2.0 LNF Engine: How To: Valve Gunk/Coking Removal
07-19-2015, 10:43 PM
#201
FYI I am testing the inevitable v.3 seperator that pulls the blow by, previously returned through to the inlet manifold, directly to the seperator, so the off boost vacuum pathway to the inlet manifold is eliminated. So is the internal check valve, so no chance of failure in that regard. Should be testing it next week. Its sort of a slam dunk, I have one Kappa running around for a year already with the mod ...life is good
so. we remove the pcv valve, and block the entry to the plenum ,and take the gasses out of the top of the inlet manifold to the seperator.
simple really
08-31-2015, 02:56 PM
#202
I wanted to provide some insight, as i have just finished doing this over the weekend.
This only took me and a friend 4 hours to get done. basically an hour per cyclinder.
1. Make sure you have everything covered in the engine bay and around as this stuff does get everywhere.
2. Have a well operated shop vac with a narrow attachment, i used my normal vacuum attachment to get in the small areas of the valves.
3. Purchase a blast gun that does not have a hopper or bag on the actual gun, this will make you get annoyed as there is not much room to move the gun around and you have to keep refilling the gun up.
I bought this one from harbor freight for 30 bucks. It basically has a container to hold all the media and a line from the bottom of the container with a long hose to connect to the gun to allow you to move back and forth easier. Also no refilling time just blast away.
4. Try to get some picks or tiny flat screw drivers to scrap away the gunk behind the valves, and in and around the valves, it good to try to scrap some of the gunk off before blasting it with the shells so you don't have to do lots of blasting.
5. take your time masking off everything, as the prep work is what will make this job a clean one or a messy one.
6. Make sure you don't blast long burst, as media will just collect in the cylinder.
7. While you blast you can put the vacuum in the cyclinder at the same time to suck up all the media while blasting. (small attachment comes in handy here).
8. enjoy blasting as this is fun part.
here is my results after 85k miles. I bought the car with 80k miles.
This only took me and a friend 4 hours to get done. basically an hour per cyclinder.
1. Make sure you have everything covered in the engine bay and around as this stuff does get everywhere.
2. Have a well operated shop vac with a narrow attachment, i used my normal vacuum attachment to get in the small areas of the valves.
3. Purchase a blast gun that does not have a hopper or bag on the actual gun, this will make you get annoyed as there is not much room to move the gun around and you have to keep refilling the gun up.
I bought this one from harbor freight for 30 bucks. It basically has a container to hold all the media and a line from the bottom of the container with a long hose to connect to the gun to allow you to move back and forth easier. Also no refilling time just blast away.
4. Try to get some picks or tiny flat screw drivers to scrap away the gunk behind the valves, and in and around the valves, it good to try to scrap some of the gunk off before blasting it with the shells so you don't have to do lots of blasting.
5. take your time masking off everything, as the prep work is what will make this job a clean one or a messy one.
6. Make sure you don't blast long burst, as media will just collect in the cylinder.
7. While you blast you can put the vacuum in the cyclinder at the same time to suck up all the media while blasting. (small attachment comes in handy here).
8. enjoy blasting as this is fun part.
here is my results after 85k miles. I bought the car with 80k miles.
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exninja (08-31-2015)
02-15-2016, 05:07 PM
#204
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Depends on what the material gun calls for, some max around 90-100psi. Just make sure you wear ear plugs, makes stupid high pitched loud sound when you go over an edge or are working in the port randomly.
08-16-2016, 11:21 PM
#210
P.S in canada (where im from) under 200.000kms is considered low kms and under 100,000 is brand new...my car has 109.000kms
Last edited by Scypheroth; 08-16-2016 at 11:26 PM.
08-25-2016, 11:21 PM
#213
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Awesome post on how too clean carbon-buildup. The oil separator seems like a great idea. I just purchased a 09 ss/tc and was researching known issues. I was wondering if anyone has tried meth injection to reduce buildup?
08-26-2016, 09:22 AM
#215
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
k then what can i do to stop it from getting worse? i dont feel safe throwing anything in my cylinder head no matter who tells me its safe...just would liek to prolong this engine as far as i can before i need to drop in a new one...
P.S in canada (where im from) under 200.000kms is considered low kms and under 100,000 is brand new...my car has 109.000kms
P.S in canada (where im from) under 200.000kms is considered low kms and under 100,000 is brand new...my car has 109.000kms
09-16-2016, 12:14 AM
#216
Is there anything VERY IMPORTANT i should know about this process before doing it? I understand that the valves need to be closed, things need to be covered and taped off and to take my time. I just don't want to **** anything up
09-16-2016, 10:44 AM
#217
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...emoval-304188/
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ECaulk (09-16-2016)
09-16-2016, 11:29 AM
#218
here you go man this should help with all your questions/concerns lol
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...emoval-304188/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...emoval-304188/
