red_wing_2121

Well, I finally received my Schroth Rallye 4 harness and got it installed. So, here is the installation how-to I promised

First, I will show you what the harness looks like laid out so you know what we are dealing with.


I chose it because Cobalt coupes (maybe sedans too?) do not have C-pillar seat belt bolts. We have to use the buckle and lower D-ring fastening points in the rear seat.
And by the way, the hardware that comes with the harness is not the correct thread pattern/size for our cars, so we need to reuse what is already on the car.

Things You May Need
- 3/8 drive ratchet and one extension about 3-5" long
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 10mm socket
- T50 Torx socket
- T20 Torx driver
- Side cutters, pliers, or some kind of metal cutting tool

Procedure
First, you need to remove the rear seat. There are two attatching points in the front of the rear seat. They are about in the middle of the indented seat where you sit on either side.


The two points where the harness are attatches are these two.



Remove the buckles using an 18mm. They are actually attatched to each other, so don't worry if you think they are stuck somehow.


Remove the lower D-ring also with the 18mm. Here is what you should have so far.


You are going to have to use a pair of side cutters or some type of pliers or something comparable to remove the speed nut so you can disassemble the lower D-ring bolt and washer assembly.

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Now, include the harness in the stack on the lower D-ring bolt in this order: spring washer, lower D-ring, harness ring, washer.


Install the assembly and tighten. Bend the Harness ring up to help to clear the rear seat when installed.


Install other harness ring under the buckles and tighten nut. Bend harness ring up as before.


Install rear seat in reverse of the removal. This is what you should en up with.


Now here's the fun part: front seat removal. GM didn't exactly make this as easy as it could be, so be patient.
Remove both rear seat bolt caps and the 15mm bolts under them.


Be sure to disconnect any connectors under the seat.


You will notice that the front of the seat has no bolts, don't worry. Position the seat like this.


Tilt seat forward and pull on about a 30-45 degree angle toward the rear of the car to disengage it from these slots.


After the seat is loose in the car, pull the top of the seat out first and then lift it completely out.


Here is what the car should look like now. You also can get a better view of what the slots look like for seat removal.


Remove the T20 Torx bits from the molding on the right side of the seat (left side very similar).

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Remove the right side molding. Here is what the major hang up will be in removal, so be careful.


The left side molding is a little different since you have the adjuster handles on that side. They simply pull off, but they are pretty tough. So, again, be careful. Here is what the back of the handles looks like (both same).


I know this may seem unnecessary, but it must be done. The bottom seat cushion must be removed. First you have to disconnect the lumbar adjuster cable. This can be done by turning the knob so the metal ball at the end of the cable is in the window, pull up on the black plastic piece held in by the whitish/cream colored housing and pulling out the cable.



Now, adjust the heighth adjuster so the seat is fully raised. Also adjust the seat tracks using the bar at the front of the seat so you can access the 10mm bolts holding the seat bottom. In this pic, you can see three of the four bolts; the other is behind the black plate in the upper left and the one in the upper right is the one you have to raise the seat for to get the spring out of the way.


The buckle also acts as its own nut on the bolt it is on. You need the T50 Torx (T55 would fit better, but I do not have one. If you don't either, just be very careful. A T50 will still work) to remove the bolt. You can hold the buckle by hand or let it push itself against the seat during removal.



Install the correct harness ring (orient harness on seat so you can figur out the right one to use) in betheen the buckle/nut and the seat frame.


Install and tighten. I staggered my harness and buckle like this.


Now put seat back together in reverse order and install seat into vehicle in reverse order.

For the last harness ring, you must remove the T50 (this one actually is a T50) from the lower door frame holding the factory belt.


This one also has a speed nut that needs to be removed.


Install harness ring as shown and install bolt back into lower door frame.


