Magz_rule

iTrader: (3)

So after a nice pull in any gear, sometimes my clutch pedal will stick to the floor for a second and get stiff and wont come back up right away after a shift. If i drive it slow and dont get on it, I havent seen it do it then. What should I be looking at? any recommendations?

advise

iTrader: (3)

try bleeding the clutch make sure your brake fluid isnt black
and if that dont work your master or slave is bad or you could have a leak
but black brake fluid is a sign of deteriorating seals

Magz_rule

iTrader: (3)

Hope its not the slave :/ That requires dropping the transmission yes?

bluebalt07

iTrader: (8)

^Yes. Not really hard to do but not something anyone looks forward to either

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

i had a very similar experience with my stock clutch. driving normal it was fine. if i drove it hard, when i stuck the clutch in for 2nd gear it would only come back 1" off the floor, but fully engage the clutch. when i went to grab 3rd the clutch was very stiff, but it would come up very high and grab right at the top. after cycling the clutch a few times it would go back to normal and be like that till i beat on it again. it would also only happen if i took it above 6500rpm.

now im my professional opinion (im a transmission builder/diagnostician) this isnt caused by hydraulics. clutch hydraulics are one of those things that they work or they dont. they dont randomly get air in them unless the fluid has run out, and in that case something is leaking. the fluid will absorb moisture, however if your having clutch problems because of that, you should be having brake problems as they share the same resevior.

i have a theory on whats going on, but ive never been able to prove it. first off, you need to understand that a typical clutch will start to release higher up on the pedal as it wears out, till the point the clutch grabs right at the top when its worn out. the ss/sc uses whats called a self adjusting pressure plate, the idea behind this is as the clutch wears the pressure plate adjusts for the wear so the release height of the pedal is at the same point through the clutches life, till its worn past the point it can adjust and the pedal starts to come up. its a great idea in theory, works well on most vehicles. my theory is that the self adjusting mechanism has a problem, or is being affected by the higher rpm as allowed by the stage kits (it was designed for 6500rpm max, stage kits are 7000).

my only proof for this theory is i put in the gmpp clutch kit and the problem went away. the gmpp clutch kit, same as the ss/tc clutch, does not use a self adjusting pressure plate.

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

Im not quite sure of your theory Sharkey, I have a very similar, almost exactly the same problem as the OP and im using the ACT clutch, not a stocker

Bluelightning

iTrader: (8)

I had a problem with my clutch sometimes going rock sold after a WOT pull. I bought it used and ever since I bought sometimes there would be nothing when I would push in the clutch until about the last quarter of it. But if I pumped the hell out of it, it would come back and work right at the top again. Well I just swapped my clutch to a GMPP one a few weeks ago. When I pulled the trans the throwout bearing was in pieces. But since I've swapped the clutch I've had zero issues with it going hard after a pull or my clutch pedal having "play" in it.

rekameohs_nire

iTrader: (1)

Im having the same issues. Is a whole new clutch needed. I was told by someone it might just be the pressure plate

Bluelightning

iTrader: (8)

If you are doing a job like pulling the trans out just change it all. GMPP is a great afforable upgrade.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

I read that the original LSJ TOB bled off pressure or something of the sort and it was a flaw and that the new LNF design obviously fixes that.
Maybe it's relevant to your problem?

PenguinPIE

iTrader: (5)

I had exactly that happened to me, clutch would get stuck almost down to the floor after shifting at high rpm (around 6k) and it takes a couple of pumps/ shifts to get it back up

the dealer topped up my clutch fluid and it was good as before

Still on original clutch

rekameohs_nire

iTrader: (1)

Ill have to try that before i go buying a new clutch

insylem

I have same problem too. cost me 2 seconds in the 1/4 mile at IFO last year.
Ive tried topping off my fluid. This weekend hopefully I'll do a fluid bleed and
change.

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

Tried pretty much everything in this thread

Im running:
ACT clutch
LNF TOB
New Master
Bled more times than I can count
Fluid is fine level wise

I was told by ACT that I may have broken the diaphragm in the pressure plate but not quite sure of that

Im thinking the next thing I should replace is the clutch line and Ill disconnect the distribution block, check all the gaskets and grommets and reassemble, bleed and hope for the best.

Magz_rule

iTrader: (3)

Wow. Well at least I'm not alone in this lol. I'm going to try starting with some new fluid this weekend and go from there

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

yep so if I solve mine or you solve yours or anyone solves this, please post it for everyone to see and hopefully get this whole thing fixed for everyone

insylem

I just flushed and changed my brake and clutch fluid today. The fluid in the brake lines was pretty clean but the clutch line fluid was black and had little chunks of black stuff floating in it.....


Also: Malfunction still presists, however the pedal does not go stiff anymore, but the other symptoms still exist.

insylem

Just noticed this on ZZP's web site:
GM ACDelco - Upgraded Throwout Bearing for LSJ #GM-24242805

"Depending on preload and engine rpm this clutch often goes over center. The fingers pass center and it overextends the throw out bearing. The travel is supposed to be checked upon clutch installation and in some cases a spacer is added to adjust the travel."


This sounds like it might explain what's going on...
Hey ZOOMER! Can you provide more info please?

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

mine worked fine for over a year and then failed, so I dont think its going over center unless the fingers or diaphragm has failed on the clutch

DSmastery

iTrader: (5)

Back from the Grave, not really a bump

Just wanted to say i been having this problem off and on for a few months, only WOT 1st-2nd. not every time tho

but this week it happened 2nd-3rd WOT

gonna get the fluids changed and see what happens. i do have small oil like leak, could be something else tho

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

most likely leaking clutch line and burning fluid. get a braided stainless line from TH Motorsports, my problem ended up being a broken clutch disc (I seperated the springs from the disc and they were floating around wedging between the plate and the disc so I couldnt get good connection

DSmastery

iTrader: (5)

that sounds good, ill check them out. i probably should of posted earlier in the week haha

the only time i have to get to a shop is on Sat. that limits when i can get stuff done if i dont do it myself.

BlackielawlessSS

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the slave

DSmastery

iTrader: (5)

im a slavveee for you

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

just started noticing a similar issue to u guys the other day on a datalog. everytime I do hard pulls my pedal gets soft and engages a few inches off the floor. its very easy to push pedal till those few inches. then after when I drive normal for a minute or 2 the clutch returns to its normal feel.