinders but only the first 4 would show misfires if there was any
Silver oxidizes when it's in the open air (check you mom's silverware). I'm not sure if the oxidation on the outside of the spring affects it's continuity. Maybe someone brighter than i can shed some light on this...
Silver oxidizes when it's in the open air (check you mom's silverware). I'm not sure if the oxidation on the outside of the spring affects it's continuity. Maybe someone brighter than i can shed some light on this...
Last edited by Tazmanian_Dvl; 08-03-2008 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#22
no the interceptor can be used on an 8 cylinder motor as well so in certain screen is has readings for 8 cylinders but only the first 4 would show misfires if there was any
Silver oxidizes when it's in the open air (check you mom's silverware). I'm not sure if the oxidation on the outside of the spring affects it's continuity. Maybe someone brighter than i can shed some light on this...
Silver oxidizes when it's in the open air (check you mom's silverware). I'm not sure if the oxidation on the outside of the spring affects it's continuity. Maybe someone brighter than i can shed some light on this...
I will email the creator and alert him to this thread so he can shed some light. I really don't like the look of the pitting on those coils.
#24
He said to use Dielectric Grease. It should help prevent the corrosion and also prevent the coils from sticking to the boot.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3451
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3451
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"THIS AUCTION IS FOR 4 SPARK BOOT SPRING INSERTS FOR THE 2.0 ECOTEC LSJ FROM 2005 AND UP.THE SPRINGS I AM OFFERING ARE COILED FROM BERYLLIUM COPPER WITH SILVER COATING.THE RESISTANCE IS FAR LOWER THAN STOCK WHICH MEANS BETTER ELECTRICAL FLOW TO THE PLUGS.....COPPER WITH SILVER IS BY FAR THE BEST CONDUCTOR FOR ELECTRICITY SO WHY NOT UPGRADE YOURS TODAY.....SPRINGS ARE PACKED AND READY TO GO WITH DETAILED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR U TO FOLLOW THANKS ALOT GREG........."
So the exterior is coated in silver which would explain the oxidation...Like I said though I'm not sure how it would effect how it conducts electricity...