2.0 LNF Engine: How To: Valve Gunk/Coking Removal
11-19-2013, 11:52 PM
#52
PCV Upgrade. thats the whole point of an oil seperator. the links are on here, in exhaustive detail dont want to clutter up the whole thread. You can also check the all things powell thread. or the PCV upgrade thread.
ps if folks have to be told multiple times to have closed valves when cleaning the valves, perhaps they should consider having someone techie like to do it for them
ps if folks have to be told multiple times to have closed valves when cleaning the valves, perhaps they should consider having someone techie like to do it for them
11-19-2013, 11:55 PM
#53
PCV Upgrade. thats the whole point of an oil seperator. the links are on here, in exhaustive detail dont want to clutter up the whole thread. You can also check the all things powell thread. or the PCV upgrade thread.
ps if folks have to be told multiple times to have closed valves when cleaning the valves, perhaps they should consider having someone techie like to do it for them
ps if folks have to be told multiple times to have closed valves when cleaning the valves, perhaps they should consider having someone techie like to do it for them
11-20-2013, 12:30 AM
#54
Personally I wouldnt let ANYONE regardless of their inherent brain power, do this on my engine. There are wayyyyy to many variables not being considered with what is being done here. Small particulates getting up under the valve guide area, the cylinder port wall which is clearly still covered in walnut media by the discoloration im seeing at the front of the port, and your gambling on the fact that your getting it all out with compressed air and a vacuum alone. It would be a safer bet to fill your ports up with alcohol or a solvent of some sort and let them sit overnight and then just clean them with compressed air and a pipe cleaner brush. At least you know that anything you get into the cylinder can either be removed by removing the spark plugs and cranking the motor, burned by the motor, or just change the damn oil and get rid of the contaminated oil. Or even using baking soda as media which at least dissolves with water/alcohol.
11-20-2013, 01:33 AM
#55
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Personally I wouldnt let ANYONE regardless of their inherent brain power, do this on my engine. There are wayyyyy to many variables not being considered with what is being done here. Small particulates getting up under the valve guide area, the cylinder port wall which is clearly still covered in walnut media by the discoloration im seeing at the front of the port, and your gambling on the fact that your getting it all out with compressed air and a vacuum alone. It would be a safer bet to fill your ports up with alcohol or a solvent of some sort and let them sit overnight and then just clean them with compressed air and a pipe cleaner brush. At least you know that anything you get into the cylinder can either be removed by removing the spark plugs and cranking the motor, burned by the motor, or just change the damn oil and get rid of the contaminated oil. Or even using baking soda as media which at least dissolves with water/alcohol.
/end rant.
11-20-2013, 01:54 AM
#56
Your justification that its wood doesn't change the fact that its a questionably bad thing to be attempting on your engine. The case of using a chemical such as alcohol is assuming that your valve seats are good on a motor with 29,000 miles and you don't have to worry about it leaking into the combustion chamber. Not to mention the fact that there would be such a minimal amount that you wouldn't have to worry about any of the things you mentioned, given the fact that it evaporates rather quickly.
This thread is getting allot of good laughs though. lol
This thread is getting allot of good laughs though. lol
11-20-2013, 02:30 AM
#57
This kind of thing isn't new so why you feel the need to go against the grain is beyond me. I think this is even recommended as periodic maintenance for some DI BMW's. Unless you can provide evidence of how this is a bad thing then I don't think there is anything for you to disagree with.
11-20-2013, 02:59 AM
#58
I guess some people need to re read this how to. I clearly state to tape off the open valve ports. Actually it is underlined. And why would I turn the wheel in gear to close the open port if I was doing it with it open?! Just for fun?
If you are going to argue the method of valve cleaning go do it on the valve gunk thread, not on a how to thread. This is a industry accepted method that was recommended to me by John Powell. Last time I checked he knew what he was doing.
I also DID use GM top end cleaner and a pipe brush to get the back of the valve stems. It was best to remove the film in the areas the walnut would not hit hard enough. I noted this in the how to.
Also apparently all the walnut dust is more harmful to my engine than the coatings of carbonized oil and hard deposits. Really? Next time ill just pour some sand in the intake.
If you are going to argue the method of valve cleaning go do it on the valve gunk thread, not on a how to thread. This is a industry accepted method that was recommended to me by John Powell. Last time I checked he knew what he was doing.
I also DID use GM top end cleaner and a pipe brush to get the back of the valve stems. It was best to remove the film in the areas the walnut would not hit hard enough. I noted this in the how to.
Also apparently all the walnut dust is more harmful to my engine than the coatings of carbonized oil and hard deposits. Really? Next time ill just pour some sand in the intake.
11-20-2013, 07:41 AM
#59
personally i wouldnt let anyone regardless of their inherent brain power, do this on my engine. There are wayyyyy to many variables not being considered with what is being done here. Small particulates getting up under the valve guide area, the cylinder port wall which is clearly still covered in walnut media by the discoloration im seeing at the front of the port, and your gambling on the fact that your getting it all out with compressed air and a vacuum alone. It would be a safer bet to fill your ports up with alcohol or a solvent of some sort and let them sit overnight and then just clean them with compressed air and a pipe cleaner brush. At least you know that anything you get into the cylinder can either be removed by removing the spark plugs and cranking the motor, burned by the motor, or just change the damn oil and get rid of the contaminated oil. Or even using baking soda as media which at least dissolves with water/alcohol.
