Exhaust: LNF: Installing Bad-Mab Catless downpipe
09-25-2011, 03:29 AM
#56
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Just installed mine and wanted to add some tips for those who do this on jack stands and hand tools.
1. Don't remove the DP from the turbo manifold before loosening the back three bolts that connect to the exhaust. Just break them loose then break the back three loose. Mine were on so tight from rust that I couldn't get any torque on the back three with turbo side off. Had to bolt it back up to keep the stock DP still so I could apply lots of pressure to break them loose.
2. Rent or purchase a low profile oxygen sensor socket... http://mserv.toolking.com/catalog/pr...sor_Socket.jpg This tool was the perfect size bc I could not fit a standard sized O2 sensor socket due to lack of space. The tool also grabs the sensor perfectly and you can get lots of torque on it to break it loose.
3. Breaker bar. This can be an actual breaker bar or just a small (~18"-24" long) hollow metal pipe. Would NOT have gotten any of the bolts loose without this. Especially so laying on my back with just over 18" of room underneath a car...
4. Most importantly, safety glasses. Can't tell you how many pieces of rust and metal fell and hit me in the eyes.
Just a tip, before you start the car wipe the DP down with a rag sprayed with brake clean. This will take grease and finger prints off of it. When it heats up, it will turn a nice uniform gold color with no blemishes.
1. Don't remove the DP from the turbo manifold before loosening the back three bolts that connect to the exhaust. Just break them loose then break the back three loose. Mine were on so tight from rust that I couldn't get any torque on the back three with turbo side off. Had to bolt it back up to keep the stock DP still so I could apply lots of pressure to break them loose.
2. Rent or purchase a low profile oxygen sensor socket... http://mserv.toolking.com/catalog/pr...sor_Socket.jpg This tool was the perfect size bc I could not fit a standard sized O2 sensor socket due to lack of space. The tool also grabs the sensor perfectly and you can get lots of torque on it to break it loose.
3. Breaker bar. This can be an actual breaker bar or just a small (~18"-24" long) hollow metal pipe. Would NOT have gotten any of the bolts loose without this. Especially so laying on my back with just over 18" of room underneath a car...
4. Most importantly, safety glasses. Can't tell you how many pieces of rust and metal fell and hit me in the eyes.
Just a tip, before you start the car wipe the DP down with a rag sprayed with brake clean. This will take grease and finger prints off of it. When it heats up, it will turn a nice uniform gold color with no blemishes.
11-02-2011, 10:29 PM
#57
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if i get the badmab on my stock ss/tc will i need a tune or will i be good? also if i dont need a tune and i dont wanna throw a cel do i need to get the defouler or whatever?
11-04-2011, 02:39 AM
#58
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You will need the defouler to avoid a CEL without a tune. If your car is stock, you will not see any gains from this mod bc of the learn down feature. It would be best to wait on the install until you can get tuned shortly after.
01-05-2012, 12:08 AM
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Finished install after christmas and let me say it sounds great! Pita however since I used wheel ramps
I addressed the o2 sensor dilemma. To break it free I used a double sided wrench and ratchet extension, combining them to form a T-shape. I then laid belly down facing the back of the car and used a forward pushing/rowing motion. Gave me the best leverage and got the job done
I addressed the o2 sensor dilemma. To break it free I used a double sided wrench and ratchet extension, combining them to form a T-shape. I then laid belly down facing the back of the car and used a forward pushing/rowing motion. Gave me the best leverage and got the job done
01-10-2012, 12:57 AM
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I just installed a defouler after a couple weeks with the downpipe and the CEL isn't going away after 20ish miles of driving. Before I take it to autozone to borrow a scanner, any thoughts on what it may be?
01-20-2012, 09:05 PM
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Drive it for more than 20 miles, it should reset after a few driving cycles usually about 100 miles. If it isn't gone after that get the code and make sure it's the O2.
01-21-2012, 12:55 AM
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scanned and erased the code multiple times along with the battery method. p0036. Is the tip of the sensor sensitive enough that i could have damaged it during installation? Can I just unplug it to make the cel go away?
01-21-2012, 10:26 AM
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No if it keeps coming back its getting to much air. You need a different defouler to get it more away from the flow. I am running the Vibrant defouler with my Bad-Mab and I will maybe throw a code every 6 months and it goes away after no more than 60 miles of driving.
