5hizn1t

Hello all. Here's a quick write up I did when I installed the UAF display on my 09 Cobalt that only had the analog display. I posted this in the HOW TO section over 2 weeks ago but I guess it's not going to be posted. So, I just thought I would try and redo it here for everybody to see what pieces I used and what I had to do.

Well, I answered my own question from an earlier topic. I received my UAF display which included the windshield trim to replace my original piece. I also

ordered the mating 8 wire connector for the new part since the original is only a 4 wire. Those 2 pieces are the only parts that I purchased. Below is what

I did to make it work. I used scotch-locks to fasten a couple of my wires to the factory wiring but you can use whatever you prefer.

After purchasing these 2 numbers:

image of apillar pieces


20831940 - MOLDING ASM-W/S GARN *GRAY
Dealer Price $351.12 List Price $616.00 Trade Price $462.00

image of 15306407


15306407 - CONNECTOR-W/LEADS, 8-WAY F. *BLACK *MATH DATA
Dealer Price $62.47 List Price $124.91 Trade Price $87.44

1. removed original trim by removing the torx screw on the top behind the round plug and pulling slightly to release the 2 clips
2. disconnected the 4 wire connector from the factory analog boost guage
3. get the 15306407 connector and trim the excess wire off of wires coming from pins C and H leaving around 3 inches from connector
4. scotch-lock wire from pin C of 6407 to the pink wire (pin A) from original boost guage connector
5. scotch-lock wire from pin H of 6407 to the black with white stripe wire (pin D) from original boost guage connector
6. completely cut off wire from pin G of 6407 because it is not used
7. tape up the 4 wire connector with other wires connected because your finished with that connector
8. run other 5 wires down behind the DLC (the 16 pin connector that you hook your scan tool to). I had to lengthen them about 6"
9. scotch-lock wire from pin D of 6407 to the red with white stripe wire (pin 16) of the DLC
10 cut both the High Speed GMLAN wires (tan with black pin 6 and tan pin 14) and leave enough room to install butt connectors. I left about 4" from the DLC
11 connect wire from pin E from 6407 to tan with black stripe wire coming from factory wiring harness you cut earlier
12 connect wire from pin F from 6407 to tan wire coming from factory wiring harness you cut earlier
13 connect wire from pin A from 6407 to tan with black stripe wire going to the back of the DLC side (pin 6) you cut earlier
14 connect wire from pin B from 6407 to tan wire going to the back of the DLC side (pin 14) you cut earlier
15 Hide all your wires and install the pillar trim by aligning the 2 clips and installing the torx screw on the top

As you can see, I had to add some extra wire to the length of the wires going to the DLC. I used some colored wires so it would be easier to determine which wire was which since all the wires from the 6407 connector is white.

For the High Speed GMLAN coming from the factory wiring harness I used blue and yellow. And High Speed GMLAN going to the DLC I used black and green. For the battery positive I just kept it white.

connector for analog boost guage


Pin Wire Circuit Function

A PK 439 Ignition Voltage
B GY 8 I/P Lamps Dimming Signal
C TN 891 Boost Gage Signal
D BK/WH 651 Ground

connector for digital boost guage UAF


Pin Wire Circuit Function

A TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
B TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
C PK 339 Ignition Voltage
D RD/WH 1440 Battery Positive Voltage
E TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
F TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
G -- -- Not Used
H BK/WH 651 Ground

DLC connector


Pin Wire Circuit Function

1 D-GN 5060 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data
2-3 -- -- Not Used
4 BK 550 Ground
5 BK/WH 1051 Signal Ground
6 TN/BK 2500 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+)
7-13 -- -- Not Used
14 TN 2501 High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-)
15 -- -- Not Used
16 RD/WH 40 Battery Positive Voltage


back of DLC after wiring

Mazdaboi318

whoaaa....
wish i had some skils for this

steven6870

iTrader: (1)

You do. For the price, buy a dashdaq, and plug it in. MAD SKILLS!!!

Mazdaboi318

hahaha im working on it

IsItFast?

This also answers the question on if it can be used on the 08

blownss06

iTrader: (-1)

Does it work the way its supposed to? I heard that you had to redo the whole wiring harness? And yea will it work on 08's cause then I will look at doing this.

Billy Baldone

So this is all you need to add RPD to your T/C? How long did it take to install?

Stamina

This is a separate solution from the wiring harness redo approach.

blownss06

iTrader: (-1)

So would it work with the 08's because it should have the same wiring at the obII plug

Stamina

That's a point I made in the earlier thread on this.

I don't see why it wouldn't.

5hizn1t

Not sure about it working on the 08's but I don't see why it wouldn't. Everything works great on the display. I can get all information like boost, gforce meter, speedo, air inlet, fuel pressure, shift indicator, coolant temp, knock retard, cam phase, etc. The only one that seems to not work is the barameter. It always shows 29 something with a picture of a partly cloudy sky

blownss06

iTrader: (-1)

Where did you buy the parts to do this? I seen them on gmpartsdirect.com and they want like 85 bucks just to ship the a piller, but all together it was like 564 and some change.

5hizn1t

Since I wasn't real sure what I was doing, it took me about 45 minutes. If I had to do it now with the how-to above showing me what wires go where, probably 15 minutes.

All you really need to do is:

1 remove old pillar mldg
2 scotch lock 2 wires from new connector to original 4 pin connector
3 run 5 wires from new connector down through dash.( I removed weatherstip by dash and ran through that way. only took a minute to do)
4 cut GMLAN wires and attach 2 from connector to harness side and other 2 to DLC side
5 scotch lock last wire to positive wire
6 plug in new display, snap in place, and install screw.

thats about it

I get everything at cost. And GM doesn't charge any freight to the dealership.

blownss06

iTrader: (-1)

What was it cost if u dont want to post it you can pm me. How bout hookin someone up?

and how the hell did you figure this out, lol.

Mazdaboi318

ahh

so how much was it all?

5hizn1t

Cost is the "Dealer Cost" in the first post. It's 351 for the pillar and 62 for the connector. You probably can save the 62 bucks and just splice about the connector end of the display. There's enough wires showing that you can just attach straight to it.

blownss06

iTrader: (-1)

Oh ok I feel dumb now. So you want to hook someone up with one at dealer cost?

5hizn1t

Here's a pic of the connector on the display

sherm420

schweeeet

5hizn1t

My manager watches stuff pretty tight. I'm only allowed to purchase a certain amount at cost.

boosted4dr

Why? At cost dealers are still making 10% profit. These are transactions the dealer would not normally have gotten

5hizn1t

If your under GM RIM management you wont have the usual 10% discounts like you used to. GM changed that the middle of July. Now it's around 5-7%. Plus, that's for the dealership to have, not the employees or managers. Here they only get their money off the profits from sales.

gatekeeper

Cool writeup. Sticky?

sport-o!

nice...lookin' at one of these for my 09'!! thanks for the write up!!

RED08SSTC

iTrader: (1)

does anybody know anybody that successfully installed this on an 08?