I guess some people need to re read this how to. I clearly state to tape off the open valve ports. Actually it is underlined. And why would I turn the wheel in gear to close the open port if I was doing it with it open?! Just for fun?
If you are going to argue the method of valve cleaning go do it on the valve gunk thread, not on a how to thread. This is a industry accepted method that was recommended to me by John Powell. Last time I checked he knew what he was doing.
I also DID use GM top end cleaner and a pipe brush to get the back of the valve stems. It was best to remove the film in the areas the walnut would not hit hard enough. I noted this in the how to.
Also apparently all the walnut dust is more harmful to my engine than the coatings of carbonized oil and hard deposits. Really? Next time ill just pour some sand in the intake.
If you are going to argue the method of valve cleaning go do it on the valve gunk thread, not on a how to thread. This is a industry accepted method that was recommended to me by John Powell. Last time I checked he knew what he was doing.
I also DID use GM top end cleaner and a pipe brush to get the back of the valve stems. It was best to remove the film in the areas the walnut would not hit hard enough. I noted this in the how to.
Also apparently all the walnut dust is more harmful to my engine than the coatings of carbonized oil and hard deposits. Really? Next time ill just pour some sand in the intake.
This kind of thing isn't new so why you feel the need to go against the grain is beyond me. I think this is even recommended as periodic maintenance for some DI BMW's. Unless you can provide evidence of how this is a bad thing then I don't think there is anything for you to disagree with.
I don't know if you just didn't read or what, but I wouldn't recommend letting any type of chemical sit on your valves overnight; first of all, how are you going to know if you get it all out, second the keyword here is chemicals, you better be damn sure the exact type of chemical you are using doesn't react with or harm the valves, heads, pistons, rings, cylinder walls etc. Just because something didn't change the appearance of the metal doesn't mean that there wasn't some sort of reaction. You may have unknowingly compromised your valvetrain or even worse your pistons or cylinder walls. This is strictly worse case scenario, but I have seen a lot of people, some so called ASE certified mechanics, do things to their cars with complete gross negligence; no offense to anyone on this forum as it is not directed at you guys, but as many of you know some Cobalt owners tend to be cheap as and want to take shortcuts or they halfass things. This is not a job that I would not recommend even attempting unless you are confident in your abilities, fully prepared and are willing to purchase the correct tools/materials. For example, I had to change out and flush out an entire brake system because the guy wanted to paint his calipers, but wanted a quick way to strip the old paint so he soaked the front calipers in household paint thinner, which completely destroyed the boots and seals, he didn't realize this and after painting reinstalled them. The next day he nearly killed someone because he had little to no front brakes. So being cheap and uneducated cost him a lot more than what it would have to properly strip the calipers. I know it exactly a directly related example, but an example nonetheless. But back on topic the media used is walnut shell which is wood WOOD BURNS and unlike chemicals it burns predictably, chemical build up that is ignited by a spark in your combustion chamber could be the end of that motor. Sorry for the wall of text, I have too much free time tonight.
/end rant.
/end rant.
Walnut shell media is wood, it's harmless. Way less than allowing a strong solvent to wash down particles of hardened carbon (which is highly abrasive and harder than metals). This method is OEM approved, and is used by BMW on the turbo I6's that have this problem as a warranty repair.
Nothing to see here lol. Move on.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 11-20-2013 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
11-20-2013, 07:53 AM
#61
Senior Member
you dont even own a lnf from the looks of it so why does it concern you? lol.[QUOTE=ps if folks have to be told multiple times to have closed valves when cleaning the valves, perhaps they should consider having someone techie like to do it for them[/QUOTE]
x2
11-20-2013, 09:04 AM
#63
I meant an adapter like this
http://www.treffbilder.de/images/350...ag0321tkr2.jpg
from
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682116
It would need to fit our ports correctly. Would save a lot of mess.
I'd buy one in a heart beat.
11-20-2013, 12:23 PM
#64
Senior Member
Great read and the bmw article helped get an idea too. That bmw with 77k and very little carbon gives me hope mines not too bad.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
11-20-2013, 12:38 PM
#65
Great read and the bmw article helped get an idea too. That bmw with 77k and very little carbon gives me hope mines not too bad.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
11-20-2013, 01:51 PM
#69
I read the how to. It states everything one needs to know when cleaning the valves. I dont understand why people are saying you left the valves open???
Also dont understand why anyone thinks this saw dust is bad for your car... This is not some new way to clean valves lol.
Also dont understand why anyone thinks this saw dust is bad for your car... This is not some new way to clean valves lol.
11-20-2013, 03:45 PM
#70
Senior Member
11-20-2013, 04:10 PM
#71
I read the how to. It states everything one needs to know when cleaning the valves. I dont understand why people are saying you left the valves open???
Also dont understand why anyone thinks this saw dust is bad for your car... This is not some new way to clean valves lol.
Also dont understand why anyone thinks this saw dust is bad for your car... This is not some new way to clean valves lol.
11-20-2013, 06:32 PM
#73
Great read and the bmw article helped get an idea too. That bmw with 77k and very little carbon gives me hope mines not too bad.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
Now due to numbers of DI cars on the road today I'm hoping more shops will offer this service. The dude in article says bmw has it in Europe but I'm wondering how many if any do it here.
11-20-2013, 07:37 PM
#75
Senior Member