Nitrous = voided warranty
#1
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Nitrous = voided warranty
Hey guys I know that if you have a Nitrous Kit on your vehicle and something mechanically goes wrong and they find the nitrous kit on the vehicle, then the vehicle is not cover under warranty... but what if you remove any traces of the nitrous kit ever being installed. Is there any particular way that they can tell internally in the engine if Nitrous had been sprayed into it?? I mean like anything on the valves or the top of the pistons??
Im thinking about putting a Dry 25 shot Incognito kit on my car.. I know that wet kits are recommended, but I think that the stock tune on the 2.4 is rich enough to handle a 25 shot without leaning out, but i dont want to take the chance of voiding my warranty if all traces are not removable..
Im thinking about putting a Dry 25 shot Incognito kit on my car.. I know that wet kits are recommended, but I think that the stock tune on the 2.4 is rich enough to handle a 25 shot without leaning out, but i dont want to take the chance of voiding my warranty if all traces are not removable..
#5
use a search bro. u can find answers to almost anything.
i found this on NX Express
Q. What is nitrous backfire?
A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitrous system that is too rich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated too lean.
i have also heard using Nitrous while hitting the Rev-limiter can cause trouble aswell im not sure bout that one tho.
i found this on NX Express
Q. What is nitrous backfire?
A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitrous system that is too rich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated too lean.
i have also heard using Nitrous while hitting the Rev-limiter can cause trouble aswell im not sure bout that one tho.
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I thought nitrous backfires were only on a wet system since it needs fuel to backfire in the manifold. Wouldnt a dry shot not have that problem? My understanding was that a dry shot's only problem would be possibly maxing out the injectors and running lean.
#13
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yeah, you might want to do some soul searching and hit the stickies hard core. also if you google the subject you'll find a crap load of useful info.
oh yeah the dealer i went to was stoked about the nawz. the old dudes were a little worried about the little 2.2 being able to handle the juice but after i told em i'm 20 bottles in they shut the **** up. warranties rarely count when you need em to anyway, just my opinion from personal experience. these stealerships find every reason under the sun not to warranty you unless you know the guys you're dealing with and then they turn a blind eye to mods.
oh yeah the dealer i went to was stoked about the nawz. the old dudes were a little worried about the little 2.2 being able to handle the juice but after i told em i'm 20 bottles in they shut the **** up. warranties rarely count when you need em to anyway, just my opinion from personal experience. these stealerships find every reason under the sun not to warranty you unless you know the guys you're dealing with and then they turn a blind eye to mods.
#14
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Most intake manifold backfires with nitrous are due to fuel pooling and is nearly always with a wet system because a wet system has a fuel solenoid that sprays more fuel in at the same time as the nitrous. A dry system is sprayed before the MAF which compensates the fuel mixure by adding more fuel to the mixture, but this is atomized and rarely pools. There are advantages and disadvantages for both systems.
Generally, with a small shot like 25 HP, you'll have very little problem with a dry kit. For peace of mind, I would check air/fuel ratio with a wideband on the spray. If the dry nozzle is not orientated correctly or if it's too close to the MAF, you could run lean (which is very bad). I would think a small 25 shot would be fine though.
You absolutely have to use a WOT switch with nitrous. I personally would never run without a RPM window switch either. What this does is allow you to only spray between a RPM range that you program in. It's not good to spray below about 3,000 RPM and then I set the deactivation cutoff point a couple hundred RPM below the shift point, so it stops spraying just before I shift. This also protects the engine if you miss a shift. The window switch I have has a built in WOT switch that runs off the TPS (see link). I also have a fuel pressure safety switch (FPSS) that deactivates the system if fuel pressure drops below a safe limit.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964
The easiest way to tell if nitrous was ran is to look at the spark plugs. Most techs probably can't tell, but if a guy is good, he could probably tell from the plugs. Here's the deal, you should run the next colder set of spark plugs with nitrous anyway. Buy new plugs and keep the originals. If you do take your car in, change back to the original plugs.
To answer the original question. A lot of dealerships would probably use the nitrous as a means to void the warranty, especially on drivetrain parts. If you took it in for let's say for a door lock problem, they'd probably fix the door lock and flag your records that they found a nitrous system. I would remove the system off the car before going in for warranty work. Another thing I'd like to say is if you can't afford to pay, then don't play. In other words, if you install a nitrous system and burn a hole through a piston because you ran it too lean, don't expect the dealership to fix your screw up.
Generally, with a small shot like 25 HP, you'll have very little problem with a dry kit. For peace of mind, I would check air/fuel ratio with a wideband on the spray. If the dry nozzle is not orientated correctly or if it's too close to the MAF, you could run lean (which is very bad). I would think a small 25 shot would be fine though.
You absolutely have to use a WOT switch with nitrous. I personally would never run without a RPM window switch either. What this does is allow you to only spray between a RPM range that you program in. It's not good to spray below about 3,000 RPM and then I set the deactivation cutoff point a couple hundred RPM below the shift point, so it stops spraying just before I shift. This also protects the engine if you miss a shift. The window switch I have has a built in WOT switch that runs off the TPS (see link). I also have a fuel pressure safety switch (FPSS) that deactivates the system if fuel pressure drops below a safe limit.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964
The easiest way to tell if nitrous was ran is to look at the spark plugs. Most techs probably can't tell, but if a guy is good, he could probably tell from the plugs. Here's the deal, you should run the next colder set of spark plugs with nitrous anyway. Buy new plugs and keep the originals. If you do take your car in, change back to the original plugs.
