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Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

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Old 01-22-2012, 11:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Slowline View Post
or at the most if noone has them unlocked, pay 100 for the credits and the 5 minutes to turn the fans on. idk how people are where you're at i'd help a brother out for that though lol.
i would definitely pay if it actually worked lol you have no idea how much ive missed it working properly... since past halloween lol
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:00 AM   #27
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LSJ Fan Inop Troubleshooting
This is from the GM Service manual for 2006 Chevy Cobalt I think your 07 but they are both still LSJs
Based on what youve said so far, we can safely skip to step 7 (Sounds like youve already done Steps 1- 6

Step 7: Inspect the ground circuit of the S/P fan relay for an open or high resistance:
Did you find a probelm and did this fix it?
Yes = Step 25
No = Step 15

Step 15: Inspect for poor connections at the S/P fan relay.
Did you find a problem and did this fix it?
Yes = Step 25
No = Step 21

Step 21: Replace S/P Fan Relay
Yes = Step 25
No = Step -

Step 25: Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
Yes = System OK
No = Go to step 3 (Let me know if you need step 3)


This chart is a little large to put it all on here,
Let me know if you got it fixed or if you need more of the troubleshooting steps
I know you mentioned you chaged the Fan2 and Fan1 relays but I didnt seen
anyone mention the S/P Relay, Schematic does show it connects to the fans.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:33 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insylem View Post
LSJ Fan Inop Troubleshooting
This is from the GM Service manual for 2006 Chevy Cobalt I think your 07 but they are both still LSJs
Based on what youve said so far, we can safely skip to step 7 (Sounds like youve already done Steps 1- 6

Step 7: Inspect the ground circuit of the S/P fan relay for an open or high resistance:
Did you find a probelm and did this fix it?
Yes = Step 25
No = Step 15

Step 15: Inspect for poor connections at the S/P fan relay.
Did you find a problem and did this fix it?
Yes = Step 25
No = Step 21

Step 21: Replace S/P Fan Relay
Yes = Step 25
No = Step -

Step 25: Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
Yes = System OK
No = Go to step 3 (Let me know if you need step 3)


This chart is a little large to put it all on here,
Let me know if you got it fixed or if you need more of the troubleshooting steps
I know you mentioned you chaged the Fan2 and Fan1 relays but I didnt seen
anyone mention the S/P Relay, Schematic does show it connects to the fans.
i will try all of this tomorrow after work! i was going crazy not being able to find these kind of info! thanks man!
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FryLoch View Post
I've said this before. The electric fan systems on these cars are terrible! I've never seen that high but I've 220+ many times in the summer. Really poor design. Fans are supposed to come on at 225, how stupid is that?! Normal operating temp is 180ish.
The T-stat in this car is not setup for a 180 degree temperature, most newer engines are much higher than that. Higher temps are good for fuel economy and engine wear (look it up), but bad for performance. You are not getting performance sitting in traffic, so it isn't really relevant. If you are racing the car, you should tune, and can use that to lower your fan turn-on points. The fans are plenty strong enough to manage the heat, once they come on the engine cools down quickly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosmart4 View Post
i will try all of this tomorrow after work! i was going crazy not being able to find these kind of info! thanks man!
Your issue sounds mechanical, not electrical. Since you have wired the fans and they work, and your DIC display is working (you are correct in your assumption of how the control circut works), the only thing possible is the PCM not commanding the fans on. Follow that flowchart to find if it works, if that is not helping i'd suggest a coolant flush and then change the thermostat, a partially stuck closed one will let the hoses get warm but not flow enough coolant. Drill the replacement to help in the future.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:52 AM   #30
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Just in case: I Looked at the Schematic and tried to give a good discription of whats going on (electrically) with the fans. Even if it doesn't help with the problem, maybe it helps some one ealse who finds this thread with a similar poblem.
Also note: S/P Relay, and Sep/Par repay is the same thing. I believe it stands for Seperate/ Paired as it appears to either seperate or pair the fan operation.

LSJ Cooling Fan Operation:
Based on my reading of the LSJ Engine Cooling Fan schematic
The PCM supplies 2 ground signals to energize the Fan1, S/P and Fan2 Relays.
When fans are off:
PCM supplies no grounds
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = De-energized
COOL FAN2 = De-energized
S/P = De-energized
Electricity goes
Nowhere, open circuit

When Fans are in low speed:
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN1 Relay to energize relay
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = Energized
COOL FAN2 = De-energized
S/P = De-energized
Electricity goes
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 1 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN1 Relay
Through cooling fan 1 motor
Through de-energized contacts (normally closed) Ser/Par
Through cooling fan 2 motor
Ground

When Fans are in high speed:
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN1 Relay to energize relay
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN2 and S/P Relays to energize relays
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = Energized
COOL FAN2 = Energized
S/P = Energized
Electricity goes
Path 1:
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 1 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN1 Relay
Through cooling fan 1 motor
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the S/P Relay
Ground
Path 2:
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 2 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN2 Relay
Through cooling fan 2 motor
Ground
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:18 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
The T-stat in this car is not setup for a 180 degree temperature, most newer engines are much higher than that. Higher temps are good for fuel economy and engine wear (look it up), but bad for performance. You are not getting performance sitting in traffic, so it isn't really relevant. If you are racing the car, you should tune, and can use that to lower your fan turn-on points. The fans are plenty strong enough to manage the heat, once they come on the engine cools down quickly.


