Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt

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Old 02-17-2017, 12:38 PM
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Exclamation Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt

Replaced Passenger side CV Axle rotates when its off the ground an when the car is in neutral an stops when you put pressure against rotation. Heres my problems 1. Driver Side wheel isn't getting power to it wont go forward. 2 transmission wont go into reverse feels like its blocked. Has a B&M shorty in it going to get it up on the hoist again an take a good look at it to see what its doing. Is there anything I should be looking for that would explain it an yes it does go into 1st an 2nd thanks for any advice


Email me at Million.678@hotmail.com so I can get replys faster since I'm going to be out working on the car an not on the computer

Last edited by WillisW; 02-17-2017 at 12:43 PM.
Old 02-21-2017, 12:15 PM
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Goes into reverse now an driver side wheel gets power now reason why it wouldn't go into reverse was because a linkage slipped so I replaced it an for the driver side wheel the cv was done so that's replaced as well thanks for the no help once again

Last edited by WillisW; 02-24-2017 at 12:07 PM.
Old 02-21-2017, 01:43 PM
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Just realize there's not much going on this site on weekdays let alone weekends, and on top of it you posted on President's Day weekend.

Glad you got your issue fixed though.
Old 02-21-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by exninja
Just realize there's not much going on this site on weekdays let alone weekends, and on top of it you posted on President's Day weekend.

Glad you got your issue fixed though.
It would be nice to get input on what it could be besides going in blind every time
Old 02-21-2017, 02:14 PM
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If you are looking for a very quick response you may want to try on the Facebook pages.


Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
Old 02-21-2017, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by royce777
If you are looking for a very quick response you may want to try on the Facebook pages.


Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
Much rather have people with knowledge help me out tired having people who don't know enough to help
Old 02-21-2017, 02:33 PM
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Abs Light is now on Wont go away only thing I touched was the front right wheel brake. Is there anyway it could be shorting itself out?
Old 02-21-2017, 05:09 PM
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Slowly but surely it will be back on the road in time for summer Thinking about ditching the rocker panels an lowering 2inchs getting black rims an getting it painted so the bumpers tie in a lot better an getting spyder tail lights an head lights
Old 02-21-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WillisW
Abs Light is now on Wont go away only thing I touched was the front right wheel brake. Is there anyway it could be shorting itself out?
Check and make sure the wheel speed sensor is plugged in as well as the wiring to the connector
Old 02-21-2017, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LsCobalt07
Check and make sure the wheel speed sensor is plugged in as well as the wiring to the connector
Is that the wire plugs on the side of the strut ?
Old 02-21-2017, 06:38 PM
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I believe so, It should lead to the connector from the hub assembly.
Old 02-21-2017, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LsCobalt07
I believe so, It should lead to the connector from the hub assembly.
any idea on what could cause the speed sensor to trip the abs?
Old 02-22-2017, 08:51 AM
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If I'm not mistaken (anyone correct me if I'm wrong) each wheel has its own wheel speed sensor, and if the computer detects that one wheel is moving at a different rate than the others it can trip ABS.
Old 02-22-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by SS_MuNky
If I'm not mistaken (anyone correct me if I'm wrong) each wheel has its own wheel speed sensor, and if the computer detects that one wheel is moving at a different rate than the others it can trip ABS.
Okay then so basically when every it slips an turns slightly faster then the other side it will trigger abs causing that annoying dinging sound from the sound system


ON a different note my tweeters aren't working in my car it came with the pioneer sound system in it what wires are they from the amplifier same with the sub woofer cause the meat head who owned the car before me cut the wires for the sub woofer an now I got to reconnet them but I lost my wiring diagram that told me everything it was for the 05 so shouldn't be much changed between the two one is 07 the other is 05

Last edited by WillisW; 02-22-2017 at 11:47 AM.
Old 02-22-2017, 03:26 PM
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I don't think going around a corner will trip it, no ones abs would work then. But if a sensor isn't working correctly its going to see a wheel that never moves, and that would be an issue.
Old 02-22-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_MuNky
I don't think going around a corner will trip it, no ones abs would work then. But if a sensor isn't working correctly its going to see a wheel that never moves, and that would be an issue.

So just replace the dead sensor then?
Old 02-22-2017, 03:41 PM
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That's where I would start.

But before you go replacing it (its part of the hub/bearing) I would go over the harness and make sure that everything is tight and intact.
Old 02-22-2017, 03:42 PM
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Really most people would get it scanned by someone with tech 2. Throwing parts at a car barely ever works.
Old 02-22-2017, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_MuNky
That's where I would start.

But before you go replacing it (its part of the hub/bearing) I would go over the harness and make sure that everything is tight and intact.
. Okay I will then
Old 02-22-2017, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cluelessk
Really most people would get it scanned by someone with tech 2. Throwing parts at a car barely ever works.
does something look off to you cause there's something noticeable to me
Old 02-22-2017, 05:31 PM
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that is idle on the supercharger dont think thats right
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by WillisW
does something look off to you cause there's something noticeable to me
You need a new endlink. It should not look like that
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:36 AM
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When your boost gauge works, is super glitchy or does it get stuck in spots?
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.

I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.


Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SS_MuNky
When your boost gauge works, is super glitchy or does it get stuck in spots?
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.

I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.


Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
Okay I'm going to be upgrading both of them then from moog then an also go with the same psi dial as well since its starting to bug me reading a negative pressure cause wouldn't that mean its creating a vacuum? just got them ordered through the local mechanic an the pressure gauge as well

Last edited by WillisW; 02-23-2017 at 12:37 PM.
Old 02-23-2017, 12:24 PM
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what about a good lowering kit for the balt as well which brand do you guys recommend for yours?


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