04-29-2012, 11:42 PM
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I installed my dp back in early March. Had the car on a lift, took all of 45 minutes. Instead of installing a 02 defouler I just went into HPT and turned off the 6 codes related to the rear 02 sensor. Haven't had any issues. Did a muffler delete before the dp. The car not only spools faster, turbo is louder, car sounds absolutely amazing, and my torque numbers jumped hella crazy. Last week installed a TR12 intercooler from treadstone after the stock endtank cracked due to boost levels. Car runs so much better with the new IC. Absolutely love the combination of dp, muffler delete, ic, and hpt. Btw, after nearly 2 months the dp is no longer chrome, it is now a mix between chrome and bronze, and has several spots where it looks like heated titanium because it has gotten so hot, but so far i have had absolutely no issues out of it. Definitely love the product and would recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade from stock, or swap over from one they currently have.
12-30-2016, 02:48 PM
#71
New Member
Installed eBay Catless downpipe myself
That's a lot harder than it looked. I jacked up the car on stands, and used a 2 foot long breaker bar to get the rusted nuts off the downpipe on both ends. They were on real good. Used WD40 to loosen them up a bit. The new downpipe didnt quite fit, I drilled out the holes to make it fit the back, what a pain. 
Took about 3 1/2 hours. Wished it was on a stand and had air tools though. I also took off the O2 sensor connector from the car. Runs quieter now as it had a bad leak in the exhaust.
Oh, and I used a 12" extension and a 4" extension and a swivel joint , plus 15mm socket. (And, I have almost ZERO mechanical experience, LOL) And, that swivel joint helped you get a lot of leverage on the back nut on the top of the DP, which you have almost no room in. Breaker bar worked for me, as this car is 8 years old, and was in Canadian northern weather, which is a lot of sand, salt. so, it was rusted right up. This was the original DP as well. It was never off the car till now.
Took about 3 1/2 hours. Wished it was on a stand and had air tools though. I also took off the O2 sensor connector from the car. Runs quieter now as it had a bad leak in the exhaust.Oh, and I used a 12" extension and a 4" extension and a swivel joint , plus 15mm socket. (And, I have almost ZERO mechanical experience, LOL) And, that swivel joint helped you get a lot of leverage on the back nut on the top of the DP, which you have almost no room in. Breaker bar worked for me, as this car is 8 years old, and was in Canadian northern weather, which is a lot of sand, salt. so, it was rusted right up. This was the original DP as well. It was never off the car till now.
Last edited by chris604; 12-30-2016 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Added tips
12-31-2016, 12:59 PM
#72
Senior Member
That's a lot harder than it looked. I jacked up the car on stands, and used a 2 foot long breaker bar to get the rusted nuts off the downpipe on both ends. They were on real good. Used WD40 to loosen them up a bit. The new downpipe didnt quite fit, I drilled out the holes to make it fit the back, what a pain. Took about 3 1/2 hours. Wished it was on a stand and had air tools though. I also took off the O2 sensor connector from the car. Runs quieter now as it had a bad leak in the exhaust.
Oh, and I used a 12" extension and a 4" extension and a swivel joint , plus 15mm socket. (And, I have almost ZERO mechanical experience, LOL) And, that swivel joint helped you get a lot of leverage on the back nut on the top of the DP, which you have almost no room in. Breaker bar worked for me, as this car is 8 years old, and was in Canadian northern weather, which is a lot of sand, salt. so, it was rusted right up. This was the original DP as well. It was never off the car till now.
Took about 3 1/2 hours. Wished it was on a stand and had air tools though. I also took off the O2 sensor connector from the car. Runs quieter now as it had a bad leak in the exhaust.Oh, and I used a 12" extension and a 4" extension and a swivel joint , plus 15mm socket. (And, I have almost ZERO mechanical experience, LOL) And, that swivel joint helped you get a lot of leverage on the back nut on the top of the DP, which you have almost no room in. Breaker bar worked for me, as this car is 8 years old, and was in Canadian northern weather, which is a lot of sand, salt. so, it was rusted right up. This was the original DP as well. It was never off the car till now.
This post was not necessary on an old thread.