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Hey guys. Yesterday, I went out side to leave and I turned the key and my car cranked over for probably about 10 seconds, but I didn't really think anything of it. After that, the car was fine the rest of the day, but when I got home after work, I noticed a very strong smell of gas when I got out of the car. Then, this morning once again I went to my car and it took even longer to crank (possibly 15-18 seconds), and then when I got to my destination, I could smell gas VERY strong when I went to my trunk. I'm just wondering if you guys have had this problem or can help me out. Thanks in advance!
Check the fuel lines for leaks. Sounds like loss of fuel pressure from a fuel leak from what you describe. Since you said the odor was strong near the trunk, the connections at the fuel filter could be to blame. My daughters Saturn had a fuel leak right in front of the rear wheel well and the car started hard and ran like ****.
Update: I jacked the back of the car tonight, and I saw a dripping of gas in front of the drivers side rear tire. Does anyone know how I could take the line off or how hard/expensive it is? Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!
You need to look and see where exactly it's leaking from. There is a common issue (it was a warranty extension for some people) of the fuel pump itself cracking and leaking. Or the lines can leak.
The lines come as one piece from the fuel pump to the engine bay, I've replaced it and it's not fun even on a lift, as the line is about 10 feet long and has many bends that need to be maneuvered into place in a certain way.
I've also repaired sections of damaged metal lines by using a tubing cutter to remove the rusted out area and then installing fuel line hose and clamps in it's place, or if it's a long run use short hoses and new metal line in between.
If the pump is the culprit, meaning you see fuel running down it and not from the lines on the body, you need to remove the gas tank for access to change it. No other way around that.
Pictures of the affected area will help if you aren't sure. Just be mindful not to get gas on you as you stick your face under the car, it's not fun.
You need to look and see where exactly it's leaking from. There is a common issue (it was a warranty extension for some people) of the fuel pump itself cracking and leaking. Or the lines can leak. The lines come as one piece from the fuel pump to the engine bay, I've replaced it and it's not fun even on a lift, as the line is about 10 feet long and has many bends that need to be maneuvered into place in a certain way. I've also repaired sections of damaged metal lines by using a tubing cutter to remove the rusted out area and then installing fuel line hose and clamps in it's place, or if it's a long run use short hoses and new metal line in between. If the pump is the culprit, meaning you see fuel running down it and not from the lines on the body, you need to remove the gas tank for access to change it. No other way around that. Pictures of the affected area will help if you aren't sure. Just be mindful not to get gas on you as you stick your face under the car, it's not fun.
Here is your answer! There is a company that sells a metal line patch kit on eBay but you have to cut part of the metal line to replace it as joe said. That's if it's the line and not the tank.
Thanks a lot for the help! I'm not a huge car guy so I'm not as knowledgeable as others lol. I did notice that when I looked under the car, it was were a little black "coupler" was where the leak was. I didn't see if the line itself had a hole, but I did see that there was dripping and a considerable puddle under the car. My last question is, will the car be safe to drive for a few more days, or should I get off the road and call a tow truck?
The black piece is just a plastic holder, that bolts to the car and supports the fuel supply, evap purge and brake lines. It tends to rust right there in my experience.
Remove the plastic piece, cut back the braided heat shielding sleeve if it's in that area, and cut the line out as far as you need to to get back to solid, non-rusty line. Usually it's not very far.
Replace the affected section and you should be good to go.
As far as safety... I could never advise driving a car with a fuel leak. It's very flammable, and just not safe. It will only get worse, and it's right by your exhaust, which isn't a great situation. For me, I'd try not to drive the car until you get it repaired. The consequences are just too severe if the car catches fire.
I spliced a length of fuel line on my daughters car with some compression fittings. Hers was rusted about the same area your line is. Wasn't a bad job, just a pain bending the line around the wheel well area. Gotta love living in a rust belt state!
As ItalianJoe stated, repair as soon as possible. We discovered the leak at my in-law's house, so for safety reasons, I followed her home.
I've also repaired sections of damaged metal lines by using a tubing cutter to remove the rusted out area and then installing fuel line hose and clamps in it's place, or if it's a long run use short hoses and new metal line in between.
I had the same issue with having to crank it for a while, smelling gas, seeing gas dripping in front of my driver's side rear wheel. The lines were rusted out. They follow up the rear wheel well, were wrapped in some tinfoil like tape as I recall and were rusted out under that foil tape. I bought some high pressure line, a few screw clamps, got my tubing cutter out, jacked up the side of the car, cut out the rusted line sections. I didn't use a saw or dremel because I didn't want little metal bits getting into the fuel lines. A tubing cutter doesn't create any of the metal dust. Took me about 40 minutes to do. I had to cut out 2 sections of line. One for the feed line and one for the return line and they were rusted out in the same spot. You might want to stagger your cuts a couple inches (cut off an inch or two more of one of the lines) so you don't have screw clamps on top of each other and can have the head of the clamp face the way that's easiest to tighten on all the clamps. Also don't position the clamps so a sharp edge of a clamp is rubbing on the other rubber line (if you have to repair both sections like I did). I also ziptied the two rubber sections together in a few spots to keep them from flapping around.
thank you guys very much for the help... much appreciated. One last question, could you give me part # or the part I could put on the line that I cut, I will do this myself. Autozone couldn't find a part #, so I just need some more help finding the right part to put on... any further help would be very helpful! Thanks again!
look up the diameter of the hard fuel line on our cars and get the same size high pressure rubber fuel line. i'm guessing a search on a search engine would reveal this. I can't remember what it was off hand.
I think I used 7/16 hose to slide over the fuel line, but I honestly don't remember.
Worst case, cut out the piece you are gonna replace, then take it with you to get a hose that fits over it. I used something I had on hand, I don't recall if it was 3/8" or 7/16". Maybe 3/8 because the line would be about 10mm, and it was a very snug fit. I'd have to measure to be sure.
Hey guys! Thanks to all who helped me out. Well, today I went and decided to do what everyone said. Yesterday, after work, i went to autozone and bought 1 foot of 3/8 fuel hose, and some clamps and heat shield. Then, today I took heat shield and coupler off, and i found that both my return and going fuel lines had significant holes in them. So, i went to the store, bought a pipe cutter, and was able to make nice fine cutouts in each line. Then, I put on the new hose, and clamped it all up. Definetly the hardest and most annoying part was getting the new heat shield on the lines... that was a pain. But, i was able to get it all done, and car runs very well now, and starts up just fine. Overall, it took me about 2 or so hours, but im a little "slow" when it comes to working on cars. I appreciate all the help i have received! Without you guys, i wouldn't have been able to do it.
Finished product... i had to zip tie them to stay up out of the way.
I had the problem with my 07 took it in, the gas tank was rusted, they replaced it for free, it is a lifetime warrenty on the tank for 06 and 07 i called chevy before i took into dealership
I had the problem with my 07 took it in, the gas tank was rusted, they replaced it for free, it is a lifetime warrenty on the tank for 06 and 07 i called chevy before i took into dealership
The tank is plastic, it doesn't rust.
The fuel pump sender unit cracks, and has a warranty extension. It's also plastic but a common problem on the 07 cars.
12-01-2016, 12:53 PM
