Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1

To do a successfull amp bypass it requires a few steps but non are particularly hard you must just go slow and double check yourself.

Equiptment needed (read the instructions before purchasing to minimialize excess... also most of this can be found at a local audio shop. Try there first because they will often sell staight up install stuff for cheaper then online BUT buy it from where u get the best price ) = 9 wire speed cablehttp://www.scosche.com/products/productID/980
remote wire http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/960
Rcas
wire cutters/crimpers
crimp caps www.installer.com/photos/cc1614s.jpg


First i would hook up the amp power and ground. Personally i would screw it to the back of the seats but you can mount it wherever (preferably not on a subwoofer box).

After you get it mounted i would go ahead and run the rcas from the HU to the amp. The techniclly better side to run them on is the passenger side so you dont interfire with the stock batt power wire but you can run them on the drivers side to minimize the panels you have to take out (although the chance of noise increases when you run them by the power wire especially with a mids amp) You need to run either 1 set of 4 chan rcas or 2 sets of 2 chan rcas. If you run 2 seperate sets make sure they are labled somehow before you put them in the car (electrical tape is a good way to not only lable a set but also keep the wires together for easier installation)

You must now run the speed cable from the aftermarket amp to the facotry amp. You can go ahead and hook up all the connections at the aftermarket amp if you want or leave them for later whatever you prefer... on the speed cable there are 9 wires 8 speaker wires and a remote. they are 100% identical other then color but make it easier on yourself or any other installer that works on your car and hook it up using the "standard" colors when hooking it up
Blue= remote
white= left front
grey= right front
green= left rear
purple= right rear

Also its easier to work with the speed cable if you cut off a fewn inches of the outer insualtion on each end of it. this will allow you to work with each individual wire

This is where it gets confusing so read carefully...
you are now going to remove a single connector from the factory amp. This is going to be the only connector you are going to need to splice and connect to the speed cable... When you do so you must terminate any stock connection and re route it to the speed cable... you cannot use t taps for this unless you plan on blowing any speaker hooked up. If you have the stock sub running off the stock setup you cant cut those wires from this connector and u must leave all the amp connections intact other then the ones you are cutting and crimping onto the speed cable. If you dont have the stock sub working then i recommend completely removing the amp to prevent any type of power randomly going odd places.... you can also at your disgression completely remove this harness.

below is the wire colors to the harness you will be splicing. Its the first one on the list
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/electronics-audio-video-49/cobalt-audio-pinouts-2823/

the last thing you need to do to make this work is extend the blue remote wire to the aftermarket HU.

Now see that wasnt so hard was it? Well worth the effort for better sound

Originally Posted by SS SCHGD

I had tried sucking signal after the Stock amp for a RF 360.1, and it wasn't worth it. I ended up removing the factory amp and getting my signal directly from the back of the Stock Radio. (the wire codes in the other sticky were spot on and much appreciated)

As I read through this sticky, What it looks like your doing it either Running a new amp and headunit with the stock Speakers, or trying to limit running new wire to the doors but using the stock wireing. (I wouldn't do either personally, but this will definately work, and if your not looking for high end, it will probably work well. (Speed cable rocks)

Anyone know exactly where the Power wire runs from Battery to Engine? I thought mine ran down the middle of the car, but maybe I wasn't looking very hard.

Originally Posted by Spun

The question is not if the stock amp can handle a sub, its wether or not a sub can handle an amp.
Now that sub has a 125rms @4 ohm (per voice coil) power rating, the stock amp runs at 2ohms x2. If your just going to strait swap subs I would look for something that runs dual 2ohm voice coils.