BoostedEco

I have been professionally detailing for several years now and thought I'd offer my advice to anyone seeking it. I will post a picture or 2 for reference. This is Reduf's car I did a few days ago.





Thanks everyone!

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

What do you use as far as cutting compound? Take it you use a PC?

BoostedEco

I use products from a company called Ardex, I use their 1000 Compound to cut with a rotary and wool pad, and then use a flex forced rotation DA and their polish glaze 3000, and then I finish up with a carnuba wax.

Of course I prep with a good clay using a spray wax.

07cobaltLScoupe

wacks on - wacks off

my cousin used to detail for Chevy 21 and Deichman Walker before they closed, all he used was Ardex... i pretty much stick with Mequiar's/ Mother's and i'm happy. the more you take care or your paint the less time/energy you'll have to use in the long run

BoostedEco

I'll also sometimes throw their 1 step glaze in there called Hi-Def #1 or #2 if it needs it, minimal correction but makes it super smooth.

Stalking? Get your ass in my shop lol

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

Yes I have been getting into more detailing so I am always looking for new products. I also start with a full wash, then clay bar. I found a detail spray "Gary Deans Infinite Use Boost Juice"...works very well and with being a concentrate it is nice not having to worry with how much I use haha

BoostedEco

I have experience with Autosmart and Ardex products, both more towards industrial only because I work in a shop, but they do offer small amount containers. Have you began to buff or do any paint correction?

cobaltalex

iTrader: (1)

So my paint is white and if you get up really close you can see little specs that are brown. They almost look like rust but it on top of the clear and comes off with clay bar. Do you know Amy faster more effeicent ways of getting it off? Thanks.

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

Yes I have been messing with The Meguires Professional Line and using the M105/205 for some paint correction. The owner before me didnt take care of the paint at all. It has been an uphill battle ever since I got the car. Expample of before and after...

BEFORE..



AFTER...



Obviously that is only a small section and one coat of each but I think it worked pretty well...

BoostedEco

What size? really tiny like dust or like pin heads? If its like dust and very thick all over the place it could have been from a siezed caliper or what we call "raildust" (living by railways) or if they are big and soft but are a pita to get off they are mold spores these will be much elss and all over...

Pic?


Looks good man!

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

Yea It's getting there spend about a day a panel. Just trying to get every imperfection out

BoostedEco

Just keep an eye on what you are using, if there are a lot of silicone's or like kerosene in the products you use they only cover up. You're going to need compound and polish.

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

What do you recommend?

Nevermind I re-read the previous comment

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Have you claybarred before? What that does is essentially pull off all little contaminants on your clearcoat like little dirt specs and brake dust. Heck ive even ysed it to remove small adhesive residue. Just do it right after u wash.

cobaltsssc760

i actually have some spots with some scratches from some police dogs jumping on my **** and another spotwhere its almost like i can see the base coat coming through. i need some advice if its possible to bring back

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Lol u gotta repain that area. No bringing that back. Some surface scratches can be buffed out if there is still color.

cobaltsssc760

thats what i figured been thinking of claiming sand damage and getting it painted just dont hve the time

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

Any advice for fall out, after it rain mines covered in fall out from the industrial are, i do not paint seal after i wax, i think thats whats doing it..

Omnigear

iTrader: (4)

post your equipment and how you do what you do

BoostedEco

Fallout needs to be clay bared to be removed MOST of the time. Then you wanna keep a good paste wax on the car. If fallout is an issue in your area I would was and wax every few weeks to maintain a good layer of protection.

BoostedEco

I use a Dewalt Rotary Buffer and my bosses Flex Forced Rotation Dual Action Orbital.

I always start with a good prep job, the more thorough your prep job the easier everything else tends to be. I use New Wave (ardex apc) and spray the engine, wheel wells, door/trunk jams, gas cap area, and any high traffic areas down. I then use a product called "Clean Wheels" by Autosmart, it is an alkali wheel cleaner not an acid. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes while the chemicals loosen up dirt grease and grime and then I pressure wash the entire car. If there are bugs I will soak the front end in new wave, mirrors and a pillars and take care of that. I will then hand wash the car and rinse. Next I always spray Hydro Gloss on the car (basic spray wax) and then begin to clar bar the vehicle, often changing the side of clay I use and even cleaning it out if necessary. Once that is completed I wash it again and dry it. At this point I look for any sap, tar, door dings (with paint transfer) or marks and wipe those areas with thinner or spot remover. I will then look over the car and decide whether or not if it needs a complete buff or spot buff, only because you don't want to buff if you do not have to. I always polish the vehicle , after that is done I wipe the vehicle down and apply the wax, while the wax cures I tire shine the tires and wheel wells using Ultra Dress RTU (Ardex Product, phenominal water based product that doesn't sling and makes the tires look drippign wet). I then touch up all jams and remove any compound from any cracks, after which I remove the wax, and then wipe the vehicle down again inside, and then take it outside to check my work, and touch it up more if needed.

Thats pretty much it in a nutshell.

lnhetzner

Recently got my car painted and I've noticed heavy swirl marks in some areas. When wet you can't see them but dry they pop out as if someone took a scotch bright to my paint. I believe they may have been too heavy with the buffing wheel at the paint shop. Any good pointers on how to polish these out?

RyBread761

iTrader: (2)

Always good to rewash the car after you cut (after the last step) and use a good all purpose cleaner to remove any of the oils that polishing the paint produces. 3 step cut, wash with soap and APC, dry, and then follow up with some Optimum wax...perfect result

cobaltsssc760

Damnnnnn!!!^^^^

BlackielawlessSS

iTrader: (1)

Its no base model cobalt automatic, but its ok.