Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Thats the pcv orifice.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

You can use it if you want. The lsj rail has much bigger openings for the injectors than my 2.2/2.4 rails had. Im using the lsj because im converting to return style.

patooyee

So I guess in stock form it allows the 2.4 to pull a vacuum on the crank case? (And pull in oil vapor as well!) None of the intake builder flanges have it, they all just block it off. And with boost it would pressurize instead of pull vacuum. So I'm guessing that's why they don't have it.

What openings are you referring to?

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

You need to incorporate a one way check valve to allow vacuum to be pulled, but keep boost pressure out. would be as simple as drilling/tapping an npt fitting into the flange and running a line to the intake manifold (with a check valve in-line). If you were to run an oil air separator, this is the line you would want to plumb it into

And he means the openings in the injector seats/tubes on the rail. The lsj are a wide open transition between the main "log" and the seats, where the 2.2 has a restriction

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

the openings on the rail where the injectors seat

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

you know ive never really thought about this before. but youre right. i am boosting the crank case. oops

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

what manifold are you using?

patooyee

Why wouldn't I just incorporate that into the port on the valve cover?

And by you mentioning vacuum at all I assume that means I would want to mount my TB in front of the turbo?

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

the port on the valve cover is mainly a "fresh air inlet". Metered air is drawn in post MAF to "replace" the air that is drawn into the manifold through the PCV when under vacuum. this is probably 95+% of the time the car is running. The ports secondary purpose is to vent off blowby pressure from the crankcase when wot. on a healthy engine, you will see little to no oil come out of this port.

What do you mean in front of turbo? it should be between the intake manifold and the turbo

patooyee

You've mentioned vacuum twice now in relation to a turbo charged engine. I'm just trying to figure out where you're getting vacuum from on an engine where the intake is should almost always have positive pressure.

Also why, if this little PCV orifice in the head is so important, why virtually none of the intake flanges I've seen incorporate it. 100% of them block it off as far as I can tell.

Remember, I'm not trying to pass emissions or anything. As far as I care this thing can leave a trail of glowing green radioactive sludge in its wake everywhere it goes. (That's a joke!) It seems to me that all the engine should need to operate properly is a way to vent positive pressure out of the crank case either to atmosphere or back into the intake and that could easily be done without the intake orifice via the valve cover ...

I'm trying to find some operational description of an LNF PCV system but so far am striking out ...

patooyee

Just posting this for my own reference, read if you want: Blog - The PCV System

"For turbo or CSC guys you are blowing into the TB, intake and engine. There is no where to get suction from so the PCV is rendered unusable. These guys run a breather for a different reason than LS1 or ZZP full size IC users. For the aftermarket power adders the breather lets air OUT of the crank case. The exact opposite of what M90 guys use it for. When you go under boost the piston rings leak a bit and pressurize the crank case. This air needs to be let out and the breather does just that. The more boost you run, the older your engine is, or the larger piston ring gap you run the more air that needs to come out. Some of these guys will end up needing to use 2 breathers. These are the guys that you see with oil on the valve covers or steam coming out of the breather."

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

the pcv system on both the ss/sc and ss/tc work the exact same, air goes from the intake tube between the maf and compressor (turbo or supercharger) into the port on the valve cover. air is drawn through the valve cover to the intake side of the head and through a port and down to the hole between 2 and 3 intake runner. in the manifold there is the pcv valve. the pcv is a check valve, under vacuum it will draw air through, once you hit roughly 0 vacuum the valve closes, and when it boost it wont allow boost into the crankcase.

a turbocharged engine still produces vacuum. in most street engines 97% of the time its under vacuum. now in something like your building its not going to be as important. a pcv does help with ring sealing and does help keep the oil cleaner (blowby is removed from the crankcase before it settles in the oil pan). on my build im not running the factory pcv setup as i have a modded lnf manifold on my 2.2l, the port doesnt line up. the manifold is plugged off. i havent decided if im going to rum a pcv a different way or just leave it off, either way i have a good size catch can and a pair of -12 hoses going to the valve cover.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

On the LNF this is the line that comes off the valve cover and connects to the turbine side of the turbo. I think this line is the vacuum side.


There is also another line that connects to the intake before the turbo that has a little scoop on it pointing towards the filter element and that hose goes to the valve cover. I believe this line is a fresh air inlet.

patooyee

Can anyone recommend a BOV? I want one that blows back into the intake. I'm not a huge fan of the hissing noises.

TiAL Sport - TiAL QRJ

Seems like that's about the only one that ever turns up in searches.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Tial makes a very high quality product.

I know there are others like the ssqv that have adapters for recirc.

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

click

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

There's actually quite a few options for recirculation bypass valves. As Slowbalt mentioned the HKS SSQV does have a fitting you can purchase to make it recirculate instead of VTA.

The Hahn turbo kit for the 2.2 and 2.4 comes with one similar to this guy, and with you having a rock buggy I would imagine you want something simple that's pretty weather resistant and isn't a pain to clean off.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

i myself like turbosmart stuff, however ive used tial before with no issues.

patooyee

Was the supposed to be a link there or something? I don't get it...

patooyee

Why is that so much cheaper than everything else?

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

its likely cheap offshore crap.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

It's probably a plastic body. You can pay more if you want, might get better quality. But if you're running this with the Gen2 2.4 block this is all you're really going to need for normal power levels.
Sorry that was the BPV included with the Garrett Turbo GT kit for the 2.2.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=COB

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

sub'd

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

those ones are all over ebay. they claim they are an aluminum body with changeable springs. my guess is it wouldnt take much time before it started leaking.

one of the plastic body vw/audi bypass valves would be fine for a budget bypass valve. id say it would be more reliable than the ebay aluminum one.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Agreed, I just happened across that one for cheap and tossed it out there as an option. An OEM bypass valve for a VAG car would work fine. Found this guy for a decent price.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...lve/ES2804306/