G5GT2007

mine is also doing it on both doors. but i have 40k on the car so im out of warrenty. looks like im going to fix it myself

SSchargedSS

05 has it. silicone sealant for weatherstripping is what you want to use on that rubber down there. Not the stuff at home depot, its for weatherstripping, and last much longer then that oily stuff. But it will still rub until you get it re-aligned. any squeak will be gone thooguh.

2.2balt

You could try putting some vinyl & rubber cleaner/conditioner (I use Meguiars #40), and just keep an eye on the doors every so often. The paint will eventually rub off. Its a contact area. Just touch it up. Not like anyone will see it.

Also keep in mind rust starts from the inside out of these cars...especially othe doors. I have my car Rust Checked every year so it should be good. If not, lifetime warranty so w/e.

Another place people should check is under that bottom rubber seal. It collects ass-loads of dirt and stuff that will promote rust (salt in the winter too). Another area is the drainage area in the rear wheel wells. You should be able to see a like 1/2" x 1/2" square opening just above the side-skirt (I don't have the skirts so I can plainly see, but it may be covered knowing GM...lol). I occasionally spray some Rust Check inhibitor fluid in there to make sure its all nice and protected.

darklide

Berto09ss

no problem here
mine are just fine

chris88z24

galvanized steel doors ftw.

Omega1x

Well I'll have to check to see if mine's doing this. Thanks for the heads up.

edacsac

Mine does it too. Funny though, the gap around the door looks perfect against the body as far as alignment. Must be the dirt.

quickboat

Mine is still pretty good but I keep it clean and lube the rubber seal with silicone grease. 20k miles.

Red-head

I'm dealing with this underside of the doors issue now. I've babied the cobalt for 5+ years, i.e. detailed every other week, polished twice a year, waxed or sealed paint 3-4 times per year, lightly driven (only 33k on the odometer). Even so, the driver-side door still developed a small amount of rust on the under/inside and, the paint on the passenger's side had worn away. The car was taken to a local body-shop for rust repair and re-painting of this under door area. Within one month of this repair the paint had completely failed. I took the car back a second time and had the shop re-do the job. So far, so good. I'm taking the car back to them in 2 weeks to have it checked.

Someone recommended earlier in this thread about using 3M paint protection film to stop this problem from recurring. Any tips?

From the pictures of the 2011 Cruze, it looks like GM finally got a clue and redesigned the door seals. I'm still not buying one...

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

you could 3M, but that, just like your original paint will also come off ~ but paint would last longer.

the lower door seal is made of (IMHO) too thick rubber ~ if it was softer it wouldn't rub the paint off as fast ~ but it would also not seal the door as well.

I am almost a month to the day, from my first full year of ownership - and I have been watching this from nearly day one.
(I make sure to clean off the underside of my door bottom, as well as wipe clean the backside of the door skin, and clean the door seal (on both sides).

I plan on touching up the paint, then putting a THICK transparent rubber rub strip on the inside of the door... hopefully that will take care of it for a while.

C_A_D88

yea the boottom edge of my doors are rusting to ****...starting to creep out on the exterior side of the doors... paints starting to peel on the driverside doors and there are chips in the passenger side door and the 2 rear doors are starting as well... need to get it fixed asap, gm wants 800 bucks to fix it...i dunno if its gonna be because there gonna repaint the whole doors or what. but i think im gonna look elsewhere for quotes

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

keep in mind that even the galvaized coating is only good for so long;
typically also gavanized doesn't allow paint to adhere as well...

new doors might be the way to do it with the least labor involved, but the cost of finding replacement doors probably makes it too cost prohibitive...

Kahless

hell i need to check mine out. tho not living up north and having to deal with snow n salt might save me. as old as my car is tho it warrants a look

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

it has more to do with exposure to moisture/elements than salt persay ~ salt will only speed up the process.

everyone here has this ~ the lower rocker panel mounted door seal rubs off the paint on the backside of the door skin, there's no way around it.

Kahless

havent noticed anything in 6 years. maybe i havent been looking hard enough. gonna check in a few minutes when i go on break.

Red-head

I'm puzzled. Not saying it's a bad idea or anything. If the the 3M film will eventually fail, (I'm guessing because of failure of the underlying paint) then it stands to reason that the same issue would happen with the rubber strip.

This problem is my only gripe about the Cobalt. Otherwise, it's been a fine little car.

Red-head

If the shop is going down to bare metal on all 4 doors, then $800 seems low to me. Anything involving re-spraying body panels is expensive for sure...that is if you're after good quality. If they are only repairing the underside door seals, e.g. rust repair followed by a two stage paint kit, then $800 seems a tad high to me.

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

this happened to me.covered under warranty and then they put a clear tint over it

strazdice

iTrader: (1)

ya and check the top mine is doin it on the top as well!!! matherf**kers!! cheap s**t!! ahhhh

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I actually noticed that the top/rear of the drivers door had something going on right after I bought it;
there were corresponding spots between the top of the door, and the door frame where the paint was poping off;
although that exact problem was not ever explained, my door alignment was off which made for (extra) wind noise from the mirror area;
my door alignment was corrected, and the paint now seems to pop off alot less in that area... but it still does.

Just posting incase this helps you.
(becasue this is what the bumper to bumper warranty is for)

tmaddox

Vaseline is petroleum base and will degrade the weatherstripping. It should only be used as a marital aid...put it on the outside of the bedroom door knob to keep the kids from interrupting you.

Use Silicone spray, or Gunk brand plumbers silicone grease. resists heat and cold well. At any hardware store or big box building supply store.
http://http://www.lowes.com/pd_817-1...rchQueryType=1

Red-head

Well it seems after much effort the problem is solved. The body shop resorted to a clear stone chip tape along the contact area. They cut little semi-circles out where the drain holes are. The rust is repaired. Yeah! Now I just gotta fix the under-body rust...sheesh, it never ends...

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

mines all fixed wit clear tint on it :-)

Arrival_Blue

Silicone Spray.