Tennpenn83

[QUOTE=CbYellowSS;2192941]

Only the stock one.

CbYellowSS

[QUOTE=Tennpenn83;2192963]hmm so if you had a stock and a aftermarket one what one would u tap the air bleed line into???

Tennpenn83

Hmmm... Good question.

What I would probably do is make a split of the air bleed line and leave one line connected to the stock one and connect the other line to the aftermarket one. If it doesn't have an opening on the top, then I'd make one. Find a 1/4" threaded plug opening (bung, if you will), make a hole on the top of the aftermarket one, and carefully weld it to the top of the aftermarket one. Either that or just carefully monitor the level of air and try to fill it as best as possible.

I never thought of this question before, probably because I haven't planned on it yet.

RuSSo-29

So i'd be able to switch out my stock one for a bigger one, and then add the 2nd h/e for the opt b?

CbYellowSS

no you keep your stock one and add an extra heat exchanger there is no way u can fit 2 aftermarket h/e without some fabbing

RuSSo-29

Interesting. Well how much Fabbing? because wouldn't the added help of 2 aftermarket bigerr h/e's be a little better? Would I be able to see the diff?

Or is it even worth fabbinging up? I guess I'll just keep the stock h/e and try and get that time attack one...

CbYellowSS

stock and aftermarket wouldnt be worth the headache even for me telling you how you could do it lol

M-Dub

You don't need 2 bigger he's.... the stock one with the cobra or whatever H/E does its job just fine!

Methanol and H/E are all you really need!

CbYellowSS

ditto

qwikredline

real nice work. Dont forget to mention the .040 restrictor in the bleed line...

RuSSo-29

Well I have the Meth setup... AIS 1.5 gal trunk mount.

I have the dual pass + Opt B

And i'm going to be doing a 2nd h/e....


So the cooling is def dowm. I was just wondering, I know this stuff is "Good Enogh" but would it be worth tryin to go that extra step. From what Ive seen over the last 2 years and read, I suppose not. So i guess the +Cobra h/e will be all i'll really need. Thankx for your help m-dub = cbyellow and every 1 else.....

CbYellowSS

no problem

Tennpenn83

Ah, you got me...

In the air bleed line, closest to the fitting to the top of the heat exchanger, about an inch up inside the hose is placed a .040" orifice, used to extract the air and to keep the fluid in the heat exchanger.

Small but important detail.

rollingboostedss

I'm sorry but my answer maybe in here already, but I was just going to do option a with meth and just leave the stock H/e in, any info on that would be good but I think that would work just fine.

Tennpenn83

Here's some more pictures of the install.

Stock single pass endplate :



New dual-pass endplate :



Got the intake manifold off and getting started with switching the laminova tubes around :



One of the two laminova tubes that needed switched around, and the intake manifold gasket :



Dual-pass endplate installed on intake manifold :



Another shot of the dual-pass installed (notice the right side, on the top of the endplate, the circle opening with a green seal - this is the boost bypass which connects to the underside of the supercharger to bleed excessive boost - make sure to line that up perfectly with reinstalling the supercharger to avoid any intake leaks) :



A shot of the laminova tube (DO NOT DAMAGE THESE DURING INSTALL!!!), the secondary surge tank, dual-pass endplate... etc. Note that I removed the engine coolant hose (the one that is positioned to go right over the supercharger). Removing that coolant hose made a lot of things easier - i.e. removing supercharger, alternator, intake manifold (yes you have to remove the alternator to gain access to the elusive 8th bolt underneath the intake manifold)



Shot of the alternator, supercharger, and intake manifold all removed. Shows location of the mysterious 8th bolt :



Supercharger removed, and with new polished 2.9" pulley installed (you can see the port where I mentioned for the boost bypass to line up to) :



BE PREPARED to get sprayed in the face with some coolant from the stubborn hoses, and try to do this when it's not 30 degrees outside. Those hoses end up shrinking due to it being cold. The biggest problem was getting some hoses off from the heat exchanger and pump, because of the high heat of the coolant going through them, some of them actually melted themselves a bit to the clamps holding them. LOTS of pulling and persuading to get them off. What finally worked was taking a long lighter and heating them up slightly so they could expand just enough to pull them off. That and a utility knife to cut them off. (hey, I had new hoses anyway...)

Good luck trying to get all the air out of the Option A setup. It really is a bitch. You'll be doing that for days, weeks to come.

Raven SS

i just want to put out there because this is a good informational thread...but a dual pass end plate with option b DOES NOT COOL UR ENGINE....alot of people in this thread are refering to this as keeping ur engine cool or cooling down ur engine and people are freaking out when there engine coolant temps are 180 and never went down after the dual pass setup

Tennpenn83

Correct, it does not cool your engine. It cools the intake charge. It does not cool as fast or effectively as meth, but it is great at giving you consistant back-to-back-to-back-to-back WOT runs. Great for a day at the track, or a night on the street.

BeermanSSSC

iTrader: (1)

is this cooling the intake air before or after the supercharger?

Tennpenn83

After...

Getting cool air before the supercharger would basically be just a cold air intake...

BeermanSSSC

iTrader: (1)

thats what i thought, just wanted to be sure cause i read a post from someone saying how we didn't have good enough ways to cool the charge after the blower w/o meth.

Tennpenn83

Well.. best (and only) options without meth to look at are the dual-pass with Option A or B, and additional heat exchanger. Then again, you could always just set a bag of ice on top of the supercharger... lol

domin8_gt

iTrader: (1)

Yep, it's the same. Even same color car.

The instructions were a pain in the ars. The instructions I got said to connect the air bleed line with orofice to the intake manifold on the opposite side of where the endplate was installed. Would have made sense if there was something there to connect anything to, but there wasn't.

Pictures are decieving. That line you are seeing is actually electrical, not cooling. That was put there by GM when the car was being built. My air bleed line actually runs behind my headlight too.

BTW, I'm moving the coolant line that runs next to the fuel injectors on the 19th. With its current location it is a pain in the ars to do oil changes. I'm going to try to move it to behind the engine and reposition the surge tank to accomodate that so that the cooling doesn't have to squeeze next to the ETD.

Tennpenn83

Ah, I gotcha.

On the Redlines, there's about an inch more clearance between the radiator support frame and the supercharger pulley. My coolant line goes right in underneath that flange of the radiator support frame. With the help of some zip ties, it doesn't move.

Trying to think of why there'd be an electrical line there on your car, I don't remember there being one there on mine... brb gotta go check. It's going to bug me now.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Probably goes to the front crash sensor or to the outside air temp sensor, both are mounted on the front of the radiator support.

QUAD442

anyone here using the CX racing heat exchanger? I have the dual pass +B already. Anyone know how the additional heat exchanger does on a dyno? It should add HP seeing that the computer is reading cooler IAT2 so it adjusts the timing instead of having to retard it.

any thoughts on ease of install of a cobra he vs. a cx racing he and also capacity...