StevoElSupremo

Morning All

Monday afternoon on my drive into work I noticed that when I gav'r on the highway in 5th it felt like the car was "out of breath" at times and making no boost, then after work when I turned it on it gave me a CEL P0102 maf low voltage something something.

Seeing as I cleaned/oiled my K&N cone filter the week before (sparingly used oil) and my FB freinds said clean the MAF, so I got some sensor cleaner and did that as per youtube instruction and no dice the code has returned and my car is running fine 60% of the time and little to no boost/gimped 40% of the time.

It has no trouble starting and seems to idle fine and like I said it sometimes makes boost fine, other times.

Yes the filter/maf wires/MAF direction everything is put together properly, my battery is also new so it can't be that

Unplugging the MAF while the car is running doesn't seem to cause the car any trouble either

Thoughts?

----------------------EDIT-------------------

I've added 3 pics and a video below, the three pics are of the voltage readings, Ground to constant power reads 14ish both running and with key to ACC, this is fine

The final pic and video (engine running ofc) is of the signal wire and ground, should thi signal voltage not be increasing with revs?





And now the signal wire (Videos is under pic)

StevoElSupremo

So I swapped the stock intake system and spare MAF in, threw a code and sputtered a bit for like 5 mins after but minutes later it rand fine again, so I cleared the code and drove 45min with no issue....I'll keep you all posted, if anyone cares lol

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

you check the wiring to the MAF?

StevoElSupremo

Yes it all looks fine

Problem has reappeared this morning, 8/10 times I can't give it gas on the highway without the turd falling on its face...Other times it'll build full boost no problem and then cut out out and fall on its face.

What's stupid though is most of the time I can do a 2-3-4 pull full boost with no problem, then try it again and it'll shutter in third or 4th and not want to boost.

It's like it'll just decide to be an ******* and not give me power at random.

The amount of $$$ I've spent fixing all the b/S with this car I could have bought something else by now, please someone help before I drive this turd off a cliff ...worst part is it's all stock! :'(

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Given it seems to be an electrical issue, how old is the battery? When was the last time you had it checked? Condition of the grounds? (trying to find no cost things to check first)

StevoElSupremo

I replaced the battery less than a year ago and the leads look showroom new, and yes I appreciate all the help I can get here electrical problems are my nightmare and it's especially frustrating as I made it a point not to mess with this car

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Then I would check the grounds and look at the ECU connections. Disconnect the battery and then start looking at grounds and the ECU connection and any other connection between the ECU and the maf. I know it's some work, but it might lead you to the issue.

Get some dielectric grease, take the grounds loose, clean up any corrosion (assuming Toronto uses as much salt as Michigan does) add the dielectric grease to the connecting points and re-install the ground.

StevoElSupremo

Not to sound like a nub but where is this ground I'm looking for, I haven't done much mucking around on the T/C

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I'm going through other threads.

One guy fixed it by replacing the emissions fuse. It's a 10 am labeled EXH in the underhood box.

Another guy said it was wiring back to the ECU

One guy tested the wire at the MAF and it read bad, pulled back the wiring and tested good a few inches back on the wire. Had to replace with new pigtail.

Another post it was a cut wire going to the MAF.

StevoElSupremo

I remembered I had a THIRD MAF laying around, swapped it in, same problem....so I disconnected the MAF entirely and did a few runs to pick up a multimeter and it ran like a champ with it unplugged

what are the odds that I have THREE faulty MAF sensors? I got a multimeter finally so I'm gonna run some tests tomorrow... I would be blow away if all three were defective...

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

slim to none.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

But that indicates there is potentially a wiring issue.

StevoElSupremo

Just went out and did some multimeter tests,

Key to on (not engine running)

Hot lead to Pink.....Ground lead to black/white = 2ish volts
Hot Lead to Pink....Ground lead to ground stud = 2 - 3ish volts
Black lead to black/white Hot lead to power stud in engine bay = 7 ish volts

should have been 12V yes? sorry for the newb questions I've never really had an electrical issue :/ I followed this guide

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3....sensor-tests-1

*I checked that EXH fuse or whatever its called and it was fine
*Checked battery as well it's fine

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure what the voltage is supposed to be, hopefully someone else will chime in.

StevoElSupremo

Couple guys on the Audi forum had the same issue as me (codes and all) , turns out one of them had a hole in his IC and another had loose couplers on the IC after a hard pull they let go, mine happened after a hard pull, tomorrow I'm gonna pull the front bumper.

I've done a front bumper swap before and it only takes like half an hour, I'd rather just check that stuff before buying unnecessary parts.

Cars at least driving fine for now with it unplugged so I'm not sweating buckets anymore lol.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Maf-plugged-in

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Interesting, worth a boost leak test (if you don't have the adapter, then you need to make one having a boosted car a boost leak tester is needed)

StevoElSupremo

FFFF i dont have a compressor, I guess the car doesn't make boost at Idle so simply running it and putty soapy water on the connections wouldn't show me anything.

*sigh*

But then again if it was a crack/loose fitting so bad it's visible I probably wouldn't be able to build boost even with the MAF disconnected? the Boost gauge is still pushing normal KPa with the MAF unplugged.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I had a pretty decent boost leak on my hotside pipe connection and the little turbo was still pushing 22psi. Holding regular boost isn't a good indication, also given the code isn't the normal P0101 which indicates a serous boost leak, it's worth a quick check.

Sounds like it's time to makes friends with someone who has an air compressor or figure out if your work has one

StevoElSupremo

Just woke up to this bundle of bullshit, new bullshit to add some spice to life

P0458
P0037
P0100
P0102
P0031
P0030

I know I may come off as overreactive here but in the last two years I've probably sunk 4K worth of REPAIRS into a car thats proably only worth about 5K on a good day, I'm so ******* upset right now it's one thing after another after another with this bucket

StevoElSupremo

So that slew of codes was due to a blow "EXH" fuse, why that blew? who knows?? P0102 is still there thoguh

StevoElSupremo

So I swapped MAF's with a buddy whos car has a PERFECTLY GOOD MAF we know this as his car is obviously running fine, and guess what!

Did NOT fix the problem, I'm confident it's not the sensor itself...not sure if this makes me feel better or worse ... :/

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Do you know someone who has hptuners? If you can log the car then you have a better chance of seeing what is going on.

StevoElSupremo

Not anymore no, I might have to just take it to the dealer again before emissions is due this may

blu3_v1p3r

iTrader: (6)

So those codes! 3 for o2 sensors. 2 for the MAF, one for the cooling fan. My only experience with those for the MAF and o2 sensors was a simple swap and go. I have noticed a lot of people will over oil the k&n and get some of those issues. The only thing that all of those codes have in common is they could be pointng to ECU malfunctioning. Pull the connectors off the ECU and check for corrosion. Remember that having the connectors of the ECU will also rest the codes.

StevoElSupremo

I'm not worried about the code going away as the car will let me know it's throwing a tantrum quick enough lol

By pulling the ECU cables, do I disconnect the battery and pull those two plugs with the ratchet style plastic locks on the computer in the engine bay and see if they're dirty?