Finished Product




Hope this helps anyone planning on installing a harness! Good luck

yallabalt

Cool it works with the fatory seat. But it looks like the back seat cannot be used now. Although I do not think my back seat will ever hold people. My husband & I are tall, so the front seats stay pretty far back, no one would want to get back there. Excelent step by step photo direction by the way.

red_wing_2121

The back seat can be used, if needed. The harness detatches in the middle. See how this pic is.



Plus, you can still use the factory seatbelts eve with the harness installed.

yallabalt

OH that is cool, thank you for pointing that out. I guess I missed it the 1st time I read it.

red_wing_2121

Yeah, it looks like a good harness. I was actually worried that it would not be long enough, but it seems that it will be ok.

biohazard

i think im going to get that bar from C.A. for the harnesses.... my back seat area will eventually be a fiberglassed sub enclosure so this way wouldnt work but good write up

05YELLOWSS

Great write up, where is the link so I can get these, would really help out on the track!

SS/SCking

Nice write up ,but i hope you never get into a head-on crash. When the mounting point of a harness is much lower than your sholders you run the risk of crushing you spine. This set up might be fine for now but get the cross bar from C.A.(or one like it) as soon as you can.

RaineMan

Wow... complicated...

red_wing_2121

I am only using it for autocross, so it should be fine. I thought about that before I bought it, though.

red_wing_2121

Crap, I did not know that they had one of those. I would have gooten one if I had known. It would be a better setup, but what I have is good for now, like you said. It is cheaper than that setup would cost. Maybe I will just wait for my next vehicle in about 3 or so years (probably Cobalt SS) and get one of those.

Kahless

if i get a new car in 3 years its going to be a challenger, not another econobox. thats if i get a new car in 3 years since my wife wants a new xterra now. and if i dont decide that id rather have an hd theater in the house, which im really leaning to since i spend much more time there

and other than autox why put 4 pts in an auto 2.2??? does it help that much cause to me it seems comparable to having a bi level spoiler on a stock civic.... kinda ricey. it wouldnt be so bad if they were floor mount but losing the back seat is a nogo for me. the corbeau 4pts im getting for my 65 are floor mount, i have a bar in it but im getting sick of it so im gonna pull it out for now and use it as the base for a full 9sec cage.

redlineblueline

You are actually supposed to have them at a downward angle from the top of the seat 20-35 degrees http://www.takataracingproducts.com/guide.html step 7.

red_wing_2121

Ok, I am not certain what my next car will be. I just said Cobalt because this is a Cobalt forum. There are other vehicles that I am looking at too: Camaro, STI, Challenger, etc.

And 4-points in a 2.2 is not rice if you actually race the car, don't use them in normal driving conditions, and it is only the driver's seat. And yes, it does help quite a bit. Do you even know what rice really is? Besides, you do not lose the back seat because the harness separates in the middle with a buckle allowing you to utilize the back seat. The harness does not take away the factory belts, either. Read more than just the first and last couple posts in a thread before making claims that are incorrect.

05YELLOWSS

Anymore detailed pics of the bar and how it attaches? I will be looking into these for autox really soon, looks very stable...

red_wing_2121

http://www.cobalt-addiction.com

Look under interior and then roll cages.

05YELLOWSS

why thank you very much
Jon

Kahless

i did read the whole thing, and yes you lose the backseats cause you cant use the belts + back seats at the same time. my racecar will have 4pts and the backseat will be usable, no compromises. i may even put 4 pts and buckets in all 4 seats and have a custom fiberglass center console made. depending on how long i want my baby in pieces. and my wife and her sisters would throw a holy BF if they had to sit on those, dunno if you put your gf/wife in the backseat like i tend to. are they SFI approved????

red_wing_2121

Then you should have elaborated on the part where you meant the backseats are not usable when the harness is being used.

sheek360

good job, nice write up

Kahless

are they sfi??? just curious, i dunno if scca or wherever you race specifies that. my uncle said the strip he goes to wont let him run without it. but he runs low 10's

red_wing_2121

They are SCCA legal. I know that for sure.

red_wing_2121

Does SFI mean street legal? Because they are.