LotusEater

Hey guys i'm having a problem with my 07 Le5 lately. I bought the car a year ago and never had this problem with the first clutch. It seems like after I replaced the clutch it drove good for a month and then this happened. Im driving along and my cruise isn't working. Owell, it came back on the nexxt time I drove it. Eventually it stopped working at all. I'm like what the heck. A few weeks after that the RPMS start surging upward when I'm shifting, like I'm holding the gas and depressing the clutch at the same time. I'm almost certain there is an issue with it; so I bring it in to my mech. He says its working now because he cleared the PCM. Not even a day later and the problem came back with a CEL p0833. No clue what that was but After researching it , we decided to replace the clutch switch and the problem went away for 4 days but then the problem came back. So we concluded that it wasn't the lower clutch switch or anything with the TB . No leaks or nothin. Now I'm manually reseting the PCM by removing the battery connectors. This works. All the sudden I had a metalic scraping noise so I figured it waas the belt. My mechanic charged me 400 to replace the AC compressor. The sound went away. I still have no clue to the root cause of the p0833 code and symptoms. I threw away my key fob, maybe there is some signal that is throwing the PCM off. It's worth a chance. The only other thing I can think of is a new Throttle body, New PCM, new wiring or electrical issues, and last but not least, that second switch that nobody seems to know about. The Clutch position sensor*. But If you know anything that might work, please tell me.
thanks.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

if you havent yet changed the clutch position sensor on the top of the clutch pedal, do that. p0833 is the code for that sensor. your throttle body key fob or a/c compressor clutch have nothing to do with it.

LotusEater

Ive dissected my old switch and new switch that I that i am using right now, and they look almost identical inside and out. What I'm trying to say is that there is a root cause. There is something bugging the PCM out , or shorting out, that is causing a false p0833 code to be thrown. The code p0833 relates directly to that part; although many things can trigger that code. Just because something triggers the code, does not mean that you have a bad switch. If a toddler fires a gun and kills a guy, you want to blame the gun, but the truth is we don't know why the toddler shot the gun. If you can find out why the toddler shot the gun you can prevent it from happening again. I think there is a toddler somewhere inside my car. Just saying, he's pulling that trigger every 10 miles, and i'm stuck until I can find out why it is happening. Is it a different switch or sensor somewhere that is shorted out or broken besides the switch right above the clutch pedal? that would be a start.

LotusEater

BTW I don't really mean stuck ROFL
Just feel that way, since I have to :
Remove the battery cables to reset
and then drive for 10 miles.

LotusEater

Ive found this one; but once again, im not sure if this is a viable answer to my problem. (take a look https://www.google.com/search?q=coba...HWQgqPkVHPeYM:

THis is considered to be a clutch position sensor for Chevy Cobalt.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

what year/model/engine is the car?

LotusEater

Sharkey 2007 SS Naturally Aspirated 2.4

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

the pedal on the right is what we have. the lower switch is the clutch start switch, if that goes bad the car doesnt start, and it serves no other function other than starting. the switch on the top is the clutch pedal sensor, used by the computer. this is the sensor responsible for the p0833 code. if you havent changed that sensor, change it. and its not a 5 minute job to do.

LotusEater

Thanks in person for the illustration. Yea I actually found it today after searching for a second switch. What people were complaining about is how hard it is to get to it and replace it.

LotusEater

Update: I finally located the clutch position sensor way up there. I put my hand up there as far as I could and barely tapped the switch. It must have done something because the codes went Away now that I reset the computer, again. Either that or it was because I replaced the AC compressor. For some reason it drives excellent now. Can't complain either way. All that, and I didn't have to replace the switch, which could have cost my 200 bux.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

touching the switch likely jiggled the connection or seated it down a little further. i can 110% tell you it had nothing to do with the a/c compressor.

LotusEater

K thanks