Your issue sounds mechanical, not electrical. Since you have wired the fans and they work, and your DIC display is working (you are correct in your assumption of how the control circut works), the only thing possible is the PCM not commanding the fans on. Follow that flowchart to find if it works, if that is not helping i'd suggest a coolant flush and then change the thermostat, a partially stuck closed one will let the hoses get warm but not flow enough coolant. Drill the replacement to help in the future.
i got a coolant flush and t-stat replacement 2 months ago cuz i thought it was the problem but thats when i realized it was the fans not coming on... but i will have to check the pcm if the problem persists
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:24 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insylem View Post
Just in case: I Looked at the Schematic and tried to give a good discription of whats going on (electrically) with the fans. Even if it doesn't help with the problem, maybe it helps some one ealse who finds this thread with a similar poblem.
Also note: S/P Relay, and Sep/Par repay is the same thing. I believe it stands for Seperate/ Paired as it appears to either seperate or pair the fan operation.

LSJ Cooling Fan Operation:
Based on my reading of the LSJ Engine Cooling Fan schematic
The PCM supplies 2 ground signals to energize the Fan1, S/P and Fan2 Relays.
When fans are off:
PCM supplies no grounds
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = De-energized
COOL FAN2 = De-energized
S/P = De-energized
Electricity goes
Nowhere, open circuit

When Fans are in low speed:
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN1 Relay to energize relay
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = Energized
COOL FAN2 = De-energized
S/P = De-energized
Electricity goes
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 1 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN1 Relay
Through cooling fan 1 motor
Through de-energized contacts (normally closed) Ser/Par
Through cooling fan 2 motor
Ground

When Fans are in high speed:
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN1 Relay to energize relay
PCM Supplies ground to COOL FAN2 and S/P Relays to energize relays
Relay States should be
COOL FAN1 = Energized
COOL FAN2 = Energized
S/P = Energized
Electricity goes
Path 1:
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 1 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN1 Relay
Through cooling fan 1 motor
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the S/P Relay
Ground
Path 2:
Through 30Amp Cooling Fan 2 Fuse
Through energized contacts (normally open) of the COOL FAN2 Relay
Through cooling fan 2 motor
Ground
i will replace the S/P relay when i get home from work and ill check everything again ,hope thats the only problem! thanks for all the info!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:24 AM   #33
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Checking the PCM should be easy enough. Just take out the Fan1, 2 and S/P Relays, and Check for a ground on the part where the coil plugs in on one side and power on the other. All the PCM does to turn on the relays is give them a ground. But make sure the relays are suposed to be on. (Temp > 230 F)

If you have no ground on the relay coils, check the wiresbetween the relay coils and the PCM.
I find it unlikley that BOTH the High and Low speed PCM relays would be bad at the same time,
however it's not impossible.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:23 PM   #34
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help asap please

sorry to bring up an old post but was there ever a solution found in now in the same boat lol. only now im in hawaii instead of texas turbosmart lol. text me at 9039480075 please and thank you!!
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:38 PM   #35
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my car has been hitting 250 in honolulus bullshit traffic quiet often and im gettin scared that its not gona hold up very longer.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:22 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Craig View Post
my car has been hitting 250 in honolulus bullshit traffic quiet often and im gettin scared that its not gona hold up very longer.
Aloha,
Having fun on the H1 I see...

Are you getting code P1258?

I can't find anything that straight out says what an overheat condition is temp wise..

But @ 230 both fans will run on high.
The P1258 Code is an overtemp code that does not trigger till Coolant reaches 262F for 8 seconds. So you still ahve 12F to go if you're just hitting 250F. Is it going down? Or staying at 250? Are you getting any kind of warning lights? I know the H1 "parking lot" can be rough, Iwas there 2001 - 2004 I can only imagine that it's gotten worse. Sitting in traffic with the hot air from the other car's exhaust blowing over your radiator fins doesnt help much either.

If your engine DOES overheat, the PCM will turn off the fuel injectors to 2 cyldiners. This will help reduce engine tempatures.

But check, do your fan(s) come on? High? Low? Both? Does it overheat if you're in a vacant parking lot idleing?

Is your radiator hot to the touch when its been running? Fins free? Clogged?
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:32 AM   #37
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Goin to head to the local hobby shop Monday and have them take a look at it for me. Hoping it's a bad ground somewhere.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:02 PM   #38
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:02 PM
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