To answer the original question. A lot of dealerships would probably use the nitrous as a means to void the warranty, especially on drivetrain parts. If you took it in for let's say for a door lock problem, they'd probably fix the door lock and flag your records that they found a nitrous system. I would remove the system off the car before going in for warranty work. Another thing I'd like to say is if you can't afford to pay, then don't play. In other words, if you install a nitrous system and burn a hole through a piston because you ran it too lean, don't expect the dealership to fix your screw up.
#15
A 25 shot won't kill his engine in the short term...but it will break his warranty. Pretty much anything that's not oem is going to break your warranty because it should...why should a dealership (or car company) pay to fix a car you mess up?
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But wouldnt it be easy to put a dry kit back to stock? Especially if you use the air filer that zex sells that has the nozzle in it. Swap out the zex filter for a cone filter, unplug the zex control box, tuck the lines into wherever you routed them, and take the bottle out.
#17
Warranties are complicated. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/.../warranty.shtm
I'll save you some reading. If they can prove something you did caused a failure they wont warranty those repairs. You don't lose the entire warranty though. Just the stuff you modified. However they might look at other things a whole lot closer to find someway out of the warranty for that stuff too. Its not too hard to find a way to avoid warranty if they want. Remember dealers don't make money on warranty work. They do make money on repairs.
I'll save you some reading. If they can prove something you did caused a failure they wont warranty those repairs. You don't lose the entire warranty though. Just the stuff you modified. However they might look at other things a whole lot closer to find someway out of the warranty for that stuff too. Its not too hard to find a way to avoid warranty if they want. Remember dealers don't make money on warranty work. They do make money on repairs.
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I just now watched the video. You were running a wet system and committed the cardinal sin of spraying off the line. Most window switches nowadays have a first gear lockout, so you don't start spraying until second gear. That might be a wise way to do it with a manual tranny car.
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Hey guys I know that if you have a Nitrous Kit on your vehicle and something mechanically goes wrong and they find the nitrous kit on the vehicle, then the vehicle is not cover under warranty... but what if you remove any traces of the nitrous kit ever being installed. Is there any particular way that they can tell internally in the engine if Nitrous had been sprayed into it?? I mean like anything on the valves or the top of the pistons??
Im thinking about putting a Dry 25 shot Incognito kit on my car.. I know that wet kits are recommended, but I think that the stock tune on the 2.4 is rich enough to handle a 25 shot without leaning out, but i dont want to take the chance of voiding my warranty if all traces are not removable..
Im thinking about putting a Dry 25 shot Incognito kit on my car.. I know that wet kits are recommended, but I think that the stock tune on the 2.4 is rich enough to handle a 25 shot without leaning out, but i dont want to take the chance of voiding my warranty if all traces are not removable..
#21
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use a search bro. u can find answers to almost anything.
i found this on NX Express
Q. What is nitrous backfire?
A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitrous system that is too rich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated too lean.
i have also heard using Nitrous while hitting the Rev-limiter can cause trouble aswell im not sure bout that one tho.
i found this on NX Express
Q. What is nitrous backfire?
A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitrous system that is too rich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated too lean.
i have also heard using Nitrous while hitting the Rev-limiter can cause trouble aswell im not sure bout that one tho.
rev limit = automatic lean...= no fuel = boom = bad
im sorry, r u seriously going to make that statement?...
Last edited by Kibosh3; 07-20-2008 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#22
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if you spray responsibly then its not all that bad for your car.. people that have never used it or even been around it go by a few stories they've heard bout " o its so bad for the engine" and swear up and down that its gonna blow any motor thats sprayed.. thats not how it works.... sprayin off the line really is a no no.. there is to much of a chance that the engine will bog then boom there goes the engine. if your really lucky when it happens it'll just blow the intake mani to pieces leavin the engine un-harmed.. the best time to spray is around 3k till your almost at red-line. a window switch takes care of that for you. with a 2.2 the fuel starts to cut back after you hit the 80mph mark so sprayin after that you start to run the risk of runnin to lean and detenation can occur so you really dont want to spray to much after 80mph. sprayin over and over in short amounts of time will cause the engine to start to heat up pretty good too so allow a little bit of time in between the times you spray. when i say this i mean sprayin for like 20 - 30 seconds lettin out and doin it again cause the engine to heat up.
to the op.. yes its gonna void your warranty if it messes somethin up and they find reason to believe the n2o casued the problem. untill it actaully causes a problem then they cant void your warranty thou. there are laws against them just voidin your warranty for aftermarket stuff. it has to cause a problem before they can do anythin about it.
to the op.. yes its gonna void your warranty if it messes somethin up and they find reason to believe the n2o casued the problem. untill it actaully causes a problem then they cant void your warranty thou. there are laws against them just voidin your warranty for aftermarket stuff. it has to cause a problem before they can do anythin about it.
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I love this statement!
I've sprayed my SS for 2 and a half months now switching from 50 to 75 shot... and vice versa... like previously stated... spray Responsibly and you'll be fine! take all matters and care into consideration...
I spray from 2nd thru 4th... 3k to 6250 (right before redline) and thats the only break i do until the race is over...
Following a set standard and you can run anything to an extent
I've sprayed my SS for 2 and a half months now switching from 50 to 75 shot... and vice versa... like previously stated... spray Responsibly and you'll be fine! take all matters and care into consideration...
I spray from 2nd thru 4th... 3k to 6250 (right before redline) and thats the only break i do until the race is over...
Following a set standard and you can run anything to an extent
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I just now watched the video. You were running a wet system and committed the cardinal sin of spraying off the line. Most window switches nowadays have a first gear lockout, so you don't start spraying until second gear. That might be a wise way to do it with a manual tranny car.
I was not trying to spray off the line...
But yes, I agree...a lot of backfires happen because of that reason...just not in my situation.