Really high amount of Knock retard.
10-29-2014, 08:26 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Really high amount of Knock retard.
Lately I've been seeing 9-10 Degrees of knock retard and it's really annoying to have no power. Can gunked up valves at 82k cause it?
10-29-2014, 09:37 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Moderator
you guys are bad
10-31-2014, 01:43 PM
#13
A new head has fixed my knock.
I had 2-4 degrees consistently on low rpms when initially driving. Also, I would get very occassional 8-10 degrees in the first five minutes if I didn't drive it as slow as possible haha.
One day it clicked that it was the valves causing it. I had to pull out into busy traffic and the car wasn't warmed up, probably hit a couple lbs of boost nothing crazy. Well I noticed the knock go up to 11 degrees and felt as if I was getting no airflow. When I drive away at the stop light, all of sudden the car "breathes" and the knock goes back down to it's normal 2-3 degrees at the beginning.
08 ss/tc with 90k at the time. No more than 1.5 degrees very occassionally since the change 3k ago. my intake valve on #2 had so much gunk the valve couldn't seat properly and was constantly getting stuck. The process of removing intake mani to just look at valves was a complete pain but completely worth it to see how my valves really were. I also had random misfire codes that would show up on aeroforce but not check engine light except for the story above caused a light for a couple days (even had a p0302 which went with the most coked valve). Parked it and waited on the new head and arp head studs from zzp, and ordered slightly used rockers and lash adjustors from jreiland.
Long story short, good luck and check out those valves!
10-31-2014, 02:13 PM
#14
So you put a whole new head on instead of cleaning the valves?
For $100 and a day of work you could have cleaned them yourself. Hell you took the manifold off already. All you had to do was clean and see if it cleared up.
Unless your valve seats were screwed up of course.
For $100 and a day of work you could have cleaned them yourself. Hell you took the manifold off already. All you had to do was clean and see if it cleared up.
Unless your valve seats were screwed up of course.
10-31-2014, 03:10 PM
#15
So you put a whole new head on instead of cleaning the valves?
For $100 and a day of work you could have cleaned them yourself. Hell you took the manifold off already. All you had to do was clean and see if it cleared up.
Unless your valve seats were screwed up of course.
For $100 and a day of work you could have cleaned them yourself. Hell you took the manifold off already. All you had to do was clean and see if it cleared up.
Unless your valve seats were screwed up of course.
10-31-2014, 05:20 PM
#19
A new head has fixed my knock.
I had 2-4 degrees consistently on low rpms when initially driving. Also, I would get very occassional 8-10 degrees in the first five minutes if I didn't drive it as slow as possible haha.
One day it clicked that it was the valves causing it. I had to pull out into busy traffic and the car wasn't warmed up, probably hit a couple lbs of boost nothing crazy. Well I noticed the knock go up to 11 degrees and felt as if I was getting no airflow. When I drive away at the stop light, all of sudden the car "breathes" and the knock goes back down to it's normal 2-3 degrees at the beginning.
08 ss/tc with 90k at the time. No more than 1.5 degrees very occassionally since the change 3k ago. my intake valve on #2 had so much gunk the valve couldn't seat properly and was constantly getting stuck. The process of removing intake mani to just look at valves was a complete pain but completely worth it to see how my valves really were. I also had random misfire codes that would show up on aeroforce but not check engine light except for the story above caused a light for a couple days (even had a p0302 which went with the most coked valve). Parked it and waited on the new head and arp head studs from zzp, and ordered slightly used rockers and lash adjustors from jreiland.
Long story short, good luck and check out those valves!
I had 2-4 degrees consistently on low rpms when initially driving. Also, I would get very occassional 8-10 degrees in the first five minutes if I didn't drive it as slow as possible haha.
One day it clicked that it was the valves causing it. I had to pull out into busy traffic and the car wasn't warmed up, probably hit a couple lbs of boost nothing crazy. Well I noticed the knock go up to 11 degrees and felt as if I was getting no airflow. When I drive away at the stop light, all of sudden the car "breathes" and the knock goes back down to it's normal 2-3 degrees at the beginning.
08 ss/tc with 90k at the time. No more than 1.5 degrees very occassionally since the change 3k ago. my intake valve on #2 had so much gunk the valve couldn't seat properly and was constantly getting stuck. The process of removing intake mani to just look at valves was a complete pain but completely worth it to see how my valves really were. I also had random misfire codes that would show up on aeroforce but not check engine light except for the story above caused a light for a couple days (even had a p0302 which went with the most coked valve). Parked it and waited on the new head and arp head studs from zzp, and ordered slightly used rockers and lash adjustors from jreiland.
Long story short, good luck and check out those